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Old Dec 08, 2011, 01:42 AM
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masehare's Avatar
Cape Town
Joined Oct 2009
245 Posts
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Originally Posted by aerofundan View Post
I can tell you that on mine, the way i liked it, i had to push the battery very far forward, i dont remember the exact position, but i think about half of the battery was in front of the battery tray! at that point it just flew fantastic!, tracks amazing, about 8-10% elev, so don't be afraid to move the battery until you get the plane to fly right!, remember that the most important is that you setup the plane to fit your flying style! what works for one may not work for other!
Mine was also initially set up according to the manual, but I've been moving the battery forward with good results. It now needs a slight push on the elevator to keep it flying level inverted. At the moment the battery (2200 Turnigy) is about 1/4 in front of the battery tray.
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Old Dec 08, 2011, 07:34 AM
They Call him Dead!
YellowJacketsRC's Avatar
United States, SC, Pawleys Island
Joined Jul 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
one slip and its new spinner time
VERY true
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Old Dec 08, 2011, 11:08 AM
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Wind Junkie's Avatar
Syracuse, NY
Joined Sep 2003
811 Posts
PA carbon spinner

One note on that spinner from PA:

I found the spinner to be very light, but far from true in my case. When mounted, the point would "wobble" about 1/8" and it caused vibration that made the plane much louder than expected (which is how I first discovered the problem years ago).

I recently examined a friend's new Ultimate at a local gathering and I see his spinner was also not true, so I think it may still be a common issue.

In my case, I didn't rely too much on the machine screws to hold the prop in place, because by the time I sanded the rear of the spinner perimeter to allow it to sit true on the backplate, I needed to elongate the holes for the screws and they weren't able to securely clamp the spinner where it needed to be for a true run. So I just applied a few drops of thin CA and kicker to the spinner/backplate joint. Not a big deal cause I dont' change props that often on this bird.

Joe
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Old Dec 08, 2011, 03:56 PM
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United States, CA, Sunnyvale
Joined Mar 2011
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As an update to those who responded to my CG issue.

Battery is now flush with the front edge of the battery tray and the plane is fantastic.

Some of the prettiest blenders n snaps I've been able to do on any plane, harriers with the slights hint of wing rock, inverted is ALMOST hands free needing a nudge of up once in a while.

Just need to dial in KE mixing n D/R n xpo then its fun times!

CG is estimated to be a full cm ahead of the 59.5mm at the tips.

Thanks to all that chimed in, u guys were a great help!

Vincent
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Old Dec 08, 2011, 06:44 PM
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Mr Kamikaze's Avatar
Wattle Grove NSW Australia
Joined Nov 2006
7,345 Posts
Hey that's excellent news. When the AMR is dialled in right it's a crazy fun plane.
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Old Dec 08, 2011, 07:52 PM
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Joined Apr 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vhuang168 View Post
As an update to those who responded to my CG issue.

Battery is now flush with the front edge of the battery tray and the plane is fantastic.

Some of the prettiest blenders n snaps I've been able to do on any plane, harriers with the slights hint of wing rock, inverted is ALMOST hands free needing a nudge of up once in a while.

Just need to dial in KE mixing n D/R n xpo then its fun times!

CG is estimated to be a full cm ahead of the 59.5mm at the tips.

Thanks to all that chimed in, u guys were a great help!

Vincent
Well done!!!! Now your in for a lot of fun!!
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 12:47 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vhuang168 View Post
CG is estimated to be a full cm ahead of the 59.5mm at the tips.
Vincent, That's precisely (near as i can make out) where the CG was on mine when i checked... Seems like we have discovered something here, the optimum CG position seems to be 55mm.

I wonder if the guys who were/are claiming that the manual position of 59.5mm (the half mm precision still makes me smile) is correct would have a quick double-check and see if their CG really is @59.5mm or if the model is maybe hanging a little nose down when they balance at that point (indicating that's not really where the CG is at all).
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 08:06 AM
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Manchester, UK
Joined Nov 2005
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I'm tempted by the look of this plane, but the pushrod assembly is a bit worrying. I gather it's done with heatshrink, which usually means holding a soldering iron very close to the plane. Is that the case with this one?

I've seen an addiction with a hole in the side where the guy slipped while doing that. If that's the only way, I'd hate to risk it with such an expensive airframe. I don't do covering, so I'd end up with clear parcel tape patches, which is not a good look.

Not being able to read the build instructions in advance is off putting too. I found Precision Aerobatics' post about copyists, but surely, if they seriously wanted a copy of the manual they'd find a way to get one - maybe even buy a kit? Not making it available to prospective customers has to be damaging sales.

