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Old Apr 05, 2012, 01:10 AM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Sep 2011
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Over a 1000 pages must mean theres something special about this aeroplane. Have never flown a water plane before and this looks like an exciting project.
Welcome to YET another potential Polaris nut AND another Aussie at that

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Old Apr 05, 2012, 03:27 AM
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie!
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Australia, NT, Katherine
Joined Apr 2009
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Originally Posted by Stunt Double View Post
Over a 1000 pages must mean theres something special about this aeroplane. Have never flown a water plane before and this looks like an exciting project.
I guess that depends on how you have your page display set, mine is 793 at the moment.

But still that's a lot of discussion isn't it? Welcome to the incurable condition.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 06:10 AM
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DUNDAS CANADA
Joined Feb 2006
564 Posts
Brandon
You do not have to worry about the water entering the fuselage when using the tubing. When the model sits on the water, ends of all the pushrod tubes at the tail are sitting lower then inside the fuselage. I have been using that method for years on most of my seaplanes. On Polaris, I cut out the section of the wing inside the fuselage so I have large radio compartment cavity. This modification did not compromises strength of my wing.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 06:17 AM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Sep 2011
3,280 Posts
Number of posts are .... this one is #15844

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Old Apr 05, 2012, 06:45 AM
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie!
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Australia, NT, Katherine
Joined Apr 2009
1,191 Posts
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Originally Posted by Lockey View Post
Number of posts are .... this one is #15844

Lockey
Posts are easily known and cant be different from person to person but the number of pages depends on your setup. Ie how many Posts per Page.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 06:49 AM
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie!
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Australia, NT, Katherine
Joined Apr 2009
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On my iPad the number of Pages is 793 however on my Laptop it's 1057. Obviously both have the same number of Posts 15846.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 09:06 AM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Sep 2011
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Whichever way you look at it, itís a hell of a lot of pages and posts

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Old Apr 05, 2012, 10:28 AM
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United States, OH, Bethel
Joined Mar 2007
309 Posts
I too use 18g speaker wire in my reg size pink foam Polaris, without any sign of it getting warm. So I believe that high temp Silcone coated wire is un-necessary. However I did find a different problem when using it in my twin, Du-olaris (or should it be named after a binary star). Here the wire is rather long at about 40" and the wire resistance cuts the power quite a lot. Wired direct, battery-esc-motor, with a 6x4 prop the current is 30a. With the 40" of 18g in the loop the max current is only 20a. Trying a temporary piece of 40" 14g raised it to 25a. As the 18g is glued in I'll maiden with that. If found to be short on power I could rewire, or increase the batteryfrom 3 to 4 cells.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 11:46 AM
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United States, NC, Durham
Joined Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LADDIE View Post
Brandon
You do not have to worry about the water entering the fuselage when using the tubing. When the model sits on the water, ends of all the pushrod tubes at the tail are sitting lower then inside the fuselage. I have been using that method for years on most of my seaplanes. On Polaris, I cut out the section of the wing inside the fuselage so I have large radio compartment cavity. This modification did not compromises strength of my wing.

What did you use for tubing? I'm having a hard time finding it online.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 12:47 PM
60 years of RC flying
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Feb 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frugalflyer View Post
I too use 18g speaker wire in my reg size pink foam Polaris, without any sign of it getting warm. So I believe that high temp Silcone coated wire is un-necessary. However I did find a different problem when using it in my twin, Du-olaris (or should it be named after a binary star). Here the wire is rather long at about 40" and the wire resistance cuts the power quite a lot. Wired direct, battery-esc-motor, with a 6x4 prop the current is 30a. With the 40" of 18g in the loop the max current is only 20a. Trying a temporary piece of 40" 14g raised it to 25a. As the 18g is glued in I'll maiden with that. If found to be short on power I could rewire, or increase the batteryfrom 3 to 4 cells.
Thanks for that. The wire in the Polaris is 18-20", about half the length you are talking about for the twin. Like you I haven't seen any problems.

I'm planning to do some tests to find out more about the factors that determine the power available to the prop. So far, I've done a few quick tests and found a bigger range than I expected. Depending on the individual motor and battery combo, the power going into the motor varied from under 200 to over 260 watts. I need to do more systematic tests to sort out the variables. I have several of the standard 2212-6 motors plus one of the HK clones. And I have a wide range of batteries from 1500 20C to 2200 30C and of ages ranging up to nearly five years. I will add wire size to the tests (I'll run an external cable to the motor and try 14, 16 and 18 gauge. I'll report my findings here.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 01:00 PM
60 years of RC flying
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Feb 2006
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Originally Posted by mamba max1 View Post
What did you use for tubing? I'm having a hard time finding it online.
There are all sorts of possibilities, from the tubing that comes with WD40 and other spray cans, to some ball point pen refills, to the outer sheath of some RC control cables. The way it's done in the Polaris kit can be seen in the manual. Basically there's a piece of plastic tubing maybe 1-1.5" long that's a loose fit on the push rod wire, Then a piece of heat shrink and inch or so longer is slipped over the wire and tube, with the tube centered. When shrunk, the latter forms a nice snug but not tight fit around the wire and also gives a good surface for gluing the guide through the fuselage side. I've also done it without the heat shrink and it worked OK, but I like the method shown in the manual.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 01:44 PM
What could possibly go wrong?
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Market Harborough
Joined Apr 2006
3,773 Posts
Frugalflyer... I like your twin. Variations on a theme are always interesting. Have you added much weight at the back?

I built a twin also, but I built it with a wide bodied hull and I found that, with the added lift at the front and the added weight at the back I needed extra ballast to get the CoG right. I always try to fight anything that needs added lead in the plane, but I found that it was worth it in this case.

Keep experimenting!

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Old Apr 05, 2012, 10:00 PM
flying or crashing into air?
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Australia, VIC, Langwarrin
Joined Feb 2011
1,343 Posts
Hi guys.
I have just built the 125% Polaris and have fitted the stock 2212-6 motor with 6x4 prop .
Bench tests have me thinking its under powered with this combo.
Can anyone recomend a better motor /prop combo for the 125% ?
It looks like an 8 inch prop would just fit
Thanks
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Old Apr 06, 2012, 03:50 AM
flying or crashing into air?
wizzard363's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Langwarrin
Joined Feb 2011
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Would any of these do the job ?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...r_1320kv_.html

or this one
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140721559...84.m1423.l2649
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Old Apr 06, 2012, 04:38 AM
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Springfield, VA
Joined Feb 2000
1,205 Posts
If you read previous posts, assuming your weight is not outrageous, the standard Polaris motor should fly it fine (depending on your definition of underpowered, that is :-) ). D66 has reported several times the motor combo flys the 133% acceptably, so it should fly the 125% as well. Or you could go with the recommended 133% motor (2810-9, a 1400Kv motor)...Pete M
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