Mini-Review Walkera #38 large tandem coaxial

[Balr14]

I've managed to get the fuselage off, now. Man, what a pain in the ass. Whoever designed the way those wheels attach to the fuselage needs about a 1/2" hole drilled just above his ear.

I now see why my W38 flies a lot like a hot air balloon. My swashplates barely move. It's no wonder I have no real control; especially forward. The servo linkage has lots of flex and at every link the balls are positioned to provide the least movement.

I've also got a fair amount of vibration in the front. I think the blades need balancing. There sure are plenty of them.

[Balr14]

Just for future reference, for anyone else who buys one of these, I moved the linkage balls on the disk that is attached to the servo to the most outer holes, on both servos. I moved the linkage bar on the long lower arms (all 4) to the 6th hole from the end, they were on the 3rd hole). I then readjusted the linkage so all was level or at 90 degrees.

It's much more responsive and precise now, in all directions. Much more than any other coax I've owned. I still don't know how well it will handle wind, but I don't expect much. I don't have any trouble with it hovering, turning and general easy flying in a small basement room (7 x 7). But, I hover a GL450 in that same room, which is a lot harder.

Overall, I'm impressed by it's simplicity and quality (I never thought I'd ever say that about Walkera). It's very solid and quiet. Once you get the fuselage off, it's not bad to work on. There's just a lot more of everything. I'll post a couple naked pictures of her tomorrow.

[Xrayted]

Originally Posted by Balr14

Just for future reference, for anyone else who buys one of these, I moved the linkage balls on the disk that is attached to the servo to the most outer holes, on both servos. I moved the linkage bar on the long lower arms (all 4) to the 6th hole from the end, they were on the 3rd hole). I then readjusted the linkage so all was level or at 90 degrees.

It's much more responsive and precise now, in all directions. Much more than any other coax I've owned. I still don't know how well it will handle wind, but I don't expect much. I don't have any trouble with it hovering, turning and general easy flying in a small basement room (7 x 7). But, I hover a GL450 in that same room, which is a lot harder.

Overall, I'm impressed by it's simplicity and quality (I never thought I'd ever say that about Walkera). It's very solid and quiet. Once you get the fuselage off, it's not bad to work on. There's just a lot more of everything. I'll post a couple naked pictures of her tomorrow.

Glad to hear you like it. Make sure your servo expo is also turned up on the RX or the servo throw will be nothing as well.

[Balr14]

Originally Posted by Xrayted

Glad to hear you like it. Make sure your servo expo is also turned up on the RX or the servo throw will be nothing as well.

I forgot about that. The servo travel did seem rather anemic.

Hmmmm.... we seem to be a fan club of two.

[Jcopter]

I'm Watching!
Jcopter

[Xrayted]

Originally Posted by Jcopter

I'm Watching!
Jcopter

Ahhh....a 38 window shopper Somebody else buy one of these things so Barl14 and I have someone else to talk to!!!

BTW Barl14 I get this random and sudden vibration through the fuselage for no reason. Its almost like one of the rotor mast starts to wobble and a resonace of some sort begins. You can actually see the main rotor shaft no longer spinning as one unit but as a "blur" when this resonance begins and its not constant but rythmic pulses of this vibration. The rotors are solid and straight and blades are balanced and tracking smooth???? You getting this on yours??

[Jcopter]

I will get one when they are back in stock A Raidentech/heli something/Bananna Whatever They have so many names But not available Now.
Jcopter

[Xrayted]

Originally Posted by Jcopter

I will get one when they are back in stock A Raidentech/heli something/Bananna Whatever They have so many names But not available Now.
Jcopter

Cool. X Xeli and and Raidentech are the same company. Not sure about Banana though. X heli has numerous websites under different names and none of them have a good customer service rating at all. You will be fine as long as you get what you asked for the first time.
Ive ordered from them few times and no problem on getting items but they seem to have a bad habit of shipping re bagged used parts that look like they were taken out of the spare parts bin or off someone elses heli. Its happend to me and Ive seen where other have had the same experience with them.
If you want a gauranteed product and service then order from Chinese Jade (the link is in the thread) It will take about 10 days to get if your U.S. and shipping is only 5 bucks

[Jcopter]

I May Have to do that But Raidentech is really close to me and I have had good experience with them And at one time you could will call stuff but no more I buy from them all the time and get product the next day and yes they are all the same Company. I kinda holding out for spare parts. Does it use an all in one Could it be modified for separates? and I was looking also at this other Tandom Using blade CP type components. Are any of the part Blade CX interchaingable?
Jcopter

[Xrayted]

Originally Posted by Jcopter

I May Have to do that But Raidentech is really close to me and I have had good experience with them And at one time you could will call stuff but no more I buy from them all the time and get product the next day and yes they are all the same Company. I kinda holding out for spare parts. Does it use an all in one Could it be modified for separates? and I was looking also at this other Tandom Using blade CP type components. Are any of the part Blade CX interchaingable?
Jcopter

Nothing is interchangeable. This heli is much bigger than any of the other coaxes. It has a RX and gyro in one component and then a seperate ESC mixer on another. You could go seperates I guess But im not familiar with what type of ESC mixer would be required to make it work. It would be quite expensive I imagine to convert it.

