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Old Apr 20, 2010, 01:46 AM
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Buzzkill2's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Blanc
Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rydogg420 View Post
Oh and my ST.10 is still flying strong and cold with a 40 amp esc 11x7 mas and 20c-25c 2200 batt's. I dont know why people say it's so bad, i guess just cus you dont agree with Z-8's posting??? If my stock motor broke and i just wanted somthing cheap from the LHS the St.10 is pretty powerful for its size and weight and after a fast run the motor did not get hot at all...
I don't think the fact that he posts is an issue, the fact that he posts BS and false claims is however.

I'm sure the St .10 is a good inexpensive replacement for the stock motor but, I don't for a second believe it performs like Z-8 claimed.

No one is knocking the ST motor.
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 06:02 AM
JOHN 3:16
Sammy70's Avatar
Central Ohio
Joined Feb 2008
6,287 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rydogg420 View Post
Oh and my ST.10 is still flying strong and cold with a 40 amp esc 11x7 mas and 20c-25c 2200 batt's. I dont know why people say it's so bad, i guess just cus you dont agree with Z-8's posting??? If my stock motor broke and i just wanted somthing cheap from the LHS the St.10 is pretty powerful for its size and weight and after a fast run the motor did not get hot at all...
That's great, but not my experience at all. After testing a few props on the ST .10 I flew it but one time on a 10x5 prop and wasn't impressed. Anymore prop than that and things were getting hot fast.

Anyone want a slightly used ST .10 for a good price? PM me if so...
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 07:04 AM
I don't need no stink'n nitro!
Thompsons Stn, TN
Joined Nov 2008
136 Posts
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Originally Posted by Buzzkill2 View Post
Great! Outstanding effort on your part and will be much appreciated. One thing if I may? Pleae use similar batteries on all of the test model. A 20C battery won't be close to a 40C if you catch my meaning.

Oh ya, if you guys lived by me I'd throw a couple more T28s in there with at least two more motors
We can't do too much battery swapping without messing with everyone's CG... We've all upgraded our bats, so the "weakest" will be a Rhino 2250 25C. Still, I'll make sure to note which battery was in use during the test.

Wish you could be there, Buzz, but there's no shortage of Trojans at my club... Some of them have gone the "crazy overpowered" route though, with Power25s or stronger motors... 800+ watts of wing ripping speed! I didn't think they were really right for this comparison.

I think we'll stay with the two-bladed props for the first batch of runs, but I intend to get numbers for a couple of different three-blades later... We'll use the stock prop on each motor as a baseline, then an Aeronaut 10x6, APC 10x7, MAS 10x8, APC 10x10, Aeronaut 10.5x6, APC 11x5.5 & 11x7 & 11x8.5, etc, depending on the motor. The idea is to get as much out of the motors as we can without going past the rated amperage in flight... We'll be checking the EagleTree data after each run to dial them in.
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 07:38 AM
I don't need no stink'n nitro!
Thompsons Stn, TN
Joined Nov 2008
136 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rydogg420 View Post
Oh and my ST.10 is still flying strong and cold with a 40 amp esc 11x7 mas and 20c-25c 2200 batt's. I dont know why people say it's so bad, i guess just cus you dont agree with Z-8's posting??? If my stock motor broke and i just wanted somthing cheap from the LHS the St.10 is pretty powerful for its size and weight and after a fast run the motor did not get hot at all...
It all depends on where you "feel" for the heat... The motor bell should never even get very warm, much less hot. The heat is generated by the coils, and that's were the motor will fail. Check the back of the motor, at the mount... It will be way hotter than the bell, and even then, it's not as hot as the coils.

