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Cermark 39" Katana ARF Review

Michael Heer reviews this beautiful three tone blue and white Katana from Cermark from arrival through assembly and into flight and likes what he finds.

Splash

Introduction


Wingspan:39"
Wing Area:314 sq in
Weight:26 oz.
Length:35"
Propeller:APC 11 x 5E
Servos:4 Hitec 55
Transmitter:JR 7202
Receiver:Berg 4L
Battery:Polyquest 3-cell 1800mAh pack
Motor:Cermark 2820/1200 brushless outrunner
ESC:Castle Creations Phoenix 35
Propeller:APC 11 x 5 electric
Manufacturer:Cermark
Available From:Cermark
Price:$99.99 Katana kit
Price:$59.95 Cermark 2820/1200 brushless motor

I have flown a couple flat foamie 3-D planes and an IFO but not being an indoor 3-D pilot, I usually fly them as a standard aerobatic planes with only a few 3-D tricks. I had been looking to get a scale 3-D plane for some time, and when I got the chance to review the Cermark One-Meter Series Katana, I jumped at the chance.

I am aware of three planes in the One-Meter Series: the Edge 540, the Yak 54 and the Katana. I knew what the plane would look like from the Cermark website, but it was even prettier in person when I opened the box. I will cover the assembly fairly quickly and then get out to the field and fly the Katana.

NOTE: This is Version 2 of the Katana. In this version, the wing has gone from a one-piece wing to a two-piece wing (as shown in this review). Additionally, the plane has gone on a diet: Thanks to laser cutting, it is considerably lighter then the first version.

Kit Contents

There is a low part count for this kit. The parts are all well made and light. The fuselage is potentially fragile if crashed, but the plane is designed and intended for experienced pilots so its light fuselage should not be a problem.

Cermark supplied both the Katana kit and the motor for this review. I bought the Phoenix 35 speed controller, four Hitec 55 servos, the Berg 4L receiver, the Azarr antenna and the Polyquest 1800mAh 3-cell battery pack.

The Parts:

  • Two wing halves built and covered with unattached ailerons
  • Assembled and covered fuselage
  • Assembled and covered horizontal stabilizer and unattached elevator halves
  • Assembled vertical stabilizer and separate rudder
  • Wing rod and mounting bolts
  • CA hinges, control rods and control arms
  • Wooden motor mount and fiberglass cowl
  • Main landing gear and tail wheel
  • Generic one-meter series instruction manual
  • Velcro and assorted hardware

Items needed to finish the Katana:

  • Thin CA
  • 30 minute Epoxy
  • Loctite
  • 1/16 drill bit
  • Exacto knife
  • Small & medium Phillips screwdriver
  • Covering Iron
  • Soldering Iron
  • Solder
  • Heat shrink tubing
  • Andersen connectors for ESC to battery pack
  • Y connector for ailerons
  • 2 six to twelve-inch servo extension wires
  • 11 x 5 electric APC propeller

Assembly

My first step was to touch up the covering with my Monocoat covering iron where some wrinkles had developed. Unfortunately, the covering pulled away when I was removing tape from the horizontal stabilizer. This tacked back down with the iron but, as seen in the picture below, the light blue had some white appear (double click on the picture to see the discoloration).

Wing

The wing comes assembled, and all I had to to was hinge the ailerons with CA hinges that slid into the existing hinge slots in both the wing and the ailerons. I cut away the covering over the servo mounts in each wing half and installed a Hitec 55 servo along with the included aileron control arm into the aileron per the manual. NOTE: My kit supplied connectors for the servo arms that the control rods slide into and then are tightened to lock. These were not mentioned in the instruction manual. A Z bend came in one end of control arms, and the rest was straight. All I had to do was measure and cut the control rods to the proper length which made for easy assembly. When I was later positive everything was where it should be I locked the connectors in place with Loctite. The same EZ style connectors were also supplied for the elevator and rudder.

 Hitec HS-55 Specs<br>
Hitec HS-55 Specs
Type: Sub-Micro Servo
Operating Speed (4.8V): 0.17 sec/60°
Stall Torque (4.8V): 15.27 oz-in.
Weight: 0.28oz (8g)
Dimensions: 0.89" x 0.45"x 0.94"
Connector Wire Length: 6.29"
Gear Type: All Nylon
Operating Voltage: 4.8-6.0 Volts


The wing installs mid-fuselage and is secured in place with two supplied black plastic bolts, one per wing side. This makes for quick assembly at the field for those who don't have room for the fully assembled plane in their car or for storage purposes.

