Originally Posted by N6145k

Your gears could be stripped in the servos, coincident in time to when you changed. I wouldn't fly it. Either go back your original rx, or get a servo tester, or take apart the servos carefully and inspect the gears. Just advice from me to you.

That's what I thought at first but both stripped at the same time seems unusual.

Hi, newbie most likely asking a stupid question but anyway I can't seem to find the information after searching. I have a stock T28 except that I'm replacing the motor with a Eflite Power10. I can't seem to get enough torque to make the adapter grip onto the prop shaft.

I use a thick metal bar thru the nose to tighten it but i hate to really grip down with plyers or a vice in case it damages the Ali

Hope this makes sense.

I'm I missing something real simple to tighten onto the prop shaft. I notice the prop shaft has a flat area but I see no tapped hole to put a setscrew thru.

Help !!!!!!!!

Flew my new parkzone T-28 for the first time today. Wow, what a beautiful flying aircraft.
I am new to the hobby and have been flying a sensei for a couple months now. I was looking for a low wing trainer and after reading this thread, I decided to get the T-28.
I read online to put the larger wheels from the parkzone p-47 on it, since my clubs field is grass. That was the only mod I made to it. I was a little nervous being its maiden flight and all, so one of the veterans at the field, stood next to me during the flight. After a very short takeoff roll, the plane was airborne. Surprised me how short the takeoff was on grass even.
The plane dipped its nose a bit on climb out but I was able to recover it quickly. The veteran next to me said I need up elevator trim, so he reached over and clicked the trim up three clicks. That was it, the plane was all trimmed out. He even was surprised " only three clicks and it's all trimmed!" . I just flew a standard right hand pattern and did some low approaches getting ready for landing. After about 6 minutes I decided to land. Landed into the wind and she just floated to the ground. Flew her two more times today. Extremely impressed with how well the plane flies. Other club members there were impressed with her too.

Originally Posted by N6145k

Your gears could be stripped in the servos, coincident in time to when you changed. I wouldn't fly it. Either go back your original rx, or get a servo tester, or take apart the servos carefully and inspect the gears. Just advice from me to you.

Just checked the classifieds here on rc groups and there is an ad for a servo tester. So I am picking one up. I will also check the gears and switch out the rx to see what happens. Thanks,

Originally Posted by mkrochmaln

Flew my new parkzone T-28 for the first time today. Wow, what a beautiful flying aircraft.
I am new to the hobby and have been flying a sensei for a couple months now. I was looking for a low wing trainer and after reading this thread, I decided to get the T-28.
I read online to put the larger wheels from the parkzone p-47 on it, since my clubs field is grass. That was the only mod I made to it. I was a little nervous being its maiden flight and all, so one of the veterans at the field, stood next to me during the flight. After a very short takeoff roll, the plane was airborne. Surprised me how short the takeoff was on grass even.
The plane dipped its nose a bit on climb out but I was able to recover it quickly. The veteran next to me said I need up elevator trim, so he reached over and clicked the trim up three clicks. That was it, the plane was all trimmed out. He even was surprised " only three clicks and it's all trimmed!" . I just flew a standard right hand pattern and did some low approaches getting ready for landing. After about 6 minutes I decided to land. Landed into the wind and she just floated to the ground. Flew her two more times today. Extremely impressed with how well the plane flies. Other club members there were impressed with her too.

The t-28 is my first electric too. I mostly fly slope planes so not much to compare it to but it does seem to fly really nice. Mine needed very little trim as well.
Good to hear you brought home a plane in one piece and had some experienced fliers there to help you out. I have 8 flights on mine and feeling really comfortable with it. I had it inverted the first flight which I was sure I was not going to try. Just flies great. Now, stock up on batts.

Originally Posted by barryh8138

Hi, newbie most likely asking a stupid question but anyway I can't seem to find the information after searching. I have a stock T28 except that I'm replacing the motor with a Eflite Power10. I can't seem to get enough torque to make the adapter grip onto the prop shaft.

I use a thick metal bar thru the nose to tighten it but i hate to really grip down with plyers or a vice in case it damages the Ali

Hope this makes sense.

I'm I missing something real simple to tighten onto the prop shaft. I notice the prop shaft has a flat area but I see no tapped hole to put a setscrew thru.

Help !!!!!!!!

Ok, figured it out..... the stock prop was not sitting flush on the collet base and so it was not engaging the gripping area onto the propshaft. Reamed out the id of prop a little and now we have success

this is how we learn right !!

Originally Posted by barryh8138

Hi, newbie most likely asking a stupid question but anyway I can't seem to find the information after searching. I have a stock T28 except that I'm replacing the motor with a Eflite Power10. I can't seem to get enough torque to make the adapter grip onto the prop shaft.

