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Old Oct 27, 2008, 07:25 PM
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USA, MI, Harrison Township
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I am having difficulty with the page setup trying to print to .pdf file using pdf995. Does anyone know if the free version has a 53inch page size limit? When I try to print, even though the layout and paper size are selected to 36x96inch, the printout is always cutting off at 36x53 inch on all 3 plan sheets with blank page for the remainder. I have tried to print this on both of my computers now with the same effect. I managed to get .pdf files just using the save as command to .pdf but it shows viewport boundaries and other things I don't really want it to. I sent the files off to get printed somewhere with those files but would like to figure out how to get a real printout from it at some point.
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Old Nov 03, 2008, 05:50 PM
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I have the plans printed out now. They showed up in the mail while I was away for the weekend. I used a guy selling plotting service on ebay who's user name is plotservice. They came scaled correctly on the first try and the price was reasonable. $30 including shipping for 3 36"x96" sheets (I have more cross-sections and things on the plans that are necesary. I will finalize and clean up the plans as I build it and maybe if I am lucky get it published somewhere.) Time to start cutting out the parts now to get ready for the glue to hit on dec 1st.
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Old Nov 05, 2008, 07:46 PM
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I started making some part templates for the ribs with freezer wrap paper. This weekend I will hopefully get some ribs cutout and have some parts finally. Other then the wing ribs and fin and stab ribs there really aren't too many pre-made parts for this thing other then sticks.
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Old Nov 05, 2008, 07:56 PM
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Redding,California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanPSU21
I started making some part templates for the ribs with freezer wrap paper. This weekend I will hopefully get some ribs cutout and have some parts finally. Other then the wing ribs and fin and stab ribs there really aren't too many pre-made parts for this thing other then sticks.
Looks like a good start on the parts cutting Ryan and the freezer paper looks like it is working well. Will you glue stick to balsa or what's your favorite method of cutting/transfer?

Mike
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Old Nov 05, 2008, 08:03 PM
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Freezer wrap paper has one waxy side and one side that is uncoated similar to normal paper. You just trace onto the normal paper side. Then you can iron the waxy side onto the balsa wood using a covering iron. It will stick so you can cut the parts out and then just peel it off with no glue gunk or anything else left behind.
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Old Nov 08, 2008, 08:10 PM
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I took a good chunk out of cutting wing ribs today and got about half of them cutout. The root ribs are really large now that I have them cutout. They are 16 inches long and just barely under 3 inches in height. It seemed for the first few ribs out I almost needed a hole sheet just to cut each one. Some parts now exist for this thing.

I also got 2 sets of Pettigrew Plans this week in the mail. The Lancaster and PBY Catalina to look at for construction ideas. The Catalina is really really tempting me right now to build but I am going to hold myself back and keep going on the Maryland for the time being anyways.
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Old Nov 09, 2008, 03:28 PM
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Today I got the rest of the wing ribs cutout along with the vertical stab and rudder ribs. I will try to get the horizontal stab and elevator ribs cutout this week. That will make up 99% of the cutout parts on this that aren't just coming from stick. I left the spar notches just marked with pin holes on the wing ribs as I think I will go with quite a bit smaller spars then I originally drew.

Right now the spars come together at an angle in top view. I did this trying to space the spars at the area where the wheels retract into the wing since the wheel goes right where you would normally put the spar. I am a bit uncertain how to handle the joint here at the center right now. I had a Stampe biplane before way back when that did this that just put a balsa black against them. I am thinking of taking the ply joiner that I drew up and just sanding the spars down in the center section to a smooth curve that the 1/16" plywood can go around. This plane won't be real heavy for it's wing area and it's going to have 2 spar sets with shearwebs so I think that should probably be sufficient for the joint.
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Old Nov 29, 2008, 03:29 PM
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The glue hit the wood today and I've got part of one fuselage side made. I still need to do the diagonals which will still get done today.
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Old Nov 30, 2008, 12:14 PM
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Nice start Ryan. Looking good. Course it is even faster if the parts are laser cut. My hand cramps too much when I do that. Well back to mine.
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Old Nov 30, 2008, 02:55 PM
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This thing is going to be 100% #11 blade cut with a few plywood parts getting some other form of hand saw. No laser going on here. At most the laser would only be cutting the wing ribs and a few fuselage top and bottom bulkheads which are all easy to cut out by hand parts. It wouldn't save much time on this plane to do the lasering. It would probably have taken more time to setup the files for laser cutting then it has been to just hand cut the parts.
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Old Nov 30, 2008, 03:05 PM
Two left thumbs
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It's good to know I'm not the only one who isn't using laser cutting, however I'm using scalpels more than X-acto blades. (Sharper, do less ripping when they slice through fingers) And good to see a little-known plane being modeled. Keep up the good work!

Geoff
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Old Nov 30, 2008, 04:42 PM
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Thanks.

I'll go through atleast a 100 pack of #11's on this. I just started a new pack yesterday so I'll see how many are left when I get to the end. I bought a new razor saw blade yesterday which was badly needed. I think the last one I bought maybe 15 years ago and it could still cut barely. That one atleast makes the stick cutting much easier.

I also find I am just barely tolerating CA these days so the current style of laser cutting the parts and assemble with tabs and then dump a bottle of CA into the mess is something that isn't to enjoyable for me. I find titebond much more pleasant to use so my structure is more designed for that construction method.
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Old Nov 30, 2008, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanPSU21
I also find I am just barely tolerating CA these days so the current style of laser cutting the parts and assemble with tabs and then dump a bottle of CA into the mess is something that isn't to enjoyable for me. I find titebond much more pleasant to use so my structure is more designed for that construction method.
Personally I enjoy the tab building method, and one can still use titebond. I dont use a ton of CA and usually have a fine tip for direct application.
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Old Nov 30, 2008, 05:45 PM
Two left thumbs
Muncie, IN
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I'm almost surprised that Scratchnhover, who's a carpenter by trade, didn't get Titebond as a sponsor! Most of my glue joints are with either Titebond or Ambroid. Ya gotta be an Old Fart to know about Ambroid, though.

Geoff
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Old Nov 30, 2008, 06:43 PM
Übung macht den Meister..
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United States, OR, Fairview
Joined Jul 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffinpdx
I'm almost surprised that Scratchnhover, who's a carpenter by trade, didn't get Titebond as a sponsor! Most of my glue joints are with either Titebond or Ambroid. Ya gotta be an Old Fart to know about Ambroid, though.

Geoff
Haha! I wouldn't say I'm an old fart, but Pa learnt me on Ambroid! I still use it when I can find it. I've been repairing my '78 vintage Q-Tee with Ambroid, and it was originally built mostly with Hot Stuff...

James
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