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Old Mar 15, 2011, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by pkquat View Post
A dremel or rotozip with a ceramic type cutter works great. It leaves a pretty smooth surface on the side as long as you are moving opposite the rotation (I think?). One direction leaves a smooth surface and the other a rougher one. The bottom was pretty smooth.
Dremel grinding stones make a clean cut and they come in a range of shapes and sizes. I have tried the cutting bits but they tend to tear the foam up to much. Here is a picture of one of the grinding stones that works.

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Old Mar 15, 2011, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Dremel grinding stones make a clean cut and they come in a range of shapes and sizes. I have tried the cutting bits but they tend to tear the foam up to much. Here is a picture of one of the grinding stones that works.
That would work well too, though I have had some stones melt plastic / foam and stick to them if they are not coarse enough. The tile bits so far haven't torn foam.
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Old Mar 15, 2011, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by pkquat View Post
That would work well too, though I have had some stones melt plastic / foam and stick to them if they are not coarse enough. The tile bits so far haven't torn foam.
Fascinating, your experience is just the opposite of mine, but when I use the stone I don't buzz the DREMEL at max. It's pretty low speed with the stones so they only cut the foam not melt the foam. The edge is always a clean cut and almost knife like.

I also use a soldering gun for servo pockets and the like. I use a soldering gun with custom tips for various shapes that need to be cut. The trick with soldering gun is to pulse the trigger so it only gets hot enough to cut the foam. If you don't pulse the trigger it will get so hot it will vaporize the foam. Not good.
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Old Mar 16, 2011, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Fascinating, your experience is just the opposite of mine, but when I use the stone I don't buzz the DREMEL at max. It's pretty low speed with the stones so they only cut the foam not melt the foam. The edge is always a clean cut and almost knife like.

I also use a soldering gun for servo pockets and the like. I use a soldering gun with custom tips for various shapes that need to be cut. The trick with soldering gun is to pulse the trigger so it only gets hot enough to cut the foam. If you don't pulse the trigger it will get so hot it will vaporize the foam. Not good.
Yup you can't have things going too fast. It will build up heat too fast. A larger diameter or coarse solid stone helps keep the heat down as long as it isn't screaming fast. Any issues have been with the finer stones which people often think will give a smoother finish or using too small a stone.

I think the coarse teeth on the tile bits help keep the heat down. The rotozip is on it lower setting, whatever speed the original was at, and I think the dremels were between 1/4 and 1/2.

I have only tried the soldering iron method a few times and haven't mastered it yet. I wind up with some goop, strings, puddled once, and getting stuck at least once.
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Old Mar 16, 2011, 02:05 PM
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I posted a fair bit ago about my fix for getting a eflight motor mounted on to the motor mount see pic...



Well last week the motor mount cracked when the prop hit the ground on a belly landing, well things where going though my mind do I get another mount or get the ally ones that have been made, then Lud who I was flying with cherp up and said make that to, so I glued some ply to the front and used the eflight motor mount with washers to get the angle correct for the motor. Test flew it today fly's great a little adjustment for the added nose weight and it will be perfect. It also has fixed the vibration at full throttle as soon as I get a picture I will post it up
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Old Mar 16, 2011, 06:07 PM
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USA, NY, Depew
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Fascinating, your experience is just the opposite of mine, but when I use the stone I don't buzz the DREMEL at max. It's pretty low speed with the stones so they only cut the foam not melt the foam. The edge is always a clean cut and almost knife like.

I also use a soldering gun for servo pockets and the like. I use a soldering gun with custom tips for various shapes that need to be cut. The trick with soldering gun is to pulse the trigger so it only gets hot enough to cut the foam. If you don't pulse the trigger it will get so hot it will vaporize the foam. Not good.
I've done quite few pockets and slots in different planes made out of Z-foam and EPO. The best results were with exacto knife, or box cutter, but with brand new blade. I tried dremel, but didn't care for the mess. Round holes are done best with sharpened piece of thin metal tubing. If it is very deep hole, I'll use thin foam cutter wire first and go again with sharp tubing on the exposed side.

