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Old Sep 01, 2011, 05:03 PM
Champagne Supernova
FlyHighSelllow's Avatar
United States, FL, Orlando
Joined Jul 2010
2,022 Posts
Well I got shot down from HH before I could tell him how many flights the motor had probably had on it. Warranty stops when you buy it is what I was told. We went back n forth for 20 mins about how can he determine if it was a defect or normal wear and tear. Kept mentioning 8 months old and must have 80 or more flights on it. Nope had maybe a dozen or so and why did the magnets rub the interior of the can. I could not believe it. All I hear is good things about HH. They sent me this and replaced that. I get squat from HH and told them that. I will do my best not to buy anymore of their product. By the time we got done he was wanting to send me one. It took a half hr of bickering when he should of said that within 3 mins of our conversation. There are other reports about problems with this motor, cracks and binding magnets.

Turnigy Match motors. Im getting a few of them and some more orange RX's. They work just as good as HH stuff and 1/4 the price or less.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 08:31 PM
Yes, I know it's upside down.
Sydney, Australia
Joined Dec 2008
3,315 Posts
I put a Turnigy motor in, and it gives more rpm for less amps, and only cost about $15.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1147
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Last edited by Harrow; Sep 01, 2011 at 08:36 PM.
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 06:43 AM
Champagne Supernova
FlyHighSelllow's Avatar
United States, FL, Orlando
Joined Jul 2010
2,022 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harrow View Post
I put a Turnigy motor in, and it gives more rpm for less amps, and only cost about $15.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1147
Roger that. Buying a couple today to have on hand. Only bought the expensive e flite because I needed it like yesterday and had to buy from LHS.

Shame we have to do this but eh. They are way over priced and of same and like kind quality and HH didn.t want nothing to do with replacing my defective one so I'd rather get a 15-20 motor and take my chances. I have had good luck with hobby king motors.
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 08:52 AM
Gravity gets me down.
helicow's Avatar
USA, FL, Brooksville
Joined Jan 2008
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Anyone here have details of changing to a tail dragger? I saw something about turning the battery box around, but not much else. Looking for what tail wheel was used, etc.

thanks
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Harrow View Post
Hi guys,

I finally got around to fitting my replacement motor, and thought I'd post some bench stats and a review.

The new motor is slightly lighter than the original (negligible given the total weight of the plane), and is also fatter and shorter. The main reason I chose this motor was because it has a 5mm shaft, so it can hold the original prop and prop adaptor.

Firstly, the shaft needed to be reversed, as it was poking out the wrong end. This is standard procedure for an experienced modeller, but as Apprentice owners are often first-timers, here is a run down on what needs to be done.

1. Remove the circlip from it's original position, and move it to the grooved position on the end of the shaft. (This was the trickiest bit, simply because little circlips are always fiddly things.)

2. Loosen the grub screw (1.5mm hex) that locks the bell onto the other end of the shaft.

3. Push the shaft through until the circlip is now up against the back of the motor, and the shaft is now sticking out the opposite end. To do this, the motor will need to be rested on a lump of wood with a hole drilled in it to allow the shaft to come through. Note that the shaft is a press fit. You will need a hydraulic press to push the shaft through, or else do what I did, and cover the end of the shaft with a piece of hard wood, and hit it with a mallet. (Don't hit a metal shaft with a metal hammer).

4. Re-tighten the grub screw. (Not sure why it's needed, that "press fit", really is a "press fit")

Next, we come to fitting the motor. This was very simple, since the standard mount holes match up, however, because the motor is fatter, it just lightly scrapes the inside of the cowling. I fixed this by adding a single washer between the motor mount and the firewall on the two top screws. This created plenty of clearance, and ended up being a very good thing, since the additional bit of down thrust noticably reduced the annoying habit that the Apprentice has of climbing when under full throttle. I would now recommend that everyone add the extra washers, even if they are not replacing their motor.

Swapping the prop adaptor over was a no-brainer of course with both motors having a 5mm shaft. Even though this motor is a little shorter, the prop still manages to clear the cowling safely, simply because the original setup had so much clearance.

Now to the flight test.

A friend had his original motor Apprentice at the field, so we put my stock battery (3200mAh, 15C) in his plane first. We got 7050 rpm using 24 amps. We then put the same battery in my Apprentice. We got 7450 rpm, using 22.5 amps. Nice! Many of you might also be interested that when he put his Turnigy 3600mAh (25C?) battery in his stock Apprentice, we measured 7800 rpm. (Hmm, did not think of putting the bigger battery on my new motor.)

In flight the new motor was great, and really just felt like the old one, excepting that I no longer had that tendancy to climb under full throttle, thanks to the washers I added. If any of you are worried that the lighter motor at the front might cause CG problems, then forget it, there was no difference in how the plane handled. If all you are after is a like-for-like replacement, then this one comes highly recommended!

That motor is listed at $26.00 now.
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Last edited by itsme2; Sep 02, 2011 at 01:58 PM.
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by helicow View Post
Anyone here have details of changing to a tail dragger? I saw something about turning the battery box around, but not much else. Looking for what tail wheel was used, etc.

thanks
Just curious - what am I missing? Why would you want to do that? Tricycle gear is so much easier to land, take off and handle on the ground.
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 02:43 PM
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I suspect my Apprentice ESC may be bad. Is there any way to do tests on the ESC to determine if it is good or bad?