[canicrashhere2]

hey everybody i would like to find something to check my batterys voltage before and after flights WHATS THE RIGHT SET UP and i don't want to spend alot of money but i will if i have too.how about lights i read i'm not the only one crashing i mean flying at dusk the wind dies down about then around here anyway, but i have to know which side is which also lighting the nose would be nice.i have gone to glowire . com and they have kits but i know nothing of electricity i thought lights worked by MAGIC to i had to start paying bills for it.this to report 3 gears sets cost 16.68 at miracle mart 17.00 at chinesejade and 23.00 at bananahobby so thats who i went with i just want to see how long it takes the banana people to get my parts to me 6.00 more and their in the USA
well i have to go
CRASH

[Balr14]

Radio Shack sells several nice voltmeters for testing your batteries. Harbor Freight has some as well. You can buy LEDs cheaply and they have very minimal electrical requirements.

[Xrayted]

Originally Posted by canicrashhere2

hey everybody i would like to find something to check my batterys voltage before and after flights WHATS THE RIGHT SET UP and i don't want to spend alot of money but i will if i have too.how about lights i read i'm not the only one crashing i mean flying at dusk the wind dies down about then around here anyway, but i have to know which side is which also lighting the nose would be nice.i have gone to glowire . com and they have kits but i know nothing of electricity i thought lights worked by MAGIC to i had to start paying bills for it.this to report 3 gears sets cost 16.68 at miracle mart 17.00 at chinesejade and 23.00 at bananahobby so thats who i went with i just want to see how long it takes the banana people to get my parts to me 6.00 more and their in the USA
well i have to go
CRASH

As Barl14 said, the cheapest way to light the heli is to see of Radio Shack has something you can set up yourself. If you would rather have "plug and play" you could go with a company called RAM that builds light kits for just about anything out there. Google them or Tower Hobbies sells a lot of their stuff. Its much more costly but ready to go.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?&C=QHG&V=RAM
I use a simple VM I bought at Home Depot but my charger also tells me voltage of each cell. Cheapo LED voltage testers can be found at Deal Extreme or just about any hobby e-tailer.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10787

Good luck

[Balr14]

I've got my W38 handling with much more authority and precision than any other coax heli I've owned. It feels really good. Now to deal with the fuselage mounting.

I have figured out a way to handle the rear wheels. I left them attached to the body and removed the 4 little screws that hold them in place on the frame. Without those screws, the wheels slide off the frame sideways.

I made a small hole in the fuselage inside the wheel (on each side) and drilled a hole through the wheel holder so I can use one screw through the bottom of the fuselage and wheel holder to secure the wheel(s). I stretch a rubber band between the wheel holders just as an added measure.

I am also experiencing some harmonic vibration. The heli is dead quiet and incredibily smooth without the fuselage. So, I can only attribute the harmonic issues to the body mounting. There's certainly a lot of room for improvement there. Both front and rear head openings could have more room and better locating. The mounting around the front wheel is completely inadequate and there's nothing holding the middle. I'm going to play with it and see what I can do to improve it.

[Xrayted]

Originally Posted by Balr14

I've got my W38 handling with much more authority and precision than any other coax heli I've owned. It feels really good. Now to deal with the fuselage mounting.

I have figured out a way to handle the rear wheels. I left them attached to the body and removed the 4 little screws that hold them in place on the frame. Without those screws, the wheels slide off the frame sideways.

I made a small hole in the fuselage inside the wheel (on each side) and drilled a hole through the wheel holder so I can use one screw through the bottom of the fuselage and wheel holder to secure the wheel(s). I stretch a rubber band between the wheel holders just as an added measure.

I am also experiencing some harmonic vibration. The heli is dead quiet and incredibily smooth without the fuselage. So, I can only attribute the harmonic issues to the body mounting. There's certainly a lot of room for improvement there. Both front and rear head openings could have more room and better locating. The mounting around the front wheel is completely inadequate and there's nothing holding the middle. I'm going to play with it and see what I can do to improve it.

Very interested to see what you come up with. Maybe that strange vibration that goes through my fuse from time to time is the harmonic vibration you are describing. Ive never flown it without the canopy on it to see but the heli mechanics themselves are solid, so it must be.

What do think about some light foam fittted into the center section of the chassis to make the fuse fit snugly. It would stop the fuse rattle and absorb the vibes as long as it didnt interfere with the linkages. Maybe somehting fabricated from copper pipe insulation or even the foam used in computer cases. I have plenty in a roll I purchased to make ally cases for all my helis.