Rob
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Old Mar 16, 2011, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Twisted-heli View Post
I posted a fair bit ago about my fix for getting a eflight motor mounted on to the motor mount see pic...
Good idea. How do you like the Park 480 motor over stock? Notice any big difference using it?
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Old Mar 16, 2011, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by robusp View Post
I've done quite few pockets and slots in different planes made out of Z-foam and EPO. The best results were with exacto knife, or box cutter, but with brand new blade. I tried dremel, but didn't care for the mess. Round holes are done best with sharpened piece of thin metal tubing. If it is very deep hole, I'll use thin foam cutter wire first and go again with sharp tubing on the exposed side.

Rob
Rob,

I am glad you like your process for removing foam and the results are to your liking. There are, however, many effective ways of carving foam that range from hot wire; razor blades; Xacto knives; soldering guns with customer shaped tips; a Dremel with grinding stones (works great on Z foam) sharpened tubes, etc. I have even used a low watt soldering iron with a small countersunk screw in the tip that cuts a nice pocket that a 3mm piece of CF will snap right into. Also, a metal straight edge is a must to guide whatever tool you choose. This hobby is great for trying different methods to get the job done.

Bill
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Last edited by Prof100; Mar 17, 2011 at 07:30 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 01:29 AM
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So, I've managed to mangle the stock props I had on hand for my (stock) T28. Before I go to the LHS and pick up more of the overpriced HZ units, are there other (better?) props I may want to consider? Other than a 2.4 AR6100e Rx, plane is otherwise stock.
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ZackJones View Post
Good idea. How do you like the Park 480 motor over stock? Notice any big difference using it?
It was given to me with a crashed motor and never flew it with the stock, but have to say the eflight motor is very nice plenty of power and thats with the 910kv one may have to at some point try the 1020kv 480 eflight one
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Twisted-heli View Post
.... the eflight motor is very nice plenty of power and that's with the 910kv one may have to at some point try the 1020kv 480 Eflite one
I really wouldn't waste the $$ for a 1020 version because it won't make any appreciable difference in performance.

I ran an Eflite Park 480 (1020Kv) spinning the stock 2 bladed prop in my PZ F4U Corsair and found that even though it was quieter and seemed smoother, there was no discernible difference performance over the stock production motor.
It's a more than adequate, premium priced replacement but is not going to boost performance to the next level, that's for sure.

Of course, if you were to mount it in a HZ Super Cub, then you'd see it kick butt.
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 10:18 AM
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Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by Max Headspeed View Post
Of course, if you were to mount it in a HZ Super Cub, then you'd see it kick butt.
This I can vouch for personally. I put a Park 480 on my SC and it's ridiculously fast (and fun) now. I also added a flattened, clipped wing with ailerons and that plane flies like a dream now!

It's not nearly as agile as the T-28 (not that the T-28 is overly agile or anything) but it's still very fun to fly. It does beautiful slow rolls...
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 01:20 PM
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USA, FL, Jacksonville
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WANTED T-28 Firewall

If you have one that you would be willing to part with please let me know.
The ring portion on mine that keeps the wheel and rod from moving towards the prop and motor is busted, thanks
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 07:22 PM
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Manassas, Virginia
Joined May 2008
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I have found this comparison chart (link below) very helpful in choosing different brand motors and choosing props. For example if an airplane recommends a particular motor you can go here to find a different brand. Also if you look up the equivalent scorpion motor they tell you what range of props fit that motor and how many amps they use. Information you could also use for your particular brand.
Also look at the chart: Notice with any same size motor the higher the KV the weaker the motor. So recent posts about getting higher KV will just result in a less powerful motor. And as a trend, look at more and more powerful motors in the chart their KV trends down for all brands.
http://innov8tivedesigns.com/Scorpio...ison%20Web.htm (fixed the link)
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 10:00 PM
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USA, FL, Lakeland
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Why we never throw anything away.
"Junkyard Dog"

Patched up Trojan fuse, Cessna 337 balsa/covered wings, Predator LG, home made belly pan and top fuse, broken canopy cut down and bolted on, castering tail wheel with self built spring to limit travel, Rubber Maid plastic bowl cowl, Krylon paint.

Stock motor and prop, Castle 35 esc, Ultimate bec, Hitec 81 servos (ailerons are direct drive, no linkages), TP 3S2100.

Wing is 4" shorter w/s wise, but has a larger chord. According to the calcs it moved the CG back nearly 3/4".

Will it fly? Who knows. But at least it gave me something to do, and cleaned up a bunch of parts laying around. LOL!
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