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Old Sep 07, 2010, 10:42 PM
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Hi hauntfreaks, Im just curious J-3 motor is the same size with Ember's motor (6mm with 8T pinion) so how come it can produce significant more power than the original Ember motor if using the same gear box/prop.
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 11:20 PM
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Hauntfreaks:

Impressive work!!!

RD

(Ember Enthusiast)
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 11:40 PM
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Very nice work indeed Hauntfreaks, I'm also an "Ember Nut", and you've done a good job there. Looking forward to the video.

Andy

Re; the J3 motor, I'm not certain, but isn't it a hotter wiring?
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Old Sep 08, 2010, 01:40 PM
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Andy is correct the J-3 motor has a hotter winding....

and again thanks for the kind words...
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Old Sep 21, 2010, 10:06 AM
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Chester, UK
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J3 motor

I fitted the J3 motor to the Ember today and could not believe the difference.

I have no way of measuring the power, but the reports of it being able to climb vertical are pretty spot on.

The Ember will now fly above the trees which surround me, without fear of dissapearing due to being unable to punch into the wind.

I use a 150mha E Flite li-po which gives plenty of flight time.

Unfortunately I forgot to glue the motor into the holder, but it appears not to have affected the performance.

Graham
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 01:34 PM
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Well done Graham, I don't know anyone else that has fitted that motor, and I'm glad it's made a big difference to the performance. Any chance of sharing a short video clip with all the other Ember nuts like me. I know for a fact that RD would love to see the new plane in flight.

Regards
Andy.

I'll PM you, when you get chance check your messages.
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 04:31 PM
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Rock Hill, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aero Andy View Post
Hi Graham


Micron RC sell them at £6.75, the link's below. I bought a couple a while back after stripping one of mine, just undo the screws to the board and they are a straight swop.

Regards
Andy

http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/spektrum_servo.html
How much of a hassle was it to solder the wires to the proper connections on the receiver brick? I've changed out a motor on an Ember 1, and it was a real challange to get these hair-like wires soldered.

RD
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Doug Sipprell View Post
How much of a hassle was it to solder the wires to the proper connections on the receiver brick? I've changed out a motor on an Ember 1, and it was a real challange to get these hair-like wires soldered.

RD
Hi Doug, I actually cheated a little, I cut the original wires real close to the old servo motor, still leaving them soldered to the board. Then just twisted the new and old wires together and dabbed a little hot glue over the join the hold it in place. You could cheat even more if the original servo motor is still OK, just pop it out of the old unit and into the new servo with the wires still attached.

All the best
Andy
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 03:06 AM
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j3 motor

Hi Andy,

Unfortunately my skill's at soldering are terrible.

I noticed that you hot glued the joint on your servo and I must say that I also cut the wire between the old motor and the board.

I did manage to solder ('''''''' ) the new wires from the J3 and have simply covered the joint with micropore tape. It is a shame that the J3 wire is too short to reach the brick as it has the same connecter as the original motor.

Graham
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by geedee View Post
I did manage to solder ('''''''' ) the new wires from the J3 and have simply covered the joint with micropore tape. It is a shame that the J3 wire is too short to reach the brick as it has the same connecter as the original motor.
this was my answer for extending the wires on the micro planes... find an old computer mouse... cut the wire and strip back the insulation... inside you will find close to the same gauge wire, 5 or 6 strands of it...

and for soldering... being in this hobby and MANY others, there is nothing like investing in a good iron... I've use wellers and unger.... but I now use a Hakko 936 there are hundreds of tips you can get for it, and you have 100% control over the heat... I use this from soldering on AR6400 bricks to solder joints for slot car chassis.... its the best I have ever had...

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Old Sep 23, 2010, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by hauntfreaks View Post
...for soldering... being in this hobby and MANY others, there is nothing like investing in a good iron... I've use wellers and unger.... but I now use a Hakko 936 there are hundreds of tips you can get for it, and you have 100% control over the heat... I use this from soldering on AR6400 bricks to solder joints for slot car chassis.... its the best I have ever had...

Good info. Where can one find this Hakko unit? I expect I will be doing more repairs on Ember bricks, Champ/Mustang bricks, etc. Not just for my needs, but for others who are now bringing their bent up equipment to me for repairs!

Tnx

RD
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 11:52 PM
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I grabbed mine off ebay used... but here a link to a new one this one even has fancy decals on it....

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Old Sep 23, 2010, 11:54 PM
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Thanks. I think the Darth Vader version looks better!


RD
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Old Sep 26, 2010, 05:43 AM
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Chester, UK
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Dying Ember !

Well , I had so much fun with my Ember after fitting the J3 motor I decided to fly in my neighbours field !

I took it up high and the wind really caught it and now it is somewhere nearer to heaven than me......

No doubt when the leaves fall in a month or so it may re-appear, but with so many trees around, it was not possible to identify which one it landed in.

Not sure whether to get another, or a Champ. I need a bit more weight, but with the ability to fly indoors as well.

Graham
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Old Sep 26, 2010, 07:40 AM
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Oh Graham, what a shame, after getting the faster motor fitted, and it flying so well, I bet you're gutted. Is there really no way of finding it in the trees?
I feel for you, I really do.
Andy

I'm not sure if you'd have enough room to fly a Champ indoors, but like you, I'd love one, I follow and read all threads and it seems ideal for a high wing outdoor micro.
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