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Old Jun 04, 2008, 04:37 AM
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Australia...we live inverted.
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Jason
Already read that story in a+b thread....bummer. Was considering doing upgrade but 4#3B seems so much better exept poss the gearing. People seem unsure on gears. Presumed Rossi would do that he said " dont think I'll stock 4#3 Fm too small and difficult" back in September 07 look at his parts for this now! He'll come around. By the way last main motor I got from him about 2 weeks ago was longer can version. Got my 4#3 to a point off hands off 5sec or so with flat paddles. So far Spain spring mod on mainshaft, spring on anti rotation, piano flybar (68mm), larger paddles (mine is one of the early small paddle version, better cg battery frame (from Terrance), solid brass 1.5mm rod flybar pivot (trickiest of all) alieron servo moved closer to mainshaft and braces rubber bands from swash to servo horn to reduce play. I fly 2nd servo hole out and nose in is pretty good. Currently trying tail first circuits. Have a Gaui 200 and this 4#3 is my trainer to stop me smashing up the Gaui..that would suck. Cant wait for the 4#3B. What are absoloute nessessary mods if any for the 4#3B. Is there a consences yet! haha
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Old Jun 04, 2008, 06:05 AM
Micro-Heli-Concepts
jasonjetski's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Blacktown
Joined Dec 2006
4,984 Posts
Honestly,
Open the box,Tighten the main blades up a bit,But be carefull the screws in the blades are not good like the V1 is.
I wound the front link one turn in.
Then gave her a go.
At first I was a bit radical,but I sat it down and wound the expo pot back to minimum and although I need to hang off the sticks.It is awsome.
You can literally hover in a 2 inch area.
The first thing you will notice is the lack of noise.
Maybe we should offer Rossi a test flight to make him stock them and parts.
I put the spring around the anti rotation bracket,but took it off,you don't need to mod it at all.
You will love it
Jason
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Old Jun 04, 2008, 10:57 PM
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Thanks Jason
I am waiting impatiently for delivery. Ehirobo has shipped it yesterday (ordered Tue 7pm) so fingers crossed will be here soon. If blade screws are crap they are probably not high tensile like the V1's are (presume so as they are black). Will V1 screws fit. B's screws locate into aluminium don't they which is why they may break as they would be fine metal thread not coarse thread like V1. They may be designed to absorb shock by bending with super crash like Gauis are but I haven't heard of people bending them. Going to linish 3mm carbon tube (smallest avail at LHS) down to 2.6mm for press fit tail boom tonight sick of 2.5 mm getting twisty due to set screw. Will prob do to B as well.
Amp
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Old Jun 04, 2008, 11:27 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ampdraw
Thanks Jason
I am waiting impatiently for delivery. Ehirobo has shipped it yesterday (ordered Tue 7pm) so fingers crossed will be here soon. If blade screws are crap they are probably not high tensile like the V1's are (presume so as they are black). Will V1 screws fit. B's screws locate into aluminium don't they which is why they may break as they would be fine metal thread not coarse thread like V1. They may be designed to absorb shock by bending with super crash like Gauis are but I haven't heard of people bending them. Going to linish 3mm carbon tube (smallest avail at LHS) down to 2.6mm for press fit tail boom tonight sick of 2.5 mm getting twisty due to set screw. Will prob do to B as well.
Amp
my v2 blades were getting floppy, think it is not the screw as much as the bladeholder wearing

used some v1 blade screws-the bit into the alu better-

they are 1-3mm too long though-works fine-just not as asthetically pleasing

I am going to get slightly smaller diameter steel or brass boom and dip in my liquid electric tape to make nice pressure fitted boom

smaller diameter should offset any weight gain

I use magnet wires on tail anyway, so narrower boom is ok

that might be a good forgotten mod!

tip of the day:

first time you change your tail/boom replace stock wires with magnet wire

stock wire will partially break in boom on bad crash -even if boom doesnt break, can give hard to find problems with tail

makes your tail even more worry free

whole tail is only part walkera didnt improve in some way between v1 and v2

wish they had!

