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Old Jan 15, 2009, 11:01 AM
Win=span\massXpractice+lu ck
webbsolution's Avatar
Joined Jul 2007
3,088 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lineofsight
I did my rudder with a control horn from a Blaster aileron. Cut a slit in the rudder and used epoxy/MB to glue to the opposite skin, just like a DLG rudder. The space under the circular depression was hollow on my plane too, I like the idea of spanning across the rudder to the opposite skin rather than just attaching to the skin on the left side of the rudder. Probably overkill since rudder sees the least load, but built/repaired too many DLG rudders, I just always do it this way.

Regards,
Chris

Load in flight is one consieration...load in hanger is another...I used the stock location and a ball link to avoid the potential of damage due to a major hangor bump...
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 11:04 AM
Austin Silent Flyer
rrdiaz30's Avatar
Austin Texas
Joined Mar 2003
384 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by atjurhs
wixy3, I clicked to the webpage link you provided and it went to nothing. I did see where Mike talked about using 1/2 steel slugs to get ballast, but you still need a tube for them to go in. Maybe I'll make mine own, but I sure like the one Rick designed, and from what I understand (could be wrong) Bob's ballast kit, only offers 7oz. or 21oz. nothing in between. Am I wrong???
As far as I know, 7oz and 21oz is it. I have a set of spacers and slugs (tungsten, stainless steel and copper coated lead) that I am designing for as I already have them from previous ships. If you were going the slug route and had to purchase them somewhere, factor that in the cost. Plus the tubing materials and machining costs...yikes! Quite expensive. Now if you already have the slugs and you have a friend that will do the machining for some brewski, well then the cost is manageable.

Rick
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 11:27 AM
Detail Freak
target's Avatar
Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,763 Posts
I'll likely roll my own tube, should I decide on getting the Xplorer...
I might make some extras if there is any interest.

Target
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 12:18 PM
Austin Silent Flyer
rrdiaz30's Avatar
Austin Texas
Joined Mar 2003
384 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by target
I'll likely roll my own tube, should I decide on getting the Xplorer...
I might make some extras if there is any interest.

Target
I figured you would :-)

Anyone wanting to make their own ballast tube, check out Target's Ballast 101 thread! Priceless.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=632908&

Rick
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 01:02 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,763 Posts
I cannot take full credit for the technique Rick, but thanks for the reference.
I have evloved my own spin on that technique to suit my needs.

If I come up with a specific ballast tube setup for Xplorer, I will be sure to post it here.
I probably will not get an Xplorer until another couple projects for other people allows the right flow of cash to get one....


Target
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 04:25 PM
Fly R/C writer
Redlands, Ca
Joined Dec 2004
1,967 Posts
Preston,

I use the stock set-up with the ball link and all then did the cut on the wiper and stuff like FNNWizard. I set the ball on the rod as follows:

I use a brass threaded adapter where the rod pushes into the adapter and is soldered in place. The rudder rod is steel, so it will solder. I then use a fixed clevis at the servo.

As for the elevator, which is a stainless steel tube, I uses the same brass threaded adapter, BUT: I take a pair of diagonal cutters and crimp down on the tube near the tip and then rotate the 90-degrees and place another crimp as close as possible. All this must be at the tip such that the crimps will fit into the adapter. As I insert the tube into the adapter, I coat the tube with JB weld, insert, and then crimp down on the brass adapter two times. This creates not only a chemical joint, (JB Weld) but also a mechanical joint, (crimping). It might actually get loose someday, but it will not separate. I have not had one come loose yet.

Thanks!
Mike
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 04:58 PM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2006
45 Posts


Jaizon
I manufacture these brass pushrod ends.Bore dia is a close fit on stainless push rod
used by NAN Models in their range of planes .supplied with 2mm tapped cross hole and grub screw .push on screw up add some araldite if your a belt and braces type
no need to solder.
see photo includes other bits including rudder horn that suit explorer etc.
atjurhs site link should be www.acemodel.co.uk or pm

Wixy
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 05:57 PM
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USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Aug 2005
736 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wixy3


Jaizon
I manufacture these brass pushrod ends.Bore dia is a close fit on stainless push rod
used by NAN Models in their range of planes .supplied with 2mm tapped cross hole and grub screw .push on screw up add some araldite if your a belt and braces type
no need to solder.
see photo includes other bits including rudder horn that suit explorer etc.
atjurhs site link should be www.acemodel.co.uk or pm

Wixy
I can tell you all thise stuff is TOP NOTCH! Quality can't get much better than Wixy's stuff! My pops ordered a couple ballast sets from Wixy and he sent us a few of these goodies. I can't wait to use them on something. The pushrods have a turn buckle type deal in the center which makes them EASY to put together.

