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Old Oct 11, 2012, 10:36 PM
Rick
United States, CA, Santa Clara
Joined Mar 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC_Crazy23 View Post
I went into Home Depot to get clear duck tape and it cost me $8 yicks~ might of been cheaper to get it from my LHS.
My LHS had it for $13, I went to HD for $8.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 10:58 PM
Registered User
NorCal
Joined Dec 2009
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Is this stuff you all are calling duct tape just packing tape. I grew up with duct tape that was heavy and cloth like. Then there is military duct tape, I have never found anything on shelves that woked better than that for fixing things but it was heavy. I patched a rip in the bottom of a alum boat and renewed it every year and it never leaked or tore off at 40 mph. My tax dollars at work, I loved it.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:22 PM
Which way is up?
stuball56's Avatar
Michigan, USA
Joined Mar 2008
686 Posts
I went to local Ace Hardware and they had Scotch Brand Tough Clear Duct Tape, $8.99 for a roll Pretty expensive for tape. But if used for RC it will last a long time. I put it on bottom of my Polaris. Seems slippery and very tough indeed. Should add strength even.
http://www.3m.com/brands/scotch/toug...ansparent.html
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 03:49 AM
Altitude is my friend...
Depronicus's Avatar
Southern California
Joined May 2009
1,615 Posts
Scotch Heavy-Duty Shipping tape is the best I've found yet. Get it at any big office supply joint in this handy dispenser for three or four bucks.

It's really tough, and it seems to stick well to any foam.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 06:34 AM
60 years of RC flying
Daedalus66's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Feb 2006
16,949 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raften View Post
Is this stuff you all are calling duct tape just packing tape. I grew up with duct tape that was heavy and cloth like. Then there is military duct tape, I have never found anything on shelves that woked better than that for fixing things but it was heavy. I patched a rip in the bottom of a alum boat and renewed it every year and it never leaked or tore off at 40 mph. My tax dollars at work, I loved it.
No, it's quite different. Packing tape is simply plastic film, while duct tape has fiber reinforcing and is considerably thicker.

The very best stuff for jobs like reinforcing the bottom of the Polaris and hinging hatches is Scotch Tough Transparent Duct Tape. It's strong but tearable (with difficulty), translucent (so blends with the colors), and light. I pay about $7.95 at the local supermarket (Loblaws) and it's more than worth the price. I always have a roll in my field kit and another on the bench.

Other duct tapes range from a thin, light, cheap type I get at Dollarama for doing a black stripe down the bottom of the fuselage, to Gorilla Tape, which I find good around the house but too heavy for models. I particularly like to add a few areas of Duck Tape (brand name) in fluorescent orange or yellow for visibility.

Packing tape is light and good for decoration and for adding strength to the leading edge, but it's not suitable for reinforcing the bottom for anything but pure water flying.
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Last edited by Daedalus66; Oct 12, 2012 at 07:01 AM.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 06:36 AM
60 years of RC flying
Daedalus66's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Feb 2006
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Back from a couple of weeks travel, it's time for me to catch up on this thread.

I also need a fix of RC flying, so will fire up the original Polaris.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 07:06 AM
Crash Test Dummy
Australia, ACT, Canberra
Joined Jan 2012
59 Posts
Welcome back D66. Hope you have some batteries charged!
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 07:42 AM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Sep 2011
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Welcome back Nigel, we have missed you ... well I have anyway mate

Done a little more on my SUPER PETREL if anyone is interested ... http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post22373822

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Old Oct 12, 2012, 07:44 AM
Crash Test Dummy
Australia, ACT, Canberra
Joined Jan 2012
59 Posts
Thought I'd post a few pictures of my trip last weekend to visit my family. I crated up my Polaris along with one I've been building for my brother as a surprise, and checked it in for the 1000km flight from Canberra to Brisbane. Had a great long weekend with almost perfect weather up there. We had a lot of fun flying our Polari!

The Polaris I built for my brother was the same 90% scale as mine, but I added some LED strips internally in the fuse, tail, nacelle and tip floats, and external strips on the upper fin and on the wings. I used non-waterproof strips since I intended for them to be covered by trim, but I didn't have time to finish it before I left. It should be ok as long as the exposed strips aren't powered in the water...

I built a custom LED strip controller based on a PIC microcontroller for a bit of extra bling - e.g. the nacelle LEDs pulse and there are a few different lighting modes which can be selected remotely. I'll probably post some details on my blog pages once I get myself organized.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 08:50 AM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Sep 2011
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landolo ... LOVE IT , LOVE IT, LOVE IT ... Great looking Polari, great pics NICE

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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:50 AM
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United States, IL, Glenview
Joined Sep 2011
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I can't remember the brand of the duck tape I got, but it is clear with tough fibers that's nearly impossible to rip without using scissors . It's 1.8in in width and clear I used it to tape over the spars and it seems to be holding up fine. I'm worried that exposure to the sun and other elements that the tape will come loose. Has anyone tried sealing the edges of the tape with CA? I think I remember reading that somewhere on here.

Landolo, I have to say that's a beautiful Polaris! Did you embed the LEDs into the foam? My second Polaris will have lights in them
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:57 AM
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United Kingdom, Aviemore
Joined Feb 2005
3,244 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rayonnair View Post
Hey Aviefly, nice build! Had a couple of questions.

1. How did you manage to get the side plates exactly the right dimensions? There is 2 degrees of washout that you had to follow, yes?