I've got to put my ST.10 back into my T-28 to do these test runs I've been talking about, so I'll try to get some good temp numbers then. I've got a friend who has a very cool "laser" thermometer he uses to balance HVAC systems... I don't know if it'll read high enough to get a valid motor temperature, but if so, we'll run the motor hard and then take readings of the bell, coil, and mount for comparison. BTW... If you watch Z-8s video of his "temperature test", you'll see that he only checks the bell. On top of that, he uses an intraotic thermometer to take the reading... The kind you stick in your kids ear to see if they have a fever! I guess it never occurred to him that those thermometers only read to about 120 degrees Fahrenheit... I guess we're lucky he didn't "test" a pot of boiling water, or we'd have to re-write all our science textbooks!
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 10:42 AM
Always Fly 2 Mistakes High!
RGS2010's Avatar
Houston, Texas
Joined Mar 2010
3,635 Posts
20C on stock setup

Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotPete01 View Post
Hey Varmet6,
As someone already indicated, they will work. However, I would recommend spending a couple extra bucks and getting a higher "c" rating. I have the 25C version of the same battery and a friend of mine has some 35C ones. We both have the same, stock set up in our planes and his will fly circles around me. It is a very noticeable performance gain for only a couple dollars per battery. It is almost a requirement if you are ever going to put a bigger motor in. The 20C version will have a discharge of 44 amps whereas the 25C will come in at 55 amps and 30C at 66 amps.

Just something to think about....
I'm about to get my first T-28D...are 20C lipos okay for the stock ESC setup? Are the stock ESC's okay? I have been reading WAY back in the threads and there have been numerous posts about ESC's. I have some 30 amp Turnigy Plush lying around...would they be better?

I like Turnigy Batteries...or Rhino's...it looks like 2200's are the sweet spot for the biggest batteries for the compartment???

Please advise my helpful RC Community!
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 10:51 AM
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Joined Aug 2009
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The newer T-28's all have the eflight 30amp esc in it and its fine, I fly all day on flightmax 2200mah 20cs, they can fly up to around 10 mins on those batteries with throttle management, I usually bring it in at 7 mins as a precaution. I did use velcro on the battery and the back of the battery sits on the center of the third hump (last hump) from the front. The T-28 is a blast, relaxing, worry free airplane, just keep in mind your steering arm will crack eventually and to replace it with a dubro one (with the internal metal ring to stop the torque of landing from breaking it again).
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Last edited by afinegan; Apr 20, 2010 at 11:09 AM.
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 11:40 AM
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United States, LA, Moss Bluff
Joined Nov 2008
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Originally Posted by robtest View Post
Robj,

What have you done to the leading edge of the wing???


Plan old gray duct tape. This plane is over a year old and early on I belly landed it a bunch in a grown up cow pasture that wasn't 100% nice grass. It took some licks. Later on I found white and red duct tape for some more style!
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 11:42 AM
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United States, LA, Moss Bluff
Joined Nov 2008
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Originally Posted by moonpock View Post
Not to worry, DogFly... I'm working on settling this issue once and for all! I've got a four T-28s lined up so far... One stock, one with a BP2814, one with a ST.10, and one with a Power10... Still looking for one with a Turnigy motor. As soon as I pick up the GPS unit for my eLogger, we're going to fly them all, back-to-back, in the same pattern, at the same field, on the same morning. Each plane will go up multiple times, with different props, to get a log of it's optimal setup... That should give us the best motor stats, top speeds, and vertical performance for all five motors, in the most precise and accurate way I can think of. I'll put all the data and pictures in a blog, and post just the final results here... Hopefully, that will be the end of the motor controversy, at least for a while!
BTDT, just remember to start very small with your prop on the ST10, or it won't be around for the complete test.
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 06:19 PM
Stavman's Avatar
Glendale, AZ, Sun and MORE sun... One Hobbies and The Nitro Pit Supporter
Joined Nov 2009
348 Posts
Ok Guys.... need some Help

Placing a NEW TR 35-36c motor in my T-28....

Now I aam new to all this Guys, so help me out here

Use 20c 2200mah 3s turnegy lipo's. pulling the 30amp esc out and puting my Castle 36amp in... Is this enoupgh???

