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Old May 27, 2012, 10:05 AM
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Wilfor's Avatar
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CT4

Nice find . I love the screen capture trick for getting it out of sketchup
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Old May 28, 2012, 07:56 AM
Damn this gets addictive.
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On the subject of printing on tiled sheets.
Has anyone worked out the printable sizes for a set number of pages?
I'm thinking that if you worked out that 6 pages set out 3x2 landscape gave you a printable area of y by z then you could start with a box of that size and fit your plans into it. If nobody has tried this I will give it a go.
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Old Jun 01, 2012, 01:47 AM
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By far the easiest way is a direct print from sketchup... but the process is still confusing people..
Remember the better /closer you can box the area you want printed the less pages it will need to print on

I thought of a simple idea to help you get your tiles put together accurately...

Add a grid over the plans.... using a light color for the lines so you dont get muddled between the grid and the plan lines
If you have a color printer you just use a different color grid..
The grid only needs enough lines each way to make sure you have them on each page.
A 4" grid seems ok.
trim the pages and line them up using a long straight edge
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Old Jun 04, 2012, 04:04 AM
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Printing out
Its a common problem that has a solution.. and the solution has been put here a few times... From sketchup you can print out at full size, or at any smaller scale.. you can print sections by framing them in the working window.. you can add a grid to make lining up tiles accurate.. You can also print it all out as a PDF, tiled or full, if you install something like cute pdf writer...
unfortunately there is no solution if the info is not read, or it gets forgotten..( as I tend to do)

Whist other programs will do your poster printing just fine, there really is no need to use them for sketchup plans..
Other than some kind of pdf maker which lets you export the plans for anyones easy use..
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Old Jun 04, 2012, 05:56 AM
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Well said Dave!

Ken
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Old Jun 04, 2012, 08:52 AM
treefinder
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My onesheeters print to 8 letter size pages with a small margin all around. That is a 30" by 20" area. I use cutepdf and scale & tile.
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Old Jun 04, 2012, 12:19 PM
Damn this gets addictive.
Thechittyfather's Avatar
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You misunderstand me. I was thinking about making the most of the paper. If you tile a drawing with sketchup or by some other method it will work out how many pages it's going to use. If you are 1mm over the printable area it will then add a page either end and you end up printing air. Couple that with the fact that there will probably be some blank edges from not being able to scrunch the window that close to the drawing and you end up wasting paper.
My thought was that as I try to get the best from whole sheets of foam my plans are roughly the side of a sheet. If I figure out how many pages are needed for this with the smallest amount of waste taking into account the overhang of each page from tiling then I could start each plan with a rectangular box of the right size.
Does that make sense? Anyone tried it?
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Old Jun 04, 2012, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thechittyfather View Post
You misunderstand me. I was thinking about making the most of the paper. If you tile a drawing with sketchup or by some other method it will work out how many pages it's going to use. If you are 1mm over the printable area it will then add a page either end and you end up printing air. Couple that with the fact that there will probably be some blank edges from not being able to scrunch the window that close to the drawing and you end up wasting paper.
My thought was that as I try to get the best from whole sheets of foam my plans are roughly the side of a sheet. If I figure out how many pages are needed for this with the smallest amount of waste taking into account the overhang of each page from tiling then I could start each plan with a rectangular box of the right size.
Does that make sense? Anyone tried it?
Many of the contributors here, e.g., springer and birdofplay, start their plans with such a right-sized box, in order to make the parts fit on a standardized sheet size.

One of the versions of ScaleAndTile3, _v3v, has the capability of cropping before tiling. This capability allows the user to eliminate unwanted content, e.g., white space on the edges, from an image/PDF that is used for input, tiling only the part of the content that remains after cropping.

Cheers,
Bill Segraves
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Old Jun 04, 2012, 06:36 PM
treefinder
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tcf, nope I don't misunderstand you at all, like Bill said, I fit one sheeters to a single sheet of Dollar store foam, which is 20x30". The most efficient fit for letter size sheets is the 8 sheets 4 across and 2 down if I recall right. And, like he said, I start with the 20x30" box, and figure out how to fit all the parts into it. I use Bill's super program to do the final "fitting.

With the advent of MPF, I'm still working on the best fit way to print a onesheeter 2x4 size. The OSS has cut sheets for the larger size.
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Old Jun 05, 2012, 02:25 AM
Damn this gets addictive.
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Sorry springer. Not sure if we posted at the same time or what but I didn't see your post untill after I wrote that. Your answer was exactly what I was after.
Three questions. What size sheet is letter size? I'm assuming not the same as A4. Are you printing landscape or portrait? What overlap do you have?