Tail

The horizontal stabilizer fits in a slot in the rear of the fuselage. I measured several times to make sure it was properly centered using a piece of string from the wing tips and a ruler. I marked the covering, pulled it out of the fuselage and trimmed away the covering that would be inside the fuselage. I fitted the metal connector that linked both halves of the elevator into the slot and reinserted the horizontal stab (with bare wood inside the fuselage) back into the fuselage and added 30-minute epoxy to the bare wood top and bottom and slid it into place. I double checked the stab’s position and set it aside to have the epoxy dry. I checked it again after 15 minutes to make sure the stab hadn't moved (It hadn't) and then left it for another 1/2 hour for the glue to set up. While that dried I added hinges into the elevator halves and into the rudder. and secured them with thin CA. When the stabilizer was dry, I fit and added epoxy to glue the metal elevator connector into each half and slid the hinges into the stabilizer and secured it with thin CA. I double checked on the elevator connector wire before the epoxy had set up and made sure it was in the proper position.

The vertical stabilizer is epoxied into place after trimming away the covering that would be in the slot. HINT: Mount the tail wheel to the bottom front of the rudder. One small hole for the pin going up and a 1/16" hole for the screw that goes through the circle in the wire to secure the gear. Add a little CA to harden the wood. When those steps were done and dry, I added the rudder to the stabilizer and back of the plane with three CA hinges.

Fuselage

Landing Gear

With the stabilizers and control surfaces mounted per above, the main assembly with the fuselage was adding the landing gear and the motor with the motor mount. The landing gear pictured in the instruction manual was for a different plane but the wheels mounted to the supplied hardware in the same manner as that shown in the manual. The hardware mounted to the fuselage differently than they were pictured but it was very obvious how to do it, so see the pictures below. HINT: The elastic stop nuts are hard to get started using a screwdriver and wrench or pliers to hold the nut. I found holding the head of the bolt with a pair of pliers while turning the nut the first three or four turns to be much easier than using the Phillips head screwdriver. After those first turns the process can be finished with a screwdriver. HINT #2: If you fly off of grass or rough terrain you might not want to install the wheel pants. I fly off of flat surfaces so I installed them.

Mounting the Motor

Recommended motor: the Cermark 2820-1200 Brushless Outrunner

Motor specsCermark 2820.
Type: CEM 2820-1200
Motor Weight 84g
Diameter: 28mm
Length: 37mm
Output Shaft Size: 4mm
BATTERY: 3 cell 11.1V Lipo
Amp draw: 15-24A max
Prop: APC 11 x 5 electric
Voltage Used: 11.1V
KV: 1,200KV


The motor mount shown in the instructions was for a different plane in the One-Meter Series. The instructions show the motor mounting to the front of the motor mount, but the mount supplied to me would require the motor to be mounted inside the mount with just the propeller shaft extending forward through the mount. The problem was that the collar on the motor's propeller shaft didn't fit in the hole provided in the motor mount, and I was using the recommended motor that Cermark supplied.

MOTOR MOUNT SOLUTION: I stopped by RC Country hobby store in Sacramento and checked out another Cermark Katana kit, and it had the same motor mount that I had. With that knowledge, I reamed out the hole in mine for the collar to fit using my Exacto knife and mounted the Cermark motor inside the motor mount with the two longer bolts that game with the motor. (I will buy two more in the near future.) With the motor mounted inside the motor mount I fitted the motor mount to the front of the fuselage and secured the motor mount with 30 minute epoxy after trial fitting the cowling over it.

Radio and ESC Installation

The servo wires on the Hitec 55 servos used with the ailerons were long enough to make it from the mounts in the wing into the fuselage. There I connected them via a small Y-connector into the aileron connector slot on my Berg 4L receiver. I used 2 twelve-inch servo extension wires to connect with the rudder and elevator servos in the rear of the fuselage. 9 inch wires would have been sufficient. I used an Azarr antenna wire to replace the majority of the receiver antenna wire so the entire wire could be kept in the fuselage without loss of range for this aerobatic 3D parkflyer. I used some of the included Velcro-like material to mount the receiver to the back of the tray in the front of the fuselage. I used more of the material in front of it and epoxied it in place to secure a battery between the front firewall and the receiver. This gave me room to shift the battery pack to get proper balance at the recommended Center of Gravity.

