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Old Jul 22, 2008, 06:52 AM
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Ahhh heck..........come on AL ........you got a job and make the big $$ ....that would look NICE sitting in your ME109
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 06:54 AM
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Good ole Smithsburg, MD
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I bet Lucien over at innov8tive would be happy to provide an outrunner with a longer shaft. My 4025-XX has a longer shaft from the factory as depicted here:



I'm sure if you contact him he'll bend 8 ways to Sunday to help. I know they are coming out with a bigger size as well...

Cheers,
Steve
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 08:55 AM
Fly allot, Crash allot, next?
United States, CA, Corona
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Steve has a good point, any motor that has the shaft sticking out both ends can be easily changed to have the shaft stick out further from one end.

Coastwatcher,

Since I'm still working tells the story, I don't have enough to quit yet. I'm still saving those pennies toward retirement, but, I seem to be falling further behind. I failed the Sears Roebuck psychololgy test 48 years ago, so I can't get a part time job there, when I retire.

Only big spenders like you and kahlog can afford those Hacker inrunners, so lead the way old buddy.

Al
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 09:12 AM
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Ok well, here is my solution as of now. Since it appears the front of the nose is the thickest wood and would appear to be a much better load bearer......I will see about attaching my motor mount as shown in the pics. The white boxes are the nose of the plane(the wood)
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 11:50 AM
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That looks like it'll work. I would cut off the original motor mount plate to the black line (or only what's neccessary) and add more ply connecting the sidewalls back to the e-firewall indicated by the red arrows. Also, add more lite ply or at least epoxy around the rest of the e-firewall.
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 12:33 PM
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close to what I was thinking, but more so like this. I would only remove the amount of that motor tray as necessary(plus a little extra to get tools and such in there to tighten the bolts, etc).

I would still add some reinforcing wood along the sides of the fuse attached to the wood plate for additional strength...or better yet some carbon fiber strips. I think it'll work fine, but wont know how much of that tray will need to go until i have the plane.
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 12:38 PM
Fly allot, Crash allot, next?
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I'm willing to bet that there is no thrust built into the firewall or the nose piece. The mounting rails tell the tale, it appears that the nitro motor can be twisted as desired to get the proper thrust.

So, some washers will have to be added to the bolts in order to obtain down and right thrust.

Let's all worry ourselves to sleep over this, not.

Like I told Coastwatcher in an PM, we are nitro converters to electric, most of us have done many conversions, we can overcome almost anything. If the darn thing can be powered by nitro, then we can convert it with no problem.

Thanks drksyd for the graphics, the solution is there. We just need long shaft motors for your approach.

My approach is to cut out the nitro rails all together, use the exiting firwall for radial mounting of the motor, drill out the hole in the nose piece so that the front part of the adaptor and propeller backing plate can stick through. If support is needed I will add ply to the firewall and make a three sided box to surround the motor and tie the firewall to the nose piece. Wala, it's that easy.

Al
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 01:49 PM
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Al
I see what you're saying. All you would need to do is shim the motor mount if the firewall doesn't have right and down thrust. You wouldn't need to reinforce anything as the fuse ahead of the firewall is now just a once piece cowl.
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 03:04 PM
Fly allot, Crash allot, next?
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Thanks for graphics drksyd, you got it perfect.

Al
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 03:11 PM
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DANG IT all...I'm losing tons of sleep over this. ....... It appears in the pic that the slot in the ply tray is angled /has thrust the right direction. I'm betting there is a slope angle down a hair too.

Kahloq,
that looks like it'll work just peachy. I was actually planning on the same trimming as you drew in that slotted ply to center my motor up. I might add a few corner ply pieces , some guerilla glue and that should do her.

Since its SHOW and Tell ........HEE HEEE HEEE


I have 1/2 nylon stand offs to allow air to move around the motor , a bit of damping, too.

This is most likely the motor I'll use (EFLITE 160) on 9S lipo.......the Eflite 110 does have the power for scale flight , but not the power to turn a 20-22in three blade prop or run 90mph .
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 03:39 PM
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Fred
What I did with my Axi mounts was just drill holes between the mounting points to let air through. In this case, you could leave out the spacers which will give you more clearance through the e-firewall. You'll need as much as possible to make sure the spinner back plate won't hit the e-firewall with the down and right thrust factored in.
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 05:06 PM
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yeah ,I see what your saying Cliff. I guess only steve can tell us for sure if the wall behind the spinner has its thrust angles built in. Its going to be close for sure . I hope I can use the spacers. It not thats alot more room I have to adjust the motor . I also have thinner spacers available to too. Yea I agree I'll try to have at least 1/8 clearance all the way around for sure. The clearance on my Spitfire is like paper thin in spots.

Another point to think about.......with a FLAT backplate spinner your ok, or stock , or trueturn type would be ok. I'm afraid with a ZINGER style ( which they don't make a 109 style anyway ) with the recessed style back plate I wouldn't have the clearance.
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 05:42 PM
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Have any of you guys ran the Calc numbers yet? I posted the question of a motor combo over in the scorpion thread to see what Lucien had and .......
This is going to be an interesting one. It's quite heavy for its wing area (I estimate stall at nearly 30 mph without flaps - good thing the model has them, you will need them!). This model will need at least a 70 mph pitch speed to fly well, and 80 mph would be better. The combination of the rather hefty weight and the rather high pitch speed is going to demand a LOT of power - after playing with WebOCalc a little, I'd say 1800 W - 2000 W is about the minimum worth considering, and more would be better.

The huge power requirement makes A123's not very attractive - I think you'd need a 10S2P A123 pack to meet the power requirements and provide reasonable flight duration, and that would mean carrying some 50 oz worth of battery. Three pounds of battery weight is not going to help any with the already-high wing loading.

I'll be interested to see what suggestions Lucien comes up with!

-Flieslikeabeagle

Flieslikeabeagle wrote the Webocalc program so I trust his judgement. This is going to be a tough one fellas...

Cheers,
Steve
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 06:15 PM
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Well...the turnigy motor I've got is already rated at 1900 watts and its been pushed to over 2400 watts on a 12s setup by some ppl. I think Im good.

Now looking at everyones suggestion and considering weight, I think I will try Coastwatcher's mounting method first as my motor does have that X brace and would eliminate the little bit of weight the atlas motor mount would take up. However, if need be I can still do it how I depicted as well if I cant get the shaft far enough forward.
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 08:23 PM
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Oh Steve., DUDE!! never fear, you'll LOVE it !!! LOL , it won't be a feather weight. true...but it still will be light years away from those things RC guys flew in the 60-70-80 's , they were tanks . .......it will be no worst than my KMP 109. Which flys nice . Matter of fact it will probally have at least the sq wing area and should be 1-3 lbs lighter than the KMP . Landing speed is approx. 15 mph with flaps down , the KMP cruises about est 35-50 very nice , I'm TOO CHICKEN to test the all out speed .

With a ME 109 if it stays true to form will have a TOUCHY CG placement. No horseshoes and handgranades here. The KMP has a fine line between sweet and crash city.

Boy this is going be FUN FUN FUN ( oh yea).............. this one should be a sporting challenge
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