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Old Jul 17, 2008, 07:04 PM
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New Product
LEGEND MODEL BOATS 1950 Jersey Speed Skiff

I thought I would post some information on the next model release from Legend Model Boats, the 1950 Jersey Speed Skiff. The kit as with all the Legend model boat kits, is an all wood kit with every thing included except the power and radio system. It will be a 1/6 th scale model of the 16 foot JS netting a model of 32” in length and a 12 3/4” beam. This model is built as a true lap strake hull with mold frames and then bass wood ribs added after the hull is rolled over. The plans and lines for the model were taken from updated plans for APBA class racing in the 1950’s from original drawings of Harold “PAPPY” Seaman. As with many of the skiffs produced in the early years and even today, the model will have interior seating in both cockpits for pleasure use.

Since I am nearing completion of the prototype model I will be posting in the coming days photos of the build for everyone to get a look see at the model from start to finish. For now I am posting the full size 3 view drawing that will be included in the kit.
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Old Jul 17, 2008, 07:21 PM
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looking forward to seeing how she looks!
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Old Jul 17, 2008, 07:40 PM
Veni, Vidi, Feci
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Nice!
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Old Jul 17, 2008, 07:57 PM
Grumpa Tom
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I like it a lot! Get Eddie Hansen to make a couple driver figures for it, and also some of his killer trim tabs.
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Old Jul 18, 2008, 06:12 AM
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1/6th you say! I have a few GI JOE guys from the old days that would be perfect, I could run it with my Sea Skiff as they would both be 1/6th scale and lap strake. Oh boy gotta make some room for a new kit.
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Old Jul 18, 2008, 09:03 AM
Grumpa Tom
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Oh yeah, I forgot about all the 1/6 dolls available. Wow, that opens lots of possibilities!
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Old Jul 19, 2008, 10:29 PM
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Thought I would start the build on the Jersey Speed Skiff and give everyone a first hand view of the construction of the kit. All the mold frames in the kit will be laser cut lite plywood and will remain in the boat as with the original as front and rear engine compartment bulkheads. The frames forward and aft of the bulkheads are the deck frames as with the original and will also remain in the finished hull. The keel and stem post assembly is the only variation from the original speed skiff build, but makes easy work of installing the running hardware in the model.
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Old Jul 19, 2008, 10:44 PM
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Next comes the assembly of the frames into their respective slots in the keel and spotted upside down on the building board. Once everything is squared up to the keel the feet on the frames are glued down to the building board to lock everything in place. Once the frame work is secured the next step was installing the chine battens in their slots in the frames from the stem post to the transom.
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Old Jul 19, 2008, 11:07 PM
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Before continuing on , time must be taken to fair the bottom of the hull by placing a straight edge across each of the frames to make sure that the bottom of the hull is completely flat from chine to chine. This is a must not only in the model but in the real thing. APBA rules state that there can be not concave area on the hull bottom to trap air.
Once the hull bottom has be faired, the laser cut lite plywood bottom skin can be glued in place. This is when a good number of clamps and weights comes into play. Once the bottom skin glue has set up trimming and sanding the edges of the bottom flush with the chine battens will get you ready to start planking the sides of the hull.
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Old Jul 19, 2008, 11:38 PM
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Looking great! I thought I saw a flat bottom in your drawings! Interesting!
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Old Jul 20, 2008, 12:01 AM
Grumpa Tom
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Did you pre-mark the frames? It looks like it. Is that for the side planking?
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Old Jul 20, 2008, 11:05 AM
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frankg-Back in the 50's when I was running APBA stock A&B utilities, SidCraft, I remember stories of guys storing their boats over the winter with a plank running lenghtwise under them in hope of inducing a slight tunnel. I doubt it worked. Sid and Mickey built pretty solid boats. Ah, to do that again.
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Old Jul 20, 2008, 11:46 AM
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KMOT- Good eyes. Yes the frames will be laser marked for the edge of the laser cut planking to be glued. We are doing our very best to insure that anyone who can read the directions will be able to complete our kit builds.
420TEE- I know of what you are talking about. They were trying all kinds of tricks with the hull bottoms to try and gain an advantage. Another trick was not to rivet the planking thru to the ribs on some of the ribs so that after inspection they would tap in wood wedges between the ribs and the planking to get a little more rocker in the bottom. The APBA has done a pretty good job of nailing the cheaters.
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Old Jul 20, 2008, 12:17 PM
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The stem post and frames are already laser marked where the edges of the planks will be glued in place. We will be using this procedure in all future models of lap strake hull builds. Unlike the Lyman where we gave the customer paper templates to transfer the plank marks. We will no longer leave anything to chance with our model kits, moving to try to insure the customer a satisfactory build. We must shape the stem post to conform to the planking when we glue the planking in place. Starting with the first plank at Frame #6, place the mark on the plank on Frame #6 and the bottom edge of the plank on the first mark on the frame. Going forward with the plank gluing the planks to the frames as we go, making sure that the bottom edge of the plank in on the first plank mark of every frame. Once the plank is glued in place at the stem post it must be trimmed and conform to the stem post on the oppsite side to accept the left side planking which will over lap the plank just installed.
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Old Jul 20, 2008, 12:59 PM
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The first plank on the left side of the hull is positioned and glued in place exactly as the plank was done on the right side, with the exception that the left plank will over lap the right plank at the stem post. Note, that the first two planks are over size in width so the excess with is sure to completely over lap the bottom sheeting. Once the left plank is completely glued in place trim the plank at the stem post so it is flush with the right side plank face. Then can sand the first planks over lap of the bottom skin planking flush with the bottom skin face.
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