mk
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Old Jun 04, 2008, 11:51 PM
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mk
Tried al tube inserts a few days ago in standard boom but wires didn't fit and press fit was too tight ended up splitting boom on trial fit so fitted old shorter boom (-6mm) for now. Tried alu boom not so long ago.. not as strong sideways but good torsionally. Want rock solid cf boom (dreaming) without opening frame mount out. Whats the story with mag wire? It is lighter but why is it stronger? Is it avail at elec stores described as magnet wire? Saw stuff that had epoxy coating for insulation instead of std rubber is that the stuff? Normal solder to plug wires and tail wires or new virgin plug and crimp? As you can see concentrating on sorting tail before it arrives!!
Amp
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Old Jun 05, 2008, 12:05 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ampdraw
mk
Tried al tube inserts a few days ago in standard boom but wires didn't fit and press fit was too tight ended up splitting boom on trial fit so fitted old shorter boom (-6mm) for now. Tried alu boom not so long ago.. not as strong sideways but good torsionally. Want rock solid cf boom (dreaming) without opening frame mount out. Whats the story with mag wire? It is lighter but why is it stronger? Is it avail at elec stores described as magnet wire? Saw stuff that had epoxy coating for insulation instead of std rubber is that the stuff? Normal solder to plug wires and tail wires or new virgin plug and crimp? As you can see concentrating on sorting tail before it arrives!!
Amp
yes standard epoxy enamel coated wire, lighter, doesnt break or short as easy as stock tail wires- single wire -not multi strand.

multi strand can partially break in a crash and only get part of the power you should-has happened a few times to me!

got 4 different guages at radio shack for under $5

soldered old tail wire conn. on to it

alu booms are ok and cheap- my lhs has one that is exact diameter of 4#3 boom-$2 for 8-10 booms isnt bad

once they bend you can bend back for smooth flight- but will eventually be s shaped

I dream of a solid boom too

marios is great-but want smaller heli

think harder materiel in smaller dia. is best route-then if pressure fitted -wont bend in crash as easily



mk
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Old Jun 05, 2008, 12:14 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
tail

I was amazed how well my tail held for first 200 flights are so-even when I went bl -didnt even need to trim the tail!

best way I know to help tail, especially on a new heli you dont want to operate on it right away, is to take off set screw on each end of boom, and drill a divet in the boom.

then when you put screws back in, they have somewhere to hold boom -rather than applying pressure to crack it

if it starts to wear, turn boom 90 degees and realign tail

spinning the boom to keep it whole is another old trick!

(all of 8 months!)

mk
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Old Jun 05, 2008, 12:55 AM
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mk,
Read of someone using stainless hypordermic needle tube as tail boom and a 1mm version for flybar (hollow too). That was material I wanted but difficult to find (like the braces rubber bands I use to remove slop between servo horn and swash had to buy from dentist!). Stain tube would have been sweet on V1 esp for the flybar. Wont need flybar change on B it seems. Only wonder if we take all flex (shock resistance) out of boom will we break mount and cause larger problem. Ca trick on original boom works well but time consuming (and heli's aren't!) and strengthens as well trying to avoid set screw completely . By the way 2.59-2.6mm is good thickness for fit in V1. Trying to find the link for the compatible parts V1 and B from German site cause no parts in Aus yet besides complete head.
Amp
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Old Jun 05, 2008, 05:41 AM
Micro-Heli-Concepts
jasonjetski's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Blacktown
Joined Dec 2006
4,984 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ampdraw
mk,
Read of someone using stainless hypordermic needle tube as tail boom and a 1mm version for flybar (hollow too). That was material I wanted but difficult to find (like the braces rubber bands I use to remove slop between servo horn and swash had to buy from dentist!). Stain tube would have been sweet on V1 esp for the flybar. Wont need flybar change on B it seems. Only wonder if we take all flex (shock resistance) out of boom will we break mount and cause larger problem. Ca trick on original boom works well but time consuming (and heli's aren't!) and strengthens as well trying to avoid set screw completely . By the way 2.59-2.6mm is good thickness for fit in V1. Trying to find the link for the compatible parts V1 and B from German site cause no parts in Aus yet besides complete head.
Amp
Do you mean this page?
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Old Jun 05, 2008, 06:24 AM
Micro-Heli-Concepts
jasonjetski's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Blacktown
Joined Dec 2006
4,984 Posts
I found the reason I keep stripping the blade screws without the blades being tight is because on mine,Both top and bottom of the blade holder are threaded.So that means that the blade holders cant squeeze together unless the top bladeholder loses its thread,but the screws eat their heads first,So I just got a 1mm drill and drilled the upper blade holder screw hole out.
Now I can tighten the blades properly.
Jason
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Old Jun 05, 2008, 07:55 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonjetski
Do you mean this page?

