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Old Nov 29, 2008, 05:07 PM
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Joined Oct 2007
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A few more notes after a few more flights

I found a small RC club here in Durango. Airfield is a cleared section of field South of town. Pretty rough but the Apprentice wheels are big enough for a few small potholes and it doesn't take much of a distance to take off and land. Have gotten in quite a few more flights now.

One thing I did was to install an old, small Minolta digital camera (the slim pocket variety but it will also take moves). Made a styrofoam mount to give it some forward view and strapped it down under the battery compartment with some rubber bands. Can get 12 minutes of movies with it. Very little (if any) change in flilght characteristics. I did keep it centered on CG so no change front to back. I have a very small (size of a thumb drive) eDVR that will also take 12 minutes of video. Being much smaller, I can afford to position it off of CG with no effects.

The big change that I recommend is to replace the original connector with a Deans Ultra and lengthen the wires from the ESC to the connector so you can route them thru the fuse to the back side of the battery compartment. Makes connects and disconnects real easy.

I am working on a micro processor circuit to sense the LiPo voltage under load and signal (via strobe LEDs or Piezo) when cell voltage gets to about 3.1-3.2v. Just some insurance to not go below 3v even if the ESC has some built in features for this. Gives me a little more warning with full power. It will also take the (unused) channel 5 output of RX to sound the piezo. This could be useful to locate a lost plane that can still receive signals. All in proto stage now...let you know how it works.
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Old Nov 29, 2008, 05:17 PM
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Snoopy
Hope you post your experience with the skis. We already have a lot of snow in Colo and would like to try them if they work well. I can't tell from the pics, but do they stay horizonal in flight or assume some verticle orientation?

You could always hand launch the baby if still waiting for snow
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Old Nov 29, 2008, 08:39 PM
Timmmaaaahhh!!!
whitehawk's Avatar
NW Indiana
Joined Mar 2008
502 Posts
Regarding lost model alarms: I have a Loc8tor tag in each of my models. The clear range is claimed to be 400 feet. Haven't have a need to try it out yet, thank goodness! Here's a link:

http://www.loc8tor.com
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Old Nov 29, 2008, 08:45 PM
Timmmaaaahhh!!!
whitehawk's Avatar
NW Indiana
Joined Mar 2008
502 Posts
Sir Krashalot,

I'm interested in knowing how your project turns out.

Tim
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Old Nov 29, 2008, 08:55 PM
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Joined Oct 2007
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Neat device...a bit pricey at 80 bucks for the lite version....but could be worth it if it gets your plane back!

My approach will depend on the intensity of the piezo...you can get a 100dB for 10 bucks and the electronics is just a couple bucks...so will have to see if it works good enough to hear at a distance.

Even if it doesn't pan out, I will have a platform to play real aircraft sounds as it flies by! These electrics are wayyyyy too quiet

I'll post results when I get there...good Winter project for snowy days.
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Last edited by Sir Krashalot; Nov 29, 2008 at 08:59 PM. Reason: another thought
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Old Nov 30, 2008, 02:56 AM
iCharger 106B user
Lab, Slovak Republic
Joined Jun 2008
400 Posts
Regarding leds and lipo alarm, tryto visit Thanh's liglow page and order your own customized setup. Very friendly guy :-)

p.s. i'musing maxpro lipo akarm with blinking leds an buzzer as a final stage of protection.
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Old Nov 30, 2008, 09:01 AM
will work for stick time
Don Shimoda's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Apr 2006
267 Posts
I've been using this lost model locator for a few years.