I have a problem with my ESC or motor, the motor won't power up all the way and surges up and down when I give it full throttle. Batteries are good and prop shaft adapter on the motor is tight.

Does the motor just plug into the ESC or is it hard wired, can't see under the ESC shrink wrap. Would like to check the plug connections if it's plugged, do I just cut the shrink wrap to get to the plugs (if it's plugged)?

Maybe I would be better off buying a new PNP Apprentice rather than buying a motor and ESC for $115+ shipping to get it running right again? The PNP Apprentice is $229 including shipping. If I bought the PNP I would have lots of spare parts.

Any ideas?
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 04:35 PM
Gravity gets me down.
helicow's Avatar
USA, FL, Brooksville
Joined Jan 2008
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Originally Posted by bobly View Post
Just curious - what am I missing? Why would you want to do that? Tricycle gear is so much easier to land, take off and handle on the ground.
Not necessarily so on grass.

I also assume it can be revered again if it is not what I like.
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by helicow View Post
Not necessarily so on grass.

I also assume it can be revered again if it is not what I like.
Maybe it's just likes or dislikes, but I almost always fly off grass and that's where I see the difference for me anyway. Our club field is grass, but I fly on Saturday mornings with some guys at a college parking lot where we have pavement. I'd rather have 3 wheels either place.
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 10:16 PM
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Tallahassee, FL
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Some people just like tail draggers.
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 10:24 PM
FPV = Fun Powered Vehicle
LokeyFPV's Avatar
United States, CO, Denver
Joined Apr 2011
168 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by itsme2 View Post
Does the motor just plug into the ESC or is it hard wired, can't see under the ESC shrink wrap. Would like to check the plug connections if it's plugged, do I just cut the shrink wrap to get to the plugs (if it's plugged)?
Don't cut the shrink wrap. There are connectors between the motor and ESC. You will need to pull the ESC off of the foam so you can pull it through the fuselage toward the firewall to be able to disconnect the motor from the ESC.

Cheers
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 07:20 PM
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Joined Aug 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobly View Post
Maybe it's just likes or dislikes, but I almost always fly off grass and that's where I see the difference for me anyway. Our club field is grass, but I fly on Saturday mornings with some guys at a college parking lot where we have pavement. I'd rather have 3 wheels either place.
Yeah, other than personal preference, a tail dragger will do better on grass than a trike. As a trike, my Apprentice invariably tipped up on its nose when landing in grass (granted, the grass was thick, and probably too long, the field at my local park) as a tail dragger, it didn't do that. But I prefer it as a trike, and just fly it off pavement.

Yes, you just reverse the battery tray/landing gear box. This is the thread I followed when doing mine
(though I skipped the tail wheel part and just let the plastic tail protector drag in the grass):
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=989719

But I didn't really like it, and when I found a paved place to fly, I got another fuselage to use as the stock trike setup, put my electronics in it, and just kept the tail dragger fuselage as a spare.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsme2 View Post
I suspect my Apprentice ESC may be bad. Is there any way to do tests on the ESC to determine if it is good or bad?

I have a problem with my ESC or motor, the motor won't power up all the way and surges up and down when I give it full throttle. Batteries are good and prop shaft adapter on the motor is tight.

Does the motor just plug into the ESC or is it hard wired, can't see under the ESC shrink wrap. Would like to check the plug connections if it's plugged, do I just cut the shrink wrap to get to the plugs (if it's plugged)?

Maybe I would be better off buying a new PNP Apprentice rather than buying a motor and ESC for $115+ shipping to get it running right again? The PNP Apprentice is $229 including shipping. If I bought the PNP I would have lots of spare parts.

Any ideas?
The only way I know of to test an ESC is to put a different motor on it. I had an ESC go bad and thought it was the motor bearings; but when I put a new motor on that ESC, the same symptoms were there (a loud screeching sound from the motor). When I put either of those motors on a different ESC, they were quiet as could be.

Like LokeyFPV said, you'll need to free the ESC from the caulk, unplug it from the Receiver, and then remove the cowling, motor, and motor mount, and pull the ESC out through the front of the plane. Once out, you'll see the where it is plugged into the motor wires.

I wouldn't buy a PnP Apprentice just to get a new ESC, even though you would, as you say, have lots of spare parts. You might get one of those older crap motors with the plastic end-bell. Just buy a bigger, better ESC (like an Eflite 40 Amp Pro SBEC, or Hacker 55amp Pro, or other quality ESC) and then when you want to upgrade your motor (everybody does eventually want to upgrade! ) you'll have an ESC that can handle the bigger motor.
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 01:17 AM
Yes, I know it's upside down.
Sydney, Australia
Joined Dec 2008
3,315 Posts
Or for a true bargain, grab a Turnigy Plush 40A ESC from HobbyKing. These perform very well, and will be more than ample for the Apprentice as we all use them on our 450 helis that drain a battery in 6 minutes.
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 08:14 AM
Gravity gets me down.
helicow's Avatar
USA, FL, Brooksville
Joined Jan 2008
1,403 Posts
Thanks for the link sandhog. Wish I had a paved runway, but...so willing to give this a try.
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