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Old May 27, 2008, 04:33 PM
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holmes county ohio
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great panes pete n poke sport 40

builders beware!!!! i built my poke according to the book....the wings hold down plates.....will seperate on you on rotation....i spent hours tuning my engine....getting to know the plane on the ground....finally....when i felt confident....i let her fly....5 ft. off the strip....the wing came off with both plates attached to the 3 hold down bolts!!! poor design.....i should knew better....it looked weak to me....i trusted the book.....never again.....make some 45 degree gussets and epoxy them in all 4 corners....regardless of how bad it looks....and tap them blocks 1/4-20 for your hold down bolts. i made mine 3/4 thick and 1-1/2 long. still....i have read what this will do....as loops etc.....i would never attempt it.....them 4 legs arent strong enough for this huge wing. this info. to a newbie might just save his airplane.....i got lucky....no damage as i was only 5 ft. off the strip....think what woulda happened had i made if half way around?
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Old May 27, 2008, 06:56 PM
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orenda635's Avatar
GTA, Ontario, Canada
Joined Apr 2004
827 Posts
A buddy of mine crashed one of those. I still have his Pete n Poke in my basement that I've partially repaired. He was just going to throw it out anyway so I took it off his hands.

I'm not really sure what you're saying though. Do you mean the cabane struts failed? I agree that there's really not a lot holding the wing on. The struts are just plywood epoxied into the fuselage. On my Hangar 9 Camel, the struts are steel and double bolted to the fuselage.
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Old May 28, 2008, 02:24 PM
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Beaumont tx
Joined Oct 2004
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ed, I went to the tower site and looked at thePete and Poke manual. that's a terrible design!

the struts should have been much longer, and epoxied into the fuselage. I gather that yours failed at the strut - wing plate junction. that's also a bad design. I would glue rails horizontal rails on both sides of the strust tops, then put the wing-platform BETWEEN them with screws and epoxy. then tap into that for the wing.

I don't know whether you are going to rebuild your airplane or not, but if you do, this is a minimum way to keep the wing on. If this is n't clear, let me know.

It's really not a bad airplane; I've seen a couple fly, but never had one. You're right, that's a baaaad design.

howell
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Old May 28, 2008, 05:34 PM
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holmes county ohio
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sport 40

i did....i made gussets for all 4 corners.....epoxied them in place....let it cure for 48 hours....drilled into them....and put in 8 wood screws....then i tapped them gussets 1/4-20 to accept the wing bolts. the flaw isnt the main beams going into the fuse.....its the rails on top that the wing bolts too. they should have made this whole frame out of aluminum...prebent.....then attach it inside the fuse with bolts and blind nuts. BAD BAD BAD DESIGN!!!! DONT TRY TO LOOP THIS AIRPLANE!!!! YOUR LUCKY TO GET IT TO FLY!!! i fixed mine.....but i will never trust it again!!!
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Old Jun 17, 2008, 06:45 PM
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Fallbrook, California
Joined Nov 2007
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I recently finished a Pete & Poke and before I finished the cabane struture , I saw some threads about this subject, so I went to extremes with the cabane structure.

I drilled each corner in two places and Ca'd small brads into the holes. I ran small
brass screws thru the exterior of the fusalage and into the 4 vertical cabane struts, and the interior ply wallls.
I found that epoxy does not like to stick well to smooth plywood, so I roughed up the expoxied surfaces and also used some fiberglass cloth over the top , and down the sides of the frame.
So far I have had no problems with the plane and it flies real well. I have done many loops and basic airobatics , and so far so good.
I think the big thing is getting the epoxy to stick to plywood. It has to be rough or have grooves or holes that expoxy can get into and stick to.



I also did something different with the exhaust. I ran a piece of high temp silcone tubing thru the fuse and it exits in front of the tail wheel. The cleanup takes about 10 seconds . The only thing that gets dirty is the tail wheel. It works really cool . It has a deeper four stroke sound to it, and it looks cool on a flyby with the exhaust coming from the rear of the plane.
I agree the structure should be aluminum or a different design that's easier to build.
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Old Jun 17, 2008, 10:10 PM
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Beaumont tx
Joined Oct 2004
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Engines generally are not happy with backpressure and they overheat. I suspect yours isn't because it's a 4 stroke and has a good size muffler. This would minimize the overheating problem. Maybe it's cooler where you are than where I am (texas gulf coast)...

welcome to the wild bunch. Watch out for Zor.

howell
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Old Jun 18, 2008, 09:39 AM
Zor
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Ontario,Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John D.

