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Old Nov 23, 2011, 05:11 AM
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shadow102's Avatar
United States, GA, Acworth
Joined Mar 2011
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Originally Posted by full flaps View Post
Waiting for Christmas to fly mine.
Being the thoughtful husband I am I ordered an AMR on behalf of my wife to ease her Christmas shopping worries.
Now I'm trying to read through this forum gleaning info from y'all. But apparently my mind isn't absorbent enough. I'm only on page 90 ... 304 to go!
So I hope you'll forgive me if this question has been previously addressed:

I have designs on recycling a Hacker A30-14L which I recoverd from an involuntarily modified plane I see that the prop shaft on the Hacker is 3/16" (or 5 mm?) longer than the Thrust 40 on my Addiction X. Both motors use a 5 mm shaft. Should I replace the Hacker shaft with the shorter T-40?

I assume I'll need to remove the clip on the back of the Hacker before mounting. And yes, the mounting holes are the same for both motors.
i have no problem with my hacker motor i used the prop adapter it came with and a dubro spinner and there is a perfect gap at the cowl
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 05:16 AM
They Call him Dead!
YellowJacketsRC's Avatar
United States, SC, Pawleys Island
Joined Jul 2003
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Originally Posted by subsonic View Post
All the time, especially on wet grass. CA will solve it forever.
Yup...
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 06:41 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
11,181 Posts
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Originally Posted by shadow102 View Post
i have no problem with my hacker motor i used the prop adapter it came with and a dubro spinner and there is a perfect gap at the cowl
Mine is fine too but i used the plywood spacer that came with the motor which moves the motor back 3 or 4mm. The spacer should be fitted anyway because the hacketr has a circlip on the shaft that would catch on the small hole in the motor box mounting plate. The ply spacer has a bigger hole which gives the cirlip plenty of clearance.

You could easy make a ply spacer, it's simply a ply ring with the OD to match the front of the motor, a hole for the shaft plus holes that line up with the motor cooling and mounting holes. Not sure if Hacker might sell these spacers as spare parts? I guess you could also just use large washers as spacers between the motor and the mounting plate to achieve the same result?

Steve
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 05:23 PM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Sydney, Australia
Joined Jan 2007
3,020 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by full flaps View Post

I have designs on recycling a Hacker A30-14L which I recoverd from an involuntarily modified plane I see that the prop shaft on the Hacker is 3/16" (or 5 mm?) longer than the Thrust 40 on my Addiction X. Both motors use a 5 mm shaft. Should I replace the Hacker shaft with the shorter T-40?

I assume I'll need to remove the clip on the back of the Hacker before mounting. And yes, the mounting holes are the same for both motors.
You can remove the circlip with no problem, as when used "rear mounted" the motor does not need the clip to hold it together. If you remove this clip, can't you just slide the motor shaft in 5mm further? Failing that you could even just cut the shaft to the correct length
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 01:13 AM
Watch it...Watch it ...Duck!
full flaps's Avatar
San Dimas, CA
Joined Nov 2009
185 Posts
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Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
Mine is fine too but i used the plywood spacer that came with the motor which moves the motor back 3 or 4mm. The spacer should be fitted anyway because the hacketr has a circlip on the shaft that would catch on the small hole in the motor box mounting plate. The ply spacer has a bigger hole which gives the cirlip plenty of clearance.

You could easy make a ply spacer, it's simply a ply ring with the OD to match the front of the motor, a hole for the shaft plus holes that line up with the motor cooling and mounting holes. Not sure if Hacker might sell these spacers as spare parts? I guess you could also just use large washers as spacers between the motor and the mounting plate to achieve the same result?

Steve
Great idea. I was afraid the gap between the cowling & the prop might be too large otherwise. Perhaps some nylon stand-off spacers would do the trick.
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 01:15 AM
Watch it...Watch it ...Duck!
full flaps's Avatar
San Dimas, CA
Joined Nov 2009
185 Posts
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Originally Posted by subsonic View Post
You can remove the circlip with no problem, as when used "rear mounted" the motor does not need the clip to hold it together. If you remove this clip, can't you just slide the motor shaft in 5mm further? Failing that you could even just cut the shaft to the correct length
Thanks. I was hoping the clip could be removed just like the Thrust 40.
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 12:05 PM
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Panama
Joined Jul 2005
3,446 Posts
Guys remember today is the Black Friday - 24 hours special discount. We are offering you a massive 20% discount this Friday, 25th of November. To get the 20% discount go to www.PrecisionAerobatics.com this Friday and at the checkout menu enter coupon code "BLACKFRIDAY11"
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 12:51 PM
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United States, GA, Acworth
Joined Mar 2011
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already took full advantage of that coupon picked up a bunch of stuff for the MD i need to repair and finally got around to replacing the cowl on my AMR

