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Old Jan 14, 2009, 02:42 PM
RIP MC
fnnwizard's Avatar
United States, CA, Midway City
Joined Dec 2003
3,344 Posts
That is total blinging Rick, if you use 9/16" it would be a tight fit around the back ring but nothing a little sandpaper wrapped around a 1/2" dowel would not fix. I'm picking up some 1/2" and 9/16" brass and aluminum later today.

One can never get carried away with this hobby is what I tell my wife .

Take a look at this thread:
Hands down the best love of labor thread on Rcgroups!

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...highlight=dc+9
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Old Jan 14, 2009, 03:53 PM
Austin Silent Flyer
rrdiaz30's Avatar
Austin Texas
Joined Mar 2003
384 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fnnwizard
That is total blinging Rick, if you use 9/16" it would be a tight fit around the back ring but nothing a little sandpaper wrapped around a 1/2" dowel would not fix. I'm picking up some 1/2" and 9/16" brass and aluminum later today.

One can never get carried away with this hobby is what I tell my wife .

Take a look at this thread:
Hands down the best love of labor thread on Rcgroups!

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...highlight=dc+9
Tuan,

I did a test fit with a 9/16" OD brass tube and it fit the rear ring with a little play left. I think my airframe was from production shipment 2 (mid-December).

More ballast bling for the Perfect:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...28&postcount=3
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...48&postcount=5

I love the URL...speechless. Got anymore? PM me.

Rick
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Old Jan 14, 2009, 04:43 PM
MSgt, USAF Ret.
Jim Frahm's Avatar
USA, WA, Spokane
Joined Nov 2003
1,296 Posts
Rick,

I like it too. I guess LEO 71 doesn't know you can't attach anything external to your plane for CG or ballast. It's just not allowed in contest flying. I've been blown away by the difference a CG change of 2mm can make in a plane.

Let us know when you're ready to start selling them.

Jim
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Old Jan 14, 2009, 06:45 PM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2006
45 Posts
atjurhs
try page 13 of this thread for ballast .Available from me or www.acemodel
wixy
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Old Jan 14, 2009, 08:53 PM
Detail Freak
target's Avatar
Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,763 Posts
I know that in F3F at least, taping ballast onto the outside of the plane is against the rules.
I'd assume that F3J would be no different.
I'm planning on taping on $50 bills for fine adjustments when I fun fly.

T
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Old Jan 14, 2009, 09:15 PM
Austin Silent Flyer
rrdiaz30's Avatar
Austin Texas
Joined Mar 2003
384 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by target
I know that in F3F at least, taping ballast onto the outside of the plane is against the rules.
I'd assume that F3J would be no different.
I'm planning on taping on $50 bills for fine adjustments when I fun fly.

T
Darn, I don't carry much cash and my debit card won't fit!

I managed to fit a 0.625" OD CF tube in the Xplorer. I very carefully sanded the bottom portion and deck of the rear ballast ring to allow the tube to fit. Now I can do something like this:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=977619&

...or go with the ratchet front end glued to the tube. Now I'm wishing that I should have not sold my lathe years ago.

Aerospace Composite Products sells a carbon tube - TUR-08 0.621" OD x 0.033" WT which yields an ID of 0.555" so a 1/2" slug would fit. Unfortunately, I have 9/16" slugs and spacers, so I will have to layup my own.

Rick
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Old Jan 14, 2009, 11:49 PM
WINS - Winch In Nose Sailplane
jaizon's Avatar
USA, NH
Joined Mar 2008
3,109 Posts
My new Xplorer arrived yesterday and I will add my accolades to those already posted. This thing is a work of art. Absolutely beautiful. Thanks, Bob.

It's been many years since I've "put together" anything and can say without doubt that this thread and a couple of others have been most helpful in my reeducation.

I do have two questions that hopefully someone will be able to answer.

The first one is pretty simple. I understand that the pushrods that come in the fuse are stainless, which is quite difficult to solder. Is it acceptable to use JB Weld to secure the pushrod ends to the stainless? Or are there any other solutions I might I try??

The second one regards the rudder control. The kit comes with a linkage ball and plastic rod end for the rudder. First, does anyone actually use this setup or is it better to opt for a similar horn arrangement to the one used for the flaps and ailerons complete with clevis? And second, and most problematic hiccup for me is how is this linkage (whichever) secured into the rudder? On mine the spar (?) that runs vertically, does not come dead center in the circle depression at the bottom where the horn is supposed to go in. It passes through the forward half of the hole, so drilling in dead center would give me half the spar at best (which is what I'm guessing is supposed to be the anchoring point). Getting in there to do shoring up seems a bit problematic as everything is put together so nicely.

