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Old Jan 31, 2009, 11:54 AM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
United States, TX, Weatherford
Joined Nov 2002
7,844 Posts
My stab's a bit wobbly. My DB-9 seemed to fit perfectly. I dodged a bullet having flown mine a couple of times with a bad servo, but that's replaced. The wind outside is blowing about 18 to 25 so trim flights are out for today. i didn't want to look at tomorrow's forecast, yet, for fear of having severe depression all day......

Jack
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 12:41 PM
Win=span\massXpractice+lu ck
webbsolution's Avatar
Joined Jul 2007
3,091 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrdiaz30
I noticed that my elevator is a little "wobbly" once mounted to the fuse. Anyone else have this?

Rick
Mine is not "tight" either. Check to see where the slop is coming from. IF its the carbon rod then you can build up a wax layer and snug it up. I used candle wax on my shadow for this.
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 12:56 PM
Win=span\massXpractice+lu ck
webbsolution's Avatar
Joined Jul 2007
3,091 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClayH
I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one having issues with the DB9 connector on this plane.

CH

Yup I had to grind the heck out of mine to get it to fit without impacting the saddle fit. When I was done with my Xplorer I basically had the fuse side of the DB 9 held down with one screw that was also dremelled down a bit to lower the profile. The connector is solid and the wing sadlle looks like a good fit.

I am in the process of designing a totally different wiring harness that should drop at least an 1 ounce off your TD or F3x model, allow for way easier routing in the wing, be naturally protected against the contact with carbon inside the wing electrically and will be way easier to solder up without the opportunity of a mistake I came up with this idea during the build of my Xplorer ....stand by on this...

DW
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 01:24 PM
WINS - Winch In Nose Sailplane
jaizon's Avatar
USA, NH
Joined Mar 2008
3,109 Posts
Good thoughts from all, but I think Nuevo's photo work shows it best. I did all the dremeling out, both in the fuse and the center panel to make sure the DB9 sat in there flush and it does. The wing panel seats perfectly to the fuse and the wing really looks dead on to me (see Neuvo's work on the photo). His photo work also pretty clearly shows the droop on the right side. My stab is a very good snug fit. No wobble to speak of. Very smooth up and down, but it's definitely not right.

So two questions from a new fangeled composite moldie neophyte:

1) I grabbed the fuse right under the stab and twisted it a bit counterclockwise...and all of a sudden my stab is parallel to the wing t.e. and the verticle fin actually looks to have a better vertical (90) rather than being off to the left. So is it possible to heat the fuse, say just in front of the vertical fin, and twist and hold till it cools? Is it possible to reset it doing that or is that jumping out of the frying pan into the fire??? Or will it plain just not work?

2) Alternately, I have to suspect that there is some minor warp in the right half of the stab. Is it possible to heat that part to try and correct the problem?

This little hiccup was discovered just before I went out for the evening and I can tell you it ruined the whole night, with the wife asking "What's wrong" every half hour or so. and me saying "it's nothing".
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 01:34 PM
Jeff Carr
Ft. Mill SC / Charlotte NC
Joined Mar 2001
2,709 Posts
Yes you can take a twist out of a fuse. You have to be careful using the heat gun but it is probably the fastest way of doing it. You will have to hold it past the point where you want and then let it reflex back to its relaxed position. It may take a few tries.

I know Daryl Perkins suggests using bioling water or hot towels. I cant remember which but that will work too.

Just take your time and twist slow.

Jeff
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 02:43 PM
MSgt, USAF Ret.
Jim Frahm's Avatar
USA, WA, Spokane
Joined Nov 2003
1,356 Posts
Clevis covers

Quote:
Originally Posted by webbsolution
cough up your cover source THOSE LOOK GOOD.

Dave,

FWIW - I'm working on carbon clevis covers that will work for the Xplorer. I hope to have them ready before the Spring Tune-up; I'll give you a set to try.

Jim
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 03:49 PM
Detail Freak
target's Avatar
Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,853 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by webbsolution
I am in the process of designing a totally different wiring harness that should drop at least an 1 ounce off your TD or F3x model, allow for way easier routing in the wing, be naturally protected against the contact with carbon inside the wing electrically and will be way easier to solder up without the opportunity of a mistake I came up with this idea during the build of my Xplorer ....stand by on this...

DW

I volunteer to beta test it for you....

T
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 04:48 PM
RIP MC
fnnwizard's Avatar
United States, CA, Midway City
Joined Dec 2003
3,379 Posts
Jaizon, remove the DB connector from the fuse and bolt the wing on tight just to be sure it is not that. If it still is crooked this is how I fixed a Sharon fuse a few years ago. It may not be the preferred method, but it produced a nice straight fuse.

I made 2 L shaped pieces out of shelving material (like bookends). Put aside.

I used a plastic folding table. I put masking tape on the table and drew a straight line to keep fuse aligned to be straight.

I mounted the center wing panel onto the fuse. I placed phone books under the wing about 2 ft apart till close to wing then used a few pieces of 1/4" balsa with bath towel in between to prevent from denting wing.

I propped the wing up enough so that the nose of fuse just clears the table. Because of the droop on the X also, you might not need to remove the tow hook. If hook does not clear, you can propped the back end up a little, however with a full flying stab this part is not very critical.

