Everything wilga (Sapac Wilga 2000 Mods, Vids etc...)
Welcome Wilga fanatics!
I started this Thread as a build log but since researching the Wilga's history I've found this Plane to be quite interesting.
Anyway, let's talk Wilga!
Try to keep it in the Foam category but if you have any Modding ideas please feel free to join in!
A very important site. Sapac replacement Parts:
I've loved RC Planes since I was a Kid but never purchased one for myself because of the cost and aggravation at the thought of crashing a Plane after putting so many Hours into building it.
Now with the advent of electric Motors and Foam tech, RC Planes are very affordable and don't take much of anything to put together.
Also, if you crash it, you're not out all that Money and wasted build Time.
This is my first RC Plane so I wanted something inexpensive as well as easy to fix.
I didn't want to go down the same Road as all my Fiends and get the usual Piper Cub, Cessna, ect...
After researching available "Cheap" kits I came across Sapac's Wilga 2000.
The Sapac Wilga 2000 is what I'd call an intermediate trainer. If you don't have a good understanding of flight Physics and aren't already familiar with a basic understanding of flight controls then this Plane isn't for you.
If you're a beginner with little or no knowledge of aviation flight control or want something easier to learn right out of the Box then I would suggest a Slow Stick trainer like the Hobby Zone Firebird:
It's VERY easy to master and won't frustrate you to the point of giving up.
History of the Wilga:
The Wilga line was named after the Wilga Bird.
Poland's Light Aircraft Science and Production Centre in Warsaw began development of the Wilga in the early 1960s as a replacement for the general purpose Czechoslovak L60 Brigadyr utility.
The prototype Wilga 1 was powered by a 135kW (180hp) Narkiewicz WN6B radial and flew for the first time on April 24 1962. A fairly extensive redesign of the basic aircraft followed, and a modified Wilga 2 with a new fuselage and tail and a 145kW (195hp) WN6RB engine flew in August 1963. That December the 170kW (225hp) Continental O470 powered Wilga C or (Wilga 32) flew and Lipnur Gelatnik later built 39 in Indonesia.
Poland's first production Wilgas were the 3A four seat utility and 3S ambulance which introduced the 195kW (260hp) Ivchenko designed AI14 radial. Soon after PZL reconfigured the Wilga's cabin and landing gear, resulting in the definitive production version, the Wilga 35. The prototype Wilga 35 first flew on July 28 1967.
The Wilga 35 remains in production essentially unchanged, and several variants have been offered, while the Wilga 80 is identical to the 35 other than its further rear positioned carburettor air intake. The Wilga 35A and 80A are designed for flying club operations and are fitted with a hook for glider towing, the 35H and 80H are float equipped, the 35P is usually fitted with four seats, the 35R and 80R are agricultural aircraft fitted with a 270kg (595lb) under fuselage chemical hopper and spray bars, and the 35P is an ambulance variant capable of carrying two stretchers.
Span - 11,28 m / 37.0078 Ft
Length - 8,46 m / 27.7559 Ft
Wing area - 15,5 m2 / 50.8530 Ft²
Doors dimensions - 1,63 x 0,95 m / 5.34 X 3.11 Ft
Take-off weight - 1300 kg / 2866.009 lbs
Empty weight - 1000 kg / 2204.662 lbs
Stalling speed - 66 km/h / 41.01 mph
Rate of climb - 4,6 m/s / 15.0918 Ft/s
Max. range - 620 km / 2034 mi at cruise speed 142 km/h / 465.87 mph
Take-off / Landing run - 80/95 m / 262.5/311.7 Ft
Wilga 80H Float
Wilga 35A Tow
Wilga 80R Crop Duster
The PZL-104M Wilga 2000 is an improved development aimed at western customers. It is powered by a 225kW (300hp) Textron Lycoming Continental IO540 flat six in a reprofiled nose, and features AlliedSignal avionics and extra fuel. First flight was on August 21 1996, while FAA certification was awarded in 1997.
PZL-104 Wilga2000 Float
Enough history, back to my story, LOL!
The Wilga 2000 is available from Sapac as well as Graupner. There are other manufacturers and if you Google Wilga 2000 you'll find just about everyone sells the Sapac version, even on eBay but these are the Two I came up with.
The Sapac is around $160.00 (RTF) and comes with everything you need to get flying. A few drawbacks to this Model are the cheap Li/Po charger and the sloppy Factory placement of the Stickers. The Radio is surprisingly nice for the price as well as the Motor and speed control.
