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Old Jan 18, 2010, 09:45 AM
In the 20' glider range
anti-gravity's Avatar
Boise, Idaho
Joined Jul 2009
4,503 Posts
1... I know of no defect in the fuse. They just tend to be really flimsy. I am in the prossess of stiffening my fuse just for my own preference.

2.... Not good. When they get wet it is like any other eletrical thing. but it seems as if you didn't ruin them by the snow, othwise they would be not working.

3... Its a glider, it is meant to be light. The lighter it is the more thermal it will respond to. Wood will be heavy. Use CF of some sort. People put steeel(ballest) rod in the spars for windy conditions.




What are your guys (stock battery) CG?
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 10:19 AM
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Yablonsky's Avatar
Aliso Viejo, CA
Joined Sep 2009
542 Posts
I have a source for CF and Fiberglass rods here:
http://www.intothewind.com/shop/Repair_and_Kitemaking

Their pricing is very good....
http://www.intothewind.com/shop/Repa...bing_for_kites

Hope this helps
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 10:32 AM
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JOHNNYDXYZ's Avatar
SE Minnesota
Joined May 2009
250 Posts
I used those two holes in the wing...where the wing spar ends are...that I think is where it should balance, when you put your fingertips and hold the model up for balancing. Seemed to me I had to slide the stock battery forward in order to get a balance there. But others on this forum say to slide it back as far as it will go and go with that.

If you DO slide it forward at all, do you put something like a block of foam in there so you get the battery placement correct or at least the same, everytime you remove for charging and then replace?
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 10:41 AM
In the 20' glider range
anti-gravity's Avatar
Boise, Idaho
Joined Jul 2009
4,503 Posts
I tried thata. I would have to put the battery on top of the ESC and butted up against the motor to acheive that spot.

Could I be tail heavy due to paint on tail?

Last time I flew a had about 5 degrees of down to compensate for level flight
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 10:41 AM
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jaksno's Avatar
Norwood, CO
Joined Jul 2009
624 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernFly View Post
well I guess you never think it going to happen to you.
Haven't flown in a month due to weather and illness, so to when the temp got up and the rain died down thought I give it a go.
After Binding the Radian over to a new transmitter and making some repairs to the fuz I wanted to get at lest one flight in before dark.
I should have waited as the winds was high, but I thought that might lend itself to some fun flying. The Radian climbed up at a great rate but could make no head way. With full down on the sticks it would hold level any up resulted in a loops and lost ground. Very soon it was across the field and over the woods.
The last I saw of her she was looping pass the tree line.
A fellow flier and myself look thru the wood for about a hour thinking we might see the LEDs on the wing tip but spotted nothing. I'll look some more tomorrow down the power line but there is no knowing how far she went.
If I get lucky someone my find it and return it.
I guess thats the price you pay for being impatient and careless.
I guess it's time to order a new Radian from the LHS.

Condolences. Been there, but fortunate that I crashed 1/2 to 3/4 miles away 50 yds south of the trees. Late, high wind ("Heck, I can do it!), got away, got too low, tried to power up and back, but so far away I was way behind the controls; she piled in and became a kit - I rushed a mile down to the highway, back up the next road, back to the West, and lo and behold spotted her 50 feet from the barbed wire in the field. I sincerely hope you find her. I spent a total of 6 hours looking for a minicub I flew in too strong wind that got away into the BLM behind the house - may still find it some day.
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 11:39 AM
Aut Viam Inveniam Aut Faciam
verticalspark's Avatar
United States, CO, Colorado Springs
Joined Oct 2008
4,076 Posts
1 - I don't know of any defect with the fuselage. I was and still am kinda worried about the joiner in the fuselage breaking but haven't had any trouble out of it.

2 - As with any R/C product the electronics are not happy with water. If you do get it wet just pull the battery out and wait for it to dry. I have flown my radian in the clouds, in light rain, in snow and landed in a very large puddle and as long as you unplug the battery as soon as you can and let it dry out you shouldn't have any problems. The water will make the plane non-responsive if you get it in the receiver but it wont actually "fry" the electronics unless it shorts the battery.