Fnnwizard,

KILLER build thread! Your building is very nice and neat, I like it.

On my Pops Xplorer I soldered Both pushrods and gave it a good tug to make sure and we have had no issues. Use a dremel tool to rough up the surface a bit, drop of flux a hot iron and your in business.

Aaron
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 06:21 PM
Registered User
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Yea, the ballast setup on Wixy's site is nice - I'm going to order one. If anyone else in SoCal wants one let me know and we'll try to save on some shipping.

Clay
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 06:37 PM
RIP MC
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United States, CA, Midway City
Joined Dec 2003
3,344 Posts
1 hand toss and 5 mini histarts

Oh man, where do I begin...

So I got to sneak out today after lunch for a couple hours. Got to my home field, HArbor Soaring Society, Costa Mesa, Califonia, radio on, all surface move in correct direction, range check is good ( though it took me awhile cuz I forgot to how to on my 2.4g radio )

I double check to make sure ele TE is at 94mm from bottom of fuse per Rick's info and it is right on. My CG is 108 also. (Thanks Rick, I had ask way earlier and you were the first one to reply).

Anyway, a weak toss and it was tracking perfect. And I mean perfect. A weak tossed cause i was trying to hi a small patch of grass but it over shot by a wide margin and landed on some hard packed dirt...arhggg.

No more hand tosses, stretch out my histart which is 50ft' of 3/8" x 1/8" wall black rubber tubing and 150 ft line, pulled back 35 steps and right into the sun before I could recover.

I trimmed it out a little more to my liking and by the 5th launch I had to leave already.

This thing is the best flying plane out of the box for me so far. The roll sensitivety is amazing and I don't know if the lighter tips have anything to do with it.

And in landing... I hand caught all five flights. This thing tracks so slow and stable on final with just a 1/4 or a 1/3 flaps ... there goes resale value on everything else I have!
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 06:40 PM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
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United States, TX, Weatherford
Joined Nov 2002
7,822 Posts
I guess I'm a bit paranoid, but I really prefer the silver solder...

To each his own.

Jack
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 07:36 PM
WINS - Winch In Nose Sailplane
jaizon's Avatar
USA, NH
Joined Mar 2008
3,109 Posts
Great tips guys. Gave me lots to think about. Thanks so much. Got the x9303 2.4 today (LHS). Work begins tomorrow.

Jaizon
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Last edited by jaizon; Jan 15, 2009 at 07:37 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 09:49 PM
Austin Silent Flyer
rrdiaz30's Avatar
Austin Texas
Joined Mar 2003
384 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by schrederman
I guess I'm a bit paranoid, but I really prefer the silver solder...

To each his own.

Jack
Me too. Silver Solder and a HOT soldering iron with a chisal tip to dump the heat quick. Scuff up the areas to join with sand paper. Apply the acid flux, then solder. Be carefull not to breath in the fumes when the flux evaporates.

Rick
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 09:57 PM
RIP MC
fnnwizard's Avatar
United States, CA, Midway City
Joined Dec 2003
3,344 Posts
Had someone inquire what I would do on my backup for rudder. This is what I would do, replace that steel pushrod with a carbon on and L bend.

Please note in the drawing I had written 1mm rod. The correct size would be .05" or 1.3mm cf rod.
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Last edited by fnnwizard; Jan 17, 2009 at 02:57 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 11:52 PM
RIP MC
fnnwizard's Avatar
United States, CA, Midway City
Joined Dec 2003
3,344 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wixy3


Jaizon
I manufacture these brass pushrod ends.Bore dia is a close fit on stainless push rod
used by NAN Models in their range of planes .supplied with 2mm tapped cross hole and grub screw .push on screw up add some araldite if your a belt and braces type
no need to solder.
see photo includes other bits including rudder horn that suit explorer etc.
atjurhs site link should be www.acemodel.co.uk or pm

Wixy
Wixy,
Those indeed are nice hardware. Can you make those 2mm pushrods in titanium, and if so how much for a set? I was looking into making some, but haven't found where to source 2mm titanium rod. Anyone know?
Tuan
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