The Graupner is a bit more expensive chiming in at $215 (ARF) & $339 (RTF) but has a much better Radio and includes a very nice balanced Li/Po charger, as well as a few other features that if I had seen the Graupner first, I would have purchased it instead, like the Stickers being on the Sheets, ready for you to apply properly...
I wasn't expecting much when I got the Plane in the mail and was pleasantly surprised at the quality of things like the Radio and micro servos.
The radio has some high end features like channel mixing etc.
The only thing I didn't like where the control surface Hinges but I was excited to get it together and try it out.
After putting it together I took it out and in 5 Minuets crashed it because of the sluggish, lacking control response. I also was made aware very quickly of just how fragile the Foam is.
Thank God it wasn't totaled so after getting it back Home I took a deep breath and decided to really concentrate on what this Plane needs in order to make it fly properly.
My first problem to solve was the lack of control.
Being a cheap Foam Plane I wasn't expecting allot but the design really limits how the control surfaces perform.
The Hinges are very restrictive except for the ailerons. The Tape method for the Ailerons is quite ingenious but the way they re-enforced them where the Rod connector attaches is a very weak point and allows too much give, resulting in poor performance.
It was an easy fix by taking the Tape off and replacing it with some high quality 3M Vinyl Tape as seen in the Pics, I also used packing Tape to cover the Wing to protect and increase its stiffness:
My next problem was more complex and needed allot more attention and thought.
The Rudder and Elevator on this Plane are a disaster in control, or lack thereof. Incorporating the Hinges into the molding of these control surfaces really limits and restricts movement and puts allot of strain on the servos.
After giving it allot of thought I purchased some small Brass Hinges and epoxied them into the control surfaces very carefully.
Now they move very freely and as you can see in the Pics not only do they move freely but have a much better range of movement.
After doing this mod I found much cheaper Hinges specifically made for RC Planes, instead of Stanley Brass Hinges.
I guess you live and learn...
Anyway, here's a link to where you can get them:
The next thing I did was to get the speed control out of the rubber Boot and put it somewhere it could stay cool.
Speed controls get very hot and it just looked like the way they had it in there was just asking for pre-mature thermal failure so I took care of that problem and also took care of the possibility of water damage if I ever use the Pontoons.
I used epoxy to secure it in place and then covered the entire Circuit in epoxy to keep vibration and Water damage out:
I used 1/8" Wood dowels glued with contact cement to the leading edge of the Wing to protect it from collisions and also used the Red Tape to mark under the Plane and on the leading edge of the Elevator to help orientate the Plane in flight. I also got rid of the Glass Tape and poorly placed Sticker on the Bottom surface and replaced it with the 3M Vinyl Tape for a cleaner look.:
With a few Hours of work and about $10.00 in parts I made this a real RC flyer capable of much smoother and accurate control.
Hello from Italy and sorry 4 my bad english
I bought Wilga 2000 and some mods are maiden....
1) wings are to much poor anf its flex are to much bad...so i added another carbon rod (see photo) removable
after this i changed electronic equipment (speed controll was KO!!) and put a new brushless motor (original speed 300 6v burned after 2nd fly)
now i had to fly with 1/4 throttle
bye and see us at next modding
Wow! Love what you did with the new Motor, looks great!
I too re-enforced the Wing but didn't take any Pics. I installed 1/8" Wood Dowels in the same place you did and put another Dowel up front as well. I found out with the first crash that the weak spot on this Plane is where the 2 Wing halves come together. It almost destroyed the Wing and it wasn't a very high speed crash. I also re-enforced the Tail section with Dowels because I could see problems in the future there as well.
Its a really cool looking Plane and is easy to fly once you overcome a few design limits. I didn't know if all Foamies where made like this untill I went to the hobby shop, sadly they are, but what do you expect for such a cheap price. Its a great challenge to work on a plane and get it flying like you want and its also cool that if you mess up the parts are really cheap to replace.
Great looking new Motor Kitaro.
Speaking of Motors, the stock Motor burned up on me the other day while in flight, UGGG!
Thank God this thing has a good glide slope or it would have went down like a Rock. The Motor just stopped dead, no warning like sputtering or muttering, just stopped, LOL!
I guess we know where they cut cost on this thing...
Anyway, I ordered a new Motor, it's a Vector 30 Turn 1300kv.
Now that I read your update I hope I made the right choice. If not then I'll go for something like you did with a less Amp hungry Geared Motor.
One thing I did was to make an intake to allow more Air to get directly to the Motor (too late for the OEM Motor). You can see on the Nose where I cut it out. It looks ugly but if it works then it's worth it:
While waiting on the new Motor I've been doing some more modding.