Bill. I haven't read this entire thread (all 1000) posts but did start working my way through it. I got the impression that ScaleAndTile was invite only software and that it was no longer available. I wish I had the time to read all the way through but life is just too busy.
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Old Jun 05, 2012, 07:11 AM
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...
Bill. I haven't read this entire thread (all 1000) posts but did start working my way through it. I got the impression that ScaleAndTile was invite only software and that it was no longer available. I wish I had the time to read all the way through but life is just too busy.
ScaleAndTile3, _v3u and _v3v, are still available. These two versions are similar to _v3i and _v3k, respectively, except that they use/require the iText 2.1.7 library.

ScaleAndTile3, _v3u and _v3v, are available on request via email, with complete contact information, i.e., full name & RCG ID, postal & email addresses, and telephone number(s). Your contact information is never shared with anyone.

Best regards,
Bill Segraves

P.S. _v3v requires a donation for The Rotary Foundation.
P.S.2. My email address can be found at the bottom of post #41 here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=779667&page=3
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Old Jun 05, 2012, 07:37 AM
treefinder
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tcf: I gather you're not here in the "colonies" Letter size is 8.5"x11", while A4 is narrower and longer if I recall right. Bill's program can print to either, which is nice. The overlap is just what he built into the tiling algorithm, i think it's about a quarter inch. Nice thing about his program is that it can add and print grids, and corner marks to align the pages.The landscape or portrait actually depends on how i set the initial box up. I try to do it landscape, but sometimes in fits of creative passion....() I start portrait. (you'd think I'd be more disciplined...) If you haven't already, click on my username, and you can get links to the onesheeters in my blog. there are the basic onesheeters on 20x30, half sheeters on 20x15, and the OSS (so far) on 24x48.

Once you build your model, unfold it, and get it down to the z axis, (unfold and pflatten plugins) you can start building the puzzle and move the parts into the box you have made for the print. In my case I make and arrange every part, as i'm trying to fit the entire plane onto the single sheet. If you just want to get all unique templates on the sheet, you can use a much smaller box (one winghalf template and one fuse half, for instance).
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Old Jun 05, 2012, 02:20 PM
Damn this gets addictive.
Thechittyfather's Avatar
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Springer. Cheers for the info. That's what I was after.

Bill cheers for the info. Please don't be offended but that is more info than I feel comfortable handing over to someone I've met on a forum. I'll struggle on with the way I have it down.
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Old Jun 05, 2012, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Thechittyfather View Post
...
Bill cheers for the info. Please don't be offended but that is more info than I feel comfortable handing over to someone I've met on a forum. I'll struggle on with the way I have it down.
I understand. No problem here.

Cheers,
Bill Segraves
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Old Jun 06, 2012, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thechittyfather View Post
You misunderstand me. I was thinking about making the most of the paper. If you tile a drawing with sketchup or by some other method it will work out how many pages it's going to use. If you are 1mm over the printable area it will then add a page either end and you end up printing air. Couple that with the fact that there will probably be some blank edges from not being able to scrunch the window that close to the drawing and you end up wasting paper.
My thought was that as I try to get the best from whole sheets of foam my plans are roughly the side of a sheet. If I figure out how many pages are needed for this with the smallest amount of waste taking into account the overhang of each page from tiling then I could start each plan with a rectangular box of the right size.
Does that make sense? Anyone tried it?

You are absolutely correct... tiled sheets will make rectangles of a size dependant on the number of sheets the printer will use in each direction..and to make it worse the printer will always center the plan, so when you are a fraction over the "full" size you get two extra lines of sheets, unfortunately its not simply an extra page for the bit that goes over the edge..
forward planning is the answer if you want to save on the paper...
sometimes just swapping the orientation of the pages ..landscape to portrait.. will help... but mostly its planning the layout of your drawing...
dont forget you can use the print preview to sort out these usefull sizes.. draw a rectangle (or simply a line) X by Y size and check how many pages it will need to print it out.. play with the rectangle to resize your block and use that to find the usefull printer block to plan block sizes.. then you can plan your drawings to suit the usefull blocks...

you might also think of putting one set of lines over another.. having different parts in different colors.. ok for color printers, not so good on my black and white lazer... lol.. some model mags used the colored multi layer approach for their plans....

There is another thought.... I know its best to have the "green" approach these days, but the cheap printer paper is only 2.66 for 500 sheets thats 2 sheets for 1p .. why worry.. more often than not the wasted sheets are blank and can be reused through your printer

ScaleAndTile3..... good stuff... thanks to Bill.... some info that may help http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1560478&page=3
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