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Old Feb 03, 2012, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Daedalus66 View Post
No relation to me. That's a bunch of employees of a Swedish firm (Epsilon in Malmo) doing stuff in their own time. Looks like they are better designers than pilots!
The Daedalus name is an obvious one for anyone who likes to make flying things. Daedalus was the smart old guy who made wings for himself and his son Icarus to escape from Crete, where King Minos had them imprisoned. Of course, young Icarus got carried away, flew too high and let the sun melt the wax that attached the feathers, so fell into the sea. There have been quite a few models called Icarus, but I don't like to be associated with crashes!

Neat little gadget. I gather they are going to sell them or make them available somehow.
I remember that saying,,,
they didn't have hot glue back then but I got a kick out of the toy and thought you would also..
CRASH we don't need
Lenny
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 08:35 AM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
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Australia, WA, Perth
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D66, thanks for the info, I did order a 1400 and a 1700 at your recommendation from HK for the XL Polaris BUT as usual, they are out of stock

Would one of these do the job do you think?

Lockey
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 10:07 AM
59 years of RC flying
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
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Originally Posted by Lockey View Post
D66, thanks for the info, I did order a 1400 and a 1700 at your recommendation from HK for the XL Polaris BUT as usual, they are out of stock

Would one of these do the job … do you think?

Lockey
One of which???

This looks pretty good, though more expensive.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_Motor.html
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 10:09 AM
59 years of RC flying
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
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Originally Posted by lennyboy View Post
I remember that saying,,,
they didn't have hot glue back then but I got a kick out of the toy and thought you would also..
CRASH we don't need
Lenny
Wax was the ancient Greek equivalent of hot melt glue. Neither is recommended for flying close to the sun!

(Not particularly recommended for Polaris construction either. Hot melt glue gets very heavy very quickly.)
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Daedalus66 View Post
Wax was the ancient Greek equivalent of hot melt glue. Neither is recommended for flying close to the sun!

(Not particularly recommended for Polaris construction either. Hot melt glue gets very heavy very quickly.)
Whoops
Lenny
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 11:07 AM
59 years of RC flying
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
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Originally Posted by lennyboy View Post
Whoops
Lenny
Does that mean you build with hot melt?

The key to light construction is to use just enough glue. It should be a thin uniform film in the joint with none on the outside.

I can't imaging building the model with hot melt glue, as you wouldn't have enough working time to put things together. The only place I use it is to attach the servos. If I need to adjust or remove, a quick blast with a heat gun (Monokote type) softens the glue.

For construction I use epoxy and foam-safe CA mostly. I've also used UHU Por. And some people use Gorilla Glue or other PU.

For most work, 5-minute epoxy is fine, but for anything that involves long glue lines, like installing the spars, inserting the wing or gluing on the bottom I use slower setting stuff (12 minute or 30-minute).

I've never found it necessary to put fillets of glue anywhere on the Polaris, but I do take lots of care to make sure I have the joints well glued and pinned or taped securely together while the glue is setting. I've never had a water leak at a joint. I do find that epoxy is superior for the really important joints, but I make sure to wipe off any that squeezes out.
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Daedalus66 View Post
Does that mean you build with hot melt?

The key to light construction is to use just enough glue. It should be a thin uniform film in the joint with none on the outside.

I can't imaging building the model with hot melt glue, as you wouldn't have enough working time to put things together. The only place I use it is to attach the servos. If I need to adjust or remove, a quick blast with a heat gun (Monokote type) softens the glue.

For construction I use epoxy and foam-safe CA mostly. I've also used UHU Por. And some people use Gorilla Glue or other PU.

For most work, 5-minute epoxy is fine, but for anything that involves long glue lines, like installing the spars, inserting the wing or gluing on the bottom I use slower setting stuff (12 minute or 30-minute).

I've never found it necessary to put fillets of glue anywhere on the Polaris, but I do take lots of care to make sure I have the joints well glued and pinned or taped securely together while the glue is setting. I've never had a water leak at a joint. I do find that epoxy is superior for the really important joints, but I make sure to wipe off any that squeezes out.
Going on 3 years of building ,,YES I use Hot Glue
But I also have used the CA foam safe at $10.00 per oz. at local hobby shop,,And the 2 Part epoxy is very dependable and I have used it that for a skin coat on the belly of the Polaris..
Came out like a mirror...
Gorilla glue is good stuff but your hands turn black like a coal miner but very strong..
I found spray a mist of water to the 2 surfaces then use the gorilla FAST DRIES WHITE to my leading edge and tape it up asap cuts back on the foaming and mess..
But great bond.
The Epoxy I use for motor mounts and important area's for a strong bond..
My Polaris was at 2 LBS> at take off?? even if I did use the hot glue..
I found the low temp hobby glue gun works great for me..
I can do the the half section of the Polaris with no big hurry..
If you careful not to burn your finger you can lick your finger,,And skim some off before it set too.
But beware I have burnt myself a couple time as I'm sure we all have??
It 's water tight and held up good till I drove it into the ground..

