|Jul 27, 2008, 09:46 PM|
spread the glue
take the glue and run a zig zag line along the face of the joint on both the epp leading edge and the face of the trailing edge.
take your finger and rub in the glue so that you are covering the entire surace with the glue lightly. . . .try not to get it off of the face and on to the top or bottom of the core as the core will stick to the bed when you set it up to dry!
If you do get it on the top, use some wax paper on the side with the glue mistake.
work one piece at a time . . glue, rub then move to the other side.
|Jul 27, 2008, 09:54 PM|
place the trailing edge in the bed and move it back 1/8"
place the trailing edge in the bed after it is glued and move it back 1/8". Take the straight edge and lay it against the root of the wing
slide the leading edge against the straight edge and then slide it back onto the trailing edge of the core and press firmly against both the ruler and the trailing edge.
Once you have the root connected, start pressing the epp down into the core bed and press it against the trailing edge. Be careful not to press too hard down as you will warp the leading edge.
Once you get it all pressed back onto the trailing edge, life the wing out of the bed and admire your work!
Run your hand along the joint and make sure that you do not have any gaps in the joint or any waves above or below the joint (warps).
gently lift and replace the leading edge if you have waves or press the leading edge on to the trailing edge if there is a gap.
|Jul 27, 2008, 09:59 PM|
tips are tips
the tips MAY NOT match up . . . this is OK
You can always trim the tips to match but you can not fix a screwed up root....make sure the root matches and the rest will follow
Here you can see the split in mine at the tip...best to see it in the beds . . .
|Jul 27, 2008, 10:03 PM|
check it out
now is the time..check to see if you got it right. . .
set the core beds next to each other and place the newly made wing halves together...do they cinch up together without a gap?
If they do, you are set, if not, you may be able to still make a little adjustment but for the most part, you are going to have a little more work later with some additional weight from the glue and filler. either way . . . onward!
|Jul 27, 2008, 10:05 PM|
now that the cores have been sitting together for a while, check to make sure there is no separation between the front and back of the wing. If there is, push the leading edge toward the trailing edge gently so you do not dent the trailing edge.
Here you can see mine splitting a little, just give a little press to solve the issue.
|Jul 27, 2008, 10:11 PM|
drying and storage
the glue take a little time to completely dry although it is entirely operational at this point, yet another thing I love about this glue!
I place the cores back into the beds with the trailing edge back 1/8" from the edge, this allows the leading edge to be sandwiched when we press these in the beds overnight as I am running out of time this evening. This also ensures that there is no warping while the cores dry.
Lay a heavy straight edge on the top of the sandwich and align it so that it is in the middle of the joint and applies even pressure throughout the top of the beds.
apply a weight across the straight edge and let it sit overnight.
more work tomorrow!
|Jul 30, 2008, 10:03 PM|
back in the saddle again!
The wing has sat for a few days and dried nicely.
When I went to remove them from drying in the beds while I was gone I had to use my sure cure method of pulling them out because - yes, even me- gets glue on the edges of the joint while working!
The easiest way of tacklying this problem is to start with the trailing edge (furthest from the joint) and rotate the core beds up and back to allow them to be peeled free from the cores.
Do this for all three pieces of core bed until you have the cores free and clear.
Check for two things:
consistency on the glue joint
If you have a warp, all is not lost. You still have one more chance to get it right before you unstall your spars!
Be aware . . . I use a small piece of painters tape to mark problems for later resolution.
|Jul 30, 2008, 10:13 PM|
power power everywhere but not a drop to drink
I sat deliberating over the power options I had availble with this design. The possibilities are limitless as the plane is light enough and has enough span to make a great light slermaler or beef it up a bit and make it a speed bird with the Dons Wicked 3000KV I have already listed.
The chord is more than thick enough to accommodate not only a 2400 Mah 3S pack, but also easily accommodates my 4S 300O mah pack too!
The airfoil is more than thick enough to accommodate standard servos, so if you have anthing there or inbetween, you are set
My question is - what the heck to I want....should we build this for great all around climb and thrust to get up high and thermal or build it solid to drill holes in the skies!
The problem is that I have all the stuff for any of these configurations
Well, for now . .here are a bunch of pictures of the equipment first round placement for all those interested in just what you can shove in!
|Jul 30, 2008, 10:18 PM|
room to grow
as you can see from the 4s 3000 Mah pack, there is plenty of room for whatever you want with room to spare.
I intend on covering the battery and radio compartment with a door this time around as the last set up was not to my liking after I got to using it over the last couple of months.
I many do another vac form door in order to get some cooling, but that would be entirely contingent on what type of setup I use. A thermal set up is not going to hog amps like a speed set up will!
well, the old eyes are closing on their own, it is time for a rest.
More work tomorrow
|Aug 02, 2008, 11:44 PM|
weight and balance
doing a little weight and balance to figure things out for several different configurations and motor set ups.
2.9 oz for the wings with the leading edges affixed.
light light light and plenty of wing area to support whatever you choose
|Aug 02, 2008, 11:45 PM|
here is a set up for just plain old sloping this thing. You have plenty of room for the std servos and a full aa battery pack!
trying to get it to balance out should be absolutely no issue with this one either
6.3 oz with two honkin huge std JR servos!
|Aug 02, 2008, 11:46 PM|
check out the weights of the different configurations.
Sorry about the glare in some of the pictures, using a different camera tonight
The biggest honker of a pack that I have is this 3000 mah 4s pack. I want this to be versatile, I have 1/2 X 1/2 epp strip stock that I can use to wedge smaller packs into the hole but dont want to be limited with smaller packs should I want to add onto the design later.
|Aug 02, 2008, 11:46 PM|
some different spar positions
trying to get everything to fit and balance can be sometimes tough but there seems to be lots of room here to work with!
|Aug 06, 2008, 03:04 PM|
change in the build
After much deliberation regarding options and the absolute incredible versitility that I see in this design in so far as a cross platform model. I contacted eff at McClain and asked him what he thought of building it real light and set it up for slermaling or cross platform plane or transitional model between someone who has built and flown a wild wing or stryker and is just not ready for the likes of a Rite wing yet. A versatile transition plane that will handle the same flight pack from your wild wing or stryker yet offers the ability to throw it off a cliff or hill and slope it all day with the same set up . . . . or climb it up high and thermal the crud out of it.
One of the most basic and inexpensive power options available is the power combo offered by Hobby city ( http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/..._9x6_Prop_Combo ) or rchotdeals.com ( http://www.rchotdeals.com/Products/...ype2408-21.html )
These power systems offer low draw and high output on a budget.....most of all, they are light and can be mixed with a folding prop easily to reduce drag once the motor run is finished.
* Weight:1.77oz (Including the Aluminum mount)
* Size:30(Dia)X27(L) mm
* Output Axis:M3
* Max Current:14A
* BATTERY: 2-3LIPO (7.2V-12.6V)
* PROPELLER: 3LIPO 8X4;
600 grams/ 21.0 oz
This motor is available under a whole bunch of names and outlets and varies in price from as low as 9.00 to 21.00. A simple 18A to 25A esc will do fine but I have a spare 30a I will be using on this project as I already picked it up for the build.
|Aug 06, 2008, 07:56 PM|
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