first things first.. wheres the pic!that would probably work. the different steps under the canopy itself is designed to hold the pack in place during flight. you need to insert whatever battery you are using then look as you close the canopy and figure if the bottom protrusions are going to block the rear of the pack to prevent rearward sliding. i had to open up my battery bay as well but as long as you verify the different size batteries are being held forward and secure anything goes. you want to check cg as well of coarse too. i purchased some wider batteries that required a mod. would have prefered not to but all is well. congradulations on a great flying plane, as long as the previous owner loved her. good luck.

Originally Posted by drktkm

What size wheels are you guys using with a 12" prop?

The 3-inch ones that look like bicycle wheels with 5 white spokes.

Originally Posted by justinlee1

I'm loving my T-28 UM as a first aileron plane and am flying patterns, taking off, landing, and doing basic aerobatics pretty well. I fly in medium-sized public parks about the size of two or three baseball fields. These parks seem to be micro-friendly, and the local AMA clubs are a little far away from me.

I would love to know your experiences in upgrading from the UM to the larger bird.

Also, how small of a space can it be flown in compared to the UM?

Thanks for your insight,
Justin

Switching from UM's to parkflyer-sized felt natural to me and a lot easier to see. If you go to the parkflyer-sized (33" to 48" wingspan) planes, you'll need a field the size of 2 soccer fields (football pitch in UK and Europe). You'll have to get used to the longer distances needed for landing; I'd say about 60 feet minimum, compared to 10 feet for an ultramicro.

(For the benefit of those getting started in rc planes: just take in consideration that a bigger plane at flying speed can injure or kill, and can mess up a car pretty bad. One guy hit a car; his auto insurance does not cover rc planes. He had to sell all his stuff to pay the car owner $850 in damages. when he got back to flying, he joined AMA and only flies the good stuff...no cheapie planes. )

Originally Posted by walter3rd

first things first.. wheres the pic!that would probably work. the different steps under the canopy itself is designed to hold the pack in place during flight. you need to insert whatever battery you are using then look as you close the canopy and figure if the bottom protrusions are going to block the rear of the pack to prevent rearward sliding. i had to open up my battery bay as well but as long as you verify the different size batteries are being held forward and secure anything goes. you want to check cg as well of coarse too. i purchased some wider batteries that required a mod. would have prefered not to but all is well. congradulations on a great flying plane, as long as the previous owner loved her. good luck.

Well, I will see what I can do about the pic. I don't have a smart phone, nor do I have a camera, so it won't be the best picture in the world.

Regarding the steps in the canopy, well those may have been cut out; there is quite a bit of room under the bridge. Need to do some fishing and see if the nub on the bottom of the canopy was cut because it definitely is nowhere near touching the battery. As it is now, there is one rectangle on the bottom of about 1/2" thickness (eyeballed it) and nothing else.

I goofed on the maiden. Total brainfart and didn't reverse the ailerons to work the right way. It wasn't a big deal, I brought the plane down, but landed in some bumpy grass and the nose wheel mount broke. Looks like the prior owner may have broke it at one point too because it looks like it was glued in place. I saw him taxi the plane today before buying so I know it was at least strong enough for concrete. Pretty certain this part http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parkzone-Nos...item1e71297fc2 didn't break. I think whatever holds that piece is what let go. I haven't been able to take a real close look at it yet to confirm though. So what does hold that part in place, and what would I be looking at for a replacement? Guess I should find the manual online...

That part which broke is part of the firewall and isnt a service part. You would have to buy a complete fuse. See my post around page 1683 on firewall reinforcement. Icecream sticks, a Dremel, hobby knife and some cf tube are your friends...

Originally Posted by Flyindude

That part which broke is part of the firewall and isnt a service part. You would have to buy a complete fuse. See my post around page 1683 on firewall reinforcement. Icecream sticks, a Dremel, hobby knife and some cf tube are your friends...

Yeah, ended up checking things out after I made my post last night. Definitely was the firewall... I will likely need to redo my repair. I tried getting away with just GG, but I dunno how well or for how long that will hold up.

Thank you "rgwilson" for the tip on the Robarts Landing Gear Strut Covers, and "flyindude" for the paint pen tip for detailing the engine cowl. I added these enhancements to my son's PZ T28D and I am very pleased with the outcome.

Here are some pics that show the front cowl and installed and painted landing gear strut covers. Note - I purposely installed the "elbows" on the strut covers pointed rearwards to avoid getting caught up in grass runways (we fly on soccer fields), even though the real plane has these pointing forwards. The front strut is correct with the rear facing elbow.

The Robarts LG strut covers are a bit expensive (about $15 from most hobby shops), but they are a very well designed and well made product. They are a "snap and screw on" product for easy future removal in case of LG replacement, and are made of very strong but flexible plastic.

For those that are interested, I will post some pics and a bit of an explanation on how I installed these on this plane under the "Parkzone T-28 Trojan Modifications" Thread.

Cheers RvE

I love flying my T28 in a KE, ran 3/4 pack (2100) in KE at the field yesterday.

RvE - looking good. I'm surprised you aren't running bigger wheels if you are using a grass field. Refer my mods 10 or so pages back. I have also used the silver pen on the engine sides, I assume these are exhaust pipes or similar (sides of the fuse). Cheers.

Just got back from my re-maiden . GG'd front wheel held up. Definitely need to do something about the battery situation. I felt like the plane was handling funny in the air but tried to finish the pack off, thinking it was due to the rudder being out of whack (it has a clear packing tape hinge on it right now, does the rudder normally fall off??). Finished off the flight with a nice scale landing and taxied back to me. Found the 1800mah pack towards the back of the fuse by the RX. Niceeee.

Originally Posted by Wildjones

Yeah, ended up checking things out after I made my post last night. Definitely was the firewall... I will likely need to redo my repair. I tried getting away with just GG, but I dunno how well or for how long that will hold up.

Wildy
The next moderately hard landing will break it again I suspect. In my experience, glue alone (even when I used CA and some baking powder to build up the join) broke soon after the repair. I have been doing touch and goes and had several weekends of flying now with the most recent repairs and all's well so far.

Note to Parkzone if you are reading this, please make the firewall a bit stronger and/or make it a service part so we can repair this more easily in future. We would be grateful.

just logged up to my first dozen flights on the t28 today. way more wind than i would have liked. she was really being shoved around good up there. at least it stayed blowing one direction so it really slowed her up for landing. mother natures flaps.

Didn't pull enough up elevator as I was coming in for a landing so I munched the nosegear through the firewall for the second time. The basswood reinforcement piece I had previously installed disappeared, I'll have to make a new one and use something stronger.

Ordered some replacement pushrods and a nosewheel, the existing pushrod is sort of taco'ed.

So I spent too much time away from this bird (nicknamed Why So Serious since her earlier repairs make her look like her throat was slit) and lost all touch when flying her.

Once I finish repairs, I think I'll move the bind from my Dx6i over to my DX7s, which will be a good time to revise throws and expo, I've got too much in the ailerons right now (50 I think) it makes it feel less responsive. What are typical low and high rates and expo you folks are using?

I'm at work so I can't check the rest of my rates.

I use 60% aileron and 75% elevator with no expo. Mine flies like a dream that way.

Lots of expo can be treacherous.

Expo makes the low end of the stick movement have a reduced or mushy effect.
The end point doesn't change.
The result of too much expo is a stick that is mushy at first and then quick to respond at the end of the throw.
Once you learn to control your thumbs will want the plane to react to your movements.
After 11 months of flying I have reduced the amount of expo I use to 15% - 20%.