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Old May 22, 2008, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sketchaholic
V2 blades cost more than the V1 blades, so I would assume Walkera will contact the vedors to let us know they are giving us cheaper spares. They have been good at doing so in the past.

Walkera, hurry up and ship the helis already! Lots of people waiting.

Are the helis arriving to you via surface, or aircargo?
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Old May 22, 2008, 12:41 AM
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aircargo.
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Old May 22, 2008, 01:51 AM
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_.-=ITCHY=-._'s Avatar
Puhoi
Joined Mar 2008
29 Posts
CNC help

hey guys.
i think ive read over 60 pages of posts today and ive just been out side trying to fly, well umm lets say "crash less often"
the 4#3 dam sensitive little bugger .it is after owning a v4 lama .
so i think im overloaded with info and i would like to ask a question or two
which have probably already been asked im i know,but the answers were confusing
#1 flybars is short better for stability, seems opposite to my reckoning ,ie a man on a tight rope uses a long bar to balance
#2 re:cnc ali parts for new V3 can i use the rotor headset and blade holder and balance bar setup on my old V1 with V1 blades and V1 main gear?
cause the same upgrade to the lama was a great improvement
im starting to loose interest in this one fast after one month
and i really need to see some light at the end of the spare parts tunnel
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Old May 22, 2008, 02:04 AM
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4#3 2.4ghz plastic help please!

I am new to the heli scene and im in need of answers. After a couple dramatic crashes i have to hold the cyclic control all the way to the right in order for the heli to hover but once i let go of the right cyclic the heli would bank to the left like theres no tomorrow and it does this every single time! its so annoying...can someone please help me out. Thanks
Jimmy
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Old May 22, 2008, 02:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _.-=ITCHY=-._
hey guys.
i think ive read over 60 pages of posts today and ive just been out side trying to fly, well umm lets say "crash less often"
the 4#3 dam sensitive little bugger .it is after owning a v4 lama .
so i think im overloaded with info and i would like to ask a question or two
which have probably already been asked im i know,but the answers were confusing
#1 flybars is short better for stability, seems opposite to my reckoning ,ie a man on a tight rope uses a long bar to balance
#2 re:cnc ali parts for new V3 can i use the rotor headset and blade holder and balance bar setup on my old V1 with V1 blades and V1 main gear?
cause the same upgrade to the lama was a great improvement
im starting to loose interest in this one fast after one month
and i really need to see some light at the end of the spare parts tunnel
Hello ITCHY. On a coax which has no flybar paddles, making it shorter will increase the sensitivity of the heli. Single rotor helis with flybar paddles are different to some degree. Making the flybar longer gives the paddles more leverage and therfore the effect is greater on the heli.....so more sensitive. BUT, making the flybar longer if metal, also adds weight which calms it down, so its not always so black and white and there are a lot of factors.
Shorter bar, smaller paddles, and heavier flybar= less sensitive
On the CNC issue....I have both the old version and the metal heli and when I look at the parts, it looks as if you can put a 4#3 B metal head, swash and rotor grips into the older version with no issues. The flybar will surely work just fine and it all will work with your old main gear and blades.
Someone please correct me If im wrong here
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Old May 22, 2008, 02:14 AM
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Australia, NSW, Blacktown
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmylittle
I am new to the heli scene and im in need of answers. After a couple dramatic crashes i have to hold the cyclic control all the way to the right in order for the heli to hover but once i let go of the right cyclic the heli would bank to the left like theres no tomorrow and it does this every single time! its so annoying...can someone please help me out. Thanks
Jimmy
Jimmy,
There could be lots of reasons for this,but recently I have had my 4#3 do a similar thing.
I found that the swash plate starts to come apart.
The bearing inside is moving out of its socket.
I simply just use long nose pliers and press the swash plate back together.
So take a look at the swash plate and make sure the inner and outer parts are even all around.
Again,This is just something I have noticed on my one.There may be servo problems or something else.
Either way,I hope it helps.
Jason
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Old May 22, 2008, 02:19 AM
Pilot of Death
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Puhoi
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xrayted
Hello ITCHY. On a coax which has no flybar paddles, making it shorter will increase the sensitivity of the heli. Single rotor helis with flybar paddles are different to some degree. Making the flybar longer gives the paddles more leverage and therfore the effect is greater on the heli.....so more sensitive. BUT, making the flybar longer if metal, also adds weight which calms it down, so its not always so black and white and there are a lot of factors.
Shorter bar, smaller paddles, and heavier flybar= less sensitive
On the CNC issue....I have both the old version and the metal heli and when I look at the parts, it looks as if you can put a 4#3 B metal head, swash and rotor grips into the older version with no issues. The flybar will surely work just fine and it all will work with your old main gear and blades.
Someone please correct me If im wrong here
ohhh! ok im using piano wire atm so no prob there to make shorter/longer
smaller paddles ! will do ! i have spares what would a long and short flybar length be?
if std is 70mm any size to start me off ?
im thinking cnc will work on the V1 not that ive seen the parts close up but still great if someone has done this if not i have a fully equipped dremel handy
and im quite willing to use it!
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Old May 22, 2008, 02:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _.-=ITCHY=-._
ohhh! ok im using piano wire atm so no prob there to make shorter/longer
smaller paddles ! will do ! i have spares what would a long and short flybar length be?
if std is 70mm any size to start me off ?
im thinking cnc will work on the V1 if not i have a fully equipped dremel handy
and im quite willing to use it!
There really is no set size. Its completely up to you. I would just take a few mm off and experiment to your liking. More important that you have the exact same amount of bar on each side. If you calm it down too much it will become very "spongy" and will lag behind your transmitter commands. The really old 4#3's had smaller flybar paddles compared to the ones that are on them now.
Wait and see what the other other guys say regarding the metal parts before you commit. I have the parts side by side and it certainly looks like you could just drop in a new shaft with metal head, grips and swash and be fine but get a second opinion before spending 40.00 on parts.
Another trick is to put a small amount of positive pitch in both your flybar paddles. This settles it down a bit
good luck
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Old May 22, 2008, 02:35 AM
Pilot of Death
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Puhoi
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xrayted
There really is no set size. Its completely up to you. I would just take a few mm off and experiment to your liking. More important that you have the exact same amount of bar on each side. If you calm it down too much it will become very "spongy" and will lag behind your transmitter commands. The really old 4#3's had smaller flybar paddles compared to the ones that are on them now.
Wait and see what the other other guys say regarding the metal parts before you commit. I have the parts side by side and it certainly looks like you could just drop in a new shaft with metal head, grips and swash and be fine but get a second opinion before spending 40.00 on parts.
Another trick is to put a small amount of positive pitch in both your flybar paddles. This settles it down a bit
good luck
Ah HA! i have those small ones here as well somewhere i wondered about those being different

