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Old Oct 09, 2008, 04:17 PM
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Northwest Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpfing
darkseacret. I'm using a 2212-10 on mine and I have plenty of power. That being said, I'm at tad lighter at 17.5 oz. Also, use a 7x5 prop on that 2212-10. A 6x4 really doesn't get the job done on that motor..

Tony
Tony's right, a 7/5 prop will make a world of difference on the 2212-10. You will have around 27 oz. of thrust will a good battery. I would switch the prop before swapping the motor.

Scott

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Old Oct 09, 2008, 10:02 PM
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Wilmington, N.C.
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the problem now is with the servos on top of wing i routed the rudder linkeage to high to clear th 7" prop I got some figuring to do. can I raise the motor to where the center of motor would be flush to top of canard and add a new fire wall to bring it up 3/4 inch then back brace
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Old Oct 09, 2008, 10:08 PM
Retired and Lovin' it!
United States, KY, Sturgis
Joined Jul 2007
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Galloping ghost, I have a question about the 2212-10. I have had the best luck with the 7x5E APC with this motor. Vendor specs indicate the best prop for it is the 8x4 with a 3S battery. I know that it doesn't do much with a 6x4 but I was wondering if you or anyone had tried it with a 6x5.5. I know that a 7x5.5 loads it down too much.

Tony
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Old Oct 09, 2008, 11:04 PM
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Northwest Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpfing
Galloping ghost, I have a question about the 2212-10. I have had the best luck with the 7x5E APC with this motor. Vendor specs indicate the best prop for it is the 8x4 with a 3S battery. I know that it doesn't do much with a 6x4 but I was wondering if you or anyone had tried it with a 6x5.5. I know that a 7x5.5 loads it down too much.

Tony
I like the 6/5.5 on the 2212-6 and the 7/5 on the 2212-10. I know some will say the 6/5.5 is too much prop for the 2212-6, but I have alot of experience with that set-up and it is the prop of choice as far as I'm concerned. Just let it cool a bit before landing.

The same goes for the 7/5 on the 2212-10. That is one sweet set-up!!! Tons of thrust and good pitch speed, and the amp draw is very reasonable, around 16 amps wide open.

Scott

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Old Oct 10, 2008, 10:10 AM
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Thanks, gg. My 2212-10's barely get warm with the 7x5 prop. The same goes for the battery and ESC. Most of my flying with this setup is around half throttle and I'm must be getting close to 10 minute flights on a 1500 mAh bat. I don't have the equipment to measure with but the amp draw has got to be low. I've used this same setup on Steve's F-18 and Polaris and the 6mmflyrc F4D Skyray.

Tony
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Old Oct 10, 2008, 10:55 AM
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Wilmington, N.C.
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everythings moved , 7x5 prop now clears redone linkage ,used a bread tie to make eyelet linkage guide works gr8 now for remaiden .set up is 2212-10, 7x5, 1800mah batt, bp 30 amp esc
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Old Oct 10, 2008, 11:05 AM
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Good luck, darkseacret.

Tony
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Old Oct 11, 2008, 04:49 PM
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Anderson Indiana
Joined Apr 2007
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I'm the process of build the Polaris sea plane a and I read where you said to use light fiberglass to waterproof the haul. Can you explain that in a little more detail such as where the material can be purchased and how to apply it to keep weight down. Can't wait to see a water takeoff with this one.
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Old Oct 11, 2008, 05:29 PM
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Happy camper, have you read the beginning posts where Steve (Jettsett44, the designer) explains how he builds the Polaris? It is not really necessary to fiberglass the hull. You can if you wish, but it is not necessary. Just make sure that all of your seams are waterproof. I have been flying mine exclusively from grass and I glassed the bottom of mine for a little extra durability but if I were flying from water, I don't think that I would have.

There are many places on the internet where you can purchase light weight glass cloth. Just do a google search for ".6 oz fiberglass". You will find many sites.

Tony
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Old Oct 12, 2008, 08:18 AM
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Anderson Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpfing
Happy camper, have you read the beginning posts where Steve (Jettsett44, the designer) explains how he builds the Polaris? It is not really necessary to fiberglass the hull. You can if you wish, but it is not necessary. Just make sure that all of your seams are waterproof. I have been flying mine exclusively from grass and I glassed the bottom of mine for a little extra durability but if I were flying from water, I don't think that I would have.

There are many places on the internet where you can purchase light weight glass cloth. Just do a google search for ".6 oz fiberglass". You will find many sites.

Tony
Thanks for the info Tony! I think since I will be flying from grass when water is not available I'll attach the thin cutting board material that I have been using on my flying boat.

HC
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Old Oct 12, 2008, 08:33 AM
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Wilmington, N.C.
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3m extreme tape works realy well it has fibers running criss cross that add gr8 reinforcement. My styker bounced off a tree 20' up landed behind bush ,i thought for sure it was scrap but not a ding on her, I use it on everything
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Old Oct 12, 2008, 12:46 PM
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Seattle, WA
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For what it's worth, I used simple packing tape and it provides a very strong and lightweight fuselage bottom. No need to resort to fiberglass unless you want to paint it (can't paint packing tape).
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Old Oct 12, 2008, 02:15 PM
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Mesa, AZ
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Steve,

I've found that "roughing up" the packing tape with about 180 grit helps the paint adhere better. I do this on my foamy profile pushers to keep the paint from flaking off.

Pat
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Old Oct 12, 2008, 02:16 PM
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Good to know, Pat! Thanks.
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Old Oct 12, 2008, 08:16 PM
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Wilmington, N.C.
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will a 1800mah 16 c 3 cell be ok with the 2212-10 and 7x5, 30 amp esc. not sure on the hole c rating thing .I do have a 2100mah 20c 3 cell also, but its slightly heavier
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