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Old May 15, 2009, 11:05 AM
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SmokinJoe101's Avatar
Joined Jan 2004
919 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Kindrick
You have got to be kidding me that lead is used in that epoxy pigment. No wonder I fly Samba
Most EUOPE model builders shoud be using non lead base paint by now or there just using what they have on hand till there out of the old lead base paint.

sj
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Old May 15, 2009, 12:23 PM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2007
378 Posts
Mike I just went up and spoke to one of the materials and process weenies about doing a test for prohibitive materials on the Samba paint using the XRF Analyzer. Guess what no lead on the canopy or stab. SAMBA is GREEN baby!
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Old May 15, 2009, 01:21 PM
RIP MC
fnnwizard's Avatar
United States, CA, Midway City
Joined Dec 2003
3,340 Posts
My tips came out to:

Right tip 174.3 g (6.11oz)
Left tip 173.3 g (6.15oz)
Stabs 54.2g (1.91oz)

Yes garage floor is nasty. It was that way when we bought the house
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Old May 15, 2009, 07:24 PM
Throw it like you hate it
RCPC's Avatar
United States, CA, Castro Valley
Joined Apr 2007
3,085 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlee8249
So, I do not use any retainer or wheel collar to keep the pushrod in place. It is simple, easy and effective.
i dont think you should have an issue but since i keep asking all the questions, i decided to give back a little nugget of engineering i use.

on all L-bends, i take a clipping of a servo arm and drill a hole slightly under-sized for the rod. i then push the piece of plastic over the L-bend and i am done. i sometimes put a little glob of 90 sec (yes 90 seconds) epoxy on the tip of the L-bend and plastic to be sure everything stays were i left it. i use 90sec because it is much more rubbery and doesnt pull away from the metal or plastic from shock. you have to work fast though. i used to use JB and even 5 and 30 min epoxy but i found the 90sec gives a bond that is less prone to shattering or pulling away from the plastic or metal.

i use this technique to keep wheels on small parkfliers too. i always thought that collars are too expensive and heavy. they also take up a lot of room on the pushrod. i used on pushrods too in many of my powered planes. here is a pic of how i used it with my rudder pushrod on my X. i havent added the 90sec to the keep the retainers on, but i will do that soon.
cheers
paul
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Old May 16, 2009, 12:43 AM
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Joined Apr 2003
273 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCPC
....................................
on all L-bends, i take a clipping of a servo arm and drill a hole slightly under-sized for the rod. i then push the piece of plastic over the L-bend and i am done. ....................

I use piece of heatshrink or pushrod sleeve which fits tight. With some cyno it newer comes off and can make a tight fit.
Cheers
Gert
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Old May 16, 2009, 02:55 AM
Fly R/C writer
Redlands, Ca
Joined Dec 2004
1,966 Posts
Well, today was a day off from the office, but a day in for the workshop! We left off with the aileron servo being installed, and we pick up right there with the right aileron getting the same treatment. In the process, we extended the wires to reach the wing joint and I use regular servo plugs when joining the wings together. i never did trust myself to install the kind of plugs that other guys use that simply connect when you join the wings. Okay, so I plug my wires in by hand everytime, but if I ever need to change a servo in the field quickly, it's a bit easier with the loose wire and connector.

From there, we assembled the wing wiring harness. Now, I don't know if this is absolutely true, but my local Radio Shack told me that they are no longer going to be carrying the 9-pin DB-9 connector except in the kit form. The kit form is the one where the pins are not inserted into the body of the connector. I have not had very good luck with the kit version, and always went after the completed one. Luckily, this store had a set left and I got it. After chasing wires down into the wing to the center section, we connected up the DB-9 and began the "Mission Impossible" task of getting it to fit inside wher it is supposed to go. OMG, I did it without a hitch! First time for that feat! (Well, at least for me it was.) Felt so good about that one, that I took my sweet time on the mating connector.

