|Oct 13, 2008, 01:33 PM|
Ive got a 'bat microlight' that has a 2ft rogallo wing ,
I took the trike off and hung a weight from the balance point of the wing and it glides beautiful when you drop or throw it!
Im wondering if i should roughly copy the shape for my wing, not sure yet though.
Ive got my dads microlight (pictured on first post) that i can look at but to be honest comparing a rogallo wing to the modern weight shift wings is like chalk and cheese
So wouldnt really help me much,
I used design ideas for the trike off the real one though
|Oct 14, 2008, 08:36 AM|
Thanks for the pics, that looks really well built!
Have u got any video?
I was on the net till half 1 this morning reading up on rogallo wings and billow shift etc and have discovered a big problem with the construction of my wing!
The cross brace is meant to be 'floating' and i have mine mounted solidly,
This effectivley stops the wing billow shiftin which is why my wing turns and then cant right itself so dives into the floor.
Look at the first video on the field, when the weight shifts- the wing turns but both billows stay the same so the turn gets tighter and tighter,
Also i learned about reflex in the wing and wingtip washout,
Ive made the wing again with a floating crossbar, adjustable reflex and some washout tips to keep the tips flying if the main part of the wing stalls.
Its looking promising
Hoping to test soon but its to windy at the moment
|Oct 17, 2008, 12:45 PM|
ive just bought four microlight handbooks to read up on,
i have learned quite alot about how the wings work etc and can hopefully modify my wing to get it flying nice,
from reading these ive learned that i need to reduce the drag that my wing is creating,
the airfoil shape at the front of the wing needs to be smaller,
i need to reduce the billow of the wing a fair bit,
i need to reduce the reflex alot, or remove it completely.. i can add reflex to slow the wing down afterwards if i want,
the chord of wing needs to be shorter, this should increase the lift to drag ratio and help it glide better,
the washout tips ive fitted seem to be a necessity to stop the tips stalling when the main part of the wing is stalled,
also a necessity is the floating cross bar, in one of the books it says' using a rigid cross bar would make the wing unflyable'
ive also decided to take pitviper51's advice and use battern style (but flat) rods glued to the sail to give it abit of bracing.
ive started making the 'A' frame so it can limit the amount of wing movement backwards and forwards (and so i can mount the pilot)
you can hear the keel hitting the prop in the videos above, it snapped in this place in the last crash.
also a small mod i made is to fit rubber wheels instead of the solid foam wheels this should give is some 'suspension' on rough fields,
the trike will have proper suspension eventually but isnt worth making it just for flight testing as itll probably get trashed
edit: heres a new video i found on youtube:
Last edited by mark675; Oct 17, 2008 at 12:54 PM.
|Oct 19, 2008, 01:55 PM|
no problem antonio, hope you dont mind
have you got any close up and detailed pics of your trike and wing?
it flies awesome!!
id love to know how you got it to fly so nice,
|Oct 19, 2008, 02:44 PM|
thanks, other photos find to them here:
page of my delta trike
I do not have plans, the conception has been made during the construction. salutes
|Nov 14, 2008, 02:33 PM|
thanks for the pics antonio
its been a while but ive decided the shape of my wing is a lost cause
the shape is totally wrong and the bits at the back just flap when its going along.. increasing drag and not giving and additional lift at all!
after looking at antonio's wing ive decided to go for a basic triangle shape,
this should work alot better than what im using at the moment,
im also looking into trying a different material for the wing but not sure yet.
on a plus note though- the engine is running beautifully now its fully run in
more updates soon
|Nov 26, 2008, 04:27 AM|
MIA 1980-2008 Trikes
I stumbled on this thread and it brought back memories of my RC trikes.
I am almost sorry I sold my very first wing I built for an 8ft Electric Powered hanglider back in the 80's. (picture by the pool and with my two daughters). I didn't have the room to fly the 8ft wing one at the time I sold it, but now I do, and I miss it. So I am building a new one of same size.
The problem most people run into with trying to build a realistic RC Trike is improper CG, and mainly control. I did too and looking at some of the new comers to scratch-building RC trikes, I can't help but to smile, how I went through the same process.
My very first attempt was a wing tiping over, same as some people show in their videos on You Tube, because I didn't know anything about trike design at that time, but I found out a lot of information by pure trial and error, later comparing it with real trikes and fine tuning each aspect of the design, step by step.
I found that simplicity helped a lot, and was better than making a model true to scale, from the start, at at least until I got the mechanics worked out and finally perfected the control for RC Model Applications. Last thing I wanted to do was to do another Rogallo, weigh shift model, these never appealed to me because they didn't look right for some reason...the wing is too short and has less appeal than a thinner and high aspect ratio wing, in my opinion.
I started with the typical ways of controlling using weight shift, but I found better ways and have not looked back since.
I did this video back in 2002, because the model flew so well with a control system that I designed and developed especially for these models, I have since been adding only aesthetics, like a working pilot and a full body for it, to give it a more realistic appearance.
The trike in the video is one of several sizes, I designed and built from scratch. It is a super light wing version, not complex at all, but the CG and control system requires correct setting for it to work with precision, as in the video.
Last edited by MarioIArguello; Nov 26, 2008 at 05:06 AM.
|Nov 26, 2008, 06:08 PM|
Last edited by Mr. Angry Eyes; Nov 26, 2008 at 06:17 PM.
|Dec 14, 2008, 11:31 AM|
nice control MarioIArguello,
what material do you use for the wing?
ive got a new design for controlling the wing, not trying it until ive fully tested the one im using now.. im bracing the steering arms to stop them flexing as its a fair way up to the wing from the servos and they havent got any support,
the new design is still using weight shift but will have a cable to each side of the wing attached to a servo in the trike, this should put less stress on the servos and give better and more direct control,
|Dec 26, 2008, 02:44 PM|
ive designed another new wing steering system and a completely new design for my wing! lol
it has adjustable wing angle so the billow can be adjusted by the length adjustable 'cross bar'
it has battens to make the airfoil shape along the leading edge,
a fin at the back for yaw stability and after reading up ALOT on real microlight wings ive realised just how important the flying wires and luff lines are to the wings stability and efficiency, im actually very suprised my first try flew at all! ...there must of been a huge dihedral when its flying and a microlight wing needs slight anhedral to aid in turning (wing sweep gives dihedral affect for stability)
this of course isnt the only reason my first try wasnt exactly successful- there were lots more things that were wrong- no washout struts, no 'floating crossbar', sail was way too loose, no leading edge airfoil shape.. the list goes on
having the tips of the wing behind the actual trike is important for pitch stability and creates a nose down attitude if the wing stalls
im mounting the 'A frame' at the moment as this is the part which limits the angle of attack of the wing fore and aft so stops the AOA getting too steep and stops the heel hitting the prop, it also provides a mount for the lower flying wires and king post ontop of the wing, this is also fullly adjustable.
ive read up alot on billow shift now and understand about how the luff lines (reflex bridle) increases billow shift and the 'fin' lets the sail shift from one side to the other
my new wing sail is going to be alot tighter than my previous wing which should reduce drag and increase lift alot
im feeling really confident about my new wing and instead of gluing the connectors etc to the wing spars (like i did last time!) im machining clamp style connectors so parts can be adjusted to fine tune the wing and the speed the aircraft flys at,
hopefully now ive learned alot more about these wings ill be able to get this thing flying nicely
ive just bought a flycamone2 video recorder for when it flys properly.. imagine it just behind the pilot so you can see his hands moving the control bar -should be awesome!!
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