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Old Jul 14, 2010, 06:51 PM
Did ya'll see that?!?
Tony A.'s Avatar
Elizabethtown, NC
Joined Mar 2009
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I'll build ya one for $325 and give you a bumper to bumper full replacement warranty for 3/36.

Thats until it gets 3 feet from me or 36 seconds after it leaves my hands...
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Last edited by Tony A.; Jul 14, 2010 at 06:59 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 07:09 PM
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Northwest Ohio
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Originally Posted by Tony A. View Post
I'll build ya one for $325 and give you a bumper to bumper full replacement warranty for 3/36.

Thats until it gets 3 feet from me or 36 seconds after it leaves my hands...
LOL that's very similar to the Model Aero warranty!!!
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by AeroRecon View Post
I did the same with most seams from the inside, and sometimes on the outside, with clear silicone sealant. Seemed to work ok but probably waaay too heavy. Sure looked sealed up tight.

Scott...you wouldn't have a partial kit laying around would you? I think I can salvage the whole tail structure and just mount on a new fuse and wing.

If you do or don't, do you think that will work??
Thanks
PM me with what you need. I have alot of spare parts laying around.

Scott
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 09:26 PM
Did ya'll see that?!?
Tony A.'s Avatar
Elizabethtown, NC
Joined Mar 2009
368 Posts
I'll go ya one better...

I will even personally deliver your Polaris any where in the country (within a 1/4 mile radius of my house) FOR FREE!!!


Its the fine print that'll get ya every time.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 10:07 PM
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Orange County, CA
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Originally Posted by mavlo77 View Post
But what about my Spektrum Rx? Maybe after it was soaked, it gives erratic signals.

Also my aileron trim changes during the flight. Quite a lot: maybe 5 mm deflection over 5 minutes!!
Aileron trim changes point MUCH more to receiver than ESC.
Freezing, no control, could be either. But with the trim changes. I'd try the RX first.
Dave
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Old Jul 15, 2010, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by SumthinsFishy View Post
Aileron trim changes point MUCH more to receiver than ESC.
Freezing, no control, could be either. But with the trim changes. I'd try the RX first.
Dave
Point is that on the workbench the trim doesn't change, even not after one hour and moving aileron frequently. So it looks like ESC temperature related...

But in my aircraft I use a separate UBEC for powering receiver and servo's (yes red wire of the ESC is cut ). So there shouldn't be any relation between the ESC and servo's.

The only thing I can think of is that as ESC warms up, it loads the PWM output of the receiver in bad way.
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Old Jul 15, 2010, 06:05 AM
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[QUOTE=mavlo77;15542839]Hi, another technical incident. Just after take off, throttle stayed at 50%... Didn't respond to the Tx. After some more fiddling with the throttle stick, the motor stopped........

I suspect that you may have the problem with the range and not ESC. I would take the model outside and have someone holding the model. Switch the transmitter to Range Check. Run the motor at full power while walking away. If it start acting up at shorter distance then recommended by manufacturer for you radio, then it is Tx. Personally, I never had reason to do this test.
Laddie.
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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mavlo77 View Post
Hi, another technical incident. Just after take off, throttle stayed at 50%... Didn't respond to the Tx. After some more fiddling with the throttle stick, the motor stopped........

But I was still way to low to do anything, so I again went into a spin, and went down in a spiral again in 2 meters long grass.........
Which Spektrum receiver are you using? I suffered somewhat similar problems using an AR500 and there have been quite a few reports of loss of control with that particular receiver. I've had excellent results in the Polaris with AR6100 and AR6110.

By the way, the AR6100 got dunked at one point. I removed the cover, shook out the water and let it sit in the sun for several hours. It's still working fine in another model. Currently, I'm flying the Polaris with FrSky equipment and have also used a Fly Dream module and receiver with 100% results.