that chart is wrong in so many ways!

they share more parts then that seems to suggest

mk
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Old Jun 05, 2008, 08:09 AM
I crash therefore I am
Vimd's Avatar
Queensland Australia
Joined Nov 2007
876 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ampdraw
I'M IN AUSTRALIA BUT 4#3B ISNT;
Hi Australians I'm kinda new here (vocally that is) live in Narrabeen Sydney. Have 4#3 all modded to RCG spec flys well but can't wait till Dec for 4G3 so.... just ordered a B from Ehirobo so see how I go. Ended up $140.00 Aus with a set of blades (only spares they carry). I used paypal and didn't use their conversion rate...thanks for tip Jasonjetski... so paid US dollar but with paypal conv rate. Also Brett from east coast hobbies seems like friendly vendor to deal with (when he gets parts). Airborne Rc are usually quick on uptake suprising though they have metal head conversion but no other parts. RC Hobby will end up stocking I would say but Rossi usually plays it a little safe and susses demand. Good to see some people in Aus on this forum feel a little less isolated!

Hi Ampdraw,

I also ordered from the same place a week and a half ago and got mine today. It came out of the box with a broken main blade but 2 sets of spares (1 x 4#3B and 1 x original - maybe they saw the broken one and threw in the extra).

The tail pinion was binding - something I look for after my experience with my first V1. The plug for the charger was wrong too but I was kind of expecting that as it has happened to me before. I have a few others.

Apart from those slight teething probs I just nipped up the main blades a bit and off I went. What a difference out of the box compared to the V1. It took me ages to sort out my first one but the "B" flies like a dream. So smooth and quiet. Lots of smiles tonight.
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Old Jun 05, 2008, 08:19 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ampdraw
mk,
Read of someone using stainless hypordermic needle tube as tail boom and a 1mm version for flybar (hollow too). That was material I wanted but difficult to find (like the braces rubber bands I use to remove slop between servo horn and swash had to buy from dentist!). Stain tube would have been sweet on V1 esp for the flybar. Wont need flybar change on B it seems. Only wonder if we take all flex (shock resistance) out of boom will we break mount and cause larger problem. Ca trick on original boom works well but time consuming (and heli's aren't!) and strengthens as well trying to avoid set screw completely . By the way 2.59-2.6mm is good thickness for fit in V1. Trying to find the link for the compatible parts V1 and B from German site cause no parts in Aus yet besides complete head.
Amp
from boom back v1 and v2 are the same!

mk
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Old Jun 06, 2008, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonjetski
Do you mean this page?
Thats the one thanks Jason.
Amp
PS To Everyone wasn't being rude yesterday forgot to log out. Don't you hate that!
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Old Jun 06, 2008, 02:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vimd
Hi Ampdraw,

I also ordered from the same place a week and a half ago and got mine today. It came out of the box with a broken main blade but 2 sets of spares (1 x 4#3B and 1 x original - maybe they saw the broken one and threw in the extra).

The tail pinion was binding - something I look for after my experience with my first V1. The plug for the charger was wrong too but I was kind of expecting that as it has happened to me before. I have a few others.

Apart from those slight teething probs I just nipped up the main blades a bit and off I went. What a difference out of the box compared to the V1. It took me ages to sort out my first one but the "B" flies like a dream. So smooth and quiet. Lots of smiles tonight.
Vimd,
Think you were in discussion with Jason and others about Ehirobo and others. If that is true it is prob your posts I calculated delivery time from. Looked at your ordered post and your I'm happy post. 9 days so I should see Wed next. Waiting patiently though... really. Will check all normal stuff when B arrives. Worst I can see for first timers is if indervidual wire ends weren't in plugs properly can you imagine the torment. Parcel arrives.....charge...plug in....puff of smoke...countless hours troubleshooting...finally new rec. Wouldn't that suck. Only positive out of that (for me atleast) they may leave hobby and not buy my 4G3!
Amp
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