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Old Sep 02, 2008, 03:04 AM
Rush
Joined May 2007
329 Posts
I now have a HET 6904, 2w-20, 72amp esc on the F4. Very big improvement over the stock setup and she is now fast! no videos of it flying but everyone that watched it was pleased at how fast it was going. Peak power at 935 Watts at 65 amps which is stretching the motor limits and esc. Settled down to 800 watts after a bit when the lipos had dropped down. But still fast enough for me.

The HET drive kit was a direct drop in. I only had to make a new hole in the top hatch for motor wires as i couldnt run it through the original access hole.

Flew on a Rhino 4S1P setup and i know have been able to modify the battery compartment to fit 4s2P 2350 Rhino Lipos from HC, or 4S1P FP 3700's or 4250 evolites. CG moved forward by and inch or so but i believe still flyable but will need to watch trims when i take her up on 4S2P.

The only problem i have now is that the ESC is cutting out. On the maiden it cut outin 2 mins of flight time and i was lucky enought to land the F4 with minimal damage. Just broke the nose gear.

I am not sure if this is due to ESC settings or due to Overtemp cutoff of the Tsunami 75amp ESC. I assumed the ESC was plug n play and did not require any programming. I ran a few static tests today with it using only mid throttle range, and after a minute or so, the esc would cut out. Does anyone have any idea why the ESC would cutout only after 1-2 mins? When i close the throttle, the esc will start-up again. Does anyone have an idea or do i need to program the esc?

Appreciate your inputs... lovely bird now. Flies as it should and beautiful in the air. Replace the stock servos... they're definitely not strong enough....
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Old Sep 02, 2008, 06:00 AM
Rush
Joined May 2007
329 Posts
ESC fixed i think... i cut away shrink wrap around the esc being exposing the board to more airflow. i also cut away at the metal plate/heat sink exposing it to air as well. This seems to have solved the problem.

Those Rhino Lipos are a bit of a shock. they can give 60amp at burst, 935 watts peak and hod better voltage than my flight powers. My 25C FP 3700 and Evolite 4250 packs which have around 40 cycles cant match these burst and contrinuous current draws that the Rhino Lipos have. What gives? Thought FP packs were superior to the Rhino/Zippys as they were certainly way more expensive than them....

I havnt cycled all the zippy packs i now have but power wise, they are better than FPs and value wise, far far better and they hold voltage better.... go figure
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Old Sep 02, 2008, 03:48 PM
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Miami,FL
Joined Jun 2007
763 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bunggorb
I now have a HET 6904, 2w-20, 72amp esc on the F4. Very big improvement over the stock setup and she is now fast! no videos of it flying but everyone that watched it was pleased at how fast it was going. Peak power at 935 Watts at 65 amps which is stretching the motor limits and esc. Settled down to 800 watts after a bit when the lipos had dropped down. But still fast enough for me.

The HET drive kit was a direct drop in. I only had to make a new hole in the top hatch for motor wires as i couldnt run it through the original access hole.

Flew on a Rhino 4S1P setup and i know have been able to modify the battery compartment to fit 4s2P 2350 Rhino Lipos from HC, or 4S1P FP 3700's or 4250 evolites. CG moved forward by and inch or so but i believe still flyable but will need to watch trims when i take her up on 4S2P.

The only problem i have now is that the ESC is cutting out. On the maiden it cut outin 2 mins of flight time and i was lucky enought to land the F4 with minimal damage. Just broke the nose gear.

I am not sure if this is due to ESC settings or due to Overtemp cutoff of the Tsunami 75amp ESC. I assumed the ESC was plug n play and did not require any programming. I ran a few static tests today with it using only mid throttle range, and after a minute or so, the esc would cut out. Does anyone have any idea why the ESC would cutout only after 1-2 mins? When i close the throttle, the esc will start-up again. Does anyone have an idea or do i need to program the esc?

Appreciate your inputs... lovely bird now. Flies as it should and beautiful in the air. Replace the stock servos... they're definitely not strong enough....


Are you using bullet connectors between the motor and ESC? Try soldering the 3 motor to ESC wires. Had that happen on a 40A setup and soldering the wires fixed the problem.
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Old Sep 02, 2008, 08:25 PM
Amped UP!
Saint Cloud FL
Joined Jan 2007
705 Posts
Need to check your LVC. The cut off point might be set too high, the controller see's this as low voltage and cuts off. I say this since you indicated that cycling the throttle turns the motor back on. In the event of over-heat it would take a while to reset.......just my .02 worth.
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Old Sep 03, 2008, 01:35 AM
Rush
Joined May 2007
329 Posts
I cut away the heat shrink around the Tsunami 72amp esc. This seems to have solved the problem as on static test runs, this seems to have solved the issue of the power cutting out.

