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Old Jun 25, 2008, 11:56 AM
Registered User
Cary, NC
Joined Oct 2006
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On using wax on molds

I read that, for good release, I have to apply several coats of wax on the mold (then follow up with PVA). Maybe a stupid question, but here it comes - you don't buff the wax between the coats right? If you buff it you remove it (or 99% of it), so you can't build up the layers (if I buff the second layer it will most likely go the the thickness of the first buffed layer, right?)

Now, if you don't buff it then all the shine in that mold is gone...

So... what am I missing?

Thanks,
Mihai
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Old Jun 25, 2008, 12:20 PM
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Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
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You will need to buff between coats. That is why multiple coats are needed to get adequate build up. I usually do 8 coats of wax on a new mold.

I get the best build up by doing 2 coats of wax (buffing in between each coat) and then waiting one hour. Then do another 2 coats, wait 1 hour, 2 coats, wait 1 hour, etc.

Adam
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Old Jun 25, 2008, 02:23 PM
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Is regular turtle wax ok for a Krylon spray paint finish? Or should I put a clear coat over the krylon?
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Old Jun 25, 2008, 02:33 PM
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Cary, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyowindworks
You will need to buff between coats. That is why multiple coats are needed to get adequate build up. I usually do 8 coats of wax on a new mold.

I get the best build up by doing 2 coats of wax (buffing in between each coat) and then waiting one hour. Then do another 2 coats, wait 1 hour, 2 coats, wait 1 hour, etc.

Adam
Thanks, I use Mother's Carnauba's wax (California Gold). Any idea how long to wait between the application and the buff (for the first coat)? I also need to revise the buffing action - I think that I'd remove the second coat when I buff it - probably have to buff it lighter than I do it.

Thanks again,
Mihai
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Old Jun 26, 2008, 01:34 AM
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Cody, WY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mihai
Thanks, I use Mother's Carnauba's wax (California Gold). Any idea how long to wait between the application and the buff (for the first coat)? I also need to revise the buffing action - I think that I'd remove the second coat when I buff it - probably have to buff it lighter than I do it.

Thanks again,
Mihai
I do all my buffing with very firm pressure.

Adam
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Old Jun 26, 2008, 02:57 AM
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Paine Field
Joined Apr 2004
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Yeah, why the chicken would I be a Cantelope head and apply 10 stinking coats of hard to rub on and buff off wax when my 2 year old daughter can do the entire job with little supervision in less than 3!

What you don't understand, since you have never done this before, is that your mold will get "seasoned" and actually feel different to touch after a certain amount of use. It will feel slippery er , whatever that means.

And then, you don't need to take all the precautions you took at first, however you define them.

On my next mold, I am really going to cut back on the waxing of the plug and mold, probably let my neighbors 2 year old boy do it, he has lots of energy, which I am absolutely convinced translates in a linear relationship to a job well done.

Actually, I spray on some thinned PVA,(with alcohol, not rubbing) in three coats, and have never ever broken the PVA layer, which is why you wax in the first place, in case you nick the PVA somehow.

So maybe no more than 5 coats of wax for me, but I have very close control of what I am doing, no cats, wives or kids in the shop, and I am very meticulas by nature.

You will need to find out what works for yourself.
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Old Jun 26, 2008, 09:04 AM
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San Diego
Joined Mar 2005
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It depends on the mold surface. If you have alot of tiny holes, it will take more wax to build-up the holes even with the mold surface.

If the mold has a perfect finish, one coat of wax will suffice.

For the record, using Mother's California Gold, I don't let it dry before buffing. Use the same cloth to buff every time.

Sean
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Old Jun 26, 2008, 10:53 AM
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Cody, WY
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Once my mold is "seasoned", I wax only every 5 uses. I do use one coat of PVA on every use.

Adam
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Old Jun 26, 2008, 11:00 PM
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Cary, NC
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Thank you for the advice. Now I have to go back to buffing my 7th coat . Firmly .

Mihai
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Old Jun 27, 2008, 01:17 AM
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Paine Field
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Another thing you might be missing is that the surface of the mold depends on the surface of the plug you made the mold from.

And you could have pinholes in your mold from airbubbles in the material you build the mold from.

Now we are getting into specefic procedures of how you are building building your mold, and anything I might suggest will conflict with what other people think is "best".

Depending on how good you want your finished parts to be, you might want to find someone (a Master) to mentor you. You can't just come on to these forums and ask 100 people for their best advice, as they all "know what is best". You need to adapt someones process, at least until you figure out what is going on. Or, you can develop your own process, a real pain in the Avacodo.

But there are a couple of thousand people who have perfected a process to get results that stand above the rest. If you are lucky, one of them is in your club, if not, this is a really good place to find that person.

Good luck!
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Last edited by Thermal Miester; Jun 27, 2008 at 01:43 AM.
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