Thanks PA
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 06:53 PM
Watch it...Watch it ...Duck!
full flaps's Avatar
San Dimas, CA
Joined Nov 2009
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Originally Posted by shadow102 View Post
i have no problem with my hacker motor i used the prop adapter it came with and a dubro spinner and there is a perfect gap at the cowl
That's reasuring. Maybe I'm concerned for nothing. Thanks Shadow.
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 07:01 PM
Watch it...Watch it ...Duck!
full flaps's Avatar
San Dimas, CA
Joined Nov 2009
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Originally Posted by aerofundan View Post
Guys remember today is the Black Friday - 24 hours special discount. We are offering you a massive 20% discount this Friday, 25th of November. To get the 20% discount go to www.PrecisionAerobatics.com this Friday and at the checkout menu enter coupon code "BLACKFRIDAY11"
Been there, done that. Excellent deal! So now I have an AMR which I was planning on giving to my wife to give to me for Christmas and a Bandit with IPAS on the way for my birthday list. My birthday isn't til May though. Hmm, do I want the AMR now & the Bandit later, or .....
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Old Nov 27, 2011, 07:17 PM
FLYINGJUNKY
eschult's Avatar
USA, FL, Jacksonville
Joined Mar 2008
833 Posts
I bought a cg machine and went back and looked at my planes as i had just eyeballed the cg in the past. My PA extra 260 and slick 42 checks out to be accurate according the sugg. cg. however my ultimate seems to be way off. I used everything from the ipa package but the battery. I have a battery that is 8 grams lighter than PA's. If I wanted to go with the 59.5 cg ballpark I would have to add over 3 OZ. the the tip of the spinner. Should i add a led weight or any other suggestions would be great. This one has gotten me stumped.
Thanks,Eric
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Old Nov 27, 2011, 07:30 PM
They Call him Dead!
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United States, SC, Pawleys Island
Joined Jul 2003
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DO NOT add lead weight! That defeats the purpose of these super light planes completely. Can you push your lipo up into the motor box to achieve CG? If not then buy a larger battery, at least you will get some return on the extra weight you've added.

Also, I don't ever worry about suggested CG placement. I set mine for neutral flight (that is it flies level hands off both upright and inverted). I simply fly the plane and trim for level flight at 3/4 throttle and then I roll inverted. If the plane dives, then it is nose heavy and I move the lipo back and try again. If the plane climbs when I go inverted, then the plane is tail heavy so I move the lipo forward and try again. Some people prefer that the plane be slightly nose heavy so that they will need to add just a bit of down elevator (pushing the stick slightly forward) while inverted. But whether you chose neutral or slightly nose heavy, this is where you need you CG in order to get the best 3D performance. If you are looking for sport performance, you may chose to move the CG just a bit more forward....

I would suggest you try this process before you do anything like changing lipos....
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Old Nov 27, 2011, 07:48 PM
FLYINGJUNKY
eschult's Avatar
USA, FL, Jacksonville
Joined Mar 2008
833 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dead View Post
DO NOT add lead weight! That defeats the purpose of these super light planes completely. Can you push your lipo up into the motor box to achieve CG? If not then buy a larger battery, at least you will get some return on the extra weight you've added.

Also, I don't ever worry about suggested CG placement. I set mine for neutral flight (that is it flies level hands off both upright and inverted). I simply fly the plane and trim for level flight at 3/4 throttle and then I roll inverted. If the plane dives, then it is nose heavy and I move the lipo back and try again. If the plane climbs when I go inverted, then the plane is tail heavy so I move the lipo forward and try again. Some people prefer that the plane be slightly nose heavy so that they will need to add just a bit of down elevator (pushing the stick slightly forward) while inverted. But whether you chose neutral or slightly nose heavy, this is where you need you CG in order to get the best 3D performance. If you are looking for sport performance, you may chose to move the CG just a bit more forward....

I would suggest you try this process before you do anything like changing lipos....
Did not want to add the extra weight if i did not have to. I was ok with my cg the way it was but this cg machine had me really thinking or maybe OVER thinking, LOL!!!!!!! Thanks,
Eric
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Old Nov 27, 2011, 07:51 PM
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United States, GA, Acworth
Joined Mar 2011
4,313 Posts
everything i been told since i started flying is that CG machines are a waste of money...set the battery where the plane flies and then adjust it to your liking
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Old Nov 27, 2011, 08:12 PM
Registered User
Joined Apr 2007
1,174 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by eschult View Post
I bought a cg machine and went back and looked at my planes as i had just eyeballed the cg in the past. My PA extra 260 and slick 42 checks out to be accurate according the sugg. cg. however my ultimate seems to be way off. I used everything from the ipa package but the battery. I have a battery that is 8 grams lighter than PA's. If I wanted to go with the 59.5 cg ballpark I would have to add over 3 OZ. the the tip of the spinner. Should i add a led weight or any other suggestions would be great. This one has gotten me stumped.
Thanks,Eric
Just out of curiosity, did you measure the 59.5 at the wing root or wing tip? I seem to recall that the AMR CG measurement was at the wing tip of the upper wing, so it would be much longer if measured at the wing root. Someone correct me if I am wrong
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