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Old Oct 16, 2012, 02:49 PM
DFC~ We Do Flyin' Right
bsbauman's Avatar
USA, GA, Atlanta
Joined Nov 2008
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Congrats on your maiden

Now that you have had your docile flight; push your limits a bit and explore what this plane can do

It all comes down to preference, but FWIW I love the PA method of assembling pushrod geometry and have adopted the process to several other planes over the years. IMO if you set it up right to begin with, you will not need to make any adjustments down the road at all. My oldest PA plane currently in my hangar is the Addiction, and have never had to make one adjustment.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 09:10 AM
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thx bsbauman.

for my part the pushrods were personal preference and is more accomodating on my so-so skills in putting an ARF together. If I make a mistake that's too short or too long, I can easily adjust. to each his own and good for whatever methods work best.

I have had around 2 dozen flights and just now beginning to push it around a little. I plan to use 3" durbo wheels to avoid the minor wing scraping on the occasional sharp turns. I am still using APC prop but do plan to switch over shortly since I want to avoid painful prop chip until I am very comfortable with her. I had though about switching over after the first 6 flights but held out until larger wheels arrive and I can switch out both both prop and wheels at the same time. that will likely be this coming weekend.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 09:13 AM
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btw - has anyone found an alternative to making installing batteries easier on this plane? (i.e. making the top brace removeable)

I am sure this has been asked but I have not had much time to dig through all the posts to confirm.

thx
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 09:37 AM
They Call him Dead!
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United States, SC, Pawleys Island
Joined Jul 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef_rc View Post
btw - has anyone found an alternative to making installing batteries easier on this plane? (i.e. making the top brace removeable)

I am sure this has been asked but I have not had much time to dig through all the posts to confirm.

thx
Try an Aeronaut 13 x 6.5 ot 14 x 7

They are very similar performance to the Xoar and they are molded carbon. VERY stiff and great prop for same price as xoar give or take. They take way more abuse than Xoar

Also, look at the attachments in this thread. There are several different ways to remove the top brace. I removed the one in the front of wing. Others remove the one in back of wing. Some did both.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:40 PM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef_rc View Post
btw - has anyone found an alternative to making installing batteries easier on this plane? (i.e. making the top brace removeable)
This has been the subject of much enthusiastic debate. Some argue that there is nothing wrong and battery access is fine. This may be true providing you don't use Velcro to on the battery and tray. Some just use thin foam rubber on the tray which along with usual Velcro straps seems to retain the battery ok and allows it to be slid in under the brace.

Personally I want the removable brace route with the brace retained by a couple of pins. This way I can use velcro on the battery and tray, no problem. Details in this old post: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=5344

Others cut out the top brace altogether and stiffened up the formers with carbon rod.

Steve

PS.. I'm with you on the PA pushrods. Each to their own but IMHO the only thing they have in their favour is being very light and cheap to produce. Lack of adjustability is a pain. Even if you initially get the length spot on you still have to end up carrying sub trim after you trim out the plane, especially true on the AMR elevator which always needs to be trimmed down. The longer term problem is they become very sloppy as the holes in the horn wears over time. Ball links are much better as far as I'm concerned.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 01:00 PM
Precision Aerobatics Team
demonGti's Avatar
South Africa, GP, Randburg
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
This has been the subject of much enthusiastic debate. Some argue that there is nothing wrong and battery access is fine. This may be true providing you don't use Velcro to on the battery and tray. Some just use thin foam rubber on the tray which along with usual Velcro straps seems to retain the battery ok and allows it to be slid in under the brace.

Personally I want the removable brace route with the brace retained by a couple of pins. This way I can use velcro on the battery and tray, no problem. Details in this old post: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=5344

Others cut out the top brace altogether and stiffened up the formers with carbon rod.

Steve

PS.. I'm with you on the PA pushrods. Each to their own but IMHO the only thing they have in their favour is being very light and cheap to produce. Lack of adjustability is a pain. Even if you initially get the length spot on you still have to end up carrying sub trim after you trim out the plane, especially true on the AMR elevator which always needs to be trimmed down. The longer term problem is they become very sloppy as the holes in the horn wears over time. Ball links are much better as far as I'm concerned.
The PA linkages work just like they are intended. If you take the time to do them properly there is no need to adjust. Ok fair enough, the AMR need down trim on the elevator, but are you saying you trim your planes mechanically using adjustable linkages ... I think not
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 01:02 PM
Precision Aerobatics Team
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South Africa, GP, Randburg
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So whats the use of having a fancy computer radio that can do everything except check your email, if you don't use the functions. One word... technology... embrace it JPF
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 01:39 PM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
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Originally Posted by demonGti View Post
but are you saying you trim your planes mechanically using adjustable linkages ... I think not
Think again because I pretty much always do. Obviously initial trimming is done with the trims on the Tx, but then I usually adjust the pushrods to return the servo to centre and neutralise the trims.
Probably me just showing my age and being 'old school' harking back to a time when there were no digital trims or sub-trim. Anyway, I like the option to mechanically adjust the pushrods, if you don't that's fine.

