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Try some CorrosionX on the electronics. I've had great luck with this stuff. Before I used CorrsionX, water ALWAYS got into my electronics no matter how many layers of plastic wrap and/or balloons I used. Now I just use the red can CorrosionX and I don't care if the electronics gets wet cause they just keep on working.
http://www.buycorrosionx.com/ccp1-ca...roductsCX.html The 6 oz. size is plenty. You may be able to get it at some Ace Hardware stores. Most aviation supply houses carry it, but sometimes only in 55 gallon drums. Several of us float flyers share one large spray can and its still over half full. Mike McD |
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Latest blog entry: LEDs on my T-28
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Northwest Ohio
Joined Jan 2002
2,442 Posts
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Scott www.ModelAero.com |
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Ipoh, Perak Malaysia
Joined Jul 2006
3,575 Posts
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Hoppy, the elevator is, more or less, the datum (0-deg). The motor (normally) has down thrust of 2-3 deg with reference to this datum. The wing might have, sometimes but not always, a +2-deg of incidence, also with reference to this 0-deg elevator datum.
If you set the elevator down 2-deg, it will mean that you have no downthrust, and the wing (normally 0-deg incidence) will have 2 deg of +ve incidence. You will find the plane climbing horrendously whenever you apply the throttle! chewy |
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Space Coast
Joined Oct 2000
18,595 Posts
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I see in the Assembly Drawing, it shows the motor and horz stab both at -2 deg. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showa...mentid=2058823
Any other comments? I'm ready to glue.
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Just sent the plans for print (Great plane)
Before I get started, can someone point me in the right direction.
I would like to use material I have on hand. Will this motor work for this plane:http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...less_Outrunner Will peeled dollartree foam board work for this plane and would it be better then blue-core FF. I do have one sheet of 14"x36" 6mm depron. that could be used for the fuselage and maybe the vertical stabilizer. |
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Northwest Ohio
Joined Jan 2002
2,442 Posts
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Scott www.ModelAero.com |
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Ipoh, Perak Malaysia
Joined Jul 2006
3,575 Posts
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Hey you are right. What I said is correct in general. Maybe it's different because it's a water plane? chewy |
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Space Coast
Joined Oct 2000
18,595 Posts
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You're welcome for the plans, hoppy. Glad you enjoyed them.
Yes, I set both the thrustline and the horiz stab at -2 deg incidence, which together eliminates most of the thrust-induced pitching moment throughout the speed range. It's the negative thrustline angle relative to the wing that does all the work, by generating a down force at the tail that counters the nose-down pitching moment of the high thrustline. Best of all, it does this independent of speed. Having the horiz tail at the same angle as the thrustline puts the stab at zero angle of attack relative to the thrustline, which prevents the stab from creating pitch changes due to throttle changes. While putting the stab at an angle relative to the thrust line can also be used to counter high thrust lines, the problem is this is speed sensitive--you get different pitching moment changes depending on not only throttle position, but airspeed, too. By relying solely on the thrustline angle to counter the pitching moment and not the stab incidence, the Polaris stays in trim at a wider range of airspeeds and throttle settings. Steve |