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Old Jun 09, 2010, 05:33 AM
1915 Schooner Mariette
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Sydney, NSW, Australia
Joined Feb 2008
243 Posts
Wow Dan - that is a work of genius !! It would seem to solve everyone's launching issues in one package - frontwards / backwards / side on / ramp / pontoon, etc !!

You could even replace the main "transverse wheels" with those trolley sets of 3 wheels mounted on a rotating triangle so that you could take the boat up & down stairs with ease !!

Another thought I had was to replace your upper set of wheels on the handle with a plate or shoe which would sit flat on the top edge of the pontoon just after you rolled the main wheels over the edge. This shoe could be mounted on a set of simple slides & be driven up and down the handle by means of a shuttle running on a rotating threaded rod. Stability would be maintained by the main transverse wheels running down the face of the pontoon, & the pilot holding onto the handle.

Lots of food for thought - thanks again !

Kind Regards,

Peter D.
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Old Sep 09, 2010, 10:23 PM
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Mark Steele

Peter - wondering whether you have launched your MARIETTE and have on the water images to share or whether the build is still continuing ? Thanks
Mark
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 08:46 AM
1915 Schooner Mariette
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Sydney, NSW, Australia
Joined Feb 2008
243 Posts
Hi Mark,

Sorry to report that has been no launching as yet. With one thing & another, building time has been quite limited, but I have managed to get about 2/3 of the way through the deck planking.

This is a ridiculously time consuming job ! The planks are 4mm x 1mm limewood, & each edge of each port/starboard pair has to be planed down a little, sanded, marked with a black permanent felt-tip pen, cut into scale 20' lengths & then joggled into the king plank fore & aft. Its getting like "basket weaving 101" by a blind man !!

As you can see in the pics, the waterways are done & painted satin cream, scuppers are done, & the outer edging planks are ready to be glued in. The curved parts of these edging planks at the bow & stern were a real pain - I ended up cutting them out of sheet balsa, then saturating them with CA to toughen them up. Some test bits indicate that they sand back just like the other limewood planks, & look very similar when coated with clear matt polyester.

I am trying to make the 2 big hatches invisible - the outer edges are ok as they just follow the caulking line on the curves of the deck planking, but the cross-deck join is tricky (hence the plastic film at the join to avoid accidentally gluing the hatches to the main deck) !!

Once I get the main deck area planked, I then have to try to replicate the curved deck planking on the seats & floor of the cockpit - now that will be fun !

Hopefully, progress will pick up shortly & I'll be able to do some more frequent updates.

PS : The planking looks a bit scrappy in the pics, but should improve after sanding back & polyester finish.

Kind Regards,

Peter D.
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Last edited by delaneyp; Sep 13, 2010 at 08:55 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 09:21 AM
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Raleigh NC
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very nice planking, consider a try at scraping instead of sanding, a standard single edged razor blade held perpendicular to the deck as drawn towards you..leaves no fuzz..
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Old Sep 19, 2010, 12:48 PM
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how did you made the black lines between the planks on the deck ?
I am bussy with the "rainbow" scale 1: 19, and now I must plank the deck like yours.
my site: http://members.quicknet.nl/js.kraak/Rainbow-1.html
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Old Sep 20, 2010, 07:49 AM
1915 Schooner Mariette
delaneyp's Avatar
Sydney, NSW, Australia
Joined Feb 2008
243 Posts
Jankraak, for the deck planking, I used 4mm wide x 1mm thick limewood timber strips. Both edges of 2 planks together were sanded back using 400 grit sandpaper (to ensure that each pair of port & starboard planks were identical in width, & to get a very smooth edge).

I then ran a black felt-tip "permanent marker pen" along the edges of the planks. This dries very quickly, doesn't smudge when you sand across the deck surface, & provides a quite defined black line when the deck is finished with matt clear polyester.

The lines are not really thick enough to exactly replicate the scale thickness of the real caulking, but seem to look ok on a model.

BTW - Congratulations on your beautiful model of Rainbow - it is simply stunning !!

Kind Regards,

Peter D.
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Old Sep 26, 2010, 05:53 AM
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Great ship!

A friend of mine and me are going to build schooners from fibreglass hulls we got, and your thread has provided us with a wealth of information. Thanks for all the hard work and good luck for your further efforts!
BTW, it's going to be a Baltimore clipper and a knockabout schooner (like the Arctic schooner Bowdoin).
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Old Sep 26, 2010, 07:39 AM
1915 Schooner Mariette
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Sydney, NSW, Australia
Joined Feb 2008
243 Posts
Taran, thanks for the compliments - its good to know that someone has learned something from my mistakes !!

Great choices for your builds, & even better if you can start with fibreglass hulls - more gain, less pain !!

It would be great if you could start your own thread on this Forum so that we can all enjoy the ride !