CASTLE CREATIONS BERG 4L

Number of channels Four
Sensitivity About 2.0uV

Weight (with wires) 4 grams
Crystal Berg micro only
Case None
Available at Castle Creations

I used a Phoenix 35 ESC, and the first thing I did was solder the male motor connectors that came with my Cermark motor to the ESC. They recommended a 30 amp ESC, and this ESC can easily handle the motor draw and its BEC can handle the 4 micro servos and the receiver draw with the 3s lipoly battery I will use. I used some heat shrink wrap from Radio Shack to cover the male connectors once they were attached to avoid a short circuit. The recommended battery size was a 3-cell Lipoly with 1320-2200mAhs of power (that is really quite a range). I went with an 1800mAh 3-cell Polyquest 20C pack to be in the middle for duration vs weight. Since it already had a Dean's connector on it I added a matching/mating connector to my ESC and soldered it in place. TIP: I wouldn't have obtained C/G without ballast if I had used a smaller battery. I could have used a 2200 or even a 2500 battery and still balanced the plane properly. I was very happy with the weight, power and duration of the 1800mAh Polyquest pack I used.

Completion

The canopy came installed and was held in place with magnets. HINT: Ignore the instructions on how to secure the canopy. They have improved the process, and it arrives installed.

Using my drill and a 1/16 drill bit I drilled four small holes in the side of the cowling at the front sides of the fuselage and secured it with four small servo mounting screws that I had on hand from a previous project. I added the prop adaptor that came with the Cermark motor to the propeller shaft and placed an 11 x 5 electric APC propeller on it and tightened it in place. The assembly was complete.

I turned on my JR transmitter and powered up the receiver and servos and centered them, adjusting them mechanically and finally by electric trim to their proper positions. Satisfied with their positions, I used Loctite on the metal servo arm connectors so they wouldn't work themselves loose in operation.

I positioned the battery pack to obtain the proper C/G balance on the wing spar.

This is a 3D plane and it has recommended control surface throws for normal flying (low rate throws) and 3D flying (high rate throws). Mechanically, I went with the high rate throws from the get go.

Controls Low Rates High Rates

  • Ailerons: 1/2" up and down 1" up and down
  • Elevator: 1/2" up and down 1" up and down
  • Rudder: 3/4" left and right 1 1/2" left and right

Flying

Basics

For the first flight I used my computer transmitter and reduced the throws to the low rates. I made a slow and steady takeoff and flew the plane in a calm and sedate fashion for a full minute. It did everything very nicely. Then I threw the throttle full forward and started a nice climb. I killed the throttle and did a tail slide. While falling, I did a directional reversal with just the rudder and proceeded to do a series of 1/2 pipe tail slides that were great fun. Axial roll on low rates was fine but a little slower than I expected for a Katana. It required a bit of throttle to stay level for multiple rolls. The plane responded well, and any pilot with some aileron flying skills should have no problem flying the plane with low rates. The recommended C/G seemed perfect so I left it there on the wing spar for all review flights.

Cermark says the plane handles well in a little breeze, and it does. It has been to the field seven times, and five of those days were very calm, but the first day and the video day there was a breeze. I did get pushed a bit in a hover by the breeze but the plane stayed very solid and balanced otherwise.

Taking Off and Landing

Tina Turner and "Proud Mary" came to mind when I got to this section of the review. Takeoffs can be nice and easy and very scale like or they can be fast and rough and off the ground in ten feet or less. I like a nice long, smooth takeoff of about 30 feet, then the short quick jumps. I also prefer three leg landings most of the time, but I suspect this plane will seduce me into doing some very short trick landings at some point... .but not yet. It seems to want to fly forever so I have actually been killing power and gliding in for my landings as I have been using a baseball infield for my landing area and I have 120. I had to do a fly around the first couple of times as i was coming in hotter than I wanted despite a three leg approach. Once I adjusted for that it has been a pussycat to glide in and land.

