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Old Nov 09, 2011, 06:45 PM
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lennyboy's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Daedalus66 View Post
If that's what you're building there's no wonder you think it's small!. The 22" span version is only is 75%, AKA Polaris Mini. I have one and it flies well at about 10oz, but it's not my preference for regular flying. I like the 100% (29") for fast flying and the XL (133%) for relaxed flying. The Mini is great to have in the car. Here's how it flies:
http://vimeo.com/25733696
Hey Daealus66 ,,
Thev plans were what I was looking for..
I have them all cut out and ready to cut foam maybe tomorrow..
I like the way your Polaris flew man is there any paint left on it..
That thing screams..
I have a seadart that flew for me this summer about the same way ,,,Man what a warm fuzzy rush ..
Can't wait to get my polaris together..
Well we have all winter,,
So thanks,,
Lenny
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 11:46 PM
ekatsu
Tokyo
Joined Nov 2008
8 Posts
[QUOTE=lennyboy;19830016]
I just printed the pages and it looks pretty ..
I hope this come out to 35" wing span and I'll be happy..

Wing span will be 36" or so.
Have you already finished printing and putting the tiles together in one piece?
I haven't yet, though I downloaded that PDF 7 months ago.
A week has 7 todays for the diligent and 7 tomorrows for me?
Hope you enjoy building and flying 125% Polaris.
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Old Nov 10, 2011, 07:36 AM
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[QUOTE=ekatsu;19834878]
Quote:
Originally Posted by lennyboy View Post
I just printed the pages and it looks pretty ..
I hope this come out to 35" wing span and I'll be happy..

Wing span will be 36" or so.
Have you already finished printing and putting the tiles together in one piece?
I haven't yet, though I downloaded that PDF 7 months ago.
A week has 7 todays for the diligent and 7 tomorrows for me?
Hope you enjoy building and flying 125% Polaris.
Yes all it printed cut and trimed to make the foam parts ,,then assm. then wire it up then up and away I hope???lol
Here is a link to what I have built so far..
Lenny

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=285343
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Old Nov 10, 2011, 08:02 AM
Row 0, Seat A
G550Ted's Avatar
Savannah, GA
Joined Jan 2008
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[QUOTE=lennyboy;19836488]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ekatsu View Post

Yes all it printed cut and trimed to make the foam parts ,,then assm. then wire it up then up and away I hope???lol
Here is a link to what I have built so far..
Lenny

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=285343
That's a lot of very nice work Lenny! Lookin' forward to seeing your Polaris.

Ted
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Old Nov 10, 2011, 08:09 AM
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[QUOTE=G550Ted;19836661]
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Originally Posted by lennyboy View Post

That's a lot of very nice work Lenny! Lookin' forward to seeing your Polaris.

Ted
Thank you Ted been at it since 2009 so Iam still green but this web site is full of great people who are more then willing to help..
That's what keeps me going up here in Illinois in the winter..
Thaks again,
Lenny
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 09:46 AM
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AirmanAirhead's Avatar
Novato, CA
Joined Dec 2008
693 Posts
Sliding Hatch Cover

I realize this is a Polaris build thread, and through I'm showing a "Drongo" water plane, I thought I would show my idea for a sliding hatch cover which could be used on a Polaris.

Almost done, about ready to do the final test and button up the fuselage. When I built my first Polaris, I got frustrated taping the hatch cover on and off.

The sliding hatch is not water tight. But of course if the Drongo flips over you will get leakage in through the rear wire passage unless that is all sealed up. I find in a flip over state usually there are other problems any way.

However I think for normal flying conditions this should work pretty well. Though as of yet, it has not been tested.

The small bass wood piece I used for the slides are from a LHS which sells miniature moldings for doll house builders. I used plastic styrene for the cover itself. We shall see if my theory works.
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 01:21 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirmanAirhead View Post
I realize this is a Polaris build thread, and through I'm showing a "Drongo" water plane, I thought I would show my idea for a sliding hatch cover which could be used on a Polaris.

Almost done, about ready to do the final test and button up the fuselage. When I built my first Polaris, I got frustrated taping the hatch cover on and off.

The sliding hatch is not water tight. But of course if the Drongo flips over you will get leakage in through the rear wire passage unless that is all sealed up. I find in a flip over state usually there are other problems any way.

However I think for normal flying conditions this should work pretty well. Though as of yet, it has not been tested.

The small bass wood piece I used for the slides are from a LHS which sells miniature moldings for doll house builders. I used plastic styrene for the cover itself. We shall see if my theory works.
I've seen plastic shapes similar to your slides in the local hobby shop, too. I think they are used in other model building, e.g. model railroads, etc. Depending on the size of the door opening and door, it might be possible to recess the slide down into the foam to make the whole thing a little more aerodynamic. And it eliminates door hinging, magnets, tape, etc. which can fail and let betteries eject themselves!

Thanks for the idea!
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 06:15 PM
unconventional :-)
kadil's Avatar
Brisbane north, Australia
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I've seen plastic shapes similar to your slides in the local hobby shop, too. I think they are used in other model building, e.g. model railroads, etc. Depending on the size of the door opening and door, it might be possible to recess the slide down into the foam to make the whole thing a little more aerodynamic. And it eliminates door hinging, magnets, tape, etc. which can fail and let betteries eject themselves!