Now use a square up against fin to see how much the twist is about. Then removed the balsa pieces supporting the center panel from one side and put it under the other side thereby twisting the fuse in opposite direction.

I check to make sure the fuse is still lined up with the line and that the height is about the same, though, agian, it is not very critical with full flying stab.

I then add and remove enough so that now the V fin is about the same in the opposite direction. I note how many pieces of balsa is need. Then make the vertical square again by replacing balsa shims.

Next clamped both those L pieces to the plastic folding table so it can hold the vert stab (with foam or towels between to protect the stab) firmly in place.

I move the balsa shims again to where the Fin would twist the same amount in opposite direction. Put a few more phone books or any heavy object on top the center panel to keep in place. Make sure top surface has towel to protect.

Propped one end of table so water flows towards back of fin. Pour boiling water over the whole rear of the fuse from te to fin. Go somewhat fast at first and remove 1 side of L shape wood to check, do it slower again if needed.

I don't know what epoxy resin is used on the X, but when I used this method with the Sharon wing, the epoxy and paint got soft enough that the weave of the fabric showed slightly and it was not as shiny in that area after. So I can say that that resin used in the Sharon was affected at around 212F.

Thats a lot here to comprehend. I am sure the experts can think of more things. I don't know if this method can add warp to fuse or not, but doing it this way helps avoid or at least minimize any unintended negative consequences.

Good luck,
TL
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 05:07 PM
Registered User
United States, TX, Houston
Joined May 2003
549 Posts
Websolution - new harness solution

Please hurry and post photos on your new invention. Wiring harnesses are a major source of irritation to me.
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 06:37 PM
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andreis's Avatar
Monza, Italy
Joined Dec 2006
131 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by webbsolution
Yup I had to grind the heck out of mine to get it to fit without impacting the saddle fit. When I was done with my Xplorer I basically had the fuse side of the DB 9 held down with one screw that was also dremelled down a bit to lower the profile. The connector is solid and the wing sadlle looks like a good fit.

I am in the process of designing a totally different wiring harness that should drop at least an 1 ounce off your TD or F3x model, allow for way easier routing in the wing, be naturally protected against the contact with carbon inside the wing electrically and will be way easier to solder up without the opportunity of a mistake I came up with this idea during the build of my Xplorer ....stand by on this...

DW
Dave,
One oz less from new wiring style ...?
Veeeeery intersting !!
May are you thinking about such flat cable or what else ???

Antonio.
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Last edited by andreis; Jan 31, 2009 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 07:57 PM
Registered User
Yorba Linda, Ca.
Joined Oct 2003
2,191 Posts
Db9?

Whatcha talking about Clay?
If your trying to use the crimp on db9,,,forgetaboutit!
This type of db9 is too long in profile and creates install problems.
Radio Shack has the solder on type and mine fit fine...
screwed on in the wing and on the fuse...?
ALignment was perfection with the stock holes?
Regarding the fairing covers I used they were left over from a couple of mc3 Opus flap top flap exit covers.... on myi red carbon Explorer they are a nice contrast in white viola!




Db9 in time...all will be fine.

Alan..
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 08:08 PM
RIP MC
fnnwizard's Avatar
United States, CA, Midway City
Joined Dec 2003
3,379 Posts
DB9 not all created equal.

Don't want to beat this to death, but on my DB9, the one that came with the plane, I actually had to grind down the metal that forms the trapezoidal shape on the pin half to get a perfect alignment.

I know that's nitpicking, but my V fin was a little tilted compared to wing until I did this. It was just a slight amount but it was there. I had written that in my previous post, but somehow deleted it when I edited.

If you have one of the connectors put it together and see what I mean. The metal frame bottoms out before the pins are fully seated. .

I'll have a picture of the X with camera mounted in later tonight. Trying to win some points to go flying tomorrow!
TL
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 09:01 PM
Win=span\massXpractice+lu ck
webbsolution's Avatar
Joined Jul 2007
3,091 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by andreis
Dave,
One oz less from new wiring style ...?
Veeeeery intersting !!
May are you thinking about such flat cable or what else ???

Antonio.
Yup its not the hottest idea for sure just common sense and probably this has already been for sale for year I just have not run across it yet.... A well laid out printed circuit would take 2 minutes to solder to a DB-9 or other connector style. Also it has to be stronger than 28 guage wires hell I have pulled pretty hard on printed circuits tearing apart computers and printers in my day

The other obvious bennefit in my opinion would be that you could keep the depth of the solder joints and associated wire to a minimum which makes it less likely to damage your wing and saddle harness when installing them.
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Old Feb 01, 2009, 12:21 AM
4 wheels move a body; 2 a soul
Saratoga, Ca
Joined Feb 2004
1,462 Posts
Jaizon, if you wet towels and heat them in the microwave you can wrap boom and twist fin into vertical. I would suggest going EVER SO SLOWLY
when doing this. If you twist the boom a bunch in one pass you will be certain to get surface weave which doesnt look so nice. Do it right and you will hardly be able to tell you have adjusted the boom.
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Old Feb 01, 2009, 02:20 AM
RIP MC
fnnwizard's Avatar
United States, CA, Midway City
Joined Dec 2003
3,379 Posts
Here's the setup with 4 Flycamone 2 cameras and yaw string ready for some fun!
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