Aerobatics/Special Flight Performance

After the first flight the throws were moved up to the high roll rate, and they have remained there for me ever since! I probably won't do the Katana complete justice here as I am a beginning 3-D pilot but I will describe how it handled the maneuvers I could do.

It can do loops large or small, inside or outside without a problem. It can hover very nicely with the recommended motor and 11 x 5E prop and rotates nicely in a hover as well. With high rates it can do very fast axial rolls and entered in a slight climb I maintained almost level flight through a string of four of them in a row. Inverted flight was easy and consistent (for some reason I have always had to fight myself to keep a plane inverted. It is my problem and not the plane’s.) The Katana makes nice "square" loops as well. It does a nice waterfall which is a move I learned on my IFO. It falls a little faster than the IFO but there is enough elevator to do the maneuver well with a little practice.

I learned the knife edge maneuver on the RealFlight simulator in the training section where Jim Bourke described and demonstrated the maneuver. The Katana did it just like the simulator. It does an impressive climb when given full throttle to leave the knife edge or the hover. Since I am a novice 3-D pilot I do all of my maneuvers at altitude with at least one mistake of recovery room.

The 3D Report Card!

As an admitted novice 3D pilot you might well have reason to question my sanity in requesting access to the 3d Report Card. I have not filled in all the items, I have only filled in those I have performed thus far. I have tried to judge the plane and not my ability. I hope in the future to come back and post more info on these maneuvers as I expand as a 3D pilot. Most of my maneuvers as discussed elsewhere were/are performed at an altitude allowing for one Mike screw up and recovery. All maneuvers were done on the High Rates settings. I want to thank Jim Bourke for teaching me how to Knife Edge: he did a nice job in RealFlight instruction, and the Katana does it great in person.




ManeuverGrade Notes
Hangar A The Katana hangs/hovers great! The 11 x 5e prop moves a lot of air over the tail surfaces.
Torque Roll A How many to you want to do?
High Alpha Level Flight A VERY NICE! Minimal wing rock.
High Alpha Inverted A+ Really stable and easy! Did I mention I battle a phobia about being inverted?
Flips (high alpha half loops) (Work in progress)
High Alpha Rolling A Again, very nice! Hope to be circling the field at will this fall while rolling.
High Alpha Knife Edge A+ WOW! She excelled here AFTER adding the rudder-to-elev mixing.
Stall Turns No grade, not yet sure if it is me or the plane but probably me as there is improvement.
Knife-edge-to-knife-edge turns Not Attempted (N/A)
Walk the Dog N/A
Tail-slide A- The less I control the better it goes but tail controls are so responsive...
Wall N/A
Flying Flat-Spin N/A
Waterfall/loopet B Not able to perform as smoothly as with my IFO and seems to drop faster.
Pinwheel N/A

Flight Video/Photo Gallery

The videos shown below were three short flights in a row by Jeff Hunter that I videotaped, and they were the only flights he has had on the plane thus far. The attempts of a friend to videotape my flights one day resulted in failure as the plane either disappeared out of the frame when he zoomed in or looked like an ant at a distance when he didn't zoom in on the plane. My thanks to Jeff for the assistance.

Downloads

Is This For a Beginner?

NO! First, it goes where pointed with no self correction features. Second, the fuselage is built very light to help secure the 3D aerobatic qualities of this plane. As shown in the photographs there is not a lot of wood in this frame. The design of the plane shows it is intended for a skilled pilot with intermediate or better skills. This plane is not for the beginner pilot. The intermediate or better pilot can fly the plane without a problem but the pilot just learning 3D might want to start with a foamie designed to take abuse or repair quickly. Or do as I am doing and do the maneuvers with some altitude as you learn. For the 3D pilot or the aerobatic pilot who just wants a responsive plane; this Katana is a blast.

Conclusion

The plane is designed for the intermediate to expert pilot and can be flown for full aerobatics or Pattern. From my limited experience it seems to be a very nice 3-D plane as well. Ignoring the instructions in places it was easy to assemble and I like the design and the manufacture of the parts. It makes a nice light plane that can easily be assembled in a day or a couple of nights. It is nice and tight, and while I plan to keep mine assembled, the wings can be easily removed or installed with the hand tightened black bolts.

The plane has just under an hour of flight time on it so far and shows no signs of damage or wear and tear.

