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Old Jun 07, 2012, 10:44 AM
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ricoalonso's Avatar
USA, KS, Derby
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Originally Posted by cbarnettone View Post
I'm actually using the stock main shaft. It is just the the aluminum head block is shorter, so that brings the rotor disc down quite a bit. I did have to find shorter links to the swash though. As for the shakes, I have them too! I have just learned to feed in positive collective on spool down, and that seems to eliminate most of the problem. Hope this helps!
I see... so, I don't really need a new main shaft. That's good. Yes, I am doing the positive collective too , or like doing a short auto during landing so as to minimize it. I guess I am expecting something smoother without worrying much about it. Thanks for the info. It helps a lot.

Rico.
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Old Jun 07, 2012, 09:36 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
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Originally Posted by ricoalonso View Post
I see... so, I don't really need a new main shaft. That's good. Yes, I am doing the positive collective too , or like doing a short auto during landing so as to minimize it. I guess I am expecting something smoother without worrying much about it. Thanks for the info. It helps a lot.

Rico.
Hey Rico,

I forgot one other thing I have done to my heli to reduce the shakes. I boiled my landing gear and widened them about an inch. I actually widened them slightly more in front so that the tail would stay off the ground. I don't think it helped much, but I do like the stance better.
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 06:49 AM
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Thanks, cbarnettone.

I may try that too but will be my last resort... boiling plastic in water is not my expertise last time I did that I warped it

Rico.
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 07:36 AM
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Georgia, USA
Joined Jan 2008
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When I had the plastic head on my Swift I started running the blades tight and it greatly reduced the chicken dance on spool down. I still had to pay s bit of attention to collective management at the end
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 09:04 AM
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USA, KS, Derby
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At some time, I actually eliminated the shake and that was after I added that spacer in between the main gear and the tail drive gear. I actually tought it was already solved. I would land and forget about it just wait for the blade to stop. Then, I stored my heli for 2 months. After that the shake came back.

I am currently doing maintenance on it and going to replace the bearings in the tail grips and main grips. Then will make sure to rebalance everything.

One thing I am thinking right now is this: Would it be possible that it needs sufficient oil in the featherign shaft to allow it horizontally slide thru the rubber dampener? Just thinking... that if the feathering shaft has the ability to slide to either side then it will be able to self-align and center itself when the blades are rotating. I thought of this because when I disassembled the head, it was totally dry and sticky may have been causing the whole blade-feathering-shaft-blade slightly off-center from the main shaft but could not realign because it got stuck.

I'll see when I get it all back... I'll make sure to put sufficient oil on it.
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ricoalonso View Post
At some time, I actually eliminated the shake and that was after I added that spacer in between the main gear and the tail drive gear. I actually tought it was already solved. I would land and forget about it just wait for the blade to stop. Then, I stored my heli for 2 months. After that the shake came back.

I am currently doing maintenance on it and going to replace the bearings in the tail grips and main grips. Then will make sure to rebalance everything.

One thing I am thinking right now is this: Would it be possible that it needs sufficient oil in the featherign shaft to allow it horizontally slide thru the rubber dampener? Just thinking... that if the feathering shaft has the ability to slide to either side then it will be able to self-align and center itself when the blades are rotating. I thought of this because when I disassembled the head, it was totally dry and sticky may have been causing the whole blade-feathering-shaft-blade slightly off-center from the main shaft but could not realign because it got stuck.

I'll see when I get it all back... I'll make sure to put sufficient oil on it.
I have also found that keeping the dampers well oiled with a silicone based grease to really help.

I also made four plates from 1/16" aluminum, that attach above and below the top of the struts, that go across the mainframe sides eliminated any dancing.

Each of these plates is 3/8" x 3", with holes drilled at each end for the landing gear attachment bolts to pass through.
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 12:01 PM
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USA, KS, Derby
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Originally Posted by rotoraddict View Post
I have also found that keeping the dampers well oiled with a silicone based grease to really help.

I also made four plates from 1/16" aluminum, that attach above and below the top of the struts, that go across the mainframe sides eliminated any dancing.

Each of these plates is 3/8" x 3", with holes drilled at each end for the landing gear attachment bolts to pass through.
Glad to know that. As for aluminum braces at landing gear... that maybe something I will also consider. I see those 4 ears in the landing gear where the tail brace is attached at the rear... those will be good places to attached the braces across.

Thanks.
Rico.
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 12:01 PM
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New Smyrna Beach, FL
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That's interesting. That mod in itself eliminated the shakes? Got a picture?
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 03:53 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
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Originally Posted by mligosh View Post
That's interesting. That mod in itself eliminated the shakes? Got a picture?
I'd be interested in a picture too. Having a hard time visualizing this.
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by cbarnettone View Post
I'd be interested in a picture too. Having a hard time visualizing this.
I will try to get some pictures but is is relatively simple. Think of making four rectangular plates that measure 3/8" wide by 3" long of aluminum that is 1/16 or 1.5mm thick (I would guess you could also use G-10 or C/F).

Then mark the distance from hole to hole, that the landing gear bolts are located on the bottom of the frame and drill out with a 3.2mm drill (or equivalent).

Then remove the landing gear and remount with one across the lower frame, on the top of the front strut, and another below the front strut.

Do the same with the rear strut.
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 07:39 AM
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cdbarnett's Avatar
Fortville, IN
Joined Feb 2007
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If anyone is interested I have a Swift NX Flybarless airframe, motor and blades for sale. Price is negotiable.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1694892

Thanks!
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 03:54 PM
AMA# SIMAGES
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Hudson Valley
Joined Dec 2006
2,333 Posts
It's been a while, but I just pulled the trigger on the AH-1F eCobra kit and will model it into a NASA Cobra AH-1G.
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I hear you.... still need some research, but want something different for sure. Before I fell into this sale I wanted to build the Approach Engineering eSuper Cobra, then design it into the NASA Cobra AH-1G. Which I still might do.......
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Last edited by simages; Oct 29, 2012 at 05:20 AM. Reason: anal retentive correction
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 11:21 PM
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Utah
Joined Sep 2009
499 Posts
Nice! I have the Approach AH-1W kit. I started it thinking to install Gaui 550 mechanics; then picked up a nice used Swift16 to put in instead. The Gaui is just too tall to make it fit.

Then had a bunch of medical issues and I'm only just back to flying my FP's and Coax's.

Looking forward to seeing a build thread for your Cobra!

The Approach kits are very nice! The wood in my kit was very good to excellent and there was no problems with different thickness or texture in the pieces.

Ciao,
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 08:47 PM
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Joined Dec 2007
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I have one Swift 16, set up for use with 5S packs, that is already mounted in a the scale Century Coast Guard A109A fuselage and another, set for higher head speed and for use with a 6S pack, that I used for 3D.

Now I have a new Swift NX set up for 3D on the 6s packs (and loving it), so I was looking for a scale subject for my Swift 16 that was my previous 3D 550 electric. Because I was so happy with the Century A-109A, I was looking at the their 30/550 size Jet Ranger.

As I have enjoyed building a number of R/C scale balsa airplanes in the past, this AH-1 looks very interesting. Looking forward to your impressions of this project as you guys proceed with it.
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 08:47 AM
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Florida
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Hey Cyclick. I am considering that same Jet Ranger for a Swift 16. Are they known to fit?
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