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Old Oct 19, 2009, 07:26 AM
accidental ignition
NOTAR 600's Avatar
Central Ohio
Joined Nov 2007
1,580 Posts
I am thinking of trying these batteries. Has anyone tried four cell lipos in your T28??

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...00mAh_4S1P_20C
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Last edited by NOTAR 600; Oct 19, 2009 at 07:34 AM.
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 09:09 AM
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robj's Avatar
United States, LA, Moss Bluff
Joined Nov 2008
8,162 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cna91
I just found this...your thoughts?
I'm going to have to disagree with a couple others. It looks interesting. While it may be soft enough to bend. It will get its strength and will be rigid when the legs are attached to the firewall. It certainly won't crack like the stock plastic mount. The mounting ring will stiffen up when the 4 screws and washers are in place. It will get its strenght from the back of the motor. Consider the physics and leverage.

And only $8 shipped? Only down side I see is you have to make some exact measurements and bends. Not to heavy to.
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 10:42 AM
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cgage's Avatar
Tennessee
Joined Mar 2009
514 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by divemasterphil
Don't bother with fancy mounts just use the stock motor mount with the 35-36 serie Turnigy Motors.

In my pictures I used the metal replace mount for the stock motor and on my first crash I bent the shaft and broken the nose of the plane off. So stay with the plastic mount it is like an insurance policy or just I cheap place to fix in a crash.

You do have to push the shaft through the 35-36 to get it out the other end of the motor.
I've never seen one of these motors. Not sure what you are talking about - "push the shaft through"
In addition, someone spoke of reinforcing (or is it cushioning) the firewall.
IVe had a lot of damage up there. Can someone explain?
I like this plane but so far it has not been crash friendly.
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 10:44 AM
I have to land it??$#%@!!
Mc Calla, Alabama
Joined Aug 2009
71 Posts
I agree

Quote:
Originally Posted by robj
I'm going to have to disagree with a couple others. It looks interesting. While it may be soft enough to bend. It will get its strength and will be rigid when the legs are attached to the firewall. It certainly won't crack like the stock plastic mount. The mounting ring will stiffen up when the 4 screws and washers are in place. It will get its strenght from the back of the motor. Consider the physics and leverage.

And only $8 shipped? Only down side I see is you have to make some exact measurements and bends. Not to heavy to.

I have to agree with robj. Once you make the bends and screw the motor on and install screws on the mounting ring to the firewall I would think it will be much stiffer than the plastic mount. Getting the legs even and getting the motor mount the right distance from the firewall could be a problem. You would have to get it right the first time. I don't think a re-straightening and re-bending of the metal would work very well and would weaken the mount. That is just my 2 cents.

Tom
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Last edited by tlewter; Oct 19, 2009 at 10:45 AM. Reason: add a fix
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 11:05 AM
I have to land it??$#%@!!
Mc Calla, Alabama
Joined Aug 2009
71 Posts
Crash friendly

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgage
I've never seen one of these motors. Not sure what you are talking about - "push the shaft through"
In addition, someone spoke of reinforcing (or is it cushioning) the firewall.
IVe had a lot of damage up there. Can someone explain?
I like this plane but so far it has not been crash friendly.
I think the idea about crash friendly is an example of some crashes I had. I broke the entire nose off twice and was able to glue the silly thing back together and made the repairs and in less than an hour it was ready to fly again. I have glued wings back together as well in a very short amount of time. It shows you what kind of a flyer I am!

I was curious as well about the "push the shaft though" on the 3536C motor. Maybe he was talking about removing a snap ring and then move the shaft out to the opposite end of the motor. I am not sure if there is a snap ring groove at the proper place in the shaft when you do that. If not, a collar could be used I guess...not sure.

Tom
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 11:26 AM
Karma's Evil Twin Brother
USA, OH, Maineville
Joined Sep 2009
283 Posts
I have only been flying for about 6 months now. I started with a Radian to learn to fly and about a month ago purchased a Trojan. I absolutely love how this thing flies. I did the flap mod that everyone on here suggested and it worked out great.

But, I have the dx5e and I cannot adjust the speed at which the flaps move. I have seen servo speed reducers online but the ones that I have seen say not to use them with digital servos. Can anyone recommend or know of a servo speed reducer that will work for less than $25? If they're any more expensive than that, I may as well by a dx6i. Thanks for your help!
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 11:56 AM
Irg
ol' yellow eyes is back
Irg's Avatar
Brooklyn, NY
Joined Apr 2009
7,662 Posts
Bad Karma,
Not sure if this is what you mean, but even if you have a DX6i you can't control the speed of flap deployment. You will still need a servo retarder.

