Mini-Review Walkera #38 large tandem coaxial

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Originally Posted by Balr14

^^^^
Crap! I wonder if I can build my own 300 size tandom from HBFP parts?

rbinc has been working on one made from two CX2's. He would be a good source of info as to what is needed.

[canicrashhere2]

Sorry about the fire, well your are trying, can't find out unless you try.lets face it even nasa had problems when they started and look who they had working full time for them.some how x-man i can tell you won't give up and if you do come up with your brand of X-COPTERS i will be glad to crash test them for you! HEY TT thanks for the banana info
latter i got to go
CRASH

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Originally Posted by canicrashhere2

Sorry about the fire, well your are trying, can't find out unless you try.lets face it even nasa had problems when they started and look who they had working full time for them.some how x-man i can tell you won't give up and if you do come up with your brand of X-COPTERS i will be glad to crash test them for you! HEY TT thanks for the banana info
latter i got to go
CRASH

I think it may work with a very small pinion to reduce the amp draw....possibly an 8T. I dropped from a stock 12T to a 10 and it was still too much for it.
Its all back together and flying with the stock motors and the 12 T pinions and all is fine so Im done with this one Just going to enjoy it now and stop messing around with it.

[Balr14]

So, it's pretty good with stock motors and better battery? I can only find an ESC and receiver listed as parts for the W38. Doesn't it have a 3 in 1 and gyro?

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Originally Posted by Balr14

So, it's pretty good with stock motors and better battery?

Yeah its fine. It takes about 70% throttle to hover because of the weight so that feels a little strange. You can reduce this by moving the trim to mid but Im afraid to do this and burn out the ESC again if the blades are still moving in a crash. Its just a big slow heli and takes some getting used to, but looks so cool in the air once you get it up about 30 feet and do some slow scale circuits with it. The stock 370 motors get pretty hot in the fuse so Im not sure how long they will last, but I dont fly this one near as much as my other helis. the more I fly it, the more I like it. 5-6 minutes of flight seems to be the norm. You have to be careful when landing as the wheels are pretty close together and a bad landing will cause it to fall on its side with the blades still moving.
I blacked out all the ally today while I had it torn down and I think it looks so much better than all the multicolored stuff that it comes with.

[canicrashhere2]

i lost teeth on both inside gears the ones on the outside shaft wish i would have caught that before i ordered parts, oh well got me wondering about how tight my blades should be in the grips.i tighted them so the gear would spin before they fold useing my hand.too tight what do you all think
crash

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Originally Posted by canicrashhere2

i lost teeth on both inside gears the ones on the outside shaft wish i would have caught that before i ordered parts, oh well got me wondering about how tight my blades should be in the grips.i tighted them so the gear would spin before they fold useing my hand.too tight what do you all think
crash

They should be tight enough that you can move them with a little pressure but not so loose that they will "flop" around under their own weight.
You should instantly kill throttle if it looks like you are going to crash or make blade contact with anything. If the rotors come into contact with anything while under power, the amp draw from the motors will skyrocket and possibly burn out your 4&1 controller.

[Balr14]

Here's a dumb question. How do you get the rear wheels out of the fuselage? They are really in there tight and I'm afraid I'll break them if I try to twist them.

Otherwise, my first impression is that it's quite an unusual bird. It's very stable, but very challenging, at the same time. It's really affected by air movement near the ground, where it gains and loses altitude easily. It will drop like a brick with any little throttle movement. It flys like a large boat. It takes awhile to build up momentum in any direction and it wants to keep going that way. But, it looks cool flying.

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Originally Posted by Balr14

Here's a dumb question. How do you get the rear wheels out of the fuselage? They are really in there tight and I'm afraid I'll break them if I try to twist them.

Otherwise, my first impression is that it's quite an unusual bird. It's very stable, but very challenging, at the same time. It's really affected by air movement near the ground, where it gains and loses altitude easily. It will drop like a brick with any little throttle movement. It flys like a large boat. It takes awhile to build up momentum in any direction and it wants to keep going that way. But, it looks cool flying.

Now you see what I mean!! Its just......well, different. It takes some getting used to and can get away from you indoors because of the altitude "pulsing" it will do. I found that part of this is the gyro changing the rotor RPM as it detects yaw (caused by its own rotorwash). When the RPM increases or decreases on this heavy bird the result is lift or falling without you changing the throttle input. It can be a challengs just to keep it level sometimes in a low hover.
The wheels are snap locked into the frame and the only way I could get mine out were to stick a screwdriver in from the top and pry it out. The plastic is soft and I broke one. Once the sqeeze lock tabs go into the mounts you no longer have access to them to reverse the proccess.
I assume your doing this to get the canopy off so what I have done since is to just notch or slit the fuselage at the wheels to allow me to slip it on or off over the wheels. You will want to do this...trust me! Made my life much easier.
Another suggestion I have for you is to use a Sharpie marker and mark top dead center on you RX pots if its trimmed ok. Walkera RX's have no end points and you can be adjusting + and may cross over into the - part of the pot as they just go in circles and start over. You can get very lost in the adjustments so marking them allows me to always go back to where I was if needed. One of them changes the servo throw and I had to make it give me max throw in order for the cyclic trim on the TX to have any effect.

God luck

[Balr14]

I wonder if a couple Xtreme Lama V4 LED flybars would work on the W38?

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Originally Posted by Balr14

I wonder if a couple Xtreme Lama V4 LED flybars would work on the W38?

The flybars seem to be the only interchangeable part on this heli with other coaxials. They look pretty much the same as my CX2 spares but Im not sure about the ball link size.
Ive never used those LED flybars before so Im not sure if they are prone to TBE issues or not?? Would be interesting though

[Balr14]

You can buy just the ends with the LEDS in them. I was thinking blue LEDs in the front flybar and red in the rear flybar would be pretty cool for flying at dusk.

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Originally Posted by Balr14

You can buy just the ends with the LEDS in them. I was thinking blue LEDs in the front flybar and red in the rear flybar would be pretty cool for flying at dusk.

That would be pretty sweet. I was flying mine last night at dusk over at a freinds house and I lost my depth perception with the heli against a small tree. I dropped it from about 8 feet to avoid having a breeze take me into the tree but my friend says I was nowhere near it! Once it starts to get to that time of day everything just blends in together even more than usual.
I only snapped off the front wheel so no real damage though.Even though this thing has some wight to it,the wind is still a huge pain! Even the slightest breeze flying last night would take ALL cyclic control away from me and make me fight to keep it in one place.
Still looks so cool in the air though

[treetek]

where can I buy these at?

TT

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Originally Posted by treetek

where can I buy these at?

TT

I purchased mine from Chinese Jade whose link is already posted a few times in this thread

Banana Hobby now has them as well and is a U.S. based supplier