Originally Posted by Diggs

Any suggestions on option 1's power setup? I am curious how small you can go with this wing? I love floating my Swift II and would love to get the maxi to fly the same way. I wonder if a CDR type motor like the Tower Pro or BP 08 or 09 would push it with a 11" slow fly prop on a 3S 1500~1800mah lipo? I am sure it might want a larger pack just for the additional weight in the nose.


Diggs

Hi Diggs,

In answer to your question, at the Efest event this year, the guy distributing these said the Eflite 480 would work fine or of course the AXI he was selling like 78Dave used.

Specs on the Park 480 Brushless Outrunner Motor, 1020Kv
Perfect match for 3D park flyers weighing 20–30 oz (565–850 g)
Ideal for scale park flyers 25–35 oz (710–990 g)
Ideal for models requiring up to 275 watts of power

78Dave lists the weight as 32-43 ounces. so this would put the Maxi Swift under 10 watts per ounce with this motor. You would likely still need a 3200 3s size battery to balance it.

The 480 would be similar to the power that 78Dave used with the Axi motor listed in the review so those are 2 options. Why don't you buy a Maxi Swift, build it light and floaty, then give us the feedback.

I wanted vertical performance and power to do low tight maneuvers so I went with the 400 watt range for motor and a 4000 Mah 3 cell. I am very happy with the performance and it matches my style of flying the wing. The best part is the growl you get from this wing when you hit the power. It is not a quiet flyer in any sense of the word!

I will try to get some video and post it up soon.

BTW I fly 25-30 minutes with this set up depending on throttle use.

-Blee

Thanks for all the info! I figured that big pack was for balance. It should fly forever on those if it floats well. I am probably buying a sailplane or 2 today, so I will not be getting the Maxi anytime soon. But I feel like it is just a matter of time before I pick one up. I will build it lite and certainly let everyone know how it does.

Thanks again!
Diggs

Bleemer,
My Maxi flew exactly as you described yours initiallly. My first launch at WOT, I thought I lost the radio as I felt no response to my inputs. What did you use to glass the elevons? .75oz cloth and epoxy or something cheaper? My initial balance point took two 2100mah 3 cell packs.
I got one of the early kits as mine didn't have any string, I tried the packing tape and several other tapes but none would stay on. I ended up burying some 1mm x 3mm carbon strips, a couple on top and bottom.
Your glassing idea makes me want to get this beast back out and try it again!

Thanks, Matt

Originally Posted by basmntdweller

Bleemer,
My Maxi flew exactly as you described yours initiallly. My first launch at WOT, I thought I lost the radio as I felt no response to my inputs. What did you use to glass the elevons? .75oz cloth and epoxy or something cheaper? My initial balance point took two 2100mah 3 cell packs.
I got one of the early kits as mine didn't have any string, I tried the packing tape and several other tapes but none would stay on. I ended up burying some 1mm x 3mm carbon strips, a couple on top and bottom.
Your glassing idea makes me want to get this beast back out and try it again!

Thanks, Matt

Hi Matt,

i used some lightweight Fiberglass cloth and thinned epoxy on just the bottom of the elevon. I would probably use a heavier glass were I to do it again to get more rigidity. I then used some fiber strapping tape over the top of that. This all added weight that of course has to be countered up front but it gave me control I can live with. I also have a flat carbon strip on the back edge of the elevon.

If I were to start over, I might have tried some carbon rod in an x pattern and cut it into the elevon bottom. That might eliminate the twisting as a alternative to glassing them and might weigh less too.

The beast deserves a 2nd chance and with control back, it will put a smile on your face. I have the best aerial video from the Maxi Swift too since it is so big and stable up high.

-Blee

Is there any reason besides cutting in to the paint job that things
cant be mounted on top?

Originally Posted by ovaleye

Is there any reason besides cutting in to the paint job that things
cant be mounted on top?

Top side will protect things better, but you have to review the control rod from servos down to the elevons for rubbing on the top of the wing. The curvature of the wing might cause you a problem if you go to far forward. But, remember on a swept wing like these you need things like the servos forward to keep the CG. If you have to mount servos behind the CG along with the Motor that is back there, you will need more weight up front to counter balance.

Be sure you lay out all the electronic gear, including the battery, on the wing and check the CG before you start cutting.

It all comes down to cutting up the painted side versus the bottom which is all white. I really wish they would paint both sides of these as you end up staring at the white bottom when its in the air.I taped some stripes on mine for better visibility.

p.s. we decided that having 2 servo's per elevon should help us with the control fade at speed(Earlier Posts). You may want to try that too. These are big elevons and they may be flexing plus the single servo may be loosing the battle to hold the elevon up or down at medium to high speeds.