http://www.skykingrcproducts.com/acc...del_alarm.html

It's $20, and I plug it into channel 5 on my receiver, so I can activate it with my Landing Gear switch if needed.
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Old Nov 30, 2008, 11:20 AM
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I've seen quite a few of the commercial units. I'm going to try and integrate many of these onto one common processor..more flexibility, customization and ability to add more stuff (oh yea and cheap). If people have ideas on what would be useful and cool, I'd love to hear them.
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Old Nov 30, 2008, 11:49 AM
iCharger 106B user
Lab, Slovak Republic
Joined Jun 2008
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will it be atmega or pic?
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Old Nov 30, 2008, 12:21 PM
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I program on the PIC Micros....mostly RISC processors.
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Old Dec 01, 2008, 04:23 PM
Keep Flying
Swedesboro NJ
Joined May 2008
752 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Krashalot
Snoopy
Hope you post your experience with the skis. We already have a lot of snow in Colo and would like to try them if they work well. I can't tell from the pics, but do they stay horizonal in flight or assume some verticle orientation?

You could always hand launch the baby if still waiting for snow
I hope to check these out as soon as we get some snow,we had a dusting and i took it out on the lawn and it just sank threw the snow to the grass and would not go so i need a bit more than a dusting,i set them in the position they are in they are spring loaded so when the back hit the front will come down level on the snow when you take off the will spring back to the position they are in now ..you can set them at any position but this is trial and error.they will not go up any higher in the front there is a screw on the side that holds the front of the skis from going up any higher than they are set Hope this helps

Ron
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Old Dec 07, 2008, 03:21 PM
iCharger 106B user
Lab, Slovak Republic
Joined Jun 2008
400 Posts
Today i crashed hard
And one of the wires from motor went out, when i checked it i saw a cold joint, that wasn't strong enough (almost no solder left on wire).
Look

more to comment



Maybe it is something for David to better QA.

So i started to disassemble motor to solder it back (can't solder it now), again the quality of the plastics and metal screw-worm are BAD. Plastic is soft, and won't last for long if you need to maintain motor and motor mount, few screw in and out and plastic will be wornout and will not hold. Those screworm are soft too, i used 1.5mm hex and easily broke that hex hole.
One can't be screwed out, the one from the back of motor, where wires coming in to motor housing (right part of the second photo).

David, where can i get new plastic part for motor? Really won't buy new motor just because plastics are worn and i can't screw it to mount.

Anyone know how to disassemble motor in a right way?
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 08:16 AM
Random Flier
Oxford (UK) and Mtn View CA (USA)
Joined Nov 2002
1,404 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.guzun
Today i crashed hard
Sorry to hear - it happens. Someone should do a survey on #flights a plane lives for vs say #flights experience...

Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.guzun
So i started to disassemble motor to solder it back (can't solder it now), again the quality of the plastics and metal screw-worm are BAD. Plastic is soft, and won't last for long if you need to maintain motor and motor mount, few screw in and out and plastic will be wornout and will not hold. Those screworm are soft too, i used 1.5mm hex and easily broke that hex hole.
One can't be screwed out, the one from the back of motor, where wires coming in to motor housing (right part of the second photo).
...
Sounds like its meant to be "maintenance free" (aka "not maintainable", "if it needs repair it needs replacement").
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 09:06 AM
iCharger 106B user
Lab, Slovak Republic
Joined Jun 2008
400 Posts
Quote:
Sounds like its meant to be "maintenance free" (aka "not maintainable", "if it needs repair it needs replacement").
Coz of coldjoint and ugly plastics, i'll never buy any motor from e-flite, i'd better buy TURNIGY for 20$ with the same characteristics.

Before i spen money, i'd like to hear something from e-flite
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 10:45 PM
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Joined Dec 2008
25 Posts
Motor Not Working!!

Hey Guys,

I bought an apprentice 15e online from a buyer that had it "opened" but unused. There were a couple little things that weren't described overall nice condition. But the motor is NOT working! I plugged in the battery (which is reading 12.2 I think) and then the radio. They beeped a few tones. servos worked. motor worked. For about 3 or 4 up and downs on the throttle. Then, I went ahead and took it to full throttle and after that time is started making a grinding sound (or knocking/clunking sound) and wouldn't spin freely. Some movement but erratic and certainly not spinning all the way or anywhere close.

Is there something that I could have done? What could be causing this? Is the motor shot?

Thanks for any help
Tim
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