2. What is that aileron linkage made out of? It looks flexible. I have seen that arrangement a few times before but could never figure out how it was made!
Thanks Rayonnair

Yes the tail plane and the slots in the twin booms are both set to exactly two degrees incidence to the main wing. I used an app on my android phone for setting this and making sure the motor plate is at right angle to the tail plane. I even set the plane up vertical with both wing tips level and used the app to check the vert stab was exactly straight and again the motor plate was at right angle to this. This gave me the two degrees incidence and down thrust on the plan with zero side thrust. The side thrust can easily be checked with the motor in place by lining the prop up and sighting it to the trailing edge of the wing, the down thrust and the two degrees incidence are not as easy without an aid of some sort. It seems Steve did a fantastic job with this in the design as I am completely happy with the trimming at all throttle settings and speeds. Inverted does need a good bit of down elevator but this is to be expected with the two degree incidence. I'm still not sure I don't need to try the cog a little further aft, this might reduce it a little but I don't expect you could ever get one neutral.

Which bit of the aileron linkage are you referring to? the tube is just some plastic tubing I found laying around, it is stiff but flexible enough to bend round a smooth arc. It follows the line from the fuse of the diagonal spars and arcs around to line up with the ailerons at 90 degrees just inboard of the ends of the tail plane. I marked the curve and routed out the foam so that the tube fitted into the wing flush with the surface, I did this free hand with a dremmel with a ball shaped fitting on it. I glued the tube into the wing with the end at the fuse side stopping right inline with the inside of the fuse and the other end just rising over the main spar, this and all the carbon has very light glass cloth strips layed over them. You can see in one of the pics that the aileron servo's are sunk down below the level of the wing to put to arms in line with the end of the tubes vertically and the arms are mounted on the servo's at strange angle so that they meet the rod at 90 degrees when neutral. The aileron end of the tube got covered by the twin booms so the rod it contains emerges from the back of them for the short distance to the ply control horns with quick links to attach to the rod. The rod it's self is just 1mm carbon rod that is a close but not tight fit through the tube, it runs very freely with no slop induced. On the servo end I have short metal z bends which are bound with cotton to the carbon rod and soaked with thin ca. I thought I took more pictures during the build that would have showed these bits better but unfortunately I can't seem to find them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockey View Post
Aviefly, very nice build mate, thanks for sharing

I love the aileron setup, what size carbon rod did you use? and do you find it smooth inside the casing?

I made a motor cowl very easy by making a wooden plug and using a heat gun to mold it from a soft drink bottle

By the way, the picture of the pink one looks like the top of the fuselage is a lot more rounded, did you do this after by sanding the Depron?

Lockey
Thanks Lockey

The rods are 1mm carbon and run very smooth with no detectable slop induced. They all seem strong enough too.

It was probably your cowl that put the idea in my head. Yours is probably lighter, do you happen to remember how much yours weighed? mine was 4g with the three screws used for attachment.

Yes I rounded the upper fuse by sanding back almost to the longerons/doublers or whatever you call them. All the bare depron pics have this done though so it's probably just the the paint job that makes it appear that way. I masked off the canopy looking bit before I sprayed the orange, this is the only bare depron left. I did it that way so that when I use tape to seal round the hatches I don't end up pulling paint off. It worked better than I thought it would for giving a canopy look to it, especially in flight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daedalus66 View Post
Back from a couple of weeks travel, it's time for me to catch up on this thread.

I also need a fix of RC flying, so will fire up the original Polaris.
Welcome back, I hope you enjoy your flying. If you get time to look at the video I posted on the last page I would appreciate it if you could tell from it if it looks like I could afford to move the cog a little further aft.

This goes for anyone else with a lot of Polaris flying experience too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by landolo View Post
Thought I'd post a few pictures of my trip last weekend to visit my family. I crated up my Polaris along with one I've been building for my brother as a surprise, and checked it in for the 1000km flight from Canberra to Brisbane. Had a great long weekend with almost perfect weather up there. We had a lot of fun flying our Polari!
Very very nice indeed. Those lights are sweet.

Just one thing. Do you want another brother?
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 11:06 AM
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RC_Crazy23's Avatar
United States, IL, Glenview
Joined Sep 2011
475 Posts
How did you guys waterproof the pushrod rod exits? The kit comes with long shrink tubes to be sealed on both ends and it says to use grease or vaseline to avoid water getting into where the servos are. I'm just looking for what other options I might have besides having to mount the servos on the top of the Polairs.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 11:31 AM
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Singapore, Singapore
Joined Jun 2012
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Aviefly, thanks much for the detailed response. I wish there was a way to save individual posts... I have a wing lying around and want to use that aileron control rod technique to get to the ailerons!

RC_Crazy23, I mounted my servos on the top deck AND used grease to fill in the gaps where the control rods exited the fuselage. I didn't want them to be exposed to the grass and weeds that like to snag on stuff on our field.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 12:45 PM
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RC_Crazy23's Avatar
United States, IL, Glenview
Joined Sep 2011
475 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rayonnair View Post
Aviefly, thanks much for the detailed response. I wish there was a way to save individual posts... I have a wing lying around and want to use that aileron control rod technique to get to the ailerons!

RC_Crazy23, I mounted my servos on the top deck AND used grease to fill in the gaps where the control rods exited the fuselage. I didn't want them to be exposed to the grass and weeds that like to snag on stuff on our field.
Thanks Rayonnair, I'm on page 166, got done reading on what others have been doing and it seems people are split 50/50 on where they setup servos. I really like the clean look of the servos being on the bottom, but I definelty have to consider grass and weeds. I got till 11 tonight to decide....
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