Pluses

  • Nice light plane, covered better then I could do myself.
  • Construction of this ARF was well done, nice laser cutting.
  • Actual assembly was nice and quick except for working out my motor mount questions.
  • Recommended motor, propeller and size of ESC worked well together.
  • Plane handles and flies beautifully.

Minuses

  • One for all in series instructions were out dated and showed a different motor mount from that supplied.
  • Hole in motor mount for propeller shaft was too small for collar on recommended motor.
  • Covering on horizontal stabilizer started to pull away as I removed masking tape and white spots were added to the color.
Last edited by Angela H; Jul 09, 2008 at 05:39 PM..

Discussion

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Old Jul 09, 2008, 07:17 PM
Balsa just crashes better
Cub Fan's Avatar
Bradenton, FL
Joined Nov 2004
601 Posts
Nice review - Cermark has many good planes . I have a Cosmos & a Little Banshee- I like them both a lot.
The planes in this new series seem to be a great value and appear to fly very well- May be one of these in my hangar soon.

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Old Jul 09, 2008, 10:10 PM
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Angela H's Avatar
Nashville, TN
Joined Nov 2006
1,510 Posts
Here are Mike's recommendations for the manual!
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Old Jul 10, 2008, 01:37 PM
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theKM's Avatar
central PA.
Joined Sep 2004
20,206 Posts
I'm in the market for an aerobat like this and it certainly seems like a nice specimen, but I find myself at odds with the flight review, it's just so inconsistent. Being able to hover and torque roll no issue, but had to learn knife edge specifically for this review, lengthy details about controlling a tail slide and cannot do a stall turn. Stall turn, last time I looked was just climbing vertically and touching the rudder one way or the other before you stopped. Tail slides are an order of magnitude harder than stall turns. A novice at 3D, yet there's a mark for rolling harriers too (something where you have to coordinate every control surface). Saying that this gets a B on waterfalls because it drops faster than an IFO is completely absurd.

All in all, the flight review is just a wash for me. Maybe I can get lucky in Scott Stoops getting his mitts on it for FlyRC before I plonk the cash down.



A tip for the pics... auto adjust levels on some of those dimly lit ones, and maybe for the box and instructions shots, take them outside on a sunny day: all the extra light will help the camera and make a nicer shot. Pity that the flying shots are just video still, but prolly not much can be done about that.
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Old Jul 10, 2008, 02:10 PM
Don't lie to my dog.
Gregg28's Avatar
United States, DE, Wilmington
Joined Jun 2005
3,075 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by theKM
All in all, the flight review is just a wash for me. Maybe I can get lucky in Scott Stoops getting his mitts on it for FlyRC before I plonk the cash down.
I had heard from someone that I believe we both respect as a good flier (besides Stoops) that this plane flew "surprisingly well." I have been contemplating the Yak in this series. If I can hold off long enough, 3DHS will have a plane in this size which I will go for instead.
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Old Jul 10, 2008, 02:43 PM
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theKM's Avatar
central PA.
Joined Sep 2004
20,206 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregg28
I had heard from someone that I believe we both respect as a good flier (besides Stoops) that this plane flew "surprisingly well." I have been contemplating the Yak in this series. If I can hold off long enough, 3DHS will have a plane in this size which I will go for instead.
Throw in the Fiber Fusion stuff from Precision Aerobatics, they're certainly trying hard to help us dispose income. This Katana does seem like good value. I'm in no great rush though, my Tribute Fx keeps me happy.
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Old Jul 12, 2008, 08:48 PM
Terry Dunn
mopar_man's Avatar
United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Jan 2001
862 Posts
Sorry KM...youre out of luck. I reviewed this plane for FlyRC. It just hasnt printed yet, and may not ever (you never know). I have the older version with one-piece wing, but the plane seems essentially the same as the newer one. I dont (yet) have the finely-honed skills or well-known 3D pedigree of Stoops, so my personal comments probably wont help you any. However, I can tell you that Ben Fisher (3D Hobby Shop) flew mine the last time I saw him and he was quite impressed with its 3D abilities. He put on a good show with it. I give his opinion of this plane a lot of credibility because:
1. Ben is a great 3D pilot.
2. Cermark is one of his competitors.
FWIW,
Terry
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Old Jul 13, 2008, 01:35 AM
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theKM's Avatar
central PA.
Joined Sep 2004
20,206 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar_man
Sorry KM...youre out of luck. I reviewed this plane for FlyRC.
well, bummer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar_man
It just hasnt printed yet, and may not ever (you never know). I have the older version with one-piece wing, but the plane seems essentially the same as the newer one. I dont (yet) have the finely-honed skills or well-known 3D pedigree of Stoops, so my personal comments probably wont help you any. However, I can tell you that Ben Fisher (3D Hobby Shop) flew mine the last time I saw him and he was quite impressed with its 3D abilities. He put on a good show with it. I give his opinion of this plane a lot of credibility because:
1. Ben is a great 3D pilot.
2. Cermark is one of his competitors.
FWIW,
Terry
thanks for the info. I should go digging through the 3D forum and see if a thread is started about it.
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Old Jul 13, 2008, 11:19 AM
blucor basher's Avatar
United States, PA, Lancaster
Joined Jun 2003
24,141 Posts
Hey, there's that photo! that was at BEST right? Pretty fun day, if I remember right.

