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Old Jan 28, 2012, 07:28 PM
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Joined Jun 2009
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I did this procedure like 5 times. Values change and it helped my other chanels. I'm having probs with my elev Chanel. In the monitor, I'm just right of center about 3 mm. Full down, to the right of second line about one mm. Then up stick, problem, at the first line. Never noticed it. I have been goin to full up and right. Setting the middle. Then full down left on both sticks. Then exit and save. All the rest of channels go to full second line and center great. Help me pls.
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 12:55 PM
100k parts vibrating in unison
Helohead's Avatar
United States, MO, St Charles
Joined Aug 2011
233 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jt41time View Post
... I'm having probs with my elev Chanel. ...
Jt41time,

I’m not sure I understand the problem…

1st in monitor mode, if you have any mixes turned ON then your going to see the mix of the channels. Make sure all mixing is turned OFF.

What I think you’re calling the “second line” is called 100%, first line is 50%, end line is 125%, notice the sign (+ or -) in the images. Please use this nomenclature in your posts.

The 3 images show the Center, Right, and Left with an ELE to AIL Mix turned ON so the AIL is at unexpected locations.

Image 1 “Stick Centered” everything is normal except AIL (+2) because the mix is on.
Image 2 “Stick Back” the ELE (master servo) pulled back to -100%, so the AIL (slave servo) moves -25%.
Image 3 “Stick Forward” the ELE is pushed forward to +99%, so the AIL moves +27%.


The images are .JPEG’s you may be able to copy, edit is MS Paint and re-post to better explain what you’re seeing…

Randy
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Last edited by Helohead; Jan 30, 2012 at 01:20 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 04:23 PM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Feb 2008
267 Posts
Re-assign trim switches

Great information. Are there other functions that are not in the manual?
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Last edited by crosstrim; Feb 27, 2012 at 11:43 PM.
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Old Sep 09, 2013, 05:24 PM
Professional amature
Canada, BC, Kamloops
Joined Oct 2011
96 Posts
Try this if it will not enter calibration mode...

Great post mcmatrix!!

I had to resort to trial and error to get my DX6i into calibration mode. The original instructions posted were putting my DX6i into the "switch test" mode.

I found that I could enter calibration mode this way:

1) Turn OFF your Spectrum DX6i.
2) Ensure that "AIL D/R", "FLAP/GYRO", "ELEV D/R", "RUDD D/R" are in 0 position and "GEAR/F MODE", and MIX/TH HOLD is in 1 position.
3) Push both dx6i horizontal trims at the same time to the direction of POWER switch. (Push Left trim to the right and right trim to the left) Hold them so and now turn ON your dx6i.

All other instructions worked perfectly!

All sticks are now centered correctly on the "Monitor" display.
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Old Jan 05, 2014, 08:36 PM
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Joined Aug 2006
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Just wanted to chime in here and say this thread prevented me from sending my DX6i in for service. For some reason, the Elevator channel on mine suddenly had a lot more throw in one direction than the other. I could see it from the Monitor screen on the radio.

Once I recalibrated it's working perfectly now.

Thanks!

-Charles
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Old Jul 28, 2014, 04:06 PM
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Ohio
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I don't see it mentioned here, but should this calibration procedure be done while having a Model selected that has all DEFAULT settings? (Like no Subtrim or Expo or Mix set?)

