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Old Jun 09, 2009, 11:25 PM
Put a bigger motor on it!
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Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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I got another 2 flights on this beast 2 weekends ago. For the 2nd landing, I forgot to switch my elevator back to high rate so I had a very poor flare which ate up the right main landing gear, exactly the way the left one broke back in post #37 and #40. The left one held up fine with the new gear block I made in post #40, so I duplicated the design for the right gear. I'm ready get back in the air! Oh by the way, the new rudder from the previous post worked out great!
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Old Jun 17, 2009, 01:54 AM
Gilbert, AZ
chalmrast's Avatar
Gilbert, AZ
Joined May 2007
3,564 Posts
Can you please tell me if you had to add any weight to the front of the plane with batteries behind the firewall?

Also, what servos are you using for the flaps?

Thanks,

Chad
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Old Jun 17, 2009, 10:39 AM
Put a bigger motor on it!
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Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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I didn't have to add any weight. I'm carrying 29oz of batteries, plus another 6oz for the receiver battery. After I finished the conversion, I put the plane on a balancer and then manually positioned the batteries on top of the plane and moved them around until I got the CG I wanted. Once I figured out the battery positions, I built the battery tray in that spot.

I using standard servos, the ones that came with my Futaba 7C, for the flaps.
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Old Jun 17, 2009, 11:28 AM
Gilbert, AZ
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Gilbert, AZ
Joined May 2007
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Thanks for the info.... I picked one of these up fairly cheap on Craig's List... built but never flown. The guy did a pretty good job as it was the 2nd one he built. I bought it RTF with receiver, servos & Robart retracts. But, it came with an OS engine and I know nothing about nitro motors. It will be converted to electric as soon as time & funds allow.

When I was at the LHS the guy there said I need really strong servo's for the flaps because they have to hold them in position with all the wind force. He recommended HS-645MG's at a whopping $30 each
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Old Jun 17, 2009, 10:49 PM
Put a bigger motor on it!
gtfreeflyer's Avatar
Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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The standard servos hold it up just fine. If you are worried, just circle around once at half throttle to ensure you've dropped some airspeed before lowering your approach flaps, and then let your airspeed drop some more before dropping the flaps the rest of the way. Sure, if you drop your flaps on a full throttle run, then you may put too much load on the servo. I've never had a problem with it.

I've always used the same procedure: I drop my flaps half way when I'm flying down wind. I don't drop the flaps the rest of the way until I'm on final. If I think my airspeed is still a bit high after the downwind, I'll drop the flaps before I turn base, or as I'm turning final. It all depends on my mood.

Oh and by the way, don't use full flaps when the wind is blowing hard. I made that mistake... and then I made some repairs.
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Old Jul 19, 2009, 01:40 PM
Put a bigger motor on it!
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Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Random pic

I was at the Dayton airport, waiting to catch a flight, and practice for the upcoming airshow was underway. Check out this pic I snapped while sitting in the airport...
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 06:51 PM
Put a bigger motor on it!
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Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Up in post #40, I show a pic of my new landing gear mounting block. This block just split on me this weekend, exactly how the other blocks split. These blocks are just not meant to take high side loads. These side loads come from taxiing around on the flimsy wire struts. The crack did not penetrate all the way thru the block, which was great because no part of the airplane touched the ground upon landing (except the wheels of course). I've had it with this fixed gear thing. I just bought Century Jet retracts, a 4-way valve for scale gear swings, and a gear & door sequencer Time for more modifications, and a new challenge for me... doors!
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 09:17 PM
Gilbert, AZ
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Gilbert, AZ
Joined May 2007
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I've had the best luck with gear blocks by laminating up layers of ply with epoxy. Your wing will break before the blocks do!

I was just thinking about my Top Flite Corsair today because I just finished my H&M Corsair & maidened it Sunday.

Your Century Jets & components will add at least another pound to your bird. I know when I put the Robarts (lighter than CJ's) in my CMP it added a pound.

I'm going to put a Scorpion 4025-12 in mine and try it on 6S. The plane feels heavy to me even without the batteries & motor . I'll have to get it down & weigh it...

If you look on RC Universe you'll see a thread with gear doors...
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Old Sep 18, 2009, 11:28 AM
Put a bigger motor on it!
gtfreeflyer's Avatar
Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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The retracts are in. I had a slight problem with the 4-way valve I ordered and CJ sent me a replacement part within about 12 hours after receiving the email from me. I also have some offset door hinges coming in the mail. I can't wait to start cutting up my wing. I'll post pics as I go along with the retrofit.
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Old Sep 21, 2009, 12:16 AM
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Ecuador, Pichincha, Quito
Joined Aug 2002
545 Posts
Helllo GT, just read your blog while looking for some advice on the TF Corsair conversion to electric. I am presently budgeting my project (also very low on modeling-money) and plan to start it sometime next year, after getting the kit here. Will continue to add all the necessary items (motor, ESC, etc) along the build until I get it done. I have been flying e-models for almost six years now and wanted to go for something challenging when I found the TF Corsair at Tower Hobbies. Will keep an eye in your blog to see how your old Corsair continues flying. Good Luck!

Carlos A. Cordova
QUITO - ECUADOR
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Old Sep 21, 2009, 12:44 AM
Put a bigger motor on it!
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Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Sounds good Carlos. Don't ever hesitate to ask me any questions. My first piece of advice for you is to use dual aileron servos. Don't use one servo for both ailerons like the instructions show. Good luck! It's a great plane. You'll like it.
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Old Sep 22, 2009, 07:49 PM
Put a bigger motor on it!
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Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Feb 2007
1,563 Posts
Alright, the retract modification is under way. I had to experiment a few times with making the fiberglass doors. I think I have something I like now. I also decided to make a mold of the underside of the wing so that I can reproduce the landing gear doors in the future if I have to. To do this, I covered up the wing, added spackling, sanded it down, and am soon going to make a nice thick fiberglass replica of that area. If anyone needs doors, let me know. We can work something out.
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Old Sep 22, 2009, 07:53 PM
Put a bigger motor on it!
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Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Here are some pics of the CJ retracts. One of the first things I did was add a JB weld fillet where the upper torque arm collar meets the cylinder. I heard this was a weak area.

I also decided to paint the struts to look more realistic. The paint is drying while I type this.
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Old Sep 22, 2009, 09:03 PM
Gilbert, AZ
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Gilbert, AZ
Joined May 2007
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Looking good!
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Old Sep 25, 2009, 09:14 PM
Put a bigger motor on it!
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Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Feb 2007
1,563 Posts
I finally cut up the wing. I'll post pics soon. The CJ retracts don't seem to go completely into the wing when retracted. They stick past the OML of the wing, which would prevent the doors from closing. I may have to get creative and make another contoured mold for the doors.

Anyone else with the same plane and retracts have this issue? If not, I'd like to know how you got everything to fit inside with the doors closed.
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