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Old Sep 07, 2010, 01:16 AM
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stretch vibration

I think the tail belt tension is ok: not ringing in the boom but not Protos' tight.

Next thing to fix is the gear mesh. I think the one sided tight mesh is one of the problems.
I'll get some 620 boom supports coming in the next parts order.

Thanks all,
Doug B.
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by rp181 View Post
I may want to get a Swift 620SE in the future. Would it be feasible to carry 10S 5000mah, or 6000mah, with the 620 10S power package, flybarless? What kind of flight times would I get with a low head speed? Most aggressive action would be FFF.
I use the Century 650 motor with their 85HV ESC using 10S/5000/30C packs on my 620SE - my favorite heli of all time!!

I find its' stock CNC rotor head with the 4mm flybar system flies great, better then some FBL systems I have flown.
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 02:31 AM
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United States, OK, Oklahoma City
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Originally Posted by rp181 View Post
Ok. I put them on, only to have them pop off, need some bigger screws!

I may want to get a Swift 620SE in the future. Would it be feasible to carry 10S 5000mah, or 6000mah, with the 620 10S power package, flybarless? What kind of flight times would I get with a low head speed? Most aggressive action would be FFF.
They are only going to be as good as the weakest link, and if the ends are sketchy, consider replacing them with 3mm ball links. Use JB Weld to install about a 1" section of 3mm threaded rod into the ends of the CF tubing, then wrap the ends in nylon thread with CA to help prevent splitting for extra credit.

Alternatively, I found the boom supports for the T-Rex 600 to be a good replacement. They make ends in assorted colors of anodized aluminum and the CF tubing is slightly larger in diameter.
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 06:07 AM
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Cyclick: What kind of flight times do you get?
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 08:02 AM
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Well, I went to fly my 6S full bling Swift again today. HORRIBLE viration. Turns out the swash developed play. Not between the ball and mainshaft, or between the ball and white nylon. It is in the upper part that spins, betweent the metal that the ball links attach to, and the nylon insert. Hmm... I put a 3mm grub screw in the extra hole in the swash and ALL the play is gone. I wonder if I can just leave it like that? I flew out the 2 packs without issue. I will order a new one, but what does everyone think? Really nothing to fail if you look at it closely. Opinions?
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 08:07 AM
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I wonder if that inner part is changeable between the plastic outer swash version and this one? The inner part looks the same.
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 11:08 AM
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Since it is a drop-in replacement and should not alter the geometry of your head setup, I would throw a new one on.
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Greybird View Post
Well, I went to fly my 6S full bling Swift again today. HORRIBLE viration. Turns out the swash developed play. Not between the ball and mainshaft, or between the ball and white nylon. It is in the upper part that spins, betweent the metal that the ball links attach to, and the nylon insert.
Where did you see the vibration?

Doug B.
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 11:17 AM
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I discovered something interesting on my pre-flight of the Swift before flying this past Saturday. I recalled horrible pirouette response after flying it the last time so I spent some extra time going over the tail mechanics. I usually disconnect the tail control rod from the servo horn and move by hand to check for any problems, binding, etc... It was very stiff in spots and as I looked at the rod guide on the boom it had worked its way up to the servo. When I moved it back to the middle it smoothed it out. Two flights on Saturday confirmed it was much smoother turning and the tail was holding while doing stationary back-flips. Other than that my Swift is so trouble-free and gets flown every-time I go the the club field. My new 250 is proving much more difficult in getting a solid tail setup dialed in!
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 11:54 AM
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I wonder if that inner part is changeable between the plastic outer swash version and this one? The inner part looks the same.
I went with 100% metal.
Rick
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 07:37 PM
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This is the 100% metal one.
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 07:45 PM
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Where did you see the vibration?

Doug B.
Entire heli shaking. Not vibrating.
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rp181 View Post
Ok. I put them on, only to have them pop off, need some bigger screws!

I may want to get a Swift 620SE in the future. Would it be feasible to carry 10S 5000mah, or 6000mah, with the 620 10S power package, flybarless? What kind of flight times would I get with a low head speed? Most aggressive action would be FFF.
600 to 620 blades will carry a 5 Ah pack with no problem at all. How they would fit in the 620's frame I couldn't tell you, but my Logo 600 will do 12 minutes of mild flying on 600s at 2K RPM, putting 70-75% back in.

Something I'd suggest for anyone stretching the Swift 16, by the way, is a Raven hub and grips for the tail, with 88-92mm blades. Even on 550s, the stock blades are too soft for the tail, and the longer blades will torque one of the screw heads off sooner or later, without question. Just a note....

Greybird, JMO, but I'd hesitate to fly a big heli with a swash that wanted to come apart, especially if I'd already made up my mind to replace it.
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 11:30 PM
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Entire heli shaking. Not vibrating.
Wow. How many flights on that swash?

Doug B.
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Old Sep 07, 2010, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by osterizer View Post
Something I'd suggest for anyone stretching the Swift 16, by the way, is a Raven hub and grips for the tail, with 88-92mm blades. Even on 550s, the stock blades are too soft for the tail, and the longer blades will torque one of the screw heads off sooner or later, without question. Just a note....
I'm using the triple bearing tail hub upgrade on my stretch. Not sure if it is the same as the Raven? I also picked up a set of KBDD 84.5mm tail blades. I'm back to running the stock blades until I iron out my vibration problem.

Doug B.
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