I've heard CA is brittle but great for a quick fix at the field..
Well true confession
Later,
Lenny
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 12:20 PM
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I've built with CA and Gorilla glue and Mostly epoxy for 5 years.
I recently started using hot glue on some flying wings and I must say it has it's place!
You can crash pretty hard and the glue and foam flex together.
You can build a plane in an evening.
It's cheap.
It doesnt stink up the place like epoxy.
No iritating foaming.
Unlimited shelf life
I have a deck of playing cards handy and use them to wipe up excessive hot glue instead of my finger.
^all that far outweighs the weight penalty- for me.
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 01:22 PM
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When I woke up this morning I looked out my window to find it had snowed! It wasn't much but plenty more is on its way Unfortunately though, my polaris isn't built yet and is just a pile of cut out depron parts on top of my wardrobe

I finally received my carbon fiber parts through the post and am now just waiting for some epoxy then the build will begin.

Just a couple of things,
how long does it usually take to build?
Also, what is the best way to use UHU Por? When I tried it on a couple bits of scrap depron and left it to dry overnight, I still managed to easily pull the parts apart.

Alex.
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 03:41 PM
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Hello Alex

I've used lots of UHU Por. It's the one I like best, mainly because it's not so brittle as the CA. I spread it on one side of the joint, push the two sides together and smear them about a bit, then take them apart and wait 3 mins. It works fine, even for a destructive flyer like me. I use epoxy for motor mounts or landing gear if required.

I think I took 2 or 3 evenings for my mini Polaris. Don't waste a moment - you'll love it in the snow!

Nick
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 05:52 PM
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Although I use a large variety of glues, 5-minute epoxy is what I use most for security and cure times - long enough to make adjustments, short enough to get the job done. It also seals well for waterproof joints.

After a long warm and dry winter here, today the snow is on it's way! The forecast is for 7-11 inches by this time tomorrow. Hopefully, the high winds will let up by Sunday. My Polaris is primed and ready to deploy!
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nickchud View Post
Hello Alex

I've used lots of UHU Por. It's the one I like best, mainly because it's not so brittle as the CA. I spread it on one side of the joint, push the two sides together and smear them about a bit, then take them apart and wait 3 mins. It works fine, even for a destructive flyer like me. I use epoxy for motor mounts or landing gear if needed

Nick
this is precisely the way I used Por as well. Put it on one piece, smear it onto the other with the first piece, pull apart for 3-4 mins the push gather and let dry properly. I find my depron will break before the glue joint. Ditto for epoxy. Motor mounts and undercarriage only. I do use foam safe CA and kicker for lightweight stuff like gliders. But the kicker is very noxious and I only use it outside.
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 09:23 PM
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Auto Pilot

Probably just getting old, but too many times I fly too far away, not always on purpose, and blink. Now the Polaris is just a high speed dot that slowly starts spiraling in (to the water). My New Years resolution is to build up a Sparkfun Ardruino autopilot with 9 axis IMU w/GPS that can fly home. Is it just me that has this problem? Another alternative is the IR horizon sense unit from Hobby King, but the IMU will be a lot more fun!
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 09:54 PM
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I'm almost a senior pilot also . I find high visibility in neon Day Glo paint from Michaels
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 09:55 PM
Aus
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Originally Posted by MileHiFlight View Post
Probably just getting old, but too many times I fly too far away, not always on purpose, and blink. Now the Polaris is just a high speed dot that slowly starts spiraling in (to the water). My New Years resolution is to build up a Sparkfun Ardruino autopilot with 9 axis IMU w/GPS that can fly home. Is it just me that has this problem? Another alternative is the IR horizon sense unit from Hobby King, but the IMU will be a lot more fun!
Simple - don't blink .

Seriously, you are not on your lonesome there MHF. My first Polaris was lost (and still is ) after I lost orientation on the maiden. Since then, I ensure I have plenty of contrasting color applied and try not to let it get too far away. There are still some orientations that confuse me and I have learned to trust the model (and myself) that everything is alright and not to move the sticks. The orientation that seems to mess with me most is the turn from base leg to final. I just consciously remind myself that I have initiated a turn and it will come around. It certainly gets the heart racing and the sticks are gripped a bit tighter, but I always regain orientation and continue with the approach.

The Polaris is my first delta wing, so I can't comment on whether this is a unique characteristic of the deltas, but I certainly find this to be a challenging model with respect to orientation. I certainly don't throw the Polaris aimlessly around in a crazy attempt at aerobatics - this would mean certain Polaris death with me in (or out of ) control.

Aus.
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