milimertres huh! i was thinking centimetres +/- 2.5cm
just checking positive pitch is up, right? of course it is !
and i have two more plastic blade holders left
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Old May 22, 2008, 02:57 AM
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any news on the arrival of the copters today terrence?
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Old May 22, 2008, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _.-=ITCHY=-._
Ah HA! i have those small ones here as well somewhere i wondered about those being different

milimertres huh! i was thinking centimetres +/- 2.5cm
just checking positive pitch is up, right? of course it is !
and i have two more plastic blade holders left
yeah, just take about 5 mm off each side of the 70mm flybar, add your smaller paddles with a little upward pitch and try. These things are really small, so small changes make a big difference. You dont want it to be a dog and lag behind your commands. This make the heli even harder to fly because its always a second behind your transmitter inputs and you will tend to over correct. I havent checked the weight of the newer paddles vs the old. they have more surface area so they should be more sensitive because of greater leverage, but if they are heavier then we go back the other way and its a wash. Its just as easy for you to try them both and see what you like better.
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Old May 22, 2008, 03:11 AM
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Puhoi
Joined Mar 2008
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Thanks Xrayted
ill give it a go tomorrow
after work
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Old May 22, 2008, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drscraggs
any news on the arrival of the copters today terrence?
Should be arrived to me tonight or tomorrow morning.
All pre-orders will be shipped out this week with no problem. I will email tracking number to all buyers on weekend.
-----------
CJ
(Pre-order of Metal Version 4#3B is only $178 Shipped!)
http://www.chinesejade.com/walkera.htm
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Old May 22, 2008, 06:33 AM
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Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWJL511
I think it will as my vendor was asking me to replace my old 4#3 motor with one of them. Not sure though.




Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
would think so-, at most might need to bend the link, like when you go bl

mk
Thanks guys.

Sketch, what do you say? Is this new motor a good transplant?
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Old May 22, 2008, 07:48 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
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cnc parts will work on v1

shaft is same and so are distances

I havent tried it because I sold off all my v1 parts!

<--stupid

v2 frame is too long for v1 gearing without extensive mods

but with v1 frame,gear and blades, cnc parts should be fine-maybe a little heavier-but that is it

really want to try v1 gearing and v2 head/blades!

am modding my mia frame(servo mounts) to accomplish this

will post when I have time

mk
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