I replaced those wobbly Wire landing gear and replaced them with something a little more substantial it was only $20.00 in parts so I'm still not doing too bad and if this Plane is totaled I can still use them on another Plane in the future:
Keep me posted on your progress.
After all the modding, the added weight has become a pleasant nusance.
It's added allot more stability when flying in windy conditions so I guess it's a fair trade off.
Hopefully the new Motor will be here soon so I can get back to flying.
Yes it does, and it really seems to help with stability.
It's not allot but if you look real close (as you did) there is a very slight droop to the Wing that goes away in flight.
As I get into flying this more I might consider getting support Struts for the Wing, but I doubt I'll need to because the Wing is very stiff after I used packing Tape to cover the Foam.
I finally got the Motor Today.
It only took 4 Days from Japan, not bad at all.
The Motor is quite impressive and at $24.00 it's a great deal.
Thanks to Andrew McGregor for the Heads up on the Waypoint series of Brushless Outrunner Motors.
I've been educating myself all about Brushless Motors and I think I might have jumped the Gun on accusing Sepac of putting a cheap Motor in this Plane.
Kitaro, you might want to take Note of this because it sounds like this has been the cause of your aggravation.
I think the big problem with the design is the lack of proper ventilation and the poorly (Cheap Plastic) designed Motor Mount that covers just about all the Vent Holes on the Motor.
After my Plane's Motor failed and I looked it over I noticed that it got so hot it almost melted the Motor mount and deformed it so bad I almost had to trash it and start from scratch, no wonder the Motor failed.
Anyway, I installed the new Motor and had to re-heat the Motor mount to get it lined back up as best I could. I also opened up the Plastic Mount to expose the Vents so Air could flow:
Then, in order to accommodate the large Vents to the Bottom of the mount so the Air from my new intake could be used to better cool the Motor I had to grind the Plastic more in order to allow space for the Wires. You can also see where I swapped out drive Shafts with the OEM Motor to accommodate the OEM Prop:
The Vents on the opposite end of the Motor are ingeniously machined to help draw Air through the Motor around the windings:
My Wife tolerates me, God love Her:
In order to reduce drag and get the Air where it needs to be I covered up the original Vent Holes which did nothing as far as cooling goes. The Intake I cut out really doesn't look all that bad and has made all the difference in the World as far as cooling the Motor.
I didn't get a Picture of it but I also had to add some weight to balance the Plane so I used some Led and made an Air Ramp just behind the intake to reduce drag and compress the Air up towards the Motor better:
I did a little flying Today but my Leg got to hurting too bad and it was so hot out it was miserable, since I injured my Back at work about 1.6 Years ago I can't stand very long anymore and it really sucks some Days.
Anyway, the new Waypoint really worked well. It's much more quiet than the OEM Motor and runs allot smother as well. It's the perfect replacement Motor and has just as much power as the OEM Motor and has much better/smoother Throttle control as well.
The short flight I took lasted about 8Min and I was anxious to see how hot the Motor was. To my delight it was only warm to the touch and it was very hot out Today so I'm very pleased with its performance.
Well, until next time here's to Flying!
Tail Wheel Mod
Well I said I was going to do it, and I did, LOL!
One thing that's been bugging me is the real lack of being able to steer while taxiing.
I couldn't sleep Tonight so I started rummaging around in the Garage looking through all my Junk Boxes for Parts to make the Tail Wheel steerable.
I'm a pack Rat, I keep everything left over from old projects and it's good that I do because I used some real old left over Parts from my RC Truck Days.
I still have my Losi Buggy that I turned into a Stadium Truck back in 1990, I need to get it out and tinker with it again but I digress...
Anyway, I had to get rid of the old Axle because it's just too thin and the Wheel just wobbles around on it.
I found some 1/8" Aluminum Rod and drilled the Center of the Hub out to accommodate the new Axle:
Then I scrounged up some Rubber thing from a past project, some old Washers and I cut a Switch Boot to use as a keep (Red thing) that worked perfectly for the Axle Bering assembly.
I used it because being Rubber it will have some give and act as a shock absorber:
Then I used an old Steering Ball Socket from saved Losi Parts, more 1/8" Aluminum Rod, Heat shrink Tubing, 3/8" Dowel to tie the Ball Tip Bolt and Axle together and Wire ties to bring it all together:
It's so late and there isn't much light for flying at 4:00am, LOL! So I just took it out to the Street and tried it out, WOW! I drove it around like a Car and had total control over where it went!
It worked out better than I ever imagined.
I can't wait to take it out and Taxi around and I really can't wait to see how it will affect landing, I know it'll be very cool!
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