Thanks for the idea!
I quite like how the hatches turned out on my latest build. Main points are:

- Z hinge the hatch with double sided tape
- rare earth small magnetic latch
- Cover hinge with wide tape to neaten up Z hinge
- Lined the inside of the fuse foam near the battery with packing tape to make it more durable

What I like about this is the big hatches, that are easy to get into.

My hatches definitely do not hold a battery in, but supply an aerodynamic cover that is very convenient to access.

Quick video to show what it is like.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1Pm2REvMrc
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 07:02 PM
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alpea 41's Avatar
United States, CA, Chino
Joined Oct 2007
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Very nice hatches kadil, unusuall K.F. steps also. You like the KF airfoils ?
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 07:11 PM
59 years of RC flying
Daedalus66's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Feb 2006
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Originally Posted by kadil View Post
What I like about this is the big hatches, that are easy to get into.

My hatches definitely do not hold a battery in, but supply an aerodynamic cover that is very convenient to access.
I'm with you there. I never understand why people want to make a small hatch (or even no hatch at all over the radio). My battery hatches are about the same size as yours. I leave the top off the fuselage till everything else is installed, then balancing on the step, I determine the position of the front of the lightest battery I will use and the back of the heaviest. That sets the length of the battery compartment (and also the position of the ESC, etc.).

The hatch is not in the business of holding the battery in place. That's done by industrial strength Velcro. The hook side is stuck to the battery floor (I smear epoxy in a thin coat to give good adhesion and let it set before installing the Velcro).

The hatch has a thin ply tongue at the front and small magnets at the rear corners (I'm in the process of converting from duct tape hinges and closure!).

My radio hatch is much smaller than yours, but it's big enough to allow access to the receiver and also to the bullet connectors on the ESC motor connections. It doesn't need to be opened often, so it's taped all round.

The intake scoop and exit vent are made from half plastic spoons (though I'm planning to shift over to heat sinks for next season). With winter coming on, I will tape over the air intake, as the problem is not cooling but keeping the battery warm (it lives in an inside pocket while waiting to be used). First snow forecast tonight but probably not enough for good Polaris flying for a while yet.

I've got a newly upgraded radio to go in the test Polaris soon. It's a Turnigy 9X converted to FrSky and flashed with the ER9X firmware. I just got the transmitter going with the new firmware and it's wonderfully flexible to program.
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 07:20 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kadil View Post
I quite like how the hatches turned out on my latest build. Main points are:

- Z hinge the hatch with double sided tape
- rare earth small magnetic latch
- Cover hinge with wide tape to neaten up Z hinge
- Lined the inside of the fuse foam near the battery with packing tape to make it more durable

What I like about this is the big hatches, that are easy to get into.

My hatches definitely do not hold a battery in, but supply an aerodynamic cover that is very convenient to access.

Quick video to show what it is like.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1Pm2REvMrc
Nice! Z-hinges are perfect for that kind of application, too. I do most of my hatches similarly, but usually not full body width. In those case, I simply adhere a thin strip of foam under the main fuse foam, sticking out several mm to act as a stop so the hatch fits flush and has something to bear against.

I don't rely on hatches to hold in batteries, but on rare occasions, I've had the normal Velcro securement pull off in a high-G maneuver, and eject a battery. A sliding hatch would be an insurance policy against that happening. I don't rely on Velcro strips flat glued to a surface to hold any more. Now I cut a slot in the foam at each end, and epoxy the velcro strip into the slot on each end. It won't come loose!
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 07:20 PM
unconventional :-)
kadil's Avatar
Brisbane north, Australia
Joined Feb 2009
2,114 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpea 41 View Post
Very nice hatches kadil, unusuall K.F. steps also. You like the KF airfoils ?
Thanks alpea. I do like this new model. Maybe it is the kf type disturbance on top of wing affecting lift, maybe it is the stiffened wing due to the kf type panels?

There is absolutely no science in the shape of the kf type panels, more for "art"
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 07:21 PM
unconventional :-)
kadil's Avatar
Brisbane north, Australia
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Nice! Z-hinges are perfect for that kind of application, too. I do most of my hatches similarly, but usually not full body width. In those case, I simply adhere a thin strip of foam under the main fuse foam, sticking out several mm to act as a stop so the hatch fits flush and has something to bear against.
Yes, on the hatches i only used a few z hinge strips to make sure the main tape did not peel off
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 07:26 PM
check for reversed controls
alpea 41's Avatar
United States, CA, Chino
Joined Oct 2007
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I bought a bundle of Dow FFF today and although all my 5 ( 3 -100%, 2- 75%) previous Polarises have been built with 3mm and 6mm depron a new 100 % with fff is on my Xmas wish list. lol
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Old Nov 11, 2011, 08:49 PM
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wheelspinner20's Avatar
S.E.Michigan
Joined Jul 2010
2,240 Posts
Kadil, dang that is a nice set up for the hatches. REally nicely done. My led lit pol was a big hit at the field where a bunch had not seen it at night before, because we just lost daylight savings time.

Kadil, is there something specific you think as far as flight characteristics? or is it just that its new, stiff, and undamaged? I really like the contrast black and white.

Alpea, the fff you bought, does it have film on both sides? and how is the wavyness??

Pat
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