Other than that minor bump in the road this thing looks like it will go together beautifully.

Thanks for any thoughts.

Preston
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 12:06 AM
Detail Freak
target's Avatar
Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,763 Posts
I haven't seen the plane, but if it were me, I'd install a brass horn in the rudder, and use an "L bend" in a piece of music wire for hookup.
I would avoid at all costs drilling through the rudder LE post, instead attempting to bond to the backside of it, with the hole's edge just touching the back of the ruddere spar, if that makes sense.

I thought that someone posted a pic of the rudder linkage already in this thread, but I could be mistaken..

Target

PS. if you rough up and then clean the SS pushrod inner, black CA, JB Weld, or Epoxy should all work really well. I like black rubberized CA.
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 12:13 AM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
United States, TX, Weatherford
Joined Nov 2002
7,821 Posts
My rudder hookup is done per factory spec and it works very well. I have 28 degrees travel without binding in both directions. Now if I can just get back from this road trip to start the wings...

Jack
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 12:36 AM
Chris Lee
United States, MO, St. Louis
Joined Oct 2005
325 Posts
I did my rudder with a control horn from a Blaster aileron. Cut a slit in the rudder and used epoxy/MB to glue to the opposite skin, just like a DLG rudder. The space under the circular depression was hollow on my plane too, I like the idea of spanning across the rudder to the opposite skin rather than just attaching to the skin on the left side of the rudder. Probably overkill since rudder sees the least load, but built/repaired too many DLG rudders, I just always do it this way.

Regards,
Chris
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 12:46 AM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
United States, TX, Weatherford
Joined Nov 2002
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I soldered my rudder pushrod at both ends and had no problem. Acid flux and silver solder with a good hot iron and you're home free...

Jack
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 02:06 AM
RIP MC
fnnwizard's Avatar
United States, CA, Midway City
Joined Dec 2003
3,344 Posts
This is how I did mine. I easily get over 30 degrees of bind free, slop free throw. I used JB weld and a slight crimp.

If I were to do it again, I would make carbon horn and use Z bend to save a few grams. Of course with the Z bend, you'll have to put the horn onto the pusgrod, then glue it in so it will end up being more permanent.

You can go here to see more details, almost same process.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...84&postcount=9
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 09:43 AM
Banned
ACooper's Avatar
USA, NJ, Wantage
Joined Jul 2008
285 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaizon
Is it acceptable to use JB Weld to secure the pushrod ends to the stainless?
The second one regards the rudder control. The kit comes with a linkage ball and plastic rod end for the rudder. First, does anyone actually use this setup Thanks for any thoughts.

Preston
Preston...I have a NAN Models Shadow and I used JB Weld on the rods and it worked great. I used the stock rudder ball and socket and it also works perfectly but you do need to clean out the area so there is no binding. I used Finwizards Shadow build thread as a guide. I drilled a tiny hole in the recessed area and epoxied in the ball horn. Then I used my dremel with a small gring stone to clear away enough of the rudder wiper material. Word of caution, this material practically vaporizes under a Dremel stone so take it slow and easy. You could also use a small file for the job. I used a carbide tipped bit on my Dremel to clean away a bit of balsa that's there to also prevent binding...this must also be done slow and in tiny increments. Lastly, I took a file and filed down the high spots on the sides of the plastic ball socket that I epoxied to the end of the rod. The result is full travel with no binding. Take your time and even doing that you should be done in 15 minutes.
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 10:54 AM
agony sweetns the victory
atjurhs's Avatar
Any Flying Field Across America
Joined Jul 2005
3,515 Posts
wixy3, I clicked to the webpage link you provided and it went to nothing. I did see where Mike talked about using 1/2 steel slugs to get ballast, but you still need a tube for them to go in. Maybe I'll make mine own, but I sure like the one Rick designed, and from what I understand (could be wrong) Bob's ballast kit, only offers 7oz. or 21oz. nothing in between. Am I wrong???
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 11:00 AM
Win=span\massXpractice+lu ck
webbsolution's Avatar
Joined Jul 2007
3,088 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by schrederman
I soldered my rudder pushrod at both ends and had no problem. Acid flux and silver solder with a good hot iron and you're home free...

Jack

I soldered then added alayer of JB weld No chances ...
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