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Old Aug 01, 2010, 01:11 PM
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Germany
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Originally Posted by Twisted Realm View Post
Ok gave in a pick one up today (pnp) can I run a 2s 1800mah for this bird?
Depending on the C rating, you may puff the battery too...I wouldn't use anything less than 3S on it myself.
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 01:17 PM
Twisted Realm's Avatar
United States, FL
Joined Aug 2008
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Originally Posted by Mcdyvie View Post
Depending on the C rating, you may puff the battery too...I wouldn't use anything less than 3S on it myself.
Ok, here's what I have: 3s 1800mah 20c and 3s1000mah 25c. I wrote that wrong orignaly
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Last edited by Twisted Realm; Aug 01, 2010 at 01:42 PM.
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 02:01 PM
Not your average DiggsyBear
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Raleigh, NC
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisted Realm View Post
Ok, here's what I have: 3s 1800mah 20c and 3s1000mah 25c. I wrote that wrong orignaly
Both should work fine. On days with little to no wind, drop that 1000mah in there. I think you will find it floats a bit better. I fly mine with Rhino 3S 1050 25 and 30C packs and have been very happy with the performance on the stock setup. I also use the Rhino 1350's to add a touch more weight on windier days.

Diggs
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 02:15 PM
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USA, CA, Pismo Beach
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Beautiful country to fly in Mcdyvie. And nice video. I'd say you really like that extra power!!!
GW
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 02:19 PM
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Germany
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Thanks Greywing! I love the flying field and the plane indeed!
Cheers,
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 03:57 PM
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United States, FL
Joined Aug 2008
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Ok ready for take off and its pouring out. 3s1000mah25-35c lipo is flush with the opening to the back hatch for 2 1/2" cg from leading edge.

Just about ready to stay f the rain and huck her anyway.
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 04:04 PM
Which way is up?
Ft Myers, Fl
Joined Feb 2003
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Well, the second time out with the radian just reinforced my first impression yesterday. I like how this flys in light wind. Started out with barely a breeze and ended up mid day at 5-8. Mostly sunny with some small puffies around.

Did get some cloudiness for a few minutes so gave my crazy 88 a turn (epp bipe).

Yep, all in all a good day flying.

Jim

ps today, I checked voltage after 4, 6, 8 climbs. With the 8th, voltage at 11.2 so pulled the pack.
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 05:20 PM
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Norwood, CO
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Originally Posted by Raften View Post
Thanks for the link Jack, they have a good selection and should be something there that works. My Radian motor does have a flat on the shaft and that is part of my problem. The set screw threw up a burr and now the mount will not slide off. Once I decide on something that will work I'll cut off the mount. For the time being I just got a new set screw and set it real tight and locked it in.
I'm working on a problem where I'm attempting to reverse the shaft on the stock 480B so it's like the 480 in a T-28. 'nother story..

BUT, I was able to get the tight, seemingly immovable, adapter/mount off: pliers under as a base, carefully tap on the shaft end (so as not to make a 'burr'), padding under motor...sure enough, the mount moved and eventually came off with no damage. The tip of the pliers jaws can be rested on a firm surface. Many variations to this technique.

jo
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 05:32 PM
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Norwood, CO
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Originally Posted by Mcdyvie View Post
This is a known problem with Parkzone motors. The problem is the cheap plastic casing. You need a new motor, but I don't recommend the PZ stock motor for it. EDIT- Look a little bit like this?
So here's the other story...dis assembling the stock 480B to convert to a rear mount instead of front mount motor, i.e., changing it into a 480 like you find in a T-28.

All apart EXCEPT the apparently red locktited pair of grub nuts holding in the shaft at what we Radian dudes call the back of the motor (which will become the front when I reverse it all).

At this point, after first using a 1.5 mm allen (which I think was right, as that worked on the propeller mount grub), then after being slow and careful at first, stripping the flats out of the grub's recess, then using ever larger phillips, flat, and star mini drivers, presto! no progress.

Good news is I can just reassemble and have a spare Radian motor, as there are no cracks in the end of the magnet case (rear). Bad news is I want to reverse this motor, perversely, and put it in a Super Cub.