3 - less weight = better glide ratio. The only reason I add weight to my radian is if its really windy outside. The only downfall to the radian that I know of is that stock weight wont cut through the wind. With the addition of the steel rod in the spar the radian will cut through the wind much easier but I wouldn't use it in normal every day flight.
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 12:50 PM
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Teezer's Avatar
Pagosa Springs, CO
Joined Jul 2007
240 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNNYDXYZ View Post
However, a 'couple of subsequent rough landings broke the fuselage right at the verticle join line, and re-cracked the firewall. So, several questions:

1...Is there a manufacturing defect in some of the Radian fuselages? That vertical join line didn't seem right to me even before it broke there, and the whole fuse is so flexible that even a moderately rough landing will whip the thing so much that how could it NOT break? It also seems to make the thing awfully twitchy on the rudder, as it must flex alot in flight. Maybe I just got a bad fuselage. Those of you who have several fuselages...are some stiffer than others?
I ran a strip of 3/4" packing tape (the kind with the fiberglass thread reinforcement) down each side of my fuse, covering the embedded pushrod tubes. This stiffened it a bit. Then I had a full-power-on crash that ripped the nose off and tore the wings out through the top of the fuse, but there was no damage at all behind the wing.

So, I did the hot water reforming thing on all the crushed foam, glued it back together with gorilla glue, and flew it again. No problems with the repair, but my fumbling fingers performed another full-power-on crash that ripped the nose off and tore the wings out through the top of the fuse, but there was no damage at all behind the wing.

After that one, I junked the old fuse and bought another one. I did the same packing tape reinforcement on the new fuse, and everything was cool.

Then, I changed transmitters. I bought a DX6i so I could fly the Radian and a DLG from one transmitter (anyone need a DX5e?). When I set up the Radian programming on the DX6i, I got interrupted in the middle of the process and had to come back to it later. As a result, I had the Radian configured with the rudder servo reversed (you know where this is going, don't you?). Another full-power-on crash that ripped the nose off and tore the wings out through the top of the fuse, but there was no damage at all behind the wing.

So, I'd say that the fuse you got was an exceptionally weak one, or that the packing tape along the sides is an essential mod...
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 01:06 PM
More Altitude, Less Attitude!
chickenwing's Avatar
United States, SC, Ninety Six
Joined Mar 2008
547 Posts
I got my PNP Radian over the weekend and thought I would share the joy. Mods include custom bottom-side paint job, wing magnets, and AR6200 receiver installed. I will replace the stock pushrod connectors tonight...
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 02:42 PM
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JOHNNYDXYZ's Avatar
SE Minnesota
Joined May 2009
250 Posts
"but there was no damage at all behind the wing."

I had a similar experience with my two Firebird Commanders...the first one had CHRONIC problems from the very first flight onward with the tail boom separating, and the second one, which had a very similar crash history, NEVER broke the tail boom. Which is why I suspect I got a lemon Radian fuse...oh well, I'll just use the stiffening advice and, of course, try for consistent gentler landings.
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 02:47 PM
In the 20' glider range
anti-gravity's Avatar
Boise, Idaho
Joined Jul 2009
4,503 Posts
cool
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Last edited by anti-gravity; Jan 18, 2010 at 03:19 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 02:48 PM
Registered User
Joined Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chickenwing View Post
I got my PNP Radian over the weekend and thought I would share the joy. Mods include custom bottom-side paint job, wing magnets, and AR6200 receiver installed. I will replace the stock pushrod connectors tonight...
I'm liking your paint job. Nice.
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 03:16 PM
More Altitude, Less Attitude!
chickenwing's Avatar
United States, SC, Ninety Six
Joined Mar 2008
547 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiro View Post
I'm liking your paint job. Nice.
Thanks. I created a template in AutoCAD and traced it out on the wings. For anyone interested, I will attach the template files below.
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 03:19 PM
In the 20' glider range
anti-gravity's Avatar
Boise, Idaho
Joined Jul 2009
4,503 Posts
If I were going to add flaps, I would totall of 4 servos (2 stock and 2 HXT900's)
http://www.hobbypartz.com/ub2liin.html
Should I use this ubec?
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 05:54 PM
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United States, AK, Anchorage
Joined Feb 2009
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Anti I havent had a problem using the stock esc's bec even with the four serovs in my radian...
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 10:05 PM
Not your average DiggsyBear
Diggs's Avatar
Raleigh, NC
Joined Dec 2006
8,859 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by anti-gravity View Post
If I were going to add flaps, I would totall of 4 servos (2 stock and 2 HXT900's)
http://www.hobbypartz.com/ub2liin.html
Should I use this ubec?
A cheaper solution is a flight pack battery of proper size to power the RX directly. No BEC needed and it is very cheap insurance. If you are flying 2.4 and adding another pair of servos, it's probably a $10 max investment if you shop around. If you aren't on a 2.4 system, then it might not matter as much.

Diggs
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