Please read original posting by John D.

I think the big thing is getting the epoxy to stick to plywood. It has to be rough or have grooves or holes that expoxy can get into and stick to.

What Zor refers to as "epoxy riveting". Get epoxy through the hole (sometime many holes) and thus on both side of the material, an epoxy rivet.

I agree the structure should be aluminum or a different design that's easier to build.
Hello John D,

Ya _ _ _ like "gwinhh says"
welcome to the wild bunch. Watch out for Zor.
howell

Well Zor just wants to WELCOME you to the forum.
I am part of "the wild bunch" that sometime gives "howell" a wild time.

You can see how wild Zor is by going to this thread _ _ _
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721700

Just a few readers, a few postings and a few pictures to browse at your leisure.

Have a good time and lots of pleasure with your model airplane.
That is what this hobby is all about.

Enjoy,

Zor
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Last edited by Zor; Jun 18, 2008 at 01:13 PM. Reason: Fix spelling on re-reading
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Old Jun 19, 2008, 10:08 AM
Zor
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Ontario,Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John D.
I recently finished a Pete & Poke


I also did something different with the exhaust. I ran a piece of high temp silcone tubing thru the fuse and it exits in front of the tail wheel.
Hi John D,

What is the size of the exhaust tube to the rear end of the fuselage? Inside Diameter?

Thanks de Zor
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Old Jun 28, 2008, 12:08 AM
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Fallbrook, California
Joined Nov 2007
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Hi Zor
I used 3/8 ID tubing from the OS muffler and went into the fuse . Once inside the fuse, I used a brass hose fitting and went up to 5/8 ID tubing. Mc master Carr sells this tubng.I bought 1/8" wall foam tubing insulation and ran all the tubing thru the insulation. The inside of the fuse stays cool, and there is no problem with internal heat .
It has a silicone tubing has a 1/16 wall thickness. The bigger tubing runs thru bulkheads in the fuse to support the tubing. It exits about 1/1/2" in front of the tail wheel. I also purchase plastic hose clamps from Mcmaster Carr .They are the type you squeeze with pliers and the teeth on the clamp lock together. They have to be a high temp plastic. Don't use clamps for sprinkler systems , they melt.
If you are wanting to do this and need the part numbers , let me know . Its a little extra work but cleaning your plane takes all of a minute or two. If my plane did not have a tail wheel , there would no mess at all .
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Old Jun 28, 2008, 03:50 PM
Zor
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Thanks for the info John
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Old Jul 01, 2008, 12:34 AM
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Joined Nov 2007
1 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by John D.
I recently finished a Pete & Poke and before I finished the cabane struture , I saw some threads about this subject, so I went to extremes with the cabane structure.

I drilled each corner in two places and Ca'd small brads into the holes. I ran small
brass screws thru the exterior of the fusalage and into the 4 vertical cabane struts, and the interior ply wallls.
I found that epoxy does not like to stick well to smooth plywood, so I roughed up the expoxied surfaces and also used some fiberglass cloth over the top , and down the sides of the frame.
So far I have had no problems with the plane and it flies real well. I have done many loops and basic airobatics , and so far so good.
I think the big thing is getting the epoxy to stick to plywood. It has to be rough or have grooves or holes that expoxy can get into and stick to.



I also did something different with the exhaust. I ran a piece of high temp silcone tubing thru the fuse and it exits in front of the tail wheel. The cleanup takes about 10 seconds . The only thing that gets dirty is the tail wheel. It works really cool . It has a deeper four stroke sound to it, and it looks cool on a flyby with the exhaust coming from the rear of the plane.
I agree the structure should be aluminum or a different design that's easier to build.
I like the way that you added extra support for the wing. Would it be possible to remove the wing and post additional pictures of your design. Thanks. Also view my thread at rcuniverse.com

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_69..._1/key_/tm.htm
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