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Old Aug 19, 2010, 10:39 PM
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KJ4YNM
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Well, she's starting to look like a bird!
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Old Aug 20, 2010, 01:56 PM
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Looking good!
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 07:40 PM
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Cool, keep the photos coming!
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Old Oct 06, 2010, 02:06 PM
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Got one!

I started the 52" version last night. I started with the head and neck while I wait on my out-runners to arrive. Are there any tips, tricks, or mods that I should know about ahead of time?

Salty
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Old Oct 11, 2010, 03:15 AM
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SINK HAPPENS !!!!
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Don't rush the build. Make sure you understand the instructions and make sure you have the latest instructions as improvements are always being made. This model will reward you for your efforts. I used Profilm for covering because of the compound curves and it paid off.
Andrew
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Old Oct 11, 2010, 10:41 AM
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Yes, take it slow as some of the sheeting will look better if you sand it to fit. It's a fun model to build and fly. It's a very unique model so it draws a lot of interest at the field. Go with higher kv motors as suggested by Petroworks, this plane really is fun to fly fast, I wish I had put in the 1400kv motors instead of the 1000kv.
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Old Oct 13, 2010, 06:18 PM
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I have already bought the motors. I've got two Turnigy 2826 1900kv http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=2110
It looks like they are similar to the AXI 2208. I'm almost done with the head and neck. I always save the wings for last. How many of you put the 2 oz of lead in the nose like the plans call for? It just seems like a lot of lead!

Salty
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Old Oct 14, 2010, 06:38 PM
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I put a lot of lead in the nose to get the CG right. I left one piece of the head open until the model was completely built and covered, then ballanced with lead, and glued the last of the head and added the last piece of covering. It's necessary, don't fret too much about it, it was necessary to make the proportions right.
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Old Oct 14, 2010, 06:40 PM
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Those motors should be great.
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Old Oct 14, 2010, 07:12 PM
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Based on my experience (admittedly with the larger version) you don't want to be short on lead in the nose. You definitely do not want a too rear CG. Been there, done that - not an enjoyable experience...

So don't be tempted to move the CG rear of the recommended position to save a bit of weight - at least until after you have actually flown your creation.

Tim
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Old Oct 17, 2010, 05:43 AM
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I agree with all of the above. Put all the necessary lead you need in the head and it will pay off.Being short coupled you can't afford to get the C of G wrong.
Andrew
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Old Nov 16, 2010, 04:01 PM
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I'm at the part of the build where I need to mount the motors. I was wondering how others did it. Did you use nylon screws? Also for the push rods, what brand and size did you use? Thanks for the help

Salty
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Old Nov 16, 2010, 04:20 PM
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I used some regular screws that were of the proper lenght to get through the plywood. I did not use the x plate that came with the motor. I think motor mounting is open to creativity depending on what motors you use.

Pushrods, I used some dubro parkflyer pushrods that come with tubes. That keeps the pushrods from flexing. On the ailerons I simply used piano wire from the hardware store.
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Old Nov 17, 2010, 09:40 AM
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Can you get to the screws in the back of the motor now that it's built and finished?

Salty
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Old Nov 17, 2010, 11:35 AM
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No, the way I built it, the motors are there for the durration of the model. As I recall, there wasn't enough room to use the x-mounts with the 28mm motors I bought. x-mounts would have allowed front access.
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