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Old Feb 03, 2013, 01:28 AM
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Canada, AB, Champion
Joined Aug 2012
268 Posts
Polaris XL nearly finish.

Waiting for motor and esc
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 07:47 AM
59 years of RC flying
Daedalus66's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Feb 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmaynex View Post
Thank you for the responses. I am not sure I want to sand it for fear I might take off to much or some how fudge it. So I think I may leave it square. Seeingeyegod you say trim tape and I have heard others mention it but what is it exactly? I have some Scotch extreme tape I used to reinforce my CTH wings and it works well and also lighter than most tape from what I heard.
It will fly fine if you leave things square, but I like the more finished look of rounded leading edges and top corners of the fuselage (I often leave the trailing edges square). It's easy enough to do with a sanding block and fine paper (150 or so). Don't try sanding "freehand" with unsupported paper, as that's a recipe for uneven work. Just practice a bit on some scrap.

As for the tape, it's not trim tape but 2" colored packaging tape like this:
http://www.fast-pack.com/colored_tape.html

Also known in the RC world as Zagi Tape from its use to cover such wings.

I generally use it to improve the visibility in the air, as you can see in my avatar.

To stick well it needs to be ironed on, but go easy on the temperature, as you don't want too much shrinking. One nice thing is that if you don't like the results, you can just strip it off and try again.
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 05:12 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
Joined Jan 2008
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I like this stuff http://www.monokote.com/trim.html
Those are the colors it comes in, the checkerboard patterns are ridiculous time savers if you want that pattern. More expensive than tape obviously and mainly for the fact that it matches monokote colors but I really like the texture of it and it sticks to depron well, no ironing needed..
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 12:34 AM
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United States, CT, New Haven
Joined Dec 2011
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Thank you again guys. I now understand and I use this tape for visibility http://myworld.ebay.com/paperstreetplastics/, it looks to be similar. D66 I think I know now what you mean by strengthening the bottom fuselage. I did not have the last pieces installed, the ones that connect the bottom fuselage near the bottom of the nacelle.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 07:33 AM
59 years of RC flying
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Feb 2006
15,933 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmaynex View Post
Thank you again guys. I now understand and I use this tape for visibility http://myworld.ebay.com/paperstreetplastics/, it looks to be similar. D66 I think I know now what you mean by strengthening the bottom fuselage. I did not have the last pieces installed, the ones that connect the bottom fuselage near the bottom of the nacelle.
The best colors for visibility are black and white. Fluorescent orange also works well. Many of the decorative tapes look good close up but simply disappear at a distance when you really need help with orientation. Bold distinctions are what is needed, with strips being around 2" wide or more.

For protecting the front bottom against damage, the best choices are plastic sheet (the sort of stuff that's used for file folders, etc.or certain kinds of duct tape. My preference is the Scotch Tough Transparent Duct Tape, which is easy to work with, innocuous and slippery.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 12:27 PM
chronic in training
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L.A. beautiful san fernando valley
Joined Nov 2008
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quick scratchbuild question

is the centerpiece of the fin hollowed out from the front of it in the inside to allow esc and servo wires access before nacelle if sealed up?
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by grfcon View Post
is the centerpiece of the fin hollowed out from the front of it in the inside to allow esc and servo wires access before nacelle if sealed up?
I am not sure exactly what you are asking but I think it has to do with how the channel in the vertical stab is formed. If this is the case then here is the answer. The lower vertical stabilizer has 4 parts, 1. front center section, 2. rear center scection and 3. and 4. are outside side sections. The front center and rear center are separated by the channel width, and the sides sandwich these two peices creating a channel. I run my wires in the channel after all the pieces are assembled but before I glue it to the wing. It is easier for me to get the wires in the channel this way.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 03:16 PM
59 years of RC flying
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Feb 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grfcon View Post
is the centerpiece of the fin hollowed out from the front of it in the inside to allow esc and servo wires access before nacelle if sealed up?
Just take a look at the manual:
http://modelaero.com/pdf/Model%20Aer...on%20Guide.pdf

There are very clear pictures. You'll see that the fin has three layers and that the center layer is in two parts, thus creating a channel for the motor wires and elevator cable.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 04:14 PM
chronic in training
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L.A. beautiful san fernando valley
Joined Nov 2008
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thanks.. sillly question I know.. I think because my whole scratchbuild is two pieces of elmers board glued together I initially freaked out as most of the nacelle space goes away inside once you glue both sides on.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 09:06 PM
Nanaimo BC Canada
Canada, BC, Nanaimo
Joined Sep 2007
36 Posts
My Latest Polaris