I use a thick metal bar thru the nose to tighten it but i hate to really grip down with plyers or a vice in case it damages the Ali

Hope this makes sense.

I'm I missing something real simple to tighten onto the prop shaft. I notice the prop shaft has a flat area but I see no tapped hole to put a setscrew thru.

Help !!!!!!!!

I used the bigfoot 10, which has a different style of prop adapter. I do have a couple of power 25s, though. On those, I had to really push the collet back on the shaft, and then tighten the prop on. I don't like that style of prop adapter for 3D, but for the T-28, it's probably good enough, and might provide a break away function in the case of accident.

You might try putting something gritty between the collet and the shaft (e.g., material from sand paper). Keep it out of your motor, of course.

Be careful--I've had props and collets come off my power 25. Make sure nobody or property is in front of you when you test WOT. Make sure you're behind the prop, too, not above or on the side of it.

You need skills because it's inconsistent and unpredicatble. Cheap plastic gear servos (stripped one in a blender).

It rolls great. That's about the only good thing I can say about it.

I've done KE spins, blenders with it, but the flat top wings really bite, as does trying to land it in wind. The knife edges to one side are better than the other due to the cheap long and flimsy rudder control rod, which is better when pulling the rudder than when pushing. I really hate that plane. I just flew it the other day to compare to my EF extra 300 EXP.

The T-28 is still fun to fly, the extra is only good for seeing how it will almost crash next.

Okay, I'll admit it, I kind of like it, but only because it sucks so bad.

N6145K, I have to diagree with you here.

Sorry mate, but your comments is like complaining that a knife is useless for eating soup and a spoon sucks at cutting steaks.

First, the T28 (even the real one) is a trainer, not a fully aerobatic purpose designed plane. it is therefore wrong to expect the same kind of manouverability from it.

Next, because it is a low wing trainer and flies quite predictably it is a superb 2nd plane after one's first trainer and at the price it goes for it is much more affordable than most other planes (when comparing to balsa models) so it opens the door for many people to further their skills and their FUN without spending a fortune.

If you read through this thread you will see that many people have done modifications that allows it to fly and "Mach Plenty" and some of the videos posted all over are testimony to that.

The reason for posting this is that your comments may very well discourage a person who's researching prior to buying, and I still think it is a good choice.

Since December last year I've been teaching my son to fly, he was 12 when we started. After about 30 flights with docile top-wing trainers he was able to get his first taste of loops, immelmans and so on (on a buddy box with me) which served so spike his enthusiasm and transform his interest in flying to an addiction ( the plane was completely stock)

As for wind handling, I've flown and landed it in winds that had our (2" pipe) windsock pole swaying (not recommended unless you are a very experienced pilot), and so have many other people. This plane handles strong winds with ease.

I believe that your diffuculty in doing some aerobatic manouvers may be due to the dyhedral of the wings, which makes the plane stable to fly (it "wants" to fly with wings level) and therefore it is harder to hold steady in certain manouvers.

I therefore strongly recommend this plane as a 2nd plane to any person who is able to consistently take off, fly a pre-determined path and land with his first trainer plane.

Brgds,

Danny

All excelent points. But we were talking about the PZ extra 300 (look at the post I quoted and responded to). At least I was. Sorry that wasn't clear, I should have been explicit, instead of relying on the links and quote I was responding to to get context. The T-28 is still a lot of fun, and I recommend it. It was my first RC plane. The PZ extra 300 is fun in a perverse sort of way.

Originally Posted by Danny_l

N6145K, I have to diagree with you here.

Sorry mate, but your comments is like complaining that a knife is useless for eating soup and a spoon sucks at cutting steaks.

First, the T28 (even the real one) is a trainer, not a fully aerobatic purpose designed plane. it is therefore wrong to expect the same kind of manouverability from it.

Next, because it is a low wing trainer and flies quite predictably it is a superb 2nd plane after one's first trainer and at the price it goes for it is much more affordable than most other planes (when comparing to balsa models) so it opens the door for many people to further their skills and their FUN without spending a fortune.

If you read through this thread you will see that many people have done modifications that allows it to fly and "Mach Plenty" and some of the videos posted all over are testimony to that.

The reason for posting this is that your comments may very well discourage a person who's researching prior to buying, and I still think it is a good choice.