Enjoy,

-Blee

Thank Bleemer that helps.
I was going to use a couple HS-81s on it. The rest of my servos are $6 Hobby lobby stuff or full size. Will the 81s handle it?
Im going to use it for some AP Ive been using a slow stick but the wind keeps it grounded more often than not.
How did you mount your camera any Pics?

Very Nice review Dave. Got myself one this weekend and need some help, How well is the string and CA working to stiffen things up? I'm thinking rather to go with a carbon rod at the C of G.

Did not like the idea of installing all the gear at the bottom so I only left the servo's there and the rest whent on top, but can see damaged comming with those horns stikking out. Maybe adding a strake on the bottom centre LE to TE for hand launches this might then help to protect the servo's also.

Installed a Turningy SK3542-1250 with APC 10x7 maybe a overkill and hover in hand at half throttle!!! With two lipo's up front and a bit of lead there AUW came to 1143g.

One more thing I noticed after the wings got joined is anhidral.... interesting.

I put everything in the equipment bay on top.

Brilliant! Very nice and neat thanks for sharing any reinforments to help with rigidity on your wing? It looks like you used hardwood? No wait that must be something else fibre glass strips?

Thanks!

The wing reinforcement consists of the following.

Tensioned kevlar cords (two on top and two on bottom) that were CA'd in place. The picture shows the plywood wing jointer and cords before installation.

The cords still let the wing flex some because the cords compress into the foam a little under load but the more you bend the wing the more it resists.

I also added two strips of fiberglass filament tape on the bottom (under the black decoration) and one on the top (under the red decoration) to stop that initial wing flex.

There is also a plywood spar installed accross the back of the equipment bay. You can see in the picture how far it extends out.

Thanks again Gary, Did a maiden flight today..... what can I say it fly's as advertised! with plenty of power on my set up and will climb vertical at full throttle and at less than half will float around very nicely, will do some more flights the weekend to trim but won't need to adjust alot.

No stiffening added not even strings as in jet but first up is elavons for some carbon.

Originally Posted by Gary Evans

Thanks!
The wing reinforcement consists of the following... ...You can see in the picture how far it extends out.

This is great, i was thinking too, how to improve this "from-bottom" big minus of that simple and great model. Holders of servos impressed me the most. They are at default pretty exposed, so this is great solution.

I do not have this plane yet, but i flewn two of this, one white one with print. Also as glider with no motor at it, and still carrying two lipos at front, and great flight everytime.
My both friends fixed wings from left to right in two levels (before your electro bay, and before motor) and cover front surface with glass(x) tape.

Do you have any blueprints of you inlay part and servo holder? or just a drawed line around wing?

Can you post photo how you lead flex or pusher from servo to wing?
Thanks, and good job

Originally Posted by Anthlon

Do you have any blueprints of you inlay part and servo holder? or just a drawed line around wing?

Can you post photo how you lead flex or pusher from servo to wing?
Thanks, and good job

Czech Republic, Small world! I bought my first couple of Maxies directly from the manufacture there before we had a U.S. dealer.

No sorry I do not have any drawings but if you progress into the build in the right order it becomes apparent where each part must fit. These would be my suggestions on the order of construction.

1) I form the equipment bay cover by temporarily taping the wing halves to together before any cutting and marking out the equipment bay. Then cover the bay with greased poly sheeting and lay up about 5 pieces of 3oz fiberglass to form the cover. Make it over sized to allow for trimming.
I make the bay as large as possible which is 7 inches deep and 6 3/4 wide. The limitation on the front end is leaving room for the battery cutouts and on the rear leaving room for mounting the ESC.

2) I cut out the bay before gluing the wing halves as it can be done much cleaner using a razor knife than a hot blade. I use a sharp box cutter and straight edge and leave at least 3/8-inch wall on the bottom. Remember that when the halves are joined the wing has anhedral so take that into account on the required angle of the bay floor.

3) I draw out the wing joiner by first tracing the wing profile and then drawing exactly where I want the camera and motor to mount. Position the motor exactly where the OEM mount would put it.

4) Next joint the wings and install a bottom on the equipment bay. I use .060 G10 fiberglass.

5) Now pick the spot for the elevons horns. From the horn you want the push rod to go forward at a 45-degree angle from the elevon not parallel with the wing center. Put in place the servos so you can determine exactly where the push rod must enter the equipment bay. Install the elevon horns so you can see exactly how high the push rod must be at the attachment point. With those points known the route of the push rod is obvious. Use the largest possible radius for the bend. I tape a sheet metal form to the wing as a guide for hot knife cutting the channel.

6) For any necessary filing such as the channels I use micro balloons and epoxy or water based polyurethane.

7) The very last step is the battery box cut outs, which are determined by balancing for the correct CG. Making this the last step will minimize the need for adding ballast later.

Hope this helps. There is too much other detail to write out but I can answer any other specific questions as needed.