Built first Polaris over a year ago, flew it on water, in parks, hung it high in a tree on a friends farm and he used a shotgun to get it down and it has been one of my favourites. But alas,one day a servo let go and it was quickly reduced to shipping popcorn. Just had to have another so i thought i would share this one as requested by Jetsett, and thanks for your excellent interpretation of the Northstar.
I decided to glass the entire thing, as i've done with my Chara designed H29, which has stood up to hard flying extremely well.
I use 3/4 oz cloth for most of the hull, with the exception of the hull which is built up with drywall sticky tape on the bottom and a layer of 2 oz over it.
For epoxy i'm using Ecopoxy with med hardener and i'm very carefull to squeegee off any excess as i don't have bagging equip- yet.
AUW with a 2200 3 cell is 875 gms, or just over 31 oz, yes heavy but this design can handle it, and i like to fly in windy conditions.
For power i picked an NTM 2836 -1800kv, 40 amp esc, and with an aggressive 7x6 e prop it is pulling 339 watts at 11.1 v at full throttle.
I also fitted a JXF 7x6 and got 282 watts at 11.27
Sooo, that will give me about 175 watts/lb. which should make me giggle.
Used a 13 gm digital metal gear servo for the ailerons, and 9 gm analog for the rudder and elev.
Just for fun i bent up a cambered full length canopy with openings front and rear for cooling. just a bit of velcro holds the rear down. I installed all servos, except the elevator, accessable in the tray, and this is first time using control cables in sleeves.
Going to maiden it tomorro.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 10:23 PM
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Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 2002
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Nice work, Rottato! That's one stout Polaris! Looks like it will be a screamer indeed.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 12:59 AM
Nanaimo BC Canada
Canada, BC, Nanaimo
Joined Sep 2007
36 Posts
Thanks! I will report back with flight results, i'm hoping for 70mph plus and the usual smooth flight qualities. I especially like flying on and off water, i just love the look of this model off water.
Thanks again!
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 03:36 AM
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United Kingdom, Aviemore
Joined Feb 2005
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Nice work Rotatto some interesting ideas there. I used control cable in sleeves too, in my case it was any tube I could lay my hands on with 1mm carbon fibre rods inside. I sunk the aileron ones into the wing which meant I had to sink the aileron servos down a little to line up with them where they came into the fuse. I did both the rudder and the elevator too, these took a little bit of work and experimentation to get them running free enough with no slop but I got there in the end.

Is it an optical thing or is the upper vert stab shown in your second picture a little off line?

Also your rudder set up appears to have a lot of unsupported rod or cable at both the rudder and servo end. I'm sure you've tested it for slop and flex but if your planning on 70mph plus you want to be sure it's not going to flutter.

Love the hatch idea that is a work of art. Keep us informed and good luck with the maiden, hope you have a video camera on the ready too. I'm sure it will fly fine at that weight for what you want it for though might not be as good at the high alfa stuff. I think you've just taken my title for the fattylarus, mine came in at 763g with 2200 3s pack
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 03:55 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Apr 2009
1,181 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rotatto View Post
Built first Polaris over a year ago, flew it on water, in parks, hung it high in a tree on a friends farm and he used a shotgun to get it down and it has been one of my favourites. But alas,one day a servo let go and it was quickly reduced to shipping popcorn. Just had to have another so i thought i would share this one as requested by Jetsett, and thanks for your excellent interpretation of the Northstar.
I decided to glass the entire thing, as i've done with my Chara designed H29, which has stood up to hard flying extremely well.
I use 3/4 oz cloth for most of the hull, with the exception of the hull which is built up with drywall sticky tape on the bottom and a layer of 2 oz over it.
For epoxy i'm using Ecopoxy with med hardener and i'm very carefull to squeegee off any excess as i don't have bagging equip- yet.
AUW with a 2200 3 cell is 875 gms, or just over 31 oz, yes heavy but this design can handle it, and i like to fly in windy conditions.
For power i picked an NTM 2836 -1800kv, 40 amp esc, and with an aggressive 7x6 e prop it is pulling 339 watts at 11.1 v at full throttle.
I also fitted a JXF 7x6 and got 282 watts at 11.27
Sooo, that will give me about 175 watts/lb. which should make me giggle.
Used a 13 gm digital metal gear servo for the ailerons, and 9 gm analog for the rudder and elev.
Just for fun i bent up a cambered full length canopy with openings front and rear for cooling. just a bit of velcro holds the rear down. I installed all servos, except the elevator, accessable in the tray, and this is first time using control cables in sleeves.
Going to maiden it tomorro.
Yeh, nicely done Rotatto. I'm sorry what did you call her, Porkalaris was it?
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 06:03 AM
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Springfield, VA
Joined Feb 2000
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Originally Posted by Rotatto View Post
i'm very carefull to squeegee off any excess as i don't have bagging equip- yet.
Next time just for grins, after squeegee effort, go over it with a roll of toilet paper and see if you soak up any more. Just be sure to roll it the correct direction--lol. As it picks up excess epoxy, tear it off and roll some more. Pretty sure this will get you down to the absolute minimum expoxy...Pete M
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