Kind Regards,

Peter D.
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 04:58 PM
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We will surely try and contribute to this great forum.
While my friend Erhard has set his heart on the "Pride", I am still torn between two and a half options: Either building my boat (1.25m long) to the same scale as his (1/32), which would make it something like one of the big 130ft Gloucestermen, or going to a 1/15 or 1/16 scale and settling for sth like the Bowdoin, a slightly shortened Lettie G.Howard or, best fit of all, the schooner Alcyone.
Congratulations to Jankraak as well. Awesome!
I am just deveoping some ideas for the sail steering. We want to try an endless chain to fix the sheets to. And as for the overlapping headsails - I think I have an idea how to do it with just one servo.
I'll make a drawing soon.
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Old Sep 28, 2010, 06:01 AM
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Name: flying jib 2.jpg
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Description: one servo only to manage a flying jib
I hope this is self-explanatory...
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Old Sep 29, 2010, 07:35 AM
1915 Schooner Mariette
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Sydney, NSW, Australia
Joined Feb 2008
243 Posts
Taran, that is an incredibly clever idea ! I see 2 giant leaps forward, when compared with other systems that I have seen (& am using) :

1. The "self-locking" with no load on the servo (when the sail sheet load is at its maximum) is brilliant !!

2. The fact that in tacking, the leeward sheet is fully released before the other sheet is taken in - the Holy Grail for tacking jibs !

The only improvement that I can think of would be to fit small "V-belt" type pulley wheel to the end of the servo arm - this might help with aligning the servo arm with the lever arms, & also reduce friction ?

Fantastic idea mate !

Kind Regards,

Peter D.
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Old Sep 29, 2010, 08:13 AM
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Thanks for your compliments!
Some roller or notched wheel at the end of the servo arm - that would certainly help, thanks!
Also, some kind of stop in the lever arms so that the servo arm cannot go beyond the 90 position would be a further development.
The only problem that might occur is space. For 12cm of sheet movement the assembly would probably have to be 12-15cm wide and almost as long. These measurements refer to the space needed for lever movement. The unit itself would be 12-15cm long and perhaps 5-6cm wide. So retrofitting a model through a hatch should be possible, but you need sufficient clearance for the lever arm movement.
Another point: you'll need a fairly strong servo. If you have a 12kg servo, only one kg pull will be available at the end of the sheet.
A point in favor: You don't need a special servo whose arms travel in an arc of 180. 90 is sufficient. Strong, reliable servos of this kind are often used in model cars (combustion engine).
I'm glad you like the idea. First I thought about using cams (excenters) that pay out and pull in the sheets at different ratios - something like the cams in compound bows. Possible, but difficult to make and difficult to keep the sheet in the groove when the line is slack.
Then I thought about a servo that just pushes against either the starboard or the port sheet, like a guitarist pushing down strings. But again slack sheets might be a problem.
So, doodling on a piece of paper finally produced this, and the coffee break at work (don't rat on me) was just long enough to put my idea into Paint.
I'm sure that as soon as sb tries to build it, further improvements will suggest themselves. But I'm glad and not a little proud that you agree that this principle will work.

Edit:
BTW: If you have a servo whose arm only travels 60 or 70, no problem. Just change the geometry of the levers a little, so that again you have 90 between servo arm and lever at the end point.
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Last edited by Taran; Sep 29, 2010 at 08:19 AM. Reason: One more idea:
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Old Sep 30, 2010, 10:21 AM
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http://www.woodenboat.com/wbstore/in...roducts_id=679
There is an article on the Mariette in that issue - do you know it?
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Old Oct 01, 2010, 08:51 AM
1915 Schooner Mariette
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Sydney, NSW, Australia
Joined Feb 2008
243 Posts
Taran, thanks for the link to the Wooden Boat article - I have just ordered a copy !

I see what you mean about the loss of torque through the mechanism & the space restrictions. My guess is that these probably would only become a big issue if you were trying to control a big genoa with a lot of overlap (hence long sheet pulls). In older schooners, it seems that the flying jibs are generally quite small & have very little overlap - so maybe not such a problem ?

I have often thought that it would be nice to have a software program which allowed you to play with simple animated lever/pulley setups so that you could easily see lever angles & pulley-rope runs. If I find one, I'll let you know !

Kind Regards,

Peter D.
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Old Nov 03, 2010, 07:38 AM
1915 Schooner Mariette
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Sydney, NSW, Australia
Joined Feb 2008
243 Posts
Well Shipmates, I was beginning to think that the day would never come - but it finally has - I have finished planking the deck !!!

I worked out that there were 644 separate pieces of planking required to finish with the following :

- Planks are 4mm wide by 1mm thick limewood (full scale width is 2 3/4")

- Butt joints every 18-20 ft (full scale) as I had been told that 20' was about the max that was available in the day.

- Butt joints are arranged so that they are 7 planks apart when looking across the deck beams.

- All planks that met the centre king-plank have been joggled in (what a PITA - I have gone through 2 packs of Exacto blades & have upgraded by my glasses to the next magnifying level !!)

- Unfortunately, I could not get all the timber I needed in 4mm strips - half was 4mm & the rest was 5mm. This meant that I had to plane down the 5mm stock to 4mm - a tedious task when done one x 1m length at a time !

- Caulking was simulated by way of sanding down the plank edges with 400 grit, then running a black permanent marker pen along the edges. Whilst this approach does not give a true scale thickness to the caulking, it seems to do the job of delineating the planks, & has the advantage that it doesn't smudge when sanding or applying the matt polyester clear coat.

The following pics show the deck before & after the first coat of polyester clear coat. Two more coats & its done. Then I can get on with building the deckhouses, etc. These will mostly be made from 2mm ply, then planked over with veneer strips. The original boat had teak deckhouses, but I can not find a teak veneer that is very fine-grained (& teak may have some problems with its waxy nature in terms of glue adhesion). I can source some very fine-grain mahogany, so it may have to do unless anyone can suggest an alternative that gives that rich gold colour of teak.

Kind Regards,

Peter D.
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