This is the most expensive airframe I've ever considered buying but not having the manual available to download is one of the main reasons I've hesitated. All it would take is an hour or so with a scanner, then uploading the pictures here.
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 09:27 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
11,196 Posts
The pushrods are carbon rod with wire ends. The wire ends are roughened up then bound to the carbon rod with Kevlar thread, then CA'ed. Heatsrink is added mainly to make it look neater, not really for strength.
You make the pushrods up off the plane so no need to heat the heatshrink anywhere near the plane itself. Best tool for the heatshrink is a heatgun, not an iron (though that will work).
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 10:51 AM
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Manchester, UK
Joined Nov 2005
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Good. Thanks, JetPlaneFlyer.

Is there a rod stopper at one end of each pushrod, to adjust the length, or do you have to measure it exactly when you make them up?

Is there room for a wider motor? I've been looking for cheaper alternatives to the recommended one (not difficult to find) but the sizes vary. Is 42mm too wide? Also, is the length critical?

I'm not intending to do any 3D. I don't even need 1:1 thrust to weight, really. I'd rather prop it for a longer flight time and less wear on the batteries - say 25A tops.

I realise it's meant as a 3D plane, and this will horrify a lot of people in this thread, but I figure 250W would be plenty. I'm considering it because of the looks, low wing loading and alleged ease of building (though without a manual to read, I can only take that on trust), not because it can fly 3D.
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 11:06 AM
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Joined Apr 2007
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You have to measure them exactly as you go. I personally never liked this style of pushrods as I first came across them on the Tensor, and its always stuck in my mind that its a foamy pushrod assembly LOL (not to mention I can never make them exactly the right length). But the RC Mafia guys have been using the stock method on their aircraft.

On my previous KMD's and AMR I used Dubro 1/16 ball links instead, the brass coupler fits nicely over the stock carbon pushrods, and you have some adjustment when done. Glued the brass to the carbon using JB Weld, and worked fine for me.

The plane is not very difficult to build, just a little "fiddly" when it comes to the wing assembly ("jiggery poker" skills required!!!), but it is explained clearly in the manual.
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 11:18 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
11,196 Posts
Andy,

As noted above, the downside of the AMR pushrod design is you have no adjustability, but you can alter the length up to the point that you hit it with CA. So you can leave that until you have everything test assembled, then hit the CA, and the pushrod is guaranteed to be correct length.

the interconnecting pushrod between the ailerons do have an adjuster at one end, so they aren't as critical.

For a cheap motor that drops straight in, picks up the standard mount holes, and weighs the exact same that the Thrust 40, and performs great with the recommended 14x7 prop, pick up one of these: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/epower-gt2...-p-406113.html
i used one in my AMR for a while and it did a great job for the price.
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 12:57 PM
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Andy2No's Avatar
Manchester, UK
Joined Nov 2005
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Thanks, MalaysianFlyer and JetPlaneFlyer.

I used ball links on my Hyperion Sniper, but with threaded 2mm rods, and a rod stopper on one end. I suppose I could just do that with the AMR too. It's a nice slop-free system, and it's adjustable.

I looked at that GT2820 850Kv motor on Giantcod. I noticed the one review mentioned the Xoar 14x7, and wondered if it was an AMR owner I was considering maybe a smaller motor, more suited to 20-25A WOT, and bigger batteries to make up the weight, for balance, but I suppose I might have trouble fitting them in the space, plus I already have half a dozen 20C 2200mAh 3s lipos. The fact that it fits the screw holes is a good argument for getting it anyway.

Any idea what size prop I'd need for that motor to get 25A WOT or a bit less? I could get a couple of 11" and 12" props to try it, I suppose. I have lots of 10" or less props, but not much that's bigger.
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 01:05 PM
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Panama
Joined Jul 2005
3,449 Posts
Here is an awesome how to on the PA page for learning how to do the pushrods! It was written by Radio Rookie!

http://www.precisionaerobatics.com/p..._id=38&set=USA

I can tell you this pushrod method is awesome, it is extremely light, super strong, and they won't fail!, i have used them for thousands and thousands of flights on many different PA airframes, and i have never had a problem!, just make sure to center you servos before you start doing the pushrods, then you can also tape the surface, with this plus the tips from radio rookie, the pushrods are extremely easy to do!
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 01:08 PM
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shadow102's Avatar
United States, GA, Acworth
Joined Mar 2011
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smallest i would probably suggest running on the AMR is a 12x6 and even then it was still woefully underpowered.
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