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Old May 17, 2008, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by drscraggs
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P.S xrayted, are you in UK? I assume so since you bought from buzzflyer. Where did you get your 4#3b? Ive got one on order from terrence but am just curios.
No Im in the U.S. but when I saw the Buzzfly I just had to have it, so I paid roughly double the cost in British Pounds because of the currency exchange!! I had no idea that Walkera made the thing and would be selling it themselves until months later when the forum started blowing up around Christmas with excitement over it. By then I was about 400.00 US into it with all the spare parts and ally case and saw it was then available for about 100.00
I got both my recent ones from Terrence. It only takes about 7-8 days to get my stuff from him here to the US. Ive ordered about three times so far and he is great. I dont think he gets the metal stuff until last week of May because Im waiting on about three of everything for mine from him. I hate waiting on parts so I usually buy a few of every peice on my helis just to have here at home. Its like a hobby shop here with all the helis I have
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Old May 17, 2008, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sketchaholic
If you removed the 4in1 from the body to get to the little plugs and the foam tape isn't as sticky any more you could try replacing the tape so that the 4in1 is held securely to the frame. Any vibrations on the 4in1 will also cause odd results.
An interesting suggestion, I hadn't thought of this one.
I'll take a look at that. Thanks!
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Old May 17, 2008, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xrayted
I guess its really all in what the user really wants. The same money could go to a nice 400-450 size heli if thats what your after, but if its a nice little indoor heli, this one cant be beat in its newest form.
Happy flying whatever your decision may be
If one bought a new Jaguar, and it spent 90% of its time in the shop, one would have grave reservations about buying another one. That's where I'm at with this. I'd love to believe that Walkera has fixed the problems with it, because I think it's a great idea. The quality is just so low that I have a hard time convincing myself to invest in another one.

But it's not totally out of the question just yet.
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Old May 17, 2008, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Vtwin
If one bought a new Jaguar, and it spent 90% of its time in the shop, one would have grave reservations about buying another one. That's where I'm at with this. I'd love to believe that Walkera has fixed the problems with it, because I think it's a great idea. The quality is just so low that I have a hard time convincing myself to invest in another one.

But it's not totally out of the question just yet.
Cant blame you for that. It took a leap of faith to buy my second one as well. Once I saw how much better it was, a third was here within 2 weeks.
Its a tough decision based on prior bad experiences. Kyosho has one this size coming out very soon so maybe wait and give that one a look. They have a good reputation with their products
Good luck
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Old May 17, 2008, 11:08 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
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actually I had notices that-also v1 tail motors are just slightly smaller than v2-v1 motors are slightly loose in tailcase

mk
Quote:
Originally Posted by tterence
The tail boom is same as V1.
Here is the list of parts same as V1:
flybar paddle
Tail rotor
Flybar connector
Rotor head ring
linkage set
Skid landing
Tail gear
Tail knighthead
Tail motor holder
Tail boom
Tail motor wire

Interesting thing is "Tail rotor". If you check, V1 should be using tail rotor in diameter of 50mm, but V2 is 48mm only. Since I got the official catalog from Walkera and indicated Tail Rotor is the same as V1. I called to Walkera to confirm it, and I was told that V1 had changed to use 48mm diameter tail rotor long time ago. Then I checked all my 4#3 V1 and tail rotor parts, yes all are 48mm diameters.
-----------
CJ
(Pre-order of Metal Version 4#3B is only $178 Shipped!)
http://www.chinesejade.com/walkera.htm
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Old May 17, 2008, 11:13 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xrayted
I know how you feel. I bought the first version of the 4#3 long before most in the forum even had one. I had one under name "Buzzfly" from the UK before the Walkera craze hit hard around October of last year with everyone and I spent more time working on it than flying it. Constant broken parts and parts needeing adjustment, bad electronic glitching and burining up main and tail motors after only a couple flights.
I must say though now, that the newer 2.4 version has been a dream! I spend little to no time doing anything but flying. I was so impressed that I bought two...metal and plastic version and love them both. Walkera seems to have adressed almost all of the issues from the past so if you are constantly suffering with frustration from yours and you do need new servos and a new 4&1, you may just be better off spending the 130.00 bucks it takes to get a brand new 2.4 version. Even the radio is bigger and better and feels more "grown up". Both of mine flew right out of the box (this assumes you can fly this little guy in the first palce) so I rarely if ever crash bad enough to do any damage so I am very happy now
so you have a 4#3a??? I havent heard any input on these(new head,gearing,etc but plastic)

how does it compare to 4#3b????

more flight time? durability??


no one has given feedback on this one anywhere yet!

mk
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Old May 17, 2008, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
so you have a 4#3a??? I havent heard any input on these(new head,gearing,etc but plastic)

how does it compare to 4#3b????

more flight time? durability??


no one has given feedback on this one anywhere yet!