Now, this isn't quite off thread, as many may want to take their motors apart (why, I don't know).

Jackerbe has all the knowledge, but hasn't worked on these motors - never the less, he may have an idea about removing the stripped grubs. On bigger stuff, you might try 'easy outs', but this is tiny. Maybe buy a plethora of 1/16" bits and have at it? Then go to a larger tap and grub??

Any ideas out there?

thanks!

jo
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 05:58 PM
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United States, FL
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Ok back yard madian humm,,, gonna need more space so I'm off to the field.
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 06:17 PM
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GARNER NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcdyvie View Post
This is a known problem with Parkzone motors. The problem is the cheap plastic casing. You need a new motor, but I don't recommend the PZ stock motor for it. EDIT- Look a little bit like this?
No! Mine has a small crack comeing from one of the three pins that you see on the back of yours. Also mine looks like a stress crack from when those pins where pushed in. The motor works fine I had it out today for a 30min flight.

Kevin
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 06:41 PM
Aut Viam Inveniam Aut Faciam
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United States, CO, Colorado Springs
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Originally Posted by kunclebuc View Post
No! Mine has a small crack comeing from one of the three pins that you see on the back of yours. Also mine looks like a stress crack from when those pins where pushed in. The motor works fine I had it out today for a 30min flight.

Kevin
thats how it starts. small cracks start to appear and then they spread quickly.
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 07:38 PM
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United States, FL
Joined Aug 2008
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Ok field madian = great dollar value IMO (PnP) glider. Got my first real madian tonight it was cold and damp with very little wind. I only had two batterys 1000mah 3s 25c which got me 15min and batterys coming down at 3.80v's. Can't wait to do some morning flights, also ordered some hobbypartz 1300mah 15c's hopefully they will be close to the recommand packs. Thanks guys.
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 07:39 PM
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United States, CO, Colorado Springs
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only 15min?!? is that per battery or both?
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Old Aug 01, 2010, 07:40 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaksno View Post
<snip>..Jackerbe has all the knowledge, but hasn't worked on these motors - never the less, he may have an idea about removing the stripped grubs. On bigger stuff, you might try 'easy outs', but this is tiny. Maybe buy a plethora of 1/16" bits and have at it? Then go to a larger tap and grub??

Any ideas out there?

thanks!

jo

LOL And thanks for the kind words.

In 68 years of messing with stuff there is almost nothing I have not stripped at one time or another and had to get out the hard way.

If I see red Loctite or suspect it might be there, I use a butane micro torch and apply heat to the grub screw. Do that in dim light and get the visible part of the flame about 1/8-1/4" (3-6mm) from the screw. The most heat is there where the flame becomes not very visible.

It will put a little heat into the surrounding metal too but 5 seconds or so of heat should not hurt any thing else and it should be enough to get the Loctite up to it's 500-800F release point (the Loctite becomes soft at that point too).

I have also got away with heating the tip of an allen wrench until it is red hot and then jamming it into the grub screw (and a 1.5mm wrench is the right size for a 3mm grub screw). Let it set for a few seconds to allow the heat to penetrate a little and give the screw a try. This will often make the wrench soft and no longer very usable but that is a small sacrifice to get a screw out and I have a lot of extra 1.5mm wrenches.

The final and most desperate removal technique is to use a Dremel tool with a #409 abrasive cutting disc mounted on a #402 arbor and cut a slot across the top of the grub screw. It also means that you will be cutting a slot in surrounding metal on each side of the grub screw but that's a small sacrifice for getting a screw out.

Spin the abrasive disc at full speed, you want to see sparks coming off of the grub screw as you cut the 0.025" wide slot. The heat generated in cutting the slot also goes to releasing any Loctite that may be there.

With the slot cut, put a close fitting (as far as width and thickness) regular screw driver into the slot and remove the screw.

Cutting shafts to length, cutting snap ring grooves, and cutting flats for grub screws is an inherent part of the RC process if you are repairing motors, reversing shafts, and the like. This thread covers the basics:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1240725

Jack
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