The tsunami ESCs are a bit of a pain as they cant be stick programmed. I need to buy that stupid USB adaptor to be able to program it. The drive kit is preprogrammed for 4S with the 2w20 motor. I got the 72 amp esc version just so that i had extra capacity to avoid thermal cutoff, but apparently, it wasnt enough.

I'll try to get a video of the phantom this week flying on 4s2p.

Regards & Thanks
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Old Sep 08, 2008, 11:48 AM
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gtanoira's Avatar
Florida
Joined Aug 2008
98 Posts
hi bunggorb,

I am having the same problem as you with a Tsunami 72A esc mounted in HET F-18. The rest of the power package is the same (6904 fan with 2W-20 motor).

Did cutting out the heat shrink solved the problem?
I suspect that my esc is overheating because it gets really hot in a few seconds although I am just running around 45A at full throttle on a 72A rated esc.

I've done some bench measures and minimum cell voltage during the cut-offs was 3.7V per cell so I don't think it is an LVC issue, although I cannot confirm as I don't have the PC cable to check the esc configuration.
BTW, does anyone has the schematics of the tsunami ESC-to-PC cable?

thanks,
Gaston
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Old Sep 08, 2008, 11:52 AM
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Formerly Denver. Now West Bend, WI
Joined Dec 2005
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Are you guys running a separate switching BEC? I had to with my Tsunami as its BEC can't handle the heat.
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Old Sep 08, 2008, 12:18 PM
Rush
Joined May 2007
329 Posts
Yup, running separate UBECS as i dont like linear becs.

Cutting away the heat shrink cools the esc down more than before but I still have ESC cut offs in flight but not as much as i used to. I have also managed my flights with less WOT bursts in order to keep esc temperature down. Note that my esc is not directly in the airflow. I can also hold the esc after use so i dont think it gets as hot as it could and i'm drawing about 60A bursts, 900+ Watts on my F4. I am now flying it WOT, 50% then glider mode to cool the ESC down but this is not my preferred way to fly!

If LVC is set at 3.7V then this is to high. I would prefer LVC to be about 3.3V and not cut off. I would rather it is set on reduced power if it hits 3.1V/cell.

Does anyone know the stock program settings of the tsunami 72A ESC?

I'd hate to have to buy that $(#@@! programming cable. Stick programming works fine for the most part. less hardware to bring to the filed as well!

The only other option left is to cut open the F4, relocate the esc directly in the airflow i think. but its a bitch as its an arf kit version....
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Old Sep 08, 2008, 12:33 PM
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Formerly Denver. Now West Bend, WI
Joined Dec 2005
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That is a bummer. Looks like you need to pick up one of the programming cables to make sure the LVC is set to a lower voltage.
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Old Sep 08, 2008, 12:50 PM
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gtanoira's Avatar
Florida
Joined Aug 2008
98 Posts
bad news. I cut out the heat shrink and put the esc on the air flow and it still cuts out after only 30s of applying power with maximum current of 45A

I think my ESC is busted and now that I've cut out the shrink I won't be able to return it

I hear recommendations of ESC + BEC or ESC with onboard switching BEC. What 60A ESC would you guys recommend?

thanks!
Gaston
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Old Sep 08, 2008, 01:00 PM
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Joined May 2006
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Any of the Hobbywing ESCs sold under various brand names:

Pentium, Turnigy, ThunderPower, etc.
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Old Sep 09, 2008, 07:08 AM
Rush
Joined May 2007
329 Posts
If you can find someone with a programming cable, might be good to check the settings. I think it might be the LVC setting of the esc is to high. I will on average drop a lipo voltage below 3.3V on WOT for extended periods of WOT. This is on normal flyouts with low speed passess, vedrticals, etc... which is common enough for jets.

I have asked HET what the stock settings are on the 72amp esc but no reply from them... Ihope this isnt normal customer service from HET.... if it is i'm switching to WEMO
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Old Sep 09, 2008, 10:58 AM
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Florida
Joined Aug 2008
98 Posts
I don't think is a LVC issue. I am pretty much convinced now that the ESC is busted. Yesterday I noticed that it gets hot just by plugging the battery with only the receiver connected to it. no motor connection...

HET customer service is really bad so I bit the bullet and ordered a Turnigy 60A which includes a 3A switching UBEC for less than $50.
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Old Sep 09, 2008, 11:02 AM
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Formerly Denver. Now West Bend, WI
Joined Dec 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtanoira
I don't think is a LVC issue. I am pretty much convinced now that the ESC is busted. Yesterday I noticed that it gets hot just by plugging the battery with only the receiver connected to it. no motor connection...

HET customer service is really bad so I bit the bullet and ordered a Turnigy 60A which includes a 3A switching UBEC for less than $50.
Where are you ordering the Turnigy from?
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Old Sep 09, 2008, 11:28 AM
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Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyDuc
Where are you ordering the Turnigy from?
hobbycity.com
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