Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer

the AMR does the easiest and fastest KE spins out there. All you need is both sticks hard forward.. it doesn't get much easier.

Here's a vid I shot last night with an onboard cam looking back. KE spin starts at 30 seconds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zTN5uY_1Xo

Beautiful Spin but,did I see a little left rudder?

Originally Posted by bonner

Beautiful Spin but,did I see a little left rudder?

Yeah, a bit.. It's more out of habit than anything else. My other planes need rudder so my thumbs tend to go into automatic pilot. The AMR definitely spins faster with little or no rudder though adding a touch of rudder may slow the rate of descent a bit.

I just now finished my AMR and I'm in the middle of getting the CG and realized what a PITA getting the battery in/out is going to be.

I dont understand why they couldn't have made the battery tray 10mm lower to make it easier for different brands of batteries. It's hard enough that the top wing is in the way but why such a small compartment for the battery ? I'm thinking I will be doing some cutting and gluing to adjust the tray.

It's going to be a battle getting my 3s 2200 Rhino packs in there the way it is.

Has anyone modded the battery tray for easier access ?

If anyone wants a new set of wheel pants for their AMR you can have mine for $7 shipped.

I wont be using them on my grass field.

They are yellow.

Originally Posted by tukkus

I just now finished my AMR and I'm in the middle of getting the CG and realized what a PITA getting the battery in/out is going to be.

I dont understand why they couldn't have made the battery tray 10mm lower to make it easier for different brands of batteries. It's hard enough that the top wing is in the way but why such a small compartment for the battery ? I'm thinking I will be doing some cutting and gluing to adjust the tray.

It's going to be a battle getting my 3s 2200 Rhino packs in there the way it is.

Has anyone modded the battery tray for easier access ?

If you go back through these postings you'll see a mod with carbon struts placed diagonally after cutting those 2 formers. I fly with a 4 cell and it fits perfectly under them. After a few flights you get adept at putting the batt in. You'll love this plane once you fly it though. Tail wheel needs a mod too and strengthen the motor box!

Originally Posted by cepheus

If you go back through these postings you'll see a mod with carbon struts placed diagonally after cutting those 2 formers. I fly with a 4 cell and it fits perfectly under them. After a few flights you get adept at putting the batt in. You'll love this plane once you fly it though. Tail wheel needs a mod too and strengthen the motor box!

+1. I augmented the front Former and the rear Former! Makes it sooooo much easier

Originally Posted by tukkus

...what a PITA getting the battery in/out is going to be.

Yep, there are few ways to modify the former to improve access. I made the top cross brace removable which works well: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=5344

Oops, I meant Former

Originally Posted by tukkus

I just now finished my AMR and I'm in the middle of getting the CG and realized what a PITA getting the battery in/out is going to be.

I dont understand why they couldn't have made the battery tray 10mm lower to make it easier for different brands of batteries. It's hard enough that the top wing is in the way but why such a small compartment for the battery ? I'm thinking I will be doing some cutting and gluing to adjust the tray.

It's going to be a battle getting my 3s 2200 Rhino packs in there the way it is.

Has anyone modded the battery tray for easier access ?

yes, real PITA, i even broke it once... (no, 2ce, 1ce with velcro, second time idk how i did that...) , yeah, for me lg screws kept going out, yeah, red visibility in air is not the best....



but once it is in the air, on a calm day, i kept forgetting all the minuses it has!


and if you move battery lower, it changes cog... not much but plane flew different...

Been really trying to get through the thread and make a decision on the AMR. So far I've seen that the motor box is weak, tail wheel will not last, visibility/orientation not the best. I really like it but, the motor box issue is putting me on the fence. I want a bipe and I want a bipe that I can take with me and not have to break it down. The AMR looks and from the vids flies great. I just need to think about it a little more I guess.....

Originally Posted by kuczy

Been really trying to get through the thread and make a decision on the AMR. So far I've seen that the motor box is weak, tail wheel will not last, visibility/orientation not the best. I really like it but, the motor box issue is putting me on the fence. I want a bipe and I want a bipe that I can take with me and not have to break it down. The AMR looks and from the vids flies great. I just need to think about it a little more I guess.....

You wont be siddapointed!I have not had the "weak motorbox and tail wheel" issue.as for orientation,I think it's pretty good
Regarding the battery tray,if you move it the plane WILL fly diffrent.it was mounted where it is for a reason and I promise you that Shaun had it there after much testing.I fly with Turnigy 2200's and they fit just fine

I saw that some 3s2200s are a tight fit. I have some Turnigy and GensAce so I hope they'd fit. Still trying to decide. The H9 Christen Eagle is a little bit too big and the Miss Wind costs too much. I don't want a foamy either...

The motor box is ok (flexible but still ok) once you glass the rear of the motor mount plate with the bit of glass cloth that comes with the kit. It's irritating that PA couldn't actually sort out the problem during building in the factory. PA take their usual stance on the issue in denying that there is a problem, yet at the same time they include instructions and materials to reinforce it... hmmm. But at the end of the day glassing is not a big deal.
Tailwheel is a minor issue, more of an annoyance really, again easily fixed.

I've got a green one and I've never had any problem with orientation. Battery access is probably the thing that would be most difficult on a day to day basis unless you do something to fix it.

The motor box is weak. Simply use the fiberglass reinforcement supplied with kit and you are golden. Get the yellow one for great visibility. Put a different tail wheel on it. Go ahead and change the formers before you build and you will be happy. Do not use vector on battery tray. Use super soft insulation foam and strap battery in.

Quite frankly I am put off by all these issues. BUT there is not another bipe in this size on the market that can even come close to this plane's performance envelope! It is really a joy to fly! Pain in the ass to basically fix all the poor manufacturing issues that PA SHOULD have fixed a long time ago? Yes it is. Worth it? ABSOLUTELY!

Originally Posted by kuczy

I saw that some 3s2200s are a tight fit. I have some Turnigy and GensAce so I hope they'd fit. Still trying to decide. The H9 Christen Eagle is a little bit too big and the Miss Wind costs too much. I don't want a foamy either...

Gens Ace 3S 2200, 60-120C batteries, which are probably bigger than average, fit just fine. To make it easier, I didn't put any velcro on the battery tray. I coated it with Welders to create a thin rubber like surface so the battery wouldn't slide around and attached velcro battery straps at both ends to hold the batteries down. I slide the batteries in with the attached velcro facing up. The velcro straps grip onto the battery as well as to each other to secure the batteries.

Putting the batteries in still can be a pain, but not more so than putting the canopy on.