mk
Thats where Im still a little confused with all the new "names" I purchased the metal B version and within a week got the plastic 2.4 ghz version as well. The plastic version has the same small canopy as the old version BUT has a different motor and a larger pinion on it. The spare main gears and motor pinions from my original 4#3 are not the same as I discovered when trying to put an old spare motor in today (I dropped a screw which stuck to the motor in the heli and of course ended up inside the hole in the case!!)
hated to throw a good motor out just for that.
The main gear on my plastic one is not the same as the metal version but once again is not the same mesh as the old,old 4#3 either. Either way this one flys great and barely gets warm at all after flying. 95 degrees after a 5-7 minute hover. I dont know what you call this plastic one, but its surely better than my old one.
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Old May 17, 2008, 11:27 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
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gear mesh

it is so critical for flight times with v1 and especially v2!

it is much easier to set mesh of brushed system than a bl setup

brushed motors cog so pinion doesnt turn easy

I get gear/pinion as close as I can together and just leave the barest play between-just enough so that main gear can rotate about 1/10th of 1 degree

if you can wiggle your main gear at all it is too loose

bl motors are twice as hard-pinion will turn-so you need to hold pinion and feel for mesh

v2 gears are a biotch to mesh-super fine,and takes a "feel" to sense that miniscule amount of play

also since you have to mod your frame-BE ULTRA-CAREFUL WHEN MODDING V2 FRAME FOR BL MOTOR MOUNTING!--will repeat,it needs it-BE ULTRA-CAREFUL WHEN MODDING V2 FRAME FOR BL MOTOR MOUNTING!

go slow when widening mount holes-it is easy to mess up and no room to f@ck up-also remember to drill hole in battery cage!

mk
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Old May 17, 2008, 11:28 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xrayted
Thats where Im still a little confused with all the new "names" I purchased the metal B version and within a week got the plastic 2.4 ghz version as well. The plastic version has the same small canopy as the old version BUT has a different motor and a larger pinion on it. The spare main gears and motor pinions from my original 4#3 are not the same as I discovered when trying to put an old spare motor in today (I dropped a screw which stuck to the motor in the heli and of course ended up inside the hole in the case!!)
hated to throw a good motor out just for that.
The main gear on my plastic one is not the same as the metal version but once again is not the same mesh as the old,old 4#3 either. Either way this one flys great and barely gets warm at all after flying. 95 degrees after a 5-7 minute hover. I dont know what you call this plastic one, but its surely better than my old one.
which head and blade holders?? that is my main curiousity

mk
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Old May 17, 2008, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
which head and blade holders?? that is my main curiousity

mk
The head and blade holders on this new plastic one are the same as the old version BUT for some reason the flybar moves much easier. My first one as many others was very stiff and took a lot of work to get it loose. This one is just as loose as the metal version but to look at it, it looks the same as before. I cant tell if they have made the blade holder ball connectors just a tad longer or something to free it up. If so, its by a minute amount because it looks the same.
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Old May 17, 2008, 11:57 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
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4#3a

well, I think they did some minor improvents even on old style parts

but I am very curious about differances between 4#3a and 4#3b!

first one to post a decent comparison gets a prize(hint-see my screen name)

usual legal disclaimers!(grin)

mk
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Old May 17, 2008, 11:57 PM
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So, is there any kind of a "how to" or some instructions on setting the gear mesh?
And what's the consequence of it being "wrong"?
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Old May 18, 2008, 12:12 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
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spare parts to buy when ordering

here is MY list of parts to order when buying a 4#3b

main blades! as of right now, weakest part of 4#3b now(imho)-mine came with an extra set-but these are twice as fragile as v1 blades-but still better than larger helis!

lipo(s) and charger-have stated my position on this!

booms-same as v1- my weak point

main gear-will last but even with improved set pin design, I had to cut mine to remove

t/r blades and knighthead-just because you can thow them if you crash or dont check heli often

screw set--do I have to say why??

the only part that actually seems to be wearing is my o-rings and links to bladeholder-plus link spares are always good-so

link set

feathering shaft/oring part

also flybar paddles and flybar would be good spares-but havent even adjusted mine yet!

motors?-well you get spare main(at least I did) havent used second yet-but a spare of each is always comforting

so spare that are critical--blades boom and parts you might lose!

these servos rock! On v1 would have been on my 3rd set!

mk
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Old May 18, 2008, 12:16 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vtwin
So, is there any kind of a "how to" or some instructions on setting the gear mesh?
And what's the consequence of it being "wrong"?
my post on gear mesh was my how to!!

lol

too tight-it binds and cut flight time and heats motor and such more-higher friction in power system

too loose and it eats gear/pinion, also flight stresses cause it to slip or miss-power is transfered into making the parts impact each other-not good

mk
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Old May 18, 2008, 12:17 AM
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Microkites,
I heard a radio show offer a gift instead of a prize once because when they offer a gift to their listeners,they don't need any terms and conditions.
Jason
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