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Old Nov 29, 2009, 07:36 PM
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I started working on the rudder and elevator hinges. I went with some Robart Hingepoints and think I've got pretty good results out of them. I am just not quite sure how to do a wire pin at this stage and still be able to guide it the entire way up the rudder. For the rudder I did hingepoints and set the pivot point about a half inch out from the trailing edge of the fin which allows decent throw of the rudder. Then put some balsa fairings on them so it kind of sort of looks like a scale hinge. For the elevator I just stuck the hinge points in along the trailing edge since the elevator bellcrank is already there and dictating the hinge pivot location. I am going to cut some slots into the elevator not at the hinge location and make non-functional kind of sort of scale looking hinges. I've used Sig Easy Hinges (CA Hinges) on every plane I've ever built but I really like working with the Hingepoints so far.

On a whim this weekend after realizing I haven't built a sportplane for a while and realizing I am kind of lacking in anything fast or fast looking anyways, ordered a BalsaUSA Enforcer kit. The Martin Maryland is at the point where it doesn't really ever need to be on the board and I usually build 2 planes at once alternating when I get stuck or bored with one.
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Old Nov 29, 2009, 08:31 PM
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Hooo, boy, that thing's got a fat rudder post! Doesn't it bind with the upper hinge out of line with the rest, or is that an optical illusion?

Geoff
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Old Nov 29, 2009, 09:48 PM
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The top hinge is only out of alignment by a degree or so. It's not as bad as the picture makes it look. It moves pretty good as is but I'm still going to straighten it a little bit still. I still need to add some backing blocks in on the fin post. 1/4" balsa probably isn't quite enough bite for the hinges since that only covers one notch on the hinge.
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Old Dec 02, 2009, 12:25 PM
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To guide the full length pin through the rudder (or elevator - or ailerons!) I used either brass tube between the hinges (and a slight kink in the wire so it has some friction to hold it in place) or the plastic insulation stripped from electrical wire which can provide too much friction if not careful!
It's easy to instal early in construction, but it looks a bit late for you now!

That DOES look a thick fin though - presumably it is that thick in the 1:1?
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Old Dec 02, 2009, 06:49 PM
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I struggled a lot when drawing the plans of exactly how wide the back end of the fuselage should be. It looks fat in the 1 3view I could find. I later on got a better set of drawings well after the fuselage was built and it's not as fat on the better set of drawings. In the model at the base it's 1.75inch thick and the fin+rudder is 10.5inches long at the lengthiest part. The airfoil is about 16.5%. On the full scale in the better drawings I have, the rear of the fuselage is about 12inches thick. In 1/9scale it should be 1.3inches with a length of 96inches so the airfoil should be about 12.5%. It's a little thick but since 15% airfoils are not that uncommon in trainers and non-fast flyers so it shouldn't be a problem for flying.
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Old Dec 03, 2009, 03:29 PM
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Shouldn't be a problem for the model, but maybe that extra bit of drag was the reason most of the RAF Marylands got used in the desert... though contra to that I seem to recall there was a story about some stripped down ones being used for reccy.
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Old Dec 03, 2009, 04:07 PM
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Do you know if there are any Maryland's still floating around on your side of the pond in any museum's anywhere? I haven't found any at all recent pictures of anything over here or in English language anyways. Just wondering if you happen to know if there are any around in France.
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Old Dec 04, 2009, 09:49 AM
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I don't know of any, but that's nothing!
No doubt you are well aware of the Maryland aviation museum near Baltimore.
Apparently they have quite a few aircraft preserved - but at a glance I couldn't see if there was a Maryland among them.
France is another thing... could well be one lurking around in a corner somewhere for all I know - most that didn't die in the desert ended their service careers there.

You might find examples closer to home listed here:
http://www.thirtythousandfeet.com/museums.htm
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 05:35 PM
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I am back at work on this plane now. My Enforcer is about 80% finished http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1152315 and a few hours from covering so I'm getting back to this and will work on this until the middle of March or it gets finished, whichever comes first. I am hoping really hard to get rid of my house by the end of March so I would like to get them both up to covering stage by then.

I cleaned up the wingtips today on it an seperated the ailerons out and got the leading edge put on the aileron and the trailing edges on the wing. This step went much faster then it seems to normally take me to do this.
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Old Jan 25, 2010, 03:34 PM
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Welcome back!
Wondered what had been happening!
Nice to see some progress again.
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Old Jan 26, 2010, 09:12 PM
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I got the fuselage belly stretched an inch to match the fuselage and attached to the wing bottom. I'm running out of tasks quickly now until the covering goes on.
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Old Jan 28, 2010, 08:40 PM
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I finished up the belly pan and filled in the 1 inch gap and the corners.

I started drawing up parts for the nacelles. Originally I wanted to vacumn form. At this point I think I am going to do the plane without vacumn forming at first and go back and learn vacumn forming this summer. It will just have a balsa or foam block canopy and nose for now and hopefully something transparent later in the summer.

To crutch the nacelles I'm planning on making an X-shaped part that I will put 1/4" sheet rings around. Then sheet and brake out the X-shaped brace.
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Old Jan 31, 2010, 02:16 PM
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I got a good chunk of the nacelle's done this weekend. I just need to go pick up some 1/2" thick balsa to cut out the front 2 layers of ring and then do some sanding.
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Old Feb 02, 2010, 06:18 PM
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I finished cutting the parts for the front of the nacelles tonight. 24 bits to make the 3 layers of rings. I wanted to do 2, 1/2" rings but the LHS didn't have any light looking 1/2" sheet so I went for 2 layers of 3/8" and 1 layer of 1/4" which means 24 parts to cut out. This is on top of 16 similar parts cutout for the 2 rings built into the nacelle's already. I have had my fill of cutting out 1/4 rings for the next few years.
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Old Feb 06, 2010, 04:45 PM
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I've got one nacelle sanded down now atleast to the high grit sandpaper level. The discs are glued down on the other and will get sanded later tonight. Then back to more fun parts of the plane again finally.
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