Steve


PS....
And they still get sloppy, the elevator on my AMR 'slops' 3mm in each direction and it's almost all caused by play in the pushrods/horns. This has just built up over time as the hole in the horn and arm have worn. To be fair it's doesn't seem to effect the way the plane flies, it's just a bit irritating.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 01:44 PM
Precision Aerobatics Team
demonGti's Avatar
South Africa, GP, Randburg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
Think again because I pretty much always do. Obviously initial trimming is done with the trims on the Tx, but then I usually adjust the pushrods to return the servo to centre and neutralise the trims.
Probably me just showing my age and being 'old school' harking back to a time when there were no digital trims or sub-trim. Anyway, I like the option to mechanically adjust the pushrods, if you don't that's fine.

Steve
If your servos are centred and the control surfaces are firmly taped while you make up the linkages there will be very little if any trim required.
But you have my admiration for doing it the hard way
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 05:49 PM
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United States, WA, Port Orchard
Joined Feb 2011
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Using stock sized batteries, there is no need to mod battery access. Put a strip of rubbery foam weatherstrip on the battery tray, and put a Velcro strap attached to the underside of the tray that will wrap to the top of the battery around both sides. Attach opposite side of Velcro to one side (top) of battery only. Battery slides in easy, two Velcro flaps wrap around the sides and affix to top of battery.

Works good, lasts long time.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 06:08 PM
I'm torquing to you!
Mr Kamikaze's Avatar
Wattle Grove NSW Australia
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
PS....
And they still get sloppy, the elevator on my AMR 'slops' 3mm in each direction and it's almost all caused by play in the pushrods/horns. This has just built up over time as the hole in the horn and arm have worn. To be fair it's doesn't seem to effect the way the plane flies, it's just a bit irritating.
I've had this trouble and found a hint on RCG on a way to fix it. Don't remove or undo anything. Simply put a drop of CA in the hole on the horn and arm (CF PA ones) with the pushrod all hooked up. Then simply work the surface backward and forward manually for about 30 secs to a minute while the CA goes off. The CA fills the hole and makes it all nice and tight again.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 06:21 PM
They Call him Dead!
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United States, SC, Pawleys Island
Joined Jul 2003
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The braces make battery access fiddly to say the least. It is difficult for me to get my hands in there to plug and unplug lipo and to strap on and off the velcro. I guess you can say there is no "NEED" but it sure makes my life lot easier!

It is very important to have your servos set up so that when centered, they are pretty much parallel to the hinge line. If the servo arm is not parallel when centered and trimmed then you get non linear throws as you move the control surface. This can make a big difference when you are dealing with large, 3D throws with extra long servo arms.

The stock PA assembly works. It is also a pain in the a## to set them up properly. The miniscule bit of weight savings in no where near worth the hassle in my opinion. I also can't help but think that this "better way" is just down right cheaper for PA to produce.

Just my two cents...
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 06:21 PM
They Call him Dead!
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United States, SC, Pawleys Island
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Originally Posted by Mr Kamikaze View Post
I've had this trouble and found a hint on RCG on a way to fix it. Don't remove or undo anything. Simply put a drop of CA in the hole on the horn and arm (CF PA ones) with the pushrod all hooked up. Then simply work the surface backward and forward manually for about 30 secs to a minute while the CA goes off. The CA fills the hole and makes it all nice and tight again.
Maybe someone should tell my ex wife this trick!
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 07:24 PM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Sydney, Australia
Joined Jan 2007
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Have a close look at the Z bends when you take them from the packet too. Mine in my AMR had deep scores from the bending process which would chew out the CF horns in no time. I filed the ridges smooth, and probably saved wearing out my horns over time, though i only got 200 flights out of mine before I killed it.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 07:55 PM
I'm torquing to you!
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Wattle Grove NSW Australia
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Originally Posted by Dead View Post
Maybe someone should tell my ex wife this trick!
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