Here ya go:
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Old May 16, 2009, 03:10 AM
Fly R/C writer
Redlands, Ca
Joined Dec 2004
1,966 Posts
Our next step was to install the flap servos, knowing that the wire harness would work. Plus, I used it to center up the JR 3421 servos before rigging the flaps. Using the very same technique used on the ailerons, the flap install went smoothly. From here, I went to install the fuselage DB-9 connector.

Okay, we finally came down to earth...this was not so smooth. I should have taken this caution, but I did not. I should have fitted the DB-9 to the fuselage first before doing up the wiring just to make sure it fits into the hole. It didn't. And so I ended up doing the trial and error fitting. In my case, I had to insert the wires each time I fitted it and remove the entire thing if it did not fit....which was more that a few times. When it finallly fit down inside, I mated the wing to see the fit between them...no dice. The fuselage connector was sticking up too much. I then milled down the mounting area with a dremel and router bit, removing a couple of mm. Now it fits.
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Old May 16, 2009, 03:17 AM
Fly R/C writer
Redlands, Ca
Joined Dec 2004
1,966 Posts
We are now on to the battery. I use a 2S lithium-Ion pack of Relion cells, and then use a Castle Creations BEC to regulate the power. This pack is rated at 2600-mAh and for proper fit into the X, we had to reconfigure it a bit. Once done, everything was tossed into the nose with a Spektrum AR7000 receiver and a single satellite rx up inside the canopy. It all barely fits inside. We had to add a couple of ounces of nose weight to achieve a balance point of 106-mm, and from there, we can adjust it to our likings at the field. It's now past midnight in California, so time to rest.
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Old May 16, 2009, 05:55 AM
Tragic case
davidleitch's Avatar
Sydney Australia
Joined Feb 2002
5,875 Posts
The Graupner or Multiplex 6 pin plug is a great alternative to DB9. The Graupner version comes with a nice plastic mount.
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Old May 16, 2009, 09:06 AM
Registered User
Stamford, CT
Joined Feb 2002
476 Posts
I like the Multiplex much better than the DB9. It seems like a more reliable piece to me. It is also designed for many cycles of connecting and disconnecting. The DB9 is not. Some of my friends that like DB connectors and want more redundancy on the on the power connectors have gone to the DB15 connector, also sold at Radio Shack.

George
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Old May 16, 2009, 10:46 AM
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Sarasota, FL
Joined Jan 2006
186 Posts
Mike, we really appreciate you taking pictures and explaining your installation. Could you also post what you set your control surface throws to? Also what you recommend for launch settings.

I just got my Xplorer from Bob and it looks great. Great packaging and had all the equipment I ordered (thanks Annette). Plane is absolutely beautiful.

Thanks again Mike.

Phil
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Old May 16, 2009, 12:38 PM
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ACooper's Avatar
USA, NJ, Wantage
Joined Jul 2008
285 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by podrieger
Mike, we really appreciate you taking pictures and explaining your installation.
X2!
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Old May 16, 2009, 12:46 PM
Detail Freak
target's Avatar
Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,763 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidleitch
The Graupner or Multiplex 6 pin plug is a great alternative to DB9. The Graupner version comes with a nice plastic mount.

I'd be interested in that, David.
Will it fit in the same space that the DB9 will??

Never seen one in the USA.

Target
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Old May 16, 2009, 02:38 PM
WINS - Winch In Nose Sailplane
jaizon's Avatar
USA, NH
Joined Mar 2008
3,109 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmccleave
I started at 108 and have not felt any reason to change it as it flys great there. Also can put either set of ballast and not change it at all.

See Ya,

Pat
Which ballast set is that? the one from SUSA or Wiky3? Thanks.

Preston
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Old May 16, 2009, 04:57 PM
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ACooper's Avatar
USA, NJ, Wantage
Joined Jul 2008
285 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by target
I'd be interested in that, David.
Will it fit in the same space that the DB9 will??

Never seen one in the USA.

Target
Possibly this?
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/quick-fix...chQueryId=1131
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