Need help on Props

Heard APC 11x7 rocks.... what is the benefit of a 10x7, 10x10 etc

Still learning Props Sizes and benefits

Thanks Guys... love my T-28


Stav
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 06:26 PM
Absolute Beginner
Pine, AZ
Joined Feb 2010
93 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by afinegan View Post
The newer T-28's all have the eflight 30amp esc in it and its fine, I fly all day on flightmax 2200mah 20cs, they can fly up to around 10 mins on those batteries with throttle management, I usually bring it in at 7 mins as a precaution. I did use velcro on the battery and the back of the battery sits on the center of the third hump (last hump) from the front. The T-28 is a blast, relaxing, worry free airplane, just keep in mind your steering arm will crack eventually and to replace it with a dubro one (with the internal metal ring to stop the torque of landing from breaking it again).
What's the DuBro part number for the steering arm? I've got their catalog but don't see it.
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 07:20 PM
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United States, VA, Roanoke
Joined Nov 2009
978 Posts
need some help - its been kinda windy and I swapped to my APC 10x10E prop and it works AWESOME - but I FINALLY made it out the other day when it was calm and I noticed that the plane will not keep flying straight - it seems like there are small pulses of right aileron upwards - its VERY small pulses but if I go for 100 yards it keeps turning right - is this just from the higher pitch prop and the torque its putting out? I can make adjustments and its not horrible - i just started noticing it and now im curious

Thanks
Shawn
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 07:26 PM
Registered User
USA, GA, Norcross
Joined Jul 2009
333 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stavman View Post
Ok Guys.... need some Help

Placing a NEW TR 35-36c motor in my T-28....

Now I aam new to all this Guys, so help me out here

Use 20c 2200mah 3s turnegy lipo's. pulling the 30amp esc out and puting my Castle 36amp in... Is this enoupgh???

Need help on Props

Heard APC 11x7 rocks.... what is the benefit of a 10x7, 10x10 etc

Still learning Props Sizes and benefits

Thanks Guys... love my T-28


Stav

Not picking on Stav by any means, but I have found this curious, as it seems fairly constant...


Why do people pick the C version of the 35-36??? The A version has a higher KV rating, so should turn the prop faster... It seems like that would be the preference...

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Old Apr 20, 2010, 07:39 PM
Enjoying the nice weather
twister782's Avatar
Akron, Ohio
Joined May 2008
1,654 Posts
anyone interested in my T-28? Stock motor,ESC,Prop. All new servos. PM me if interested.
I thought I would ask in here before posting in the classifieds
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 07:43 PM
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Toppers's Avatar
Canada, ON, Oakville
Joined May 2008
1,976 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stavman View Post
Ok Guys.... need some Help

Placing a NEW TR 35-36c motor in my T-28....

Now I aam new to all this Guys, so help me out here

Use 20c 2200mah 3s turnegy lipo's. pulling the 30amp esc out and puting my Castle 36amp in... Is this enoupgh???

Need help on Props

Heard APC 11x7 rocks.... what is the benefit of a 10x7, 10x10 etc

Still learning Props Sizes and benefits

Thanks Guys... love my T-28


Stav
Hi Stav,

I just replaced my SK 35-30 1100kV with the Gold 35-36 1100kV in my spares box (look back a few pages to see why !!).

The 35-30 SK gave 310W with the stock 9.7 x 7.5 prop. The new 35-36C gives 430W (37A) with the same prop. Both using a 2200 40C battery. So your ideas of using an even bigger prop are not realistic with that ESC (also the 35-36 is only rated to 450W (I think).

Once my HK order comes through I'll be swapping back to the 35-30 SK as it is perfect for my style of flying (and still 50% more power than stock).

Toppers
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 07:49 PM
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Toppers's Avatar
Canada, ON, Oakville
Joined May 2008
1,976 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by robtest View Post
Not picking on Stav by any means, but I have found this curious, as it seems fairly constant...


Why do people pick the C version of the 35-36??? The A version has a higher KV rating, so should turn the prop faster... It seems like that would be the preference...

'cos the 1100kV motor is already way faster than stock and the watt / amps pulled by the 1400kV are huge.

I haven't tested a 35-36 1400kV, but the SK 35-30 1400kV motor pulls 510W with a 10x7 prop. The 35-36 will probably be ~20% more, about 600W would be my guess.
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