Or doesn't that matter?
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Old Aug 01, 2014, 07:33 PM
Yes, I know it's upside down.
Sydney, Australia
Joined Dec 2008
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It doesn't matter. It's not about a particular models trim and rate settings. Rather, it is about the transmitter knowing the original position of the sticks before the transmitter takes into account an individual models settings.
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Old Aug 02, 2014, 10:45 AM
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Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harrow View Post
It doesn't matter. It's not about a particular models trim and rate settings. Rather, it is about the transmitter knowing the original position of the sticks before the transmitter takes into account an individual models settings.
Thank you! I proceeded with the assumption this was true, and very carefully lifted off after the calibration. Nothing went sideways, I am happy to report. But doing the calibration did fix the beeping issue of the sticks I mentioned above, where the QX was seeing neutral sticks as presenting some level of input while awaiting the start procedure on the ground.
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Old Aug 06, 2014, 04:10 AM
Yes, I know it's upside down.
Sydney, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoandar View Post
Thank you! I proceeded with the assumption this was true, and very carefully lifted off after the calibration. Nothing went sideways, I am happy to report. But doing the calibration did fix the beeping issue of the sticks I mentioned above, where the QX was seeing neutral sticks as presenting some level of input while awaiting the start procedure on the ground.
That's the same reason I used it. I was having trouble getting some ESC's to initialise.
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Old Aug 06, 2014, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Harrow View Post
That's the same reason I used it. I was having trouble getting some ESC's to initialise.
Speaking of ESCs, perhaps you could clarify something else for me. I've seen some dialogue about this but no one seemed to have an answer at the time. Before I did the calibration, I would see the blue ESC LEDs sometimes flashing amd sometimes solidly glowing. Sometimes one or more would alternate between those 2 states. But since I have done the calibration, all 4 ESC blue LEDs are always quickly flashing for the entire power up cycle.

Does that indicate that I wasn't getting all 4 initialized properly prior to the calibration? I hadn't considered this before now, but I know on some of my other helis a solidly glowing LED means the ESC is initialized, and flashing means it is not.
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Old Aug 07, 2014, 05:29 AM
Yes, I know it's upside down.
Sydney, Australia
Joined Dec 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoandar View Post
Does that indicate that I wasn't getting all 4 initialized properly prior to the calibration? I hadn't considered this before now, but I know on some of my other helis a solidly glowing LED means the ESC is initialized, and flashing means it is not.
Don't remember my ESC's having an LED?
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Old Aug 07, 2014, 11:33 AM
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Ohio
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Originally Posted by Harrow View Post
Don't remember my ESC's having an LED?
Hmm. Maybe I am mistakenly remembering the LED on some RX units, which on my Blade 400, for example, is inside the chassis, behind the ESC. Anyway, just wondering if the flashing vs. solidly lit ESC LEDs that are on the QX are telling a similar (though perhaps inverted) message to the other (probably on the RX) LEDs I recall seeing. Indicating either that they are initialized, or not.
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Old Aug 14, 2014, 04:49 PM
RC Blade
Joined Jun 2014
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How did you change your DX6i to mode 4? I want to do that. I want to know if I can do that before I purchase a DX6i. I have a DX4e that switches to mode 4 easily.
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Old Nov 10, 2014, 12:36 PM
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Joined Nov 2014
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Hi Folks,
I am new to all of this and I'm not sure if mine is a calibration issue, but I can use some advise. I purchased a used DX6i and bound it to my Apprentice which came with a DX5. Yesterday at the field my motor would start on its own with the throttle full down. When I got home I bound it to the DX5 and let it sit for 20 mins. everything was fine, no unexpected startups. Clearly I have a problem with the DX6, I just don't know if it is calibration.
It should also be noted that several weeks ago I installed a backlight panel, this is my first flight since, so I'm not sure if the two are related.
Any help or direction would be appreciated.
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Old Nov 14, 2014, 07:25 AM
RC Blade
Joined Jun 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harrow View Post
Okay, I'm just curious, how does someone end up flying mode 4 to start with???

I always fly my helicopters in mode 4 from the start. Now, I fly collective pitch below in mode 4. To mod the TX to mode 4, you need to switch over 2 wires from two plug connectors. Just get the crimp out of the connector by using a very fine needle. Look here at this website.

http://www.3d-heliforum.de/content/3...-in-20-Minuten!!!


This way will only work if your radio DSM2 I believe. Mine was DSMX, so I just looked closely next to the connector and it will say thr, rud, ail, ele. You have to change the middle wire of the pot for each one. So change the middle wire of rud and ail. Switch them around. You will have to calibrate your TX afterwords. That is what I did.
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