I'm pretty sure that I have used my NFSD-1 servo slow down module from hobby lobby with the PZ servos and it worked fine. What servo are you using for the flap mod?

the hobby lobby module can be found here:
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/servo_slo...QueryId=236919
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 12:33 PM
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Toppers's Avatar
Canada, ON, Oakville
Joined May 2008
1,988 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Karma
I have only been flying for about 6 months now. I started with a Radian to learn to fly and about a month ago purchased a Trojan. I absolutely love how this thing flies. I did the flap mod that everyone on here suggested and it worked out great.

But, I have the dx5e and I cannot adjust the speed at which the flaps move. I have seen servo speed reducers online but the ones that I have seen say not to use them with digital servos. Can anyone recommend or know of a servo speed reducer that will work for less than $25? If they're any more expensive than that, I may as well by a dx6i. Thanks for your help!
Hi B-K,

This servo speed reducer from HK works great.

Toppers
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 12:52 PM
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Toppers's Avatar
Canada, ON, Oakville
Joined May 2008
1,988 Posts
Inverted Landing !!!

NOT my video.

I stumbled across this on YT... it's rather interesting way of protecting the nose wheel !!

Inverted Landing

Just shows how robust this plane is.

Toppers
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 01:43 PM
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aurorae's Avatar
Joined Sep 2008
675 Posts
And he did it not once, but twice. Not sure if the second one was on purpose.

Then at the end he must have a servo that pops the hatch open.
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 01:47 PM
Registered User
Joined May 2009
128 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlewter
I think the idea about crash friendly is an example of some crashes I had. I broke the entire nose off twice and was able to glue the silly thing back together and made the repairs and in less than an hour it was ready to fly again. I have glued wings back together as well in a very short amount of time. It shows you what kind of a flyer I am!

I was curious as well about the "push the shaft though" on the 3536C motor. Maybe he was talking about removing a snap ring and then move the shaft out to the opposite end of the motor. I am not sure if there is a snap ring groove at the proper place in the shaft when you do that. If not, a collar could be used I guess...not sure.

Tom
yes there are 2 groove's.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6488
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 02:00 PM
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cgage's Avatar
Tennessee
Joined Mar 2009
514 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by my2cents
This replaces the original shaft? Its longer or goes in differently? Please explain.
Need to understand this. Cant keep paying $70 for stock motors!
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 02:14 PM
Registered User
Joined May 2009
128 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgage
This replaces the original shaft? Its longer or goes in differently? Please explain.
Need to understand this. Cant keep paying $70 for stock motors!
this is repacement shaft for trngy 3536c motor,showed it so you could see both grooves. If you leave motor the way it comes you mount the prop adapter to the motor,if you push the shaft thru you mount a prop adapter to the shaft.
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 02:24 PM
Soon to be CrashMasterPhil
Rochester MN
Joined Dec 2007
754 Posts
The motor mount the same way. Bolts from the rear (motor wire end to motor mount/firewall). There are two grooves in the shaft. It come with the shaft sticking out the firewall end and they supply a prop adapter that you have to cut the cowl to get it to fit. I simply more the snap ring from the inner groove to the outer groove. Loosen the set screw at the prop end of the motor and push it through until the outer groove and snap-ring are at the bearing. Then I tighen the set screw. You can use a hammer (brass/small) or a vise to push it through. Once you've pushed it through the shaft point out the prop end of the motor and it has a notch for the stock T-28 prop adapter set screw.

I have this motor on my P-51D and T-28D using only stock parts.

Should I post some pictures?
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Old Oct 19, 2009, 02:46 PM
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robj's Avatar
United States, LA, Moss Bluff
Joined Nov 2008
8,162 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgage
This replaces the original shaft? Its longer or goes in differently? Please explain.
Need to understand this. Cant keep paying $70 for stock motors!
Here is an actual pic of a 35-42(desk conversation piece, this was the 1000w test motor), to show the after look.

Remove snap ring(you'll probably waste it on removal, it's easy to bend, I made some special pliers.
Carefully with a good allen remove the grub screw at the "front" of the motor.
Separate the motor halves, there is a brass thruse washer or 2 inside if I recall.
Drill a hole in a wood block or figure out the best way to secure the motor, and tap(read hammer), the shaft through.
Some will file a flat spot for the new grub screw location. Tighten the grub screw.
Use any 4mm shaft collet.

And you are done!

Rob
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