what events are you going to this fall, Terry?
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Old Jul 13, 2008, 02:52 PM
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aflipz's Avatar
all up in your grill
Joined Aug 2006
4,804 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregg28
... 3DHS will have a plane in this size which I will go for instead.

Talk to me!

I have an eflite 260 that recently got damaged in a radio glitch, its fixable but... She's like all dirty to me now Something about new and shiny, you know? I've been itching to give a 3Dhs plane a chance for a while now, but i don't want to have to up and purchase a 4S power system or even bigger... And i am not about to strip one of my PA's to equip anything else either! FiberFusion FTW!!!

I'd have a hard time restraining my credit card if 3Dhs had something in the "480" size range. (motor is a scorpion 3008-32)
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Old Jul 13, 2008, 03:11 PM
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andy walling's Avatar
USA, CA, Huntington Beach
Joined Aug 2006
240 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by aflipz
Talk to me!

I have an eflite 260 that recently got damaged in a radio glitch, its fixable but... She's like all dirty to me now Something about new and shiny, you know? I've been itching to give a 3Dhs plane a chance for a while now, but i don't want to have to up and purchase a 4S power system or even bigger... And i am not about to strip one of my PA's to equip anything else either! FiberFusion FTW!!!

I'd have a hard time restraining my credit card if 3Dhs had something in the "480" size range. (motor is a scorpion 3008-32)
Keep your eyes open for the new 3dhs Edge 540 in that size, I hear they will be killer...
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Old Jul 13, 2008, 03:27 PM
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all up in your grill
Joined Aug 2006
4,804 Posts
Oooh, my hangar needs an edge!

Hope it has enough side area, too often edge's are designed to be a little too "scale" to be great 3D performers. Eh, what am i saying? this is 3Dhs we are talking about right?
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Old Jul 13, 2008, 04:11 PM
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andy walling's Avatar
USA, CA, Huntington Beach
Joined Aug 2006
240 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by aflipz
Oooh, my hangar needs an edge!

Hope it has enough side area, too often edge's are designed to be a little too "scale" to be great 3D performers. Eh, what am i saying? this is 3Dhs we are talking about right?
I think that you will be pleasently surprised on the scale side and always the 3d side, Im sure it will be a great airplane, it's a 3dhs plane.

On a side note am stripping the gear out of my P.A. Extra 260 for a 3dhs Velox. Have problems with up right harrier but liked the rest of it. Like the way it flies light, but the Velox is my favorite.
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Old Jul 13, 2008, 04:16 PM
Fly it like you stole it..
Tram's Avatar
Florence, Al
Joined Oct 2000
29,310 Posts
Man, that Velox is seriously tempting...
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Old Jul 13, 2008, 05:26 PM
Wannabe 3D Pilot
flyracer's Avatar
USA, AZ, Chandler
Joined Nov 2006
1,199 Posts
Mike Heer... does an outstanding write up and review here. It is this quality of review that draws me to RCGROUPS.COM

The 1 meter series from Cermark was a serious temption before reading Mike's review... doubly so now. Although I feel I struck gold with the 3DHS Extra300, IMHO it is important to experience different type of planes to further hone my skills. At $100 the 1 meter series is an inexpensive opportunity (I think I can easily swap electrics between my E-Flite Mini Funtana X into a Cermark kit).

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