Now about your aileron trim drift. I have a hard time imagining how the ESC/BEC could affect the aileron servo positioning. And even the receiver normally doesn't cause trim drift. It seems to me that issues of servo centering generally come down to either issues at the transmitter end or problems in the servo itself.
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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:52 AM
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Durham NC
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Something to double check on your aileron trim drift: Make sure you are getting maximum throw from the servo. That is, set the radio to 140% (or max depending on your radio) and adjust the physical linkage and horn position in or out to work with this setting. This will give you max torque and resolution your servo is capable of which will help with centering. (A tip I learned from Andrew Jesky).
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Old Jul 15, 2010, 12:11 PM
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Mavlo77. Just to clarify, I understand the aileron trim drift to be steady very slow movement in one direction over 5 minutes or so. It's not a result of low resolution or mechanical slop (which could go either way). It only affects aileron. Sure is odd.
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Old Jul 15, 2010, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Daedalus66 View Post
Mavlo77. Just to clarify, I understand the aileron trim drift to be steady very slow movement in one direction over 5 minutes or so. It's not a result of low resolution or mechanical slop (which could go either way). It only affects aileron. Sure is odd.
You're completely right. It's a slow drift in one direction. Only ailerons yes. The same amount in the elevator would be very noticeable. So during the first battery I need do trim several times a click or more. I know it shouldn't be the case, as my first Polaris flew straight (litterally) from my workbench and I never ever trimmed the ailerons .

I am using the AR6110.

I understand the thought of Laddie, but I don't think the range is a problem. It passes the range check without problems. But also the problem was right after take off, very close. And I flew very high in the sky, and made a very wide turn before landing: no problem.

But if it is the servo, as Daedalus66 suggests, then why don't I see the drift when it's on the work bench, after moving the aileron stick for minutes? The only difference between a test on the bench and real flight is the motor and the heat of the ESC..... But the ESC shouldn't affect anything as it is completely separate from the rest of the circuit (except for the PWM control signal input). Also interesting is that on a battery refresh the aileron offset remains... The next day it is gone, and the cyclus starts over...

I am really puzzled.

Tonight I am going to double check the following on the workbench:
- Again moving ailerons for minutes to see if there is drift
- If not: powering up the motor and do the same

Next day:
- Replace receiver with another one
- Repeat the same test....

And:
- See if I can reproduce the throttle issue (sticking at a certain position without response) with both receivers.

I think with that info, we should be able to diagnose the problem...

Thanks for the help so far. I keep you updated.
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Old Jul 15, 2010, 02:25 PM
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In the meanwhile I did a test on the workbench. Initially the throttle was non-responsive again. So as this is the most dangerous issue, I decided to focus on the throttle first ...

I removed battery, and reconnected... But again throttle sticked at a fixed position while I moved the stick down...... Then I recalibrated the throttle on the ESC. No improvement!

Then I removed my receiver and replaced it with an older AR6100 ... Guess what........ THROTTLE responds normally!!! So now I am sure something is wrong with the Rx!

I will do some more testing to see if the throttle issue is really solved.

Now I'm quite confident the aileron trim issue is also Rx related.... Quite disappointing, but it could be my own fault as it was soaked some weeks ago. Can't remember about the ailerons before that, but we'll see with the new Rx...
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Old Jul 15, 2010, 11:08 PM
unconventional :-)
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Brisbane north, Australia
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Originally Posted by fmidgett View Post
Something to double check on your aileron trim drift: Make sure you are getting maximum throw from the servo. That is, set the radio to 140% (or max depending on your radio) and adjust the physical linkage and horn position in or out to work with this setting. This will give you max torque and resolution your servo is capable of which will help with centering. (A tip I learned from Andrew Jesky).
If you do not have these controls on your transmitter (like my dx5) is there any way to actually make sure you get maximum servo throws? I am sure I can manually move some of my servo's across a greater range than it actually uses with my setup.

(some servo's can be pushed, other(read cheaper servos) just feel like they are going to break if pushed)
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Old Jul 16, 2010, 12:35 AM
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If you can't adjust your radio, just make sure that your throws are ok by using the right servo arm length etc... Then you'll be fine.
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Old Jul 16, 2010, 05:17 AM
unconventional :-)
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Originally Posted by mavlo77 View Post
If you can't adjust your radio, just make sure that your throws are ok by using the right servo arm length etc... Then you'll be fine.
Thanks Mark, did that, just wondering if I am missing out on some precision of control by not using the whole range. Not really important.

Speaking of precision though, when I overhauled the dropbear, I made a new hole in the control horn on the elevator to be a very neat fit for the clevis I use on that control surface. Well..... what a difference that made. I suppose it stands to reason, but if you want a challenge, try a loose joint on the elevator control horn and you'll know what I mean. I have made a couple of comments about smooth flights in other peoples video's. I think this was the reason for the difference.
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