Since December last year I've been teaching my son to fly, he was 12 when we started. After about 30 flights with docile top-wing trainers he was able to get his first taste of loops, immelmans and so on (on a buddy box with me) which served so spike his enthusiasm and transform his interest in flying to an addiction ( the plane was completely stock)

As for wind handling, I've flown and landed it in winds that had our (2" pipe) windsock pole swaying (not recommended unless you are a very experienced pilot), and so have many other people. This plane handles strong winds with ease.

I believe that your diffuculty in doing some aerobatic manouvers may be due to the dyhedral of the wings, which makes the plane stable to fly (it "wants" to fly with wings level) and therefore it is harder to hold steady in certain manouvers.

I therefore strongly recommend this plane as a 2nd plane to any person who is able to consistently take off, fly a pre-determind path and land with his first trainer plane.

Brgds,

Danny

Thank you for clarifying.
The reason for my post was not to flame or offend you, but to make sure that people reading this forum while trying to decide whether to get a T28 or not do not get the wrong picture.

Brgds,
Danny

Originally Posted by ZackJones

Yup. What I did to correct it was take some clear packing tape and wrap it aound the front of the horizontal stab.

I think I had this same thing happen this weekend. I heard a flapping in the air and found that the white plastic film that covers the horizontal stabilizer has peeled off of the foam. Also, the two hinges have come loose. I'll use the packing tape to replace the film, but what do you recommend for the hinges? A club member said that bandage tape is good because it is flexible. But how do you attach it? Simply put a strip on the top and a matching one on the bottom? Or do you do something more elaborate? I was dissapointed that this happened - seems like a manufacturing problem - but I've had maybe 30 uneventful and fun flights on it, and this is not a major problem, so I can't complain. Thanks!

For the sake of nostalgia, I have decided to go and buy another T28 (PNP version). I learned to fly on a T28 and ended up converting it to a night flyer. It was perfect for this, however all the added weight really changed the characteristics of this plane.

So, I have an Eflite Power 10 aside, a CNC mount in transit and a 40A ESC ready to go in. Am I back to square one adding too much weight? I realise the extra power / thrust will more than compensate in flight, however will my float-in landings be retained or not?

Originally Posted by matthewcornell

I think I had this same thing happen this weekend. I heard a flapping in the air and found that the white plastic film that covers the horizontal stabilizer has peeled off of the foam. Also, the two hinges have come loose. I'll use the packing tape to replace the film, but what do you recommend for the hinges? A club member said that bandage tape is good because it is flexible. But how do you attach it? Simply put a strip on the top and a matching one on the bottom? Or do you do something more elaborate? I was dissapointed that this happened - seems like a manufacturing problem - but I've had maybe 30 uneventful and fun flights on it, and this is not a major problem, so I can't complain. Thanks!

I think what your club member is talking about is called Blenderm. It is made by 3M but hard to find at pharmacys now. You can get in on the net though. Typically what you do is to put a strip on top, then go full up elevator and put a strip on the bottom but push it in to the gap made when the elevator is fully extended. Hope that helps. Make sure what you get is indeed blenderm though, it will say so on the paper roll it is wrapped on.

Originally Posted by Grazer

For the sake of nostalgia, I have decided to go and buy another T28 (PNP version). I learned to fly on a T28 and ended up converting it to a night flyer. It was perfect for this, however all the added weight really changed the characteristics of this plane.

So, I have an Eflite Power 10 aside, a CNC mount in transit and a 40A ESC ready to go in. Am I back to square one adding too much weight? I realise the extra power / thrust will more than compensate in flight, however will my float-in landings be retained or not?

i have a stock Air Force T-28 and my Navy T-28 X the X-factor is a G10 motor bolted onto the stock mount, swinging a 10x7x3 Prop, a 55amp ESC and 2200mAh 4s batteries. This gives me about 850watts and 60amps maximum on the eagle tree logger. I also added carbon rods to the fuse, wings and tail feathers + and extra pilot i had to put in an extra strap to hold the battery in and move it to behind the spot it normally goes. Then i still had to add about 1oz of lead to the tail to get the CG right
BUT! what i ended up with is one fun plane that flys exceptionally well with nearly every onlooker asking "Whats That? it's not a stock T-28 is it?"

Warning this setup flies this plane nothing like the stock PZ T-28, it is much heavier and faster, so not really suited for the newbie i'm sure your gonna love your one when you finish it Grazer

cheers chuck

I am having trouble removing the prop from my Parkzone T-28D.

I am following the instructions and using thin screwdriver, inserted through the prop nut, to try to remove the nut, while holding the prop. It is very tight! The prop nut removes Counter-clockwise (normal thread) correct?
Does the Mfg put locktite on the thread or something?

Anyone else had this problem? If so, how did